| I was given a Raleigh Roadster that is says all steel and in all 100% chrome, 3 speed hub and front and rear lights that run from the internal hub. It also has rod brakes and the drive train is inclosed. The fork has a lock and key that locks the fork in 3 different positions. It has twisted steel springs, Brooks B.33 leather saddle. Trying to date this is hard because the 64 an 8 stamped on the AG Sturmey Archer Hub means it was made in 1964, but the frame has 402192 stamped on it with no letters included, the chart says that these numbers would put it at 1912 to 1913. does anyone out there know about this unusual bike. It is beautiful with no rust but I am missing the front wheel|
| If it says 'All Steel' on the frame then it isn't as early as 1913. I believe (and others will know for sure) that the 'All Steel' branding was a post 1945 marketing idea. Steel was in short supply in the UK after WW2 and there was a big push for exports to gain much needed income. Some bicycles were poor quality copies of the pre-war models and Raleigh were having none of this hence 'ALL STEEL'.|
Matthew - off to ride a while on aluminium?
| Hello Bill,|
You have, without a doubt, a '64 Raleigh Roadster. These all-chrome variants of the standard models popped up around the early-mid '60s.
From what I've heard, they were produced as dealer incentives to sell a good quantity of Raleighs -essentially, "meet a specific quota of bikes sold, and we'll send you this unique all-chrome edition."
These all-chrome models are a bit more common on the Sports though - although we have seen one all-chrome 28" roadster like yours come through here before, although it featured
'transport wheels', I believe (if I'm not mistaken, 26X1.5"?).
P.S.: Don't bother with the serial charts online. 50% of the chart is either meaningless, and the other 50% is inaccurate.
| The 64 date given by Kurt K would make sence because also other bicycle companies were selling all chrome frames at that same time.If it sells for one company they all will copy.---sam|
|Got a picture? Here's mine...|
| !958 Lenton Grand Prix Reg Harris Model, full fendered Brittania Plastic off white, Dunlop steel rims 27 Inch, main tubes Reynolds 531, 22 inch frame, Sturmey Archer FM 4 speed internal, 3 cog cluster with single Williams chainwheel, Cycle Benelux derailleur single cable, original bar tape, greenish gold, great graphics, unrestored, good running condition, new rubber $475 includes disassembly, packing, shipping and insurance, continental USA only, payment by cash or money order. Picture by request. Thanks for looking! paul|
| paul,please send me a picture,i am interested,Howard|
| Just recieved two pairs of EA3 whitewall tyres, see pics (copy/paste URL into your web browser):|
Tread is identical to that of the blackwalls on my Robin Hood:
Tyre brand is Duro, max inflation, according to sidewall, is 60 PSI, however, I've found the blackwall variant, which is essentially identical to the whitewall, to perform very well at 70-75 PSI without blowouts, punctures or problems of any kind over both rough (various tree debris scattered over the roads from Katrina) and smooth terrain.
This particular tread runs exceptionally smooth on flat pavement, a tad better then most brick-treads, incedentally.
If anyone is interested in a pair, let me know. I've found many Raleigh colors to be very complementary to these whitewalls, such as Gold, Burgundy/Rudge Maroon, Carmine Red, Ivory, Sky Blue, and others. I can order more sets if there's a big enough demand for them.
Price for a pair is $40 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Mind you, I will have to double-up the tyres upon themselves for shipping.
P.S.: I can get these tyres in a few different tread variants: both brick, brick/smooth, street, and two others that are not as important: ATB, ATB agressive.
If anyone might be interested, just drop me a line at email@example.com.
| Do these mount easily? I had a heckuva time today getting IRC tires onto Raleigh Endrick rims. "Tight" didn't describe it!|
| You bet these fit tight on Endricks, David. Had to put vaseline on the bead to get the blackwall version to climb over the rimwall on my Robin Hood. I believe this to be more the fault of Raleigh's thick dual-wall rims. |
Duros do have the tightest fit on Raleigh rims that I've seen yet, followed by Chen Shing Tyre (have two CSTs on a pair of Westricks - still difficult to install). The majority of other brands come in third, and those cheap, rubbish LHR brick blackwalls that you find at Wal-Mart mount the easiest...and also blow off the rim easiest, as the rubber tears right off the bead, exposing the metal wires, after a week or so. I find that it's worth the extra effort for these excellent Duro tyres.
I found that the best way to mount these are by installing one bead of the tyre onto the rim, slipping the valve stem under the
I also use three Pedro's-brand tire levers to mount these Duro (and all other) tyres - the Pedro's levers are exceptionally strong and are puncture resistant, as they are constructed of hard yellow plastic rather then metal. They'll take a lot more abuse then Trek's worthless "Wrench Force" levers. Broke two Trek levers and bent a third useless when installing the Robin Hood's tyres, and broke a fourth on a regular 559 mm MTB tire. In comparison, I've only broke one Pedro's - it was my oldest and most-used lever in the toolbox.
| Whoops...almost forgot the tyre mounting procedure:|
I found that the best way to mount these are by installing one bead of the tyre onto the rim then slipping the valve stem under the tyre and onto the rim while the tube is fully deflated. Pump up the tube just slightly then stuff it into the tyre all way 'round.
Begin sliding the tyre lever around the rim while running your hand inside the tyre just in front of it, massaging the tube into place so it doesn't puncture. You'll find it quite hard to bring the bead over when you have nearly completed the revolution around the rim. Smear some vasiline around the bead on both inside and outside edges, and on the rim edge as well. With two tyre levers on each side of the gap, gradually work the bead over until it pops over the rim edge. Wipe off the vasiline, and inflate the tyre.
Hope this helps!
| Just put a pair of these whitewalls on my mum's '73 Columbia Tourist this afternoon - what a difference. See these photos:|
Pretty nice for a non-Raleigh, eh?
| Unearthed this from the drawers of the LBS. Why in the world would Phillips manufacture an axle in November of 1970? |
More importantly, why would it be stamped Phillips? After 1960, Phillips became part of Raleigh Industries, so you'd expect any Phillips made after that date to be fitted with a Sir Walter Raleigh-stamped axle.
Here's some photos of this curiosity:
Any ideas? Do you fellows suppose this axle would fit a Raleigh? Or, as with most Phillips parts, is it incompatible?
| I'd be very surprised if this a date stamp. Could it be a [metric] measurement of it? (Get out a ruler!) Or maybe it's just a code of long-forgotten meaning.|
| Hi Kurt,|
I think if you investigate you will find that Phillips are alive and well and making Double Cross bar bicycles in India and have done since ...well for a long while. Despite any testemant otherwise this could be an Indian manufactured part. My guess is it won't fit anything other than a Phillips or a Norwich Rival.
Short story to explain. An enterpirsing motorfactor in Norwich decided to rival the big boys in Nottingham and build bicycles in Norwich, Norfolk, England. Using the third floor of an old shoe factory (Johnson and Theobald Ltd in Heigham Street) They built 'Norwich Rival Bicycles' for about half a century. They were assembled from CKD kits and parts supplied by........Phillips of course. Apparently Phillips would supply anyone who could pay for the supplies, it boosted their output and was 'one in the eye' for Raleigh.
There was long held rivalry between the two cities of Norwich and Nottingham due entirely to both being major centres of the boot and shoe industry.
History lesson over.
Matthew - with a Rival in my shed!
| Looking to buy a nice set of vintage rubber block pedals, Phillips or such, 40s - 50s, BSC, 9/16" for a town mixte bike I'm building up for my daughter. The cheap imports to be had new seem disappointing.|