| I would appreciate help from anyone. I just purchased (yesterday) a 1957 Raleigh Sports with a front Dyno hub. It only seems to be missing the front lamp, a pump and a rear rack (luggage carrier). Any idea on where to find these items used or NOS?|
I am considering fully restoring this bike. I am unsure of what type paint was used and where to find decals for this great bike.
I look forward to hearing from anyone with info or a similar bike.
| Nice find! As to re-painting... unless the original paint is really rough, better to do a meticulous cleanup. "It's only ORIGINAL once!"|
Acceptable frame pumps are available here. As to the rear rack, an acceptable replacement would be the Pletscher which you can still find on Ebay from time-to-time.
Front headlights... I believe they may have a reasonable replacement here... though I'm not to sure as to comaptibility with the Dynohub. If not... keep an eye on Ebay once again.
Best of luck! Sounds like a real winner!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Great find. I own a 1958 Sport that a man who posts to this forum offered for sale about five years ago.Mine is also equipped with dyno hub with headlight mounted on the heron bracket and taillight on the rear stay.I agree with Larry and avoid a repaint if possible. Although I have considered repainting the rear fender on mine its pretty badly scratched up, but the color of mine is black,probably the easiest Raleigh color out there to match if you have to paint.As to finding a head and taillight.They show up on ebay pretty often. Search under Bike Lights. Might be some out there now.Good luck with your bike. Great find. Ed|
| It's your bike, but I agree with the Boneman. Original paint is worth preserving, even if it's a little worse for wear. Whenever I see a repainted bike, I assume it was assembled from parts. I like the patina of age.|
|Hmmm - It's about the condition if it's in good condition - don't restore - conserve. But if the metal is rusting .... and you're up to stripping & rebuilding ... then your not going to be able to get to the steel without removing the paint. Don't under-take it lightly. My general advice is to concern yourself with the function of the bike rather than the appearance. brakes, gears, bearings, spokes. Unless it's been left outside for a couple of years that do it - For me in the end its about taking it for a ride - The beauty of the bike in flight .... If you can get it going let others concern themselves with what it looks like - just ride it.|
| I find that most of the work involved in restoring a bike is the paint. Amount of work depends on paint condition but the method I use is always the same and its almost always an improvement. |
Remove all components, clean frame, spot paint with fine brush (unless painted in primary or secondary colors a perfect match is almost impossible), rub down with rubbing compound (there are different grades and use caution here), many times spot paint and selective rubout again, apply paste wax.
| Brian . I have a front dyno light & rack e mail me if you are intrested .|
| Hi all|
I just picked up (literally) a mens black 3-speed Sturmey Archer, dual handbrake JAMES bicycle made in England (as says the ornate metal headbadge). The chainguard has an emblem (decal) that has wings that says JAMES in it, also. Bike is pretty dirty, so I'll have to clean the rear hub to see the date. I'm guessing lower end Raleigh type (same rear reflector)with a cushion seat. No rust on the rims even, just cobwebs and dust. It should clean up very nicely. Anyway.....is this a common lower end model, or a scarcity here on Long Island in NY?
| The good rims may indicate an earler bike--we hope so.Find the age and go from their.The James was at onetime a great bicycle---sam|
| Will be interested to know what year James you have, etc.|
Got my James in 1955 (1954 hub) and still ride it!! Looking for a new reflector for the Miller Light, and a proper seat... wonder what you have for a saddle on yours?
Best I can tell: Harry James built his first bicycle about 1880, founded James Cycle Co. 1897, retired in about a year and died in 1905. Frank Kimberly was hired in 1902 designed the first James Motorcycle, and retired about 1955.James bicycles shared a plant with the Hercules Bicycle Co.and was taken over by them in the 1960's, perhaps a bit before or after the James Co. failed in 1966. The James name came to an end, and Hercules was taken over by Raleigh in the 1970's. Hope this helps.
| Just wondering if anyone can tell me more about a Raleigh Sports I picked up for $20 cdn at a flea market, in mint condition. It's gold with a white seat, grips and pedals -the pedals have a pink cat's eye reflector - and twist grip shifting. It has a front light and a hockey stick style chain guard, that flares towards the front. The rear hub says 69, but I can't see anything like it in any of the brochures for that time period.|
| Sounds like one of the '67-72 all-gold edition Sports models. Oddly enough, I don't think they were listed in the catelouges. |
Below is a photo of my own '71 all-gold Sports. Yours, I presume, is nearly identical (save for the pedals and saddle).
The pedals on yours are probably replacements. Original pedals were Raleigh rubber blocks, I believe, as shown in the photo.
