AGE / VALUE:   More chaincase woes posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 9/7/2005 at 1:46:19 PM
Finally had time last weekend to put on the 44 t crank on my Superbe. The crank is in good shape, decent chrome, Heron's eyes showing on all three Herons in the crank, and Sir Walter stamped on both cranks. The cranks themselves are more oval in profile than my original (circa '56) square profile 48t ones. No reason to assume that it is a 60 or 70's edition.

Pop the pie plate off, hammer out the pins, but the new 44 t crank won't fit on my bb spindle, about a 1/64 too small. O.K., so now I take out the spindle and head out to the shops to find one that will fit the new crank. Pop that one in, but I can't get the cups back on, scratch my head and try the cup alone with axle and the bb's. Nope, won't fit, now the new axle is too thick to accept the original 26 tpi cups and bb's.

Originally I ran the 48 t crank and a 23 t rear sprocket, because the bike is somewhat(!) heavy. Now with the full chaincase there's very little room and every time I go over a bump I get chainslap inside the case. Remember these are S/A hubs, so the chain must be a little loose.
So logically, if I run a 44 t crank and a 19 or 20 rear cog, I should be fine. Except nothing fits...

So now I'm stuck, and the bike is in dry-dock.

First of all, can anyone explain this freak occurance?

Does a spindle exist that will match my 26 tpi cups and smaller diameter cranks?

Would a workable option be to bore out the cranks a little to accept my original spindle?

Thanks
Edward in Vancouver
by: 207.6.239.56


   RE:AGE / VALUE: More chaincase woes posted by sam on 9/8/2005 at 12:39:48 AM
I had a similar problem when trying to find a BB fit for the russ tandem--the spendle that would line the chain up right was too big for the cups.The cups were specal tandem size so I didn't want to change anything going wrong with them so I lightly ground down the spindle---not much and only where it went tru the cup.I'm sure a machine shop would do a better job ,but with care and a bench grinder it will fit.(stay away from the barring surface)---sam
by: 68.90.181.240

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: More chaincase woes posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/8/2005 at 1:27:45 AM
Thanks Sam, thought of that, but it's the hardened bearing surface on the spindle that's too wide, might be better off getting the cranks reamed, rather than bored.

The more I think about it, the more it seems I'm caught up in Raleigh's change of machining. Don't know when Raleigh went to 24 tpi threading, but it would make sense that when they did, they probably changed the whole design of the cups as well, and with it, new, slightly different dimensions on the spindles.

I guess this thing is like my Uncle smoking his pipe. At one wedding he confessed to me that he didn't really enjoy smoking it, but it sure gave him something to fiddle about with....
by: 207.6.239.56

   RE:AGE / VALUE: More chaincase woes posted by sam on 9/8/2005 at 5:23:35 PM
I have a 46 tooth front sprocket if that would help---sam
by: 68.90.181.240






MISC:   Brake Cable Fitting posted by: jack on 9/7/2005 at 4:15:51 AM
I received a new set of brake cables (the ones with both ends leaded) for my 50's english Hercules Tourist. Much thanks to Warren! While installing, I found that there wasn't enough free cable resulting in brake drag. I figured if I lopped-off about 1/4-inch from the outer cable, I'd have enough free cable. But, how to do this without damaging the inner cable? Cable cutters were out! I tried a mini-hacksaw but the wound steel was too hard. So I ground a notch 1/4" from the end using a bench grinder then using dikes and longnose pliers, unwound outer sheath which snapped at the notch. No damage to inner cable and brakes work perfect.
by: 207.200.116.139







MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by: Jeff Arnold on 9/6/2005 at 3:44:20 PM
I have a late fifties Dutch Flying Jet. It has a Sturmey-Archer AW three speed hub. The shifter is also Sturmey-Archer but is reversed from normal. It is obviously made to be mounted on the left side. Was this common? Did English models ever mount the shifters on the left? Thanks
by: 64.201.65.22


   RE:MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by David on 9/6/2005 at 10:46:19 PM
So the lettering is readable by the rider when it's on his left? Is it readable with the trigger mounted above or below the bar? Is there any indication of it being in Dutch? E.g. it has letters other than "H,N,L" showing?
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:MISC: Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by Warren on 9/6/2005 at 11:33:23 PM
Some were mean't to be mounted "club style" on the front curve of drop bars, below the brake levers.

Like here...http://tinyurl.com/bsnfd
by: 70.51.147.138

   RE:MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by David on 9/7/2005 at 11:44:12 AM
Right, Warren, but the lettering is still on the same side of the shifter, though upside-down when mounted the usual way.
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by Jeff Arnold on 9/7/2005 at 6:18:36 PM
It must be mounted on the left for the writing to be the right way around. I have it under the left bar with the trigger to the left. If you mount it on the right and over the bar, the lettering is upside down. If under the bar, you see only the back. It seems to be a mirror image of my other ones.
by: 64.201.69.217

   RE:MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by Jeff Arnold on 9/7/2005 at 6:23:00 PM
Yes, I think Warren's photo is it. Looks the shifter,at least, is not original.
by: 64.201.69.217

   RE:MISC:   Left-Hand Sturmey-Archer posted by David on 9/8/2005 at 11:39:30 AM
It sounds like it's just the "upside-down" style shifter. The first English bikes I remember seeing, in 1958, had shifters like that; they were Sports, the shifter was on top of the handlebar on the right (the usual spot), and the writing appeared upside-down to the rider (who was in a position to read it.) I always assumed that the earlier trigger shifters were all designed to be mounted under the bar. If so, perhaps SA realized that riders preferred to operate them above the bar and then reversed the lettering.
by: 66.30.200.82






AGE / VALUE:   Date my Hercules posted by: Seth on 9/6/2005 at 12:14:36 AM
And I’m not talking about dinner and a movie. My bike got ripped off last week, so I borrowed my girlfriend's to get to work. I ruined her bike when I went flying over the hood of a car. So I picked up an old used bike on Saturday. It's been a bad week for me and bikes, but I think my luck has just turned around. The bike I picked up is an old Hercules and I'm loving it more by the minute. I'm trying to figure out how old it is. It doesn't have an SA hub, so that little trick won't work. The hub says "Torpedo Dreigang", "Sachs" and has the number 36. It doesn't say it's made in England on it anywhere, so I'm guessing it's German-made. It's got fenders, a rack on the back, and a headlight that still works with the front tire generator (the rear light is out). Number on the frame where the rear wheel goes is 4254920. Anyone know when it was made? Or what years Hercules bikes were being built in Germany? I’ll try and post a pic when I get a chance. Thanks in advance for any help.
by: 68.164.15.178


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Date my Hercules posted by David on 9/6/2005 at 1:41:02 AM
It's a German bike and I don't believe English Hercules is any relation. I'm pretty sure they're still made.
by: 66.30.200.82

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Date my Hercules posted by CKOKKINIS@COMCAST.NET on 9/6/2005 at 1:52:21 PM
THE GERMAN HUB IS A GOOD HUB I HAVE THE SHIFTERS AND INDICATOR CHAIN FOR THIS HUB
by: 68.41.206.53






AGE / VALUE:   Pedlas for sale on eBay posted by: Matthew on 9/5/2005 at 7:20:15 PM
I say chaps! spiffing pair of pedals on jolly old eBay, don't yer know?
NMA NRTS DKS NMS HACWSI etc.

ITEM Number 7180988479 for sale on eBay UK but seller will ship.

Matthew - a pedaller not a peddler
by: 62.252.0.6