| No, this is not intended as double entendre!|
My wife is small, about 5' 4". The normal Raleigh cranks are too large for her. I.e. if the seat is adjusted so she can reach the pedal at the bottom, her leg is doubled up when it's at the top. Not good for comfortable riding! So I'm considering replacing the cranks on a bike with a smaller set. Anyone with any experience on this? Are cottered spindles all the same diameter? Know a good source for parts like this?
| David, I believe one of the smaller cranksets from the Raleigh Colt would work. I've seen this smaller crankset on a short-frame men's '74 Sports, incedentally.|
| P.S.: Try Gordon Bradbury - email@example.com . He's out 'till the 29th, although I think he has one Colt in his pile.|
| Not sure if what these folks carry are suitable to british bikes, but they have all different length crank arms... and one set actually has three different mounting holes for "variable" lenght cranks.|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
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| Well I need to get replacement rims for my DL1 and I did a spoke count just to be safe and apparently my Rims are a 40 hole in back and a 36 in front. I counted them up a bunch of times and got these count each time. My year is a 1978, the hub date is 1-78 and it's an S-A AW. THe thing is I thought all the AWs went over to 36 hole long before 78. Did DL1s get special 40 hole AWs even in the late 70s? The front hub appears to be a run of the mill 36 spoke with 36 hole rim.|
| Could it have come from the factory this way? Perhaps this bike was produced during the changeover to 36/36 after the 32 fronts were gone but before they ran out of 40 rears. ???|
| Every Dl-1 I've seen has a 40 spoke rear wheel, the AW hub is the same as a Sports hub eccept for the 40 holes drilled and fewer teeth on the sprocket which makes for higher gearing - hills are no fun, but you can really get going on flat ground or a down hill! CAUTION - DL-1's HAVE WEAK BRAKES! |
| Welcome to the club of 36/40. |
Mine has the original '79 AG Dynothree in back, 40 hole. I had put a guess to it that it was because of the Dynothree, but it appears I was wrong (I'm not much up-to-date on DL-1 knowledge, ask me about the Sports!).
Heh - funny that Raleigh put together such a combination...High-geared bike with no brakes.
Speaking of small sprockets, I've been trying to find the smallest variant available for my Twenty - it is geared much too low for me - always find myself bouncing the pedals in both 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Oddly enough, the rear rim bottoms out on the dropouts, and the chain is a bit loose - possibly it had been geared much lower at one time?
| Yep, my 1978 DL-1 came with 36/40, too. Honest. |
| Thanks for the help. The reason for all this is that I'm getting some replacement rims for the bike and I was a little weirded out by the spoke count (for some reason I expected either a 36-36 or a 32-40). |
The reason for the replacement is that I get a nasty lurching effect from the front brakes. Near as I can tell, this is due to the fact that the rim is not perfectly round anymore and the brakes are hitting flatspots and missing lowspots causing a lurching grip and miss pattern. The back isn't so bad but I figure it's better to have two matching new rims than a clean new one and an aged one.
| My own '79 Rudge does that too - it is probably just a simple matter of the wheel being out of round. Have a reputable local shop true the wheel for you, and it should solve the problem.|
Mind you, it's the X axis of the rim (viewed from the front) that matters with rod brakes, not the Y.
Might also be difficult to get "new" rims from most shops - you'll probably have to get an NOS pair of Westwoods online.
| Well the thing is, I had the wheel trued and it still did not solve the problem and the lurching continued. Now it wasn't quite as bad but when I talked to the guy in the shop he said that the rim had "flat spots in it". I was guessing he meant the Y axis you spoke of was not perfectly round after 27 years. I figured to fix it I would need a replacement set of rims to remedy the flat spots. Neither wheel is currently perfectly true because I ride it often, but for some reason only the front one does the lurching. Any ideas on this would be most helpful as my only idea was that the Y axis was out of round. Has anyone else had these problems?|
| I think you mean the X axis.|
Flat spots, maybe (then again, he might be a lousy wheelbuilder!) You have to take everything into account.
Here's a test to run - raise one of the wheels off the ground (or if you have a few clean rags and have a second pair of hands to help, flip the bike over - don't scratch the rear fender doing it), and spin one of the wheels 'round slowly. Focus on the rim as it goes by the brake pads, and check if the wheel has any visible flat spots. Obviously, the Sturmey-Archer stamping on these rims always create a flat spot, and all of the S/A rims will have this. Also check to see that the wheel is in fact, true, and not bobbing up and down. If the wheel is true and flat spots are present, you should see a bobbing in the center of the rim, but not on the edge.
