ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   BSA age unknown help needed posted by: Pete on 12/9/2006 at 2:38:06 PM
Hi all,after the tremondous help I received from you regarding my 1934 Raleigh I thought I might seek your help once more on another old bike I aquired some time ago.The bike is an old BSA with the following attributes,24 inch frame,hockey stick chainguard, 28 x 1 1/2 westwood rims,BSA decals with the head tube being a decal rather than a metal badge,3 speed sturmey archer aw hub dated 50 and the frame no is y168d5 (the d in the frame no may be a 4 or something else it is very badly punched)It also has a BSA stamped Brooks type leather saddle and BSA grips with a black/larger type front axle.If you go to www.ciderheadz1.f2s.com/bsa you will be able to judge for yourself.I believe the rear hub might be a replacement.It came with an age related to the hub handlebar mounted sturmey shifter which looked out of keeping with the rest of the bike so as a temporary measure I replaced it with a quadrant changer.If you look closely at some of the images you will see what appears to be marks left on the top tube from another quadrant changer.I assume it should have a BSA 3 speed hub with a BSA disc type quadrant changer (with the gears going h n l as opposed to the usual l n h)I would like to put the bike mechanically back to what it should be but leave the paint alone.I bought the bike from ebay and nearly fell off the chair when I won it for £10.50 although I did have to travel a long way to pick it up.It was in a horrible state when I got it but after 2 new tubes and tyres(it had dunlop war grades on it) and 2 solid days of rubbing rust off the rims/spokes/handlebars and polishing the old girl up with a bit of tweaking and adjusting/lubrication etc we were off on a test ride and boy was I surprised.It rides like a dream on those big wheels and is almost perpetual motion,making that lovely noise that only a quality old bike can and has since become my primary mount.I did blast and paint the chainguard as it was beyond cleaning.
Anyway back to the original reason for the post, can anyone out there shed some light on the bike as to what year/model it might be and should it have a BSA rear hub with top tube mounted quadrant changer as I assumed?
Thanks all in advance and sorry about the waffling on a bit but I really like this old bike.
Cheers Pete.


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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   BSA age unknown help needed posted by Matthew on 12/10/2006 at 2:56:32 AM
Hi Pete,

Another 'bewty' as we say here in Norfolk. The frame angles, saddle, pump pegs, handlebars ect all shout 'Pre war!' to me but that's the limit of my knowledge on this one. However I have got a BSA hub which you can have for the cost of postage, complete with 26" wheel, or maybe I could strip it down to just the hub? I'll count the spokes & let you know.

Matthew - chipping the frost of the shed door and off out.
by: 82.14.65.54

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   BSA age unknown help needed posted by pete on 12/10/2006 at 3:44:13 PM
Wow, that's an offer I can't refuse Matthew.That would just leave me needing the correct BSA changer.I happen to know for a changer but the bloke who has it is one of those hard work older types who refuses to part with anything even though he has several lockups and sheds with literally hundreds of old bikes (some rare and very interesting as well) He is the reason that in my area you can't buy an old bike cus he buys all of them.
Just the hub would be good regardless of spoke number as my rim is horrible and the hub would be built into a wheel with new rim and spokes (mine is 40 hole with the wrong hub)
Thanks for the offer...Pete.
by: 195.137.87.130






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930's decals and things posted by: Pete on 12/7/2006 at 4:00:34 PM
Hi again all, Another favour to ask of you.If you look at my previous post on the forum you will see I am looking for info on model type for my 1934 Raleigh.What I am after now is any images to help me order the correct style decals for my old bike.In particulair I need images with dimensions for the following items: headtube and rear mudguard herons head decals/chaincase Raleigh decal/the all steel bicycle decal(and its proper location) and finally the model name decal (popular/tourist/special etc) If any of you kindly vintage bicycle fans could help me in this matter it would help me a lot and be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance and keep up the good work in preserving these fantastic old machines for future generations to appreciate when they realise just how bad the modern things they call bicycles are today.