The white saddle, and white grips (with 3 speed twist-grip shifter) are original equipment. I believe the all-gold versions always featured the twist-grip. I, personally, prefer the B72 over the white matress saddles.
| That's it! Thanks for the very quick help - it's my back up bike (my first is a rod-braked single speed Chinese Flying Pigeon) and I've been wondering what the Raleigh's story is for a while now. I hate the saddle on it, but only because the bolts are stripped and it tilts as I ride, so once that's replaced, it'll probably become bike #1.|
thanks again, mike
| Hello Mike,|
Most well-stocked bike shops should have aftermarket double and quad-rail seat/stem binders in stock.
Got a pic of it?
| About those white pedals....they may be original. I remember my mom's all gold Sports circa 1971 came with them. Also, I have a '58 Triumph ladies model that has the white pedals. They're not for every bike, but I kind of like them.|
-Bryan in CT
| You might be right there, Bryan - just checked against this one photo from a '69 AMF ad:|
Those are the despicable plastic-bushing oval Raleigh pedals - never realised they came in white. I have seen the black variant with reflectors though.
From Mike's description, I still suspect that his pedals were changed at one time - Cateye didn't come around until the '80s, and Raleigh's pedal reflectors were generally stamped Union (unless they were pre-72 rebuildable rubber blocks from Nottingham).
P.S.: What moron would put a white saddle, white pedals, whitewalls, white headlight switch and white saddlebag on a gold men's bike? Looks like it just came from a wedding, for god's sake!
Would love to have a pair of those whitewalls though...
Anyone noticed that this bike doesn't have the twist grip? Neither does it appear to have a visibile trigger - the shifter cable simply dissapears behind the bar.
| What specifically made the older pedals rebuildable? I have a Raleigh Twenty with very wide pedals (over 4") whose shafts have nuts on the inboard ends. All of my post-1972 Raleighs have the nuts replaced with swaged rivet heads. And the newer pedals are disturbingly narrower .... under 4". They all are embossed with the heron crest.|
Dick in FL where it rains every day.
| The pre-73 pedals were made by Raleigh at Nottingham - if you take the nuts off the pedal ends, you will find that the rubber blocks can be removed after removing the retaining rods.|
The pedals made after '73 are copies, made by Union for Raleigh, and, of course, these are not rebuildable. Post-'75 examples feature larger reflectors then the '73-'74s.
By the way - the embossing is not of the Heron's Crest, it is Sir Walter Raleigh.
(Please excuse any spelling mistakes - I'm on my spare computer, which so happens to have the keyboard in a very cumbersome place in relation to the screen.)
| Does anyone have or know of a supply of pre Union supplied Nottingham factory pedals|
| Hi all. I'm a newbie with a query. I have a Suntour 3sp hub that seems to be a S-A AW copy (It works with a S-A indicator chain, takes an S-A right-hand nut, and has square-edged (not rounded) indents to assist removal of the internals from hub). The hub rattles atrociously in second gear (only), sounding like a loose alloy mudguard/fender. I pulled it apart, and the crucifix is very slightly worn, but pawls, gears etc all seem fine. Any ideas, as it's an embarrassment to ride?!|
| I have not seen a Suntour hub like that. take a picture. I thought I knew them all. Ed|
| This should answer your question, Larry, as to the other stock of that fellow in Philly:|
Take particular note to the TCW hub on the boys Robin Hood Colt!
| Wow... An interesting array of NOS machines. Where on earth did this feller dig 'em up I have to wonder.|
Aside from the small frame size.... VERY tempting.
Now... off to my little corner repeating over and over again... "Excersize RESTRAINT"
Thanks Kurt. Certainly a nice collection of "in the box" raleighs.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I'd like to stumble upon a stash of NOS Raleighs someday myself too. (Unfortunatly, only one Raleigh shop of the old-guard still exists here in Miami - and it's owned by a Schwinn collector!)|
"Excersize restraint...just buy the Coffee Sports!"
Hehehe - tell you the truth, I'd probably skip it simply because of the darn S3C hub. Note the very interesting rear seat stay bridge on the Coffee Sports - made to accomodate a Pletcher rack, it appears, and sans proper mounting for a rear brake due to the S3C hub.
P.S.: The S3C is for musclebikes!
| Well, I bought the green Triumph. Knowing that I'll never get that kinda coin back out of it. The rear wheel will get removed and I'll slip an F.M. in the new rear wheel.|
Never did like any kind of coaster brake.
The Sports was worth it. The Triumph, I'm not sure.
If the Sports was yellow I'd have jumped on it. Yellow being the most rare and sought after color for a Raleigh Sports.
Then Bronze green.
Too bad they are not older and with enclosed chainguards.
| That Blue color (the LTD I think it is) is really first rate. I actually haven't seen too many in that color, myself.|