| NMA, etc.:|
Thought this was interesting. Can't recall having seen one before. Perhaps this is newer production?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Not sure about this one Larry. The newest Choppers 2004/5 models had twist shift I believe. I only ever saw or recall T-bar shifts on the 1970's models which my friends rode, including the Sprint models with 'dropped' handlebars - hideous.|
A good find for the Chopperists out there.
Matthew - Roadsters for me.
| Those were used on the Raleigh Rodeo and some of the off-brand musclebikes with Sturmey 3 speed hubs, such as the Columbia Playbike. |
I believe some of the early-mid '60s Hercules Sports had these too.
| Saw this post on another list and I'm passing this along:|
Dan Ulwelling, owner of Rydjor Bikes and a good friend,
died last night from complications resulting from mulitiple myeloma
| Sorry to hear that, Sam. Condolences.|
| Sad news on the same day in which four Welsh Cyclists lost their lives in a tragic accident (see www.bbc.co.uk ). My sympathy to those who knew Dan or the members of the Rhyl cycling club.|
| Anyone ever had a problem with a bike pulling to one side? Recently obtained a mint (really mint, virtually unridden) 1973 CCM roadster with SA hubs, etc. like a typical Raleigh of the time, yet it has a habit of pulling left. I've been told the forks are a potential culprit despite looking fine, but I noticed (on the way out the door this a.m.) that the rear wheel has a tiny bit of side-to-side play at the hub. Is that normal? Could that be causing the pulling? Help?|
| I would think if there's a LOT of play in the rear hub it very well may be contributing to the problem. Additionally and if you've not already checked (I'm presuming you did), I would check to ensure that the rear axle is properly aligned in the dropouts. Same holds true for the front.|
Sounds like a nice find. I'm sure you'll get it squared away!
Larry "Boneman" BOne
I almost believe that you can credit the veering tendency for the mint condition in which you found the bike. I have had to correct 4 such bikes so the problem is evidently not uncommon. After you have adressed the loose hub bearings and verified the wheel and frame alignment, look to the forks. Be forwarned; tweaking the forks will correct a steering problem that actually originates elsewhere; viz., the frame. You could conceivably fix the steering, but find afterwards that the tires leave offset tracks after riding through a puddle. The rule of thumb for fork straightening is to bend the fork blades incrementally in the direction in which you must lean to compensate/correct the pulling. I recommend a conservative 1/16 inch at a time. Remove the wheel and brake caliper and insert the largest diameter rebar that will fit into the bottom of the head tube. This will give you something to pull and push against as you laterally displace the fork blades. It will also shield the fork crown to some extent from taking a deformation.
BTW: My brother once permitted me to try out his 1930 28 inch CCM. Awesome!! The company is all hockey equipment now.
Dick in FL
| There's several other things to check before you start bending. Be sure both wheels are centered in the frame and aligned properly. Check the steering head bearings for play, freedom to turn, and indexing. Be sure that there is no frame damage (bent stays, failing joints, etc.) Also check the frame tubes near the head. Often a head-on collision will bend the frame a little. It may seem nice and strong, but the geometry is FU just enough to spoil the handling.|
| We had a little (20" wheel) loop frame Hercules which left two tyre tracks and was hard work to pedal. It had about 2 degrees of 'disagreement' between the headstock and the seat post, when viewed from the front of the machine. You could not detect the damage in any other way it was so discreet. We found it when my daughter rode through a puddle and left two distinct tyre tracks, side by side. As I said, the damage couldn't be seen unless you went hunting for it. We don't have the bike now, we were only looking after it, the owner was told about the damage. It happened before our time.|
Damaged frames need expert repairs, not banging with hammers.
Matthew - twist and shout.
| An update, and thanks to those who helped: after carefully checking the frame and wheel alignments, it became apparent the forks were ever so slightly off. I believe the reason to be someone trying to shift the handlebar alignment with the front wheel tucked between their knees - we used to do this as kids, when a bike crash knocked things out of whack. Anyway, the expansion bolt which holds the handlebar stem in place was rusted and frozen solid - hence, when former owner tried to true the bars, he bent the forks instead. The best part was being able to return the forks to normal using the same method ( and very little torque, surprisingly). I've now got the bike running nice and straight, and the expansion bolt is free, greased and working sweetly. Again, thanks to all.|
| I have had my Milano for several months now and thought I'd give an update on its performance etc and compare it with my Raleigh Sports.|
Appearance: While the finish has held up well so far (I have the black frame with the red transfers) I still prefer the look of a classic raleigh. The TIG welds are ugly! The handlebars are my worst complaint--see "comfort" below.
