| Hi Folks,|
i went to see my Dad the other day, it was his 75th birthday. Whilst there I had a look at the old bike he had acquired recently. It is an Elswick trade bicycle complete with basket frame brazed to the frame. It has equal iszed wheels, both 26", so it is a 'high gravity' model. dad isn't sure what to do with it so we agreed that I will restore it on Dad's behalf. NowI jsut have to get it home.
Matthew - looking forward to being busy.
| youre right about the years when the sw was produced i would have thought it would have been an aw hub,but when i read the writing on the hub the two numbers that tell you when it was made are 50 and it has sw on the hub not aw,which sounds strange but that is what is on there,the imfo on the hub is wrong acording to sturmey hist,its got me stumped i used to be a cycle mechanic so i know how to read the hub imfo,i will strip the hub the sw is diferent to the aw so i will compare the 2|
| The number of errors on the stamping of SA hubs are legendary. They were definitely done by hand...imagine stamping a couple of thousand of those without getting sloppy. If the hub has a second indicator in the non-drive side of the axle, its an SW.|
The bike sounds like a Humber derivative with the location of the lock and the bifurcated fork. Nice bike.
| And it may be a rare bike but that doesn't translate into valuable. Raleighs will usually get more money for a bike in similar condition.|
Sounds like a keeper.
| Isn't this a "Dyno" 3-speed hub? I was unaware of any made with SW innards (and shouldn't it be marked "SG?")|
| it also a steering lock on the frame on top of the tube behind the front forks,the forkes are girder type forkes, the electrics all work it has a tube attatched to the downtube which was wiring going in to it from the dynohub,it is originally on the bike since new. how rare is this bike?|
| i have got a royal deluxe, 3 speed english roadster completely original and in about 98% top condition,it is maroon with gold pinstriping,full chain guard26 inch wheels,and has a sturmey archer 3 speed dyno hub ,on the rear,the hub is a sw model dated 50, and rides well.|
| SW hubs are dated '57 or '58.|
| OK...this isn't 3 speed specific but I very much value the opinions of this list. I have just completed a beginners wheel building class and am the proud owner of my first hand built wheel (Campagnolo large flange "tipo" with 700c velocity rims)which is destined for my Mercian. I greatly enjoyed the wheel building process and am anxious to do more. Obviously I will need a truing stand. The one I used in class was a Park TS2. I was probably spoiled in having the use of this beast. My question is: Should I hold out for the Park or any of the cheaper stands worth while? I noticed in class that I had a lot less trouble than others who were using cheaper stands. Can the fact that I was using the Park be attributable to the fact that I had a more substantial stand? I'm thinking that some of the hefty wheels I use on my Raleighs might be a bit much for some of those flimsy looking cheaper stands. Thoughts and suggestions?????|
| I got one on ebay for about 120 inc the tilting base and 5 or 6 Park spoke wrenches. I'm very happy with it. If you're patient you can probably find one relatively cheap. The old Schwinn ones are the same as Park, btw. |
| The old school wrench I hang with stands by many of the cast iron models made by many marques. Make sure they will fit a large roadster wheel without removing the tires. You don't want to do this to touch up your wheels. Be careful that they aren't cracked and mount a wheel to ensure everything lines up. You can custom mount a dial gauge to take your wheel building up to the next level. My mentor has a dial that measures in the thousands per inch and he is obsessive when building a road wheel. And he frowns on the use of tensionometers when building a wheel using new old stock rims, nipples, spokes and hubs. Too many variances in the old build quality to rely on numbers to string up a wheel.|
I have a Hozan cast model stand and it is decent and only cost me $50. I've built 3 wheels only but have trued a dozen others. Roadster wheels are easier to build and maintain. My race wheels are built by my anal compulsive friend.
Of course the general rule of thumb for all tools applies here. Buy the best you can afford, once. It will hold it's value if you ever want to part with it.
| http://mnhpva.org/Meetings/Apr_02/MS.html Shows a simple to build, high precision wheel truing stand. Cost about $20 to build. |