| I got the old FW open and, of course, it has the usual rusty mud coating. (I haven't worked on a four speed hub before) One of the low gear pawls had a broken spring and I'd like to replace them all. However, the low gear pawl pins don't fall right out like they do in an AW. The SA instructions mention "riveting" them into the planet cage but nothing about removing them. They seem to have been struck with a punch at the left end, probably spreading them out a little ("riveting?") so they don't fall out. Should I simply drive them out from the right hand end, with the planet cage supported so it doesn't distort? Or what? Thanks.|
| I am interested in purchasing a modern Indian built rod brake bicycle to use at WWII reenactments. I heard that some of them that are imported to the US are amazing close to the ones found o US and RAF Army Air Forces bases during WWII. I have several requests..please respond with lots of opinions. How close are these in features and looks to the WWII bikes? Could some of you please describe in detail all of the features of the average English bike from the early 40's? Does any one imported Indian bike come close? How do they ride? Please post all answers. Is there a site I can do to toview an actual WWII English bicycle? Were they usually blackened in or was there chrome on them?|
| For Sale: 1999 Forever(China), rod brake copy of 1936 Raleigh, considered better build quality than Indian mfg. $150 plus you pay shipping. Thanks for looking! Dark green with great graphics, 3 speed derailleur. low miles never left outdoors! You'll be happy with this machine!|
| Ted,there is a war bicycles group on Yahoo groups.|
The clone bikes from India and China are not as high quality.For reenactments--they should work just fine--you could toss them around and treat them like they are wortless!---sam
| This is all I find these days.|
ALL OF THE SALES ARE CLEANED OUT, I NEVER FIND VINTAGE BIKES AT THE ESTATE SALES EITHER!
Quote"The tubing,spokes,handle-bars,saddles,hubs,and coaster brakes made in the United States(if you get the best)are fully equal,if not superior,to similar parts made abroad,but we have nothing in this country to compair with the celebrated English Brampton Roller Chains,Brampton Pedals,Double-Flanged Sprockets,Vulcanite Grips,and Ribbed Front Fork." Mead Cycle Catalog--1911
Look for these wonderful ribbed forks like the ones on Sheldons Mead Roadester.-----sam
| Since I had the DL1's rear wheel off for truing, I thought I'd swap FW innards into its AW shell. The FW shell does not have flats on the left hand side and is not built into a wheel. I can't get it fastened so I can drive off the right hand end. Should I make wooden circular jaws to put in my vise? Any suggestions? |
| Do a search on the internet for:|
"Tony Hadlnds Website"
go to the part on repairing older Sturmey- Archer hubs.
Read the sections on the A.W. and the F.W.
keep us posted
| That was: "Tony Hadlands website"|
| The S-A material, like Tony Hadland's site, assume you've got the hub in a wheel. I need to fix an uninstalled hub in a vise somehow, so I can get the RH ball cup unscrewed. I'm afraid I'll squash the shell if I tighten it in the vise with regular flat jaws. |
| Would it be easer to lace it into an old wheel--wouldn't have to be a good wheel or even a great lace job. Seems easer than trying to make something---sam |
| Put the bare hub on the wooded bench and hold it still while you take a punch and a ball peen hammer and you go...|
WHACK! WHACK! WHACK! WHILE WEARING GOGGLES AND IT'LL COME LOOSE.
IT MAY BE LIKE: WHACK! WHACK! AND YOU KEEP WHACKING TILL IT COMES LOOSE.
NEVER HEARD OF MAKING WOODEN JAWS.
| Chris, not sure if you've worked on late '70s Sturmey hubs before, but they revised (revised, my foot!) the boxed whack-em indentations sometime in the late '60s, in favor of a rounded type used with a special C spanner. |
Trying to whack out the rounded type is nearly impossible - your chisel constantly slips out with every blow of the hammer.
Oddly enough, it's a very similar phenominon as to the rounded pawls used in the Sturmey SW hub, not that the two problems are related.
| I'm not sure this is what your on about - but having cut the spokes out before taking apart the hub myself I've found that a 'wooden circular jaws' can be made by getting a plank of wood and hammering through a circle of nails to correspond to each spoke hole.|
| I am in need of a pair of grey ribbed finger grips for a 1954 Raleigh i am cleaning up. Any leads appreciated. Good used would be fine but would take NOS Genuine Raleigh parts only please. Thanks |