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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930's decals and things posted by Matthew on 12/7/2006 at 11:44:21 PM
Hi Pete,

Try Llyods cycles or Classic Transfers for decals.

Matthew - off to work
by: 82.9.16.230

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930's decals and things posted by Matthew on 12/7/2006 at 11:45:05 PM
That would be Lloyds!
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930's decals and things posted by Pete on 12/8/2006 at 2:45:45 PM
A big thank you to Neal and Matthew for all their assistance in identifying the bike and their info on decals etc.It is decided that the bike is a TOURIST X (model no 21X) and will be decaled accordingly.
Thanks again you are stars.
by: 195.137.87.130






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930's decals and things posted by: Pete on 12/7/2006 at 4:00:34 PM
Hi again all, Another favour to ask of you.If you look at my previous post on the forum you will see I am looking for info on model type for my 1934 Raleigh.What I am after now is any images to help me order the correct style decals for my old bike.In particulair I need images with dimensions for the following items: headtube and rear mudguard herons head decals/chaincase Raleigh decal/the all steel bicycle decal(and its proper location) and finally the model name decal (popular/tourist/special etc) If any of you kindly vintage bicycle fans could help me in this matter it would help me a lot and be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance and keep up the good work in preserving these fantastic old machines for future generations to appreciate when they realise just how bad the modern things they call bicycles are today.


by: 195.137.87.130








AGE / VALUE:   sturmey archer hubs posted by: Ed. Torbeck on 12/7/2006 at 8:19:04 AM
What is the difference between a AW 1972 hub and a SC3 hub?
They are both coaster brakes.

Is one of them superior to the other?

Thanks for your help.

ed.




by: 65.255.138.244


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sturmey archer hubs posted by Matthew on 12/10/2006 at 2:58:20 AM
Hi ed,

I'm no expert. Look at Sheldon Brown's website and get yourself a copy of Tony Hadland's book about SA.

Matthew - ticking along nicely.
by: 82.14.65.54

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sturmey archer hubs posted by Matthew on 12/10/2006 at 3:04:04 AM
This will be useful

http://www.hadland.me.uk/gear.html
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AGE / VALUE:   sturmey archer hubs posted by: Ed. Torbeck on 12/6/2006 at 10:59:20 PM
I have two sturmey archer coaster brake hubs.
One is a AW 1972 and the other is a SC3.They are both for a 28 spoke wheel. I am in the process of building a Schwinn middle weight bike from parts. I want to update the bike with one of these hubs to provide this old guy with some gearing when enjoying this bike.
I am paying the price of having a dealer order a 28 spoke rim and lace in one of these hubs.
Which of these hubs would be the better choice to use.

Is it possible to take the outer shell from a 36 spoke hub and put the hub assembley from the 28 spoke hub into it?
Are these outer shells, for lack of the proper term, available? The custom built 28 spoke wheels are expensive!

Another question. My wife and I both ride and enjoy our Raleigh 1970s sport bikes. My wifes bike has a coaster brake and makes a ticking sound. Mine does not have a coaster brake and does not make the ticking sound. If the problem is more than just needing oil, can the inside of the 28 hole hub be placed inside the outside shell of her 36 spoke hub?

I hope I have made myself clear.

Thanks for your help

Ed.
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   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sturmey archer hubs posted by David on 12/7/2006 at 8:04:14 AM
You're probably better off just to find a complete 36-hole wheel or 36-hole hub to use. I'd stay away from the coaster brake one and use caliper brakes, especially if you can find an aluminum rim or wheel (better braking). The hub you have that doesn't tick probably needs some oil. 20 weight motor oil is best, stay away from vegetable-based oils. Check out http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html to learn a lot about these bikes. Happy riding!
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   RE:AGE / VALUE: sturmey archer hubs posted by sam on 12/7/2006 at 9:15:16 PM
As David said it's easy to find late model 36 hold hubs---I'll add that the some Schwinn middle weights were built with S/A hubs and calaper brakes.You need the M/w frame with the flat bar for the rear bridge.
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