| I'm looking for a front fork for a Raleigh Sports. The steerer tube needs to be at least 6" long and the threading needs to start about 5.5" up from the fork crown. Condition of the paint does not have to be particularly fine (though if it's black, I'd be very happy) as it'll go on a frame that's pretty beat up. I have lots of Sturmey Archer and Raleigh parts for trade. Thanks!|
| I think I have a black Hercules frame with the fork still attached, would that be the same?|
| Hi. I acquired a 1967 Robin Hood. Appears to be a lot like a Raleigh Sports, but I don't know the model name, as yet. I am in need of a few parts. It is clear, rust free amazingly so it was either not uesed or kept clean! I do however need several items, missing front brake bolt and hardware beyond the wire-like spring, including the nut. Missing front fender, and hardware that might attach it to the brake assembly; it does still have the fork/hardware (that is why I suspect it once had a frt. fender). I am in need of the correct vintage SA 3spd. shifter (one that remains is missing lever). I also would like the correct make/frt. wheel, as it as been replaced. Your help would be most appreciated. -Nathan Tock|
Pictures would help if you have the technology? However I can reassure you that a Robin Hood would certainly have a front mudguard (fender) and almost certainly the 'Raleigh pattern' type which is common across the post WW2 Raleigh family of cycles. Sounds like you have the makings of a pleasant ride there. Fleabay is worth watching for bits and bobs, but you've started in the right place by asking here.
Matthew - you say fender; I'll say mudguard.
(I'd also say Robb in Hood & you might say Robnhood)
| Hi Nathan,|
I happen to have a black Robin Hood front fender left over from when I upgraded my 1969 to Raleigh fenders. As Matthew points out, postwar Raleigh-manufactured fenders of all labels have a family resemblance. The chief distiction of top-of-the-line Raleighs was brazed-on braces. Robin Hoods came with bolted on wire-type. If you can't find a suitable fender in a thrift store and are willing to have one shipped, let me know. (They are still quite abundant.)
| If Nathan doesn't take that Robin Hood fender, I'd be interested in it. If you have the rear as well, even better. |
I need to replace both on my '69 Robin Hood beater - the ones it currently sports could be considered 100% rust.
What you have is the original 'Ferro-airflow' mudguards which are common on Raleighs which have been stored in a damp atmosphere.
Matthew - the rust is always there.
| Hahaha! Believe it or not, they don't have a single hole in them, and the ends are not rusted through. |
The entire surface of the front fender, and 80% of the rear are completely covered in surface rust. Here's a photo of it the day I recieved it:
The AW internals were being swapped at this time - the originals were seized. Apparently, someone attempted to lube it with water.
There is no rear fender. I just checked up on the front that I do have, and the wire brace has gone missing. Must be around here "summers".
| I have tons of those braces on my spare fenders (and rusty, but perfectly straight originas on the Robin Hood) - don't worry about that.|
| Hi Kurt & All,|
I have seen total paint lost on mudguards & hockey stick chainguards before, mostly on much later models. This is almost entirely due to our British climate and lack of preparation. If the'guards went from pressing to storage before painting then they would be rusty the next day, especially November to February. Not red raw rust but a fine almost unseen sheen. Paint on that and all you've done is trap the corosion, add a year or two and the paint comes off in sheets.
I rest my case your honour, a clear case of actual bodily rust.
Matthew - where's my wire brush?
| Stainless rims, stainless spokes, and an FG hub:|
| Couldn't resist slipping the tyre on for a few photos:|
Didn't install the tubes yet, for I'm waiting on a pair with the older metal-valves.
| Sweet stuff Kurt - Where'd you source the rims? & what spokes did you use - I've got to do two 28 inch wheels and two 26 inch wheels - the 26 needs new rims (its got a FG hub), The 28 has a front dyno & AW. Another silly question - The rod brake rim with the raised centre is called a .........? rim|
| The rims came from Alex Hook on eBay. Cost me a bit to have them sent from the other side of the pond, but it was worth it.|
I've used various stainless steel spokes now and then - usually the generic stuff that icyclesusa.com sells, but on occasion, DT double-butted.
Recently, I've been buying the LBS out of their stainless spoke overstock instead, for I can get a fistful (150-200) of stainless spokes for $10 or so. These SS spokes came from them - I believe they are old stock from the '70s.
For proper spoke lengths, see these three Raleigh Industries charts that Oldroads.com has on their site:
The first chart are mainly export and non-Raleigh hubs. Some of the rim names here are completely new to me.