Gears: The 8 speed nexus needed adjustment after just a few miles; it was slipping in 5th gear. Other than that the hub performs beautifully. Nice reatios.
Comfort: The seat is too squishy. The handlebars are OK for 5 miles or so after that they are excrutiating. I'd like to change the bars to North Road and the seat to a Brooks. I don't know if the shimano twist grip could be made to fit North Road style...any thoughts.
Performance: Other than the seat and bars this bike is a joy to ride. The tires perform well as do the brakes--much better than a Raleigh Sports.
Overall if I could have the frame geometry transfered to a lugged steel Sports type frame, North Road Bars and Brooks seat I think I'd have my perfect bike. Any thoughts as to how that might be achieved?
| Hello Lawrence,|
Here are the simple solutions to those two nagging problems:
Those North Roads should be just the ticket for you. The Shimano twist-grip should adapt fine, so long as it is shorter then the straight ends of the bar, and that it clamps to a conventional-diameter handlebar.
As for the saddle, a Brooks B66 or B67 (the latter if the bike uses a modern seatstem for two-rail saddles only) should do the trick:
If you'd prefer a slightly cheaper alternative to the B66, Permaco makes a nice line of leather saddles, and the Apollo should suit the Milano well (note that the Apollo is only available with 4 framerails, and is not compatible with the modern stem clamps):
http://www.permaco.com/ (click on Persons Saddles)
| If you can find a "seat sandwich" you can use any four-wire saddle with a modern-style seat post. I use one with my favorite saddle, the B72.|
| Thanks for the suggestions! I was looking at another contemporary internally geared bike last night--a "Breezer" that was quite impressive. Anyone have experience with these?|
| Last summer I had narrowed down my "winter commuter bike" options to the Milano and the Breezer. I test rode both several times and went for the Breezer (Citizen, only 3 speeds) for several reasons. 1) While the Milano is infinitely more stylish it was more money for a bike that would be sans lights or rack. 2) At first I assumed the Milano was made in Italy and that it had alloy fenders, neither of which turned out to be true. These points might have swayed me that way despite the added cost.|
I bought the Breezer and while it is a decent commuter the components just are not very impressive. The shifting is flawless but the brakes, bottom bracket, pedals, seatpost, saddle etc seem like they are "department store" quality. If I had it to do over I would find a lugged (531) steel frame (20.5" Raleigh Competition in black...anyone?) and build it up with high quality, lighter weight components including an internal (perhaps 7 speed) hub. (Sheldon Brown did this and you can see the beautiful results on his web site). I am a huge Raleigh 3 speed fan and I own a gorgeous 1952 Sports with chaincase, brand new Brooks B-66 (a b-day present from my parents!, "personal upgrade" Brooks leather grips (off Ebay, not sure if they're knockoffs but they are very nice) but I cannot bring myself to ride this bike in Portland's very wet winter.
I am looking for a replacement nut for my 70's Raleigh Sport fender mount. It is a Whitworth thead and I am having trouble finding one locally. I possibly can order one from the internet hopefully but I would need to find out the exact thread size. Does anyone in this group happen to know? Thanks and I appreciate any help. I uploaded a picture of the fender mount area.
Is that a 1979/80 Raleigh Sports in Humber Blue?
Yes it is. I had some free time this weekend and spent some time restoring it. I tore it all down except for the hubs and cleaned everything. It is all original except for the front basket for the occasional grocery store beer run. Now if I can only find a rear fender mount nut.
| Wow! That is gorgeous! Got anything else like that? ;-)|
Is it a post-'80 model? I've seen Humber Blue '79s and '80s, but they featured the same rounded-edge guard as the '77-'78 models.
I'm quite positive that I have that fender nut you need. I'll check my spare fenders for them tomorrow.
P.S.: You can buzz me at firstname.lastname@example.org with your shipping address.