| For a DL this would look cool:|
I've seen horses,dog,football players ,etc but this is the first raleigh bird head ---sam
| That is pretty sharp.|
It would be even more ostreperous mounted to the front fender of my Vulcan Drifter! ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I have just returned from my annual pilgrimage to Beaulieu, Hampshire, UK, to the huge Autojumble that is held every September there. I am into British cars so it's really a sort of mecca for me (and 40,000 others!), and there are also a great many old English motorcycles and bicycles and their component bits for sale. I always buy something; last year it was a '52 Sports, a prewar ladies' Dawes club bike and a '56 Raleigh Super Lenton. This year I bought two. The first is a 1959 Raleigh Superbe, all original but dirty and a bit neglected but with rod brakes, gearcase, complete Dynohub setup with DBU tube, even a pump (working!), saddlebag and a complete-and heavy-set of original tools. Oh, and a bell as well. I pumped up the front tire and rode it around. All four gears work, although fourth is a little tricky to engage. The other bike is a 1947 Lenton Clubman, rideable but very scruffy. It has Reynolds 531 main straight gauge tubes, dropped alloy bars, headclip fixing stem, alloy mudguards (original? I can't tell but they are definitely old and British of course), wingnuts all around, and a flip-flop rear hub with freewheel on one side and fixed gear on the other. Brakes are steel Raleigh type, pedals are steel rattraps, and the cranks are three-pin type fluted. It seemed to ride okay, but I was carrying a Volvo clutch and a knapsack full of foglamps at the time, so it was hard to give the old girl a real good run! I will give the pair of them a good cleanup and see how I like them, but one of them will probably have to be sold to help finance this silly hobby/business of mine. I will leave a noice here if I decide to do this. They should arrive in November or so.|
I also picked up a couple of gearcases, one a prewar Raleigh, one a BSA and the other a housepaint model; two sets of Michelin 26 X 1-1/4" tyres (one set is whitewall); a couple of NOS S-A triggers, several pumps, a nice fifties B66 Brooks saddle for the Superbe (it has a nasty mattress thing now) and a Brooks Swallow saddle, which is terribly narrow and looks uncomfortable as hell but may be just the thing for somebody, seven headlamps (mostly older Dynohub lights but one or two Millers) and four sets of new Brittania grips, plus other stuff I have already forgotten about. Stuff I didn't buy buy probably should have: a lovely Hetchins 8-speed, very nice components and dating from 1957, black and mint but about $550; about 15 S-A black plastic triggers with cables at $3.50 each; and a 1952 alloy AW hub with 26 x 1-1/4" rim and nice wingnuts, $35. Oh, and there was a stainless steel front wheel for $8 that I went back for later and didn't find, as somebody had been smart enough to scoop it up. Foolish me. Ah, well. You can't have everything; where would you put it?
I should sell a couple of bikes before the container arrives, so here's what I have right now:
1940 Phillips, really, really nice 26" rod brake bike, new Michelins, rides great, $300.
1973 Raleigh DL1, excellent never-ridden original, chrome, tires, grips, paint etc. all original and almost like new but with some minor scratches and little rust worms staring here and there, $400.
1940 Stoddard Gazelle, cheap club bike with dropped black enamel bars, rattraps, AW rear hub, Bayliss-Wiley front hub, Wrights racing saddle, top tube shifter, rides great, cosmetically not too bad, $200.
1969 men's Robin Hood sports, fair to good, red, rides well, $75
1971 women's Triumph, very nice, blue, $175
1958 women's Royce Union, black, unrestored but not bad, $50
1958 women's RAY, blue, unrestored, very rare, $75
1960 men's Raleigh Sports, black, very rough, Dynohub, complete, most bearings seized, nice original grey gips, $40. Worth that for parts alone.
Sorry about the shameless commercialism. It's hard not to get excited about all that old British iron, though! Maybe next year I will bring home a few more.
| Yes, indeed.. the first Clubmans (1947-48) had alloy Britannia mudguards. Later in 1948 they went to celluloid ones. |
| Installed some new brake pads/shoes on the old Raleigh Sports. Works O.K. but the is a bigger gap between the pads and the rim which means more brake lever travel. Am thinking of using some flat and spring washers to take up the gap. Is this acceptable or is there a better way to adjust the brakes? Thx in advance, Thom.|
| Use a brake "third hand" tool to pull excess cable slack out of the system and bring the pad surfaces closer to the rims. Then tighten the cable fixing nut at the end of the caliper.|
| Or just use two hands. I screw in the adjuster all the way, then loosen the anchor bolt. With my left hand I squeeze the caliper together and then take out most of the slack at the end of the cable and retighten the anchor bolt. Release the caliper and check if the adjustment is close. If it's too tight, try again and give it a bit more slack. Then adjust the brake normally with the adjuster.|
| Thanks David and Steve. That's the info I needed. ThomJ.|
| Don't know if anyone's seen this one yet.... |
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Have a one speed two seater raleigh,can't find any numbers|
or names except front hub states made in Germany,26 inch wheels with very thick spokes,white saddles have some numbers and letters but unreadable.Any guess as to it's age
or what model? (painted over,missing head badge)
| A Raleigh tandem? Without the badge, how are you sure? I'd expect any English tandem to have English brakes, not German (Union brand?). Can you post a picture?|
| To David: Yes I think it's a Raleigh because it,s got a Raleigh stem and head set plus the fenders have that Raleigh|
bead.Thing is it's be in a wreck where the seat posts have been welded,and I think sometime after that it was Schwinn
ised.(some of the bolts have an S,the rims are 26x 1.75 with
a Bendex coster brake.Wald handlebars with Hunt wilde grips.)Front brake is Weinmann.What do you think?
| It does sound like a mishmash of parts. I doubt that the stem or the "bullet" on the fender really tell us much. But a Raleigh would have the [in]famous 26 thread per inch threading. You might try this: Remove the handlebar and the lock nut from the head set. Try the nut on a known Raleigh (26 tpi) steer tube, or just measure the thread pitch and see if the bike (or the fork anyway!) is Raleigh. I suppose you could try the same test on one of the bottom bracket lock nuts, too. (It DOES have three-piece cottered cranks?) Post a picture if you can! |
| You may very well have a home made tandem as opposed to a crashed tandem. Have a look at Sheldons website here to see if the layout of the tubeset is similar.|
| No I think it an factory tandem,just not sure who.|
Has three holes for head badge,looks like torrington pedals?
Raleigh didnt make tandems? German bike?
| My Schwinn T&C tandem has bowed German pedals (end caps say "Made in Germany") but the Schwinn bolts have "AS" not "S." I doubt that it's a Raleigh (thread test would be strong evidence). I'd think that the small threaded things [that are still original] would have metric threading if it's of Continental origin. |
| Went to a swap meet Saturday,found out it's a Columbia.Turns out I was in the wrong country.Thanks|