| I'm thinking of ordering a batch of 36-hole 28" Westwood-pattern rims in stainless steel from the Netherlands. It looks like the cost [to me] would be about $30 apiece delivered. I'd like to see if there's some interest in buying a few of these (so I could get rid of the ones I don't want!) Their cost would be about $30 plus shipping. ($35 to $40 delivered, I'd guess. Pick up in person in Boston) Please email me if interested: beandk at comcast dot net. |
| Hi: I had a rear flat on my 3 speed sturmey archer geared raleigh and while reassembling, I have lost a gear or the bike will not stay in higher gear and switches to low. How can I adjust? Thanks|
| Control cable/indicator chain is too tight. The tension is adjusted at the end of the cable where it screws onto the indicator chain at the hub. (Make sure your drive chain is adjusted properly before doing anything with the controls) Rule-of-thumb: the cable should be completely loose in high and the chain should be just slightly less than fully pulled out in low. Check "Hub gear indicator adjustment" at http://www.toehead.demon.co.uk/adj.htm for more detail than you need. Remember; it's an AW you're adjusting, not any of the others.|
| I am looking for a Dynohub setup for my '52 Sports. I need the hub (better yet if on a wheel); the lights, the whole 9 yards. I'd like something of the period if possible. I would also consider a dynamo setup if the lights are period correct. Thanks.|
| Hi there, the AW on my '52 Sports is acting up. While pedaling in low gear it keeps slipping (smoothly) into 2nd. I have tried adjusting the linkage tension in very small increments and it does improve but then happens again. I think maybe I just need to find that sweet spot where the tension is perfect but might this be an indication of a problem? Also, can I change the metal "lubricator" cap for a plastic one? Is the hole/threading the same? thanks|
| You can use the plastic cap. I'm sure you can get the adjustment right. I normally just adjust it so there's the slightest bit of play left in the indicator when it's in low. The indicators themselves often seem to be "wrong;" the flat on the end does not match the end of the axle in the middle gear.|
| I've had this happen in S5 and FW hubs. Try tightening the adjuster barrel by half a turn or more until the auto-upshift no longer occurs.|
| One possibility: If you've recently had that wheel off, the indicator might have turned a few rotations and loosened up. I'd try disengaging it from the gear cable, tightening it down (but not too tight), re-attaching the gear cable and trying the shifting again. |
Another possibility: Your gear cable is hanging up somewhere along the line. Try a squirt of lubricant in the housing.
Yet another possibility: The trigger itself is slipping from first to second gear. Again, try lubrication.
| As for the plastic lubricator, beware! There are two variants out there, and both are of different sizes.|
The clear ones as shown on the Oldroads website were used up 'till mid-1972, and I believe these will fit onto hubs drilled for metal lubricators.
In '73, when Sturmey came out with their cosmetic "band" design on the outer shell, they also came out with a black plastic lubricator, slightly larger in diameter (the hubs were also revised with a larger hex-shaped opening to fit these caps), and less prone to disentigrating when flipped open to service the hub. I doubt if this type will fit onto an older hub.
| I shot a new series of photos this afternoon of the 1979 Rudge Roadster. Very large pictures they are, mind you. Copy/paste the web links into your browser:|
Soon as I have a bit of extra time (and have the gear cable installed on my Coffee '75), I will take some more photos of the rest of my collection.
By the way...
On the subject of DL-1s, has anyone ever seen a Raleigh-badged DL-1 in Coffee? I have a lead on a pair of NOS Raleigh DL-1 fenders in Coffee (I have already seen a photo of the rear fender, and there's no mistaking the late-60s/70's DL-1 fender pattern), and I'm curious if anyone has actually seen one of these Coffee machines before. If not, I might get ahold of a frameset and paint one up to go with the fenders.
| That roadster is breathtaking. Thank you for sharing the photos. Assuming you are in US was that a recent "import"? I thought the chaincases were not originally provided on US imports. I have a 22" framed model from '79 and I am considering buying a chaincase from "Cycles of Yesteryear". Now that I see how sweet it looks I am just about convinced.|
| It most certainly is an 'import', however, I believe the bike has spent most of its life here in South Florida. |
The model was actually an export model, it's ultimate destination, Curacao, according to the CTC (Curacao Trading Corp.) decal upon the rear fender. Whether it ever got there, I do not know.
The chaincase and the white tail are two particular export features on it that had been already phased out for the U.S. market before this bike was produced - the chaincases back in the '50s and the rear-fender tail by mid-'78, respectively.
I bought it in May from a fellow in Ft. Ladurdale who purchased the bike from a neighbor, who owned it for a good many years. As for the missing part of this cycle's story between Nottingham, Curacao and the porch of a South Florida bungalo, we may never know.
I've told myself I will research each tangle of this tale to see what becomes of it, but I have yet to do it.
You might want to double-check on those Cycles Of Yeseryear cases - I'm not sure they are original Raleigh cases. The Sports-type chaincase, in particular, appears to have a different rear elbow then original Raleigh cases that I've seen.
Off topic, for all anxious forum members:
My '51 Sports "C" Tourist arrived today. She's a beaut, and the paint looks like it'll polish up to an sparkling high gloss. I'll have pictures soon (and parts to buy!), keep your eyes on the forum for updates.
All the best,
| A very "stately" looking machine. Very nice man. I'm presuming, given your location and the flatness thereof, it's geared as manufactured? I had to put a slightly larger sprocket on mine in order to make the elevation changes here a bit more "managable".|
Of course... mine is Black. That colour makes for a very rich looking machine.
Larry "Boneman" Bone