| I would like to have someone refurbish my mother's Schwinn bicycle which she acquired sometime in the 1930's or 1940's. Does anyone know of someone who does this? I live in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.|
| Find out when the next vintage or classic bike show is near you. Go and ask folks displaying bikes if they will do this sort of work for you. An alternative is to find a commercial restorer which will probably be more expensive. In either case, it would be better if you know exactly what you want done. For an example, just to completely disassemble, clean, polish, assemble and adjust an english 3-speed takes me about 20 hrs. My local bike shop charges about $50/hr for service. And this doesn't include parts! |
| We've benn to Lancaster county, PA two dozen times even though we live south of Boston, MA. You are in luck. There is a wonderful bicycle shop in Hinklestown next to Ephrata. It's Martin's Shop, they have a wonderful display of historic machines and I'm certain they can comply with restoration of your mother's Schwinn. I've been there many times when in Pennsylvania. paul|
| General wear and storage questions:|
1. I've been riding old bikes for quite a long time now and have always assumed 3 in 1 Oil to be the most reliable and versatile stuff to use. Does anyone have any info on the long term effects of using 3 in 1 on SA AW hubs as opposed to motor oil?
2. Does anyone else here ride in bluejeans often? If so what are the long term effects on Brooks saddles? I've found a couple wear spots developing on mine where the pocket stitching on the jeans rubs.
3. When I leave for school I will have 1 bike at home that will sit for a few months, any suggestions on leaving it to store in a garage? My usual practice is to just put it in a corner under an old bed sheet or soft tarp. Anyone have anything better?
| 3-in-1 is widely believed to dry up and get gummy, though its manufacturer denies that it has any vegetable oil in it. I generally use 10W-40 motor oil, but I think SAE 20 (non-multigrade non-detergent) would be better. (I think "official" Raleigh oil is SAE 20.) |
As for saddle wear, if you ride your bike the saddle will wear! Use Proofide on it and avoid pants with scratchy parts, I guess.
For storage, I think your tires will be happier if you reduce their pressure a bit and get the bike's weight off them.
| Personally, I use Singer sewing machine oil in my hubs. |
I've heard that the Singer oil evaporates too quickly however, unlike the S/A oil. I simply re-fill them every few months or so.
I also go quite sparingly on the oil in my SA hubs - I ride quite dry most folks would say. Sturmey reccomends that the hub be oil until the internal parts essentially run in an oil-bath inside the hub shell. I, personally have had nothing but trouble when doing this - the oil ultimately gets sloshed into the hub bearing grease after a few revolutions (or if you put the bike on it's stand), and the oil/grease combo is sufficent to gum the indicator until it won't return to third gear without a half-dozen good swift clicks of the trigger.
Once this happens, it's time to open the darn thing up and clean every part, then re-assemble. God forbid if you oil it a tad too much again!
I've yet to find a grease that doesn't cause this trouble, including the white S/A stuff from factory. My usual shop grease is a good 'ol can of Ford automotive grease, and I use it on any S/A hub which I've rebuilt.
| 1. I used to use Singer Sewing Machine oil as well, but I had trouble finding it this past spring. After consulting many sage enthusiasts on this site I realized that for most of the lifespan of these cycles they have been utilized as general transportation by ordinary folks. These ordinary folks have often used ordinary motor oil. Thats what I switched to this spring. We'll see how it holds up!|
2. As to wearing bluejeans on my bike, I again resort to my reasoning about ordinary folks. I ride in normal everyday clothes. I've never had a problem with abnormal wear on my Brooks saddles. I do have one pair of silky type addidas warm up pants that have become abraded by the leather seat.
3. In addition to David's comments about the tires, it shouldn't hurt to lightly oil exposed metal parts. I'm too lazy to do this so I would probably just use the tarp you mentioned.
Just my two cents.
--Bryan in CT
| 1. I use a quality multigrade motor oil but have used 3 in 1, there has been much debate here previously about oil for hubs, try looking back to see. General concensus is no to WD40, maybe to 3 in 1 and yes to a quality oil. I say some oil is better than none but steer away from spray lubrication.|
2. I live in jeans and ride often in them but do long distance in properly fitted and padded lycra - there I've said the L word!
3. If you can hang the bike up that helps or provided you aren't subject to huge temperature changes, over inflate the tyres when you lay it up and cover it up like a baby!
Matthew - adding my twopennyworth
| Thanks to everyone for their ideas. I popped some Havoline SAE 30 in today (not 10w just straight SAE 30). Is there a fatal difference between the 20 and the 30? I heard someone here mention that SAE 20 was the grade used by official SA oil. I don't have any 20 around but plenty of 30 here. I put a few drops in and it seemed to make a difference, though I have yet to do any extended road tests. I'll keep you posted on it, though at first try it does seem to do a little better than 3 in 1 on the internal hub. I do believe I will continue to use 3 in 1 on the external indicator chain work as well as on the fiber washers and braking externals.|
| The big problem with heavy oils is that they get very thick when cold. Shifting can be difficult and the freewheel pawls may not work. |
| The main requirement for a hub oil is film strength and separation of moving components (balls, races, and pawls), with heat removal being far less important. The usual minimum spec for dynamic viscosity in ball bearing applications is 13 centistokes. Between 0 and 30 degrees C, even an ISO viscosity grade 15 oil (equivalent to the lower end of 0W in an SAE motor oil) will achieve this. I've noticed that SA oil tends to gum up at lower temperatures (down to -10C) and the shifting is less precise and noisier. So when my SA oil finally ran out, I bought a quart of Mobil Jet II synthetic turbine oil ($13). To this I added a small amount of 75W-90 Mobil I rear axle lube (with EP additive to protect the pawls). The combined oil has an ISO VG of around 50 at 40C (equal to SAE 10W, more than adequate for good lubrication). Since installing it, I've found the hubs shift faster and I hear far less noise from the rear. They also work far better in Iowa winters.|
Tip: you can also use the high-quality 10W turbine oil in the retractable tip Zoom Spout oilers found in hardware stores for electric motors for about $3.95.