The raised-center rim for rod brakes ONLY (without a dropped side for caliper brakes) is called a Westwood. A combination raised-center rim with dropped sides, enabling use with caliper or rods (as my stainless rims are) is a Westrick. The box-type pattern without a raised center is an Endrick.
| P.S.: The Westricks are listed here as "Raleigh Patent Rim"|
| Thanks Kurt, |
Two stainless 40 hole 26 x 1 3/8's westwoods/westricks stainless rims on fleabay would be nice - but I think I'll just pick up something from old bike trader probably the Van Schothorsts if I can't find originals in good condition. I think I'll go the DT spokes - The spokes on the 28 inch wheels aren't in too bad condition except for the brass nibs. I thought of using brass again but will probably go all stainless. The 28 stainless rims are stamped Dunlop....
| Could someone with self-assurance bordering on arrogance please step in and clarify for me once and for all:|
Is the proper term "Raleigh Patent Wheels" or "Raleigh Pattern Wheels"?
Thankya in advance.
Dick in FL
Two 40 hole? Don't you mean 32/40h (or in the case of late DL-1s, 36/40h)? Or are you building a custom?
I highly advise all stainless, you won't regret it. The sun-bright spokes will enhance the whole bike.
If the rims are Dunlop, I would expect 32/40h. Might be good to double check. Your 28" rims are more likely then not Westwoods. Only very late '80s DL-1s featured 28" Westricks.
P.S.: I don't believe the EA3/26 1-3/8" rim ever came in Westwood, only Westrick. Then again, there might be a rare exception to this.
It's "Raleigh Patent Rim." Stated right here in the official RI spoke chart, second rim from top:
| And sure enough, an EA3 Westwood is listed here:|
Probably a near-impossible rim to come by.
| Kurt, I have seen many Westwood 26" rims here in Canada. Quite a few bikes came with coaster rear hubs and they came with Westwoods. I may have some somewhere but they are rusty. I don't have access to a box of rims right now. I do have a pair of almost mint 24 x 1 3/8" wheels(Resilion coater brake)with almost new tires. I may even have extra tires. They are Endrick style and 32/40 if I remember right. I also have a wheelset that is Westrick from a Raleigh 3 speed. Anyone want them. Email me at oldy57 at mts dot net. |
| Whoops - forgot about the exceptions from Canada. Up there, anything is possible when it comes to rims...|
| Take a look at the brakes on this bike|
| They look like some strange rod/cable gizmo, but the pics are so bad it's hard to tell. The only thing you can really see is the brand-new Raleigh crank set.|
| Sam & David,|
these brakes look like Resilion centre pull caliper brakes. Rather efeective and very much a period peice. I have seen them on some 'serious' machinery such as handbuilt sports bikes and a Buckley tandem. Some folks would by the bike to scrap it for the brakes!
Matthew - stoppable.
| Does anyone have a photo of the correct front hub that would be used on a 1951 Sports? |
I'm looking to purchase a front hub to complete the wheelset for my '51 Sports "C" Tourist, but I have no idea what the correct hub looks like.
Raleigh's spoke chart states the P/N for this hub to be H.40B or H.40D. I assume this is correct.
P.S.: Before you suggest "examine a repair at the LBS" the oldest Raleighs in town for observation are '65s. Previous to that, Miami didn't have a Raleigh dealer, to my knowledge.
| Wouldn't the hub be likely to have just one lock nut (the adjustable cone to be secured by the fork and axle nut) and probably an oil port covered by a little clip?|
| Methinks the early models had the flange on the nut (not the cone) to fit in the keyhole of the fork drops. That's how they came in the late 50's. Might have one downstairs.|
| Most likely, but the '70s hubs match that description as well. Could very well have an oil port if not a clip, for all I know.|
I simply wish to get the exact hub that would have been used on a '51. I would only use a '60s or '70s hub if I were completely sure that the pattern, shape, and stampings of the hub did not change.
I highly doubt that the hub design remained identical throughout the years.
All the best,
| If that's how they came in the late '50s, Warren, I'd put a good guess that the early '50s hubs had the flange on the axle nuts as well. |
Parts stayed pretty much the same at Raleigh until Tube Industries took over. Take, for instance, the Sports' lugging. Plain lugs were the norm until TI took over, using an interim pattern during the early '60s, and their second (and final) variant that popped up in '65 (or '64, was it?) which ultimately became the standard lug design for the Sports until its demise.