Let us know what you find after your observations of it.
| Well the wheel does bob at the edges as well as the center. The wheel also has a slight wobble left to right when you look from the seat. But I'm not sure what the trouble is. I've sent the wheel for truing before and the shop told me that it was flat spots. I'm not sure what it is. The rear wheel has a slight bob as well but doesn't have the lurching problem.|
Basically what happens is when I apply the front brake it seems to grab some parts of the wheel better than others. When this happens the bike lurches forward. What also happens is I can feel a sort of "kick back" in the brake handle at regular intervals when the lurching occurs. Neither wheel is perfectly true but the front one does this and the back doesn't. Both brakes work but the lurching is a pain and isn't very comforting on the hills. I know these brakes aren't very powerful to begin with but I do want them to be smooth.
| I know the symptoms, no need to elaborate any further.|
With the information you've given me so far, it simply sounds like the wheel is simply not trued correctly. Either that or someone did a good number on it jumping a few curbs.
Rod brakes do a good job of getting wheels out of round easily - make sure a professional does the job the next time around, and also see to it that he does it right, tensioning and all.
You might want to read up on Sheldon Brown's manual here:
| Thanks for the help. It is possible it was a curb jumper too. I bought the bike from a guy who lived in the city and he may have just hit too many bumps. I'll try for a good truing before I replace them.|
| Go for the pro truing - it is your best bet. Try to find a family owned and operated shop that services the higher end bikes. Usually your best bet for quality work. |
Shops that feature a half-dozen droids on the floor wearing polo shirts (printed with the company name, of course), are generally high-output shops, made to sell bikes - not repair them. Avoid these places as a general rule. I only visit them when they have a sale on high-quality 26 1-3/8" (E.A.3) tires.
| Has anyone come up with a source for Raleigh decals? I have been working on a 64 DL-1 that had been partially repainted, and needs considerable touching up. Also, anyone have a good set of black fenders, the elliptical (?)ones, white tail, or even just a reflector to fit this fender? The peaked fender reflector will not work. Also, anyone have a decent BB spindle? Mine is pitted and I would really rather not use it. Sorry, lotsa stuff... Any help appreciated.|
| What type of Raleigh decal? I know www.mostlymusclebikes.com has had various late-70's Raleigh block-letter decals, and a few Rampar decals too.|
Nick at H Lloyds Cycles should have the majority of Raleigh decals from the '40s to the mid/late '60s. Only problem is that every decal on his site is described, not photographed, and he refuses to open any website or photo that you may send to him. It is sink or swim, but if you know the various Raleigh decals over the years, you should be able to find what you want from him. Website is:
| Anyone know where Raleigh's design patents went after they disolved DL-1 and Sports production IN THE 1980'S. I would think An Asian or Indian firm would have picked up production and that the parts they produce would be usable as replacements for a Raleigh when the real thing can't be found.|
| They picked them up lone before 1980---the british set up the cycle manufacturing in India.The DL-1 or standard british roadster is the most copyed bicycle in the world---sam|
| Any comments on the Eastman Rod brake 3 speeds sold by Yellowjersey? Been thinking of getting one as a more reliable roaster to use at school (as compared to my 78 DL1 which is showing its age mechanically).|
| Was discussed here not more then a week ago - take a look here:|
Count me in as a non-believer in the knockoff DL-1s.
| The indian clones (Eastmen) only good part is price--they run about $80 to $100 in Mexico---pay yellowjersey prices--- you can get a true Raleigh for the same.The late 70s early 80s don't bring the big bucks but still have a lot of British quality--even if the chrome on "old" bikes is better.---sam|
| And if you know where to look, you can also get a decent or fixer-upper DL-1 for $100, sometimes even as cheap as $75. You have to know where to look.|
P.S.: Have always wondered what the benifits are with a cable-operated hub drum brake vs the stock front rod brakes...
| One of the few marked improvements made in modern roadsters has to be the hub brakes. I've got 4 of the older Sturmey AB type hubs laced up...one is NOS and even it can't stop well. As we know all too well...stopping on a rodbrake bike in the rain requires gumption, prayers, incantations and finally the Flintstones approach to braking.|
I rode a Pashley a few weeks ago with the late 90's generation of SA hubs and it was fabulous...even a bit grabby. You could ride with just the front brake, as it should be.
| Has anyone experimented using the shell of an older Sturmey drum hub with the innards from one of the new models? Are they compatible? If so, what are the results of this combination?|