| With no disrespect intended to the people who have provided insightful oil information, see the post above concerning roadsters in use today in Africa. The majority of the people who use these old bikes don't have the resources or information that we enthusiasts do. These bikes have been in use for decades around the world. These bikes as a whole probably suffer a lot more from a lack of care than from improper care.|
| Well for starters, roadsters in Africa and Asia don't have Sturmey-Archer gears! They are all single speed.|
As for oil, I give up! We've hashed about this on OldRoads for ages. I must admit I don't know what the problem is. Just use Sturmey Archer oil! It's readily available on eBay and certainly easy to find in the UK. It's called Raleigh Cycle Oil again (it's on their website) or get it through Halfords, it's called Halford Cycle Oil. Or check out the myriad Raleigh Chopper sites. Chopper folks are way more organised than we are. I got SIX bottles of SA cycle oil from the UK last year after spending maybe 10 mins Googling. Far less than we've spent talking about substituting sperm oil, 3-in-1, linseed oil and Dr. Pepper.
A bicycle hub is a mechanism. It's not a motor. Motor oil is formulated for something that generates something a SA hub can't and won't: heat. If regular motor oil worked for SA hubs, they wouldn't have developed SA Cycle Oil. This was a pain for SA to make in the first place since it was quite outside their line when you think of it. It was originally branded as Raleigh Cycle Oil and, as I said, is back to that now that SA has packed and moved to Taiwan.
My next step is to buy 100 bottles of the damn stuff and post it free to everyone who swears that refined paraffin mixed with beeswax has worked in their AC hub since 1949.
| No doubt one of the most shocking factory paint jobs I've seen on any Raleigh to-date. Not even the all-chrome ones can top this Phillips on Fleabay:|
NMA, NRS, ETC..
| Outrageous... Though I'm wondering about that being original... I suppose it certainly could be... sure seems to be but like you mentioned... I've NEVER seen anything like that on a Britbike before.|
If it's NOT original, whomever did it certainly did it correctly... transfers, box pinstripes and all!
Certainly a most interesting ride!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Wow! I wish it were 23"|
| Have you noticed those fenders don't have Nottingham (headbadge) Phillips style wire braces, but rather have the thicker Raleigh style braces. Could it be someone pirated Raleigh Fenders and did a very quality repaint? I think maybe that is it. How or why at the factory would they throw a prestube and raleigh fenders and a funky paint job on a Nottingham Phillips. If Raleigh was the ship of the line, why not do a special paintjob on a Raleigh? I think someone did one seriously good refinish on this. Perhaps someone who ran or worked in an autobody paint shop or the like, who had access to high quality painting tools and was a strong mixer of colors and spray overs. The transfers and stripes are childs' play compared to puting down a finish like that at such a high quality. I could be wrong though.|
| Who cares about the finish - if that ultimately is a custom model, I'd like to meet the fellow who did that box lining!|
| Excellent finish and a good number of photographs but I've never seen a Phillips or any other Raleigh-stable cycle in these colours not even a chopper. As I said the finish is unique and excellent. One give away to non-standard is that rear carriers are never finished in co-ordination with the frame finish. Whoever buys this will never lose it in a crowd. |
Phillips and proud?
| Smoked paint! Haven't seen one is some time.Usualy on German bikes.---sam|
| This is one I'l like to see in the flesh. Or in the chrome and in the paint. Whatever!|
| I purchased a bike at a garage sale. It says it is a Flying Jet Made by Juncker in Holland. It has a Sturmey- Archer 3-speed. The hub says it was made in 1959. It has english, dutch and french components. The only mention of Juncker that I can find are on Dutch sites in dutch. Does anyone know of this brand and who may have been the retailer. It sure looks like it was made for the american market. |
| There's a pretty nice Canadian Sports on ebay; item # 6549948060. It looks like 23" frame and the out-of-focus pedals appear to be Raleigh rebuildable ones. I've always liked the white mudguards on these. |
| Very nice machine. Too bad it's not in better shape. Would look nice with a B66 saddle.|
Were these ever offered in dark blue/creme?
| I've got two Raleigh Canadians, a '59 and a '61. Two different reds (carmine and fire truck). The 61 is a men's frame and came with drop bars and EA1 wheels ala club style. The women's frame is standard Sports issue with EA3 wheels and white fork "suspenders". |
They did come in a nice royal blue with white fork ends, white chainguard and blue mudguards with white tip . Nice bikes, both.