| Just found a Golden Sunbeam made by John Marston.All mechanical brakes, carbide light, 28" aluminum rims,3 speed rear hub?, original leather seat even a Sunbeam oil can under the seat. Patent # 15493/05. Now the bad news, it sat in a barn for at least 80 years. It has rust and the tires are rotted down to the inner fabric. No dents. Any value? Is it a 1905 bike?|
| Answer: Considerable value either side of pond due to age and manufacturer.|
Matthew - 'there's gold in them thar barns!'
(no offence intended)
| Check out what one British dealer wants for a 1913 Golden Sunbeam in a bit rough condition.|
| So I was right, wow what a price!|
Matthew - Yay verily my was smack-ed.
| OOPS! Should read - yay verrily my gob was smack-ed.|
| Matthew, What does "yay verrily my gob was smack-ed" mean????|
| Hi Butch,|
Sorry I wasn't clear. I used a phrase from an English comedian. Yay (or Ye) means yes, verrily means indeed. The rest means I was gobsmacked, or dumbfounded or amazed? So in many other words. 'My oh my I was quite taken aback by the secondhand value of Sunbeam bicycles nowadays.'
I'll try to not be so obtuse in the future.
Matthew - at a different angle.
| This is scary, I knew exactly what Matthew meant. Butch, pick up the DVD collection of Monty Python, watch it for about 10 years and you too will understand.|
Craig - Never mind the bullocks!
| I have an FW hub with a very clear 5 in the left area where the years are commonly marked, and a 1 in the months area. Does anyone know if SA simply used 5 for 1950 to economize on stamping, making the date of the hub Jan 1950? As clear as the five is, it doesn't look like another number next to it has been rubbed away. The bike was listed by the seller as a 1949, so this might not be too far off. Man, dating can be tough.|
| The serial # is 7855 BL which would put the frame in the post-1955 era according to the Serial Number Page??!|
| "7855 BL" would put it around 1953.|
| Thanks.I'll follow the instructions from the Specials: "Enjoy yourself, it's later than you think."|
| I have a question about the best way to route the cable for a three speed SA, I see in the bikes for sale there is one with a kind of a roller under the seat, so the cable goes along the top tube, then down. I like puting SAs into tenspeed frames and have been using the existing cable routeing on the frame, but the latest project would be neat with the roller arrangment. can you make something like this yourself, or can these be found anywhere? I can't find any real english frames to play with here, so I am converting a bunch of schwinn varsenintals into fun what is that bikes. any sage advice? thanks, jason|
| The SA 'rollers', also known as "pulley wheels", will not fit the small-diameter seattube of the Schwinn Varsity or Continental.|
I'd suggest that you use the original right-hand, brazed-on cable stops (the ones intended for the rear derailer), and simply run the cable through that, with the original Schwinn housing used up to the bottom bracket area. From there, just pull the bare cable out to the indicator chain, and clamp on the adjuster barrel.
| I've finally found (via eBay) a 1969 mens' 23" Sports, in fairly decent shape. Now that the bike has arrived, I see that it needs a few parts. If anyone has any of the following that they'd be willing to sell, I'd be much obliged: pedals, brake cables (front and rear, grey or white would be great), shifter cable, and a front fender (in green). Thanks very much. I'm new to the whole Raleigh world, and I can already see how easy it would be to get obsessive about all this.|
| Check this listing for some of what you may need...in green.|
| Thanks very much for spotting that. The fender is exactly what I need. Now I just need to find some new brake cables -- the ones on there now are fairly kinked, and I have no stopping power to speak of.|
| Anyone going to the Monson Swap in Massachusetts this weekend?|
| I'll be there as a buyer!|
| I will be there. If anyone is interested in a Raleigh neon sign I will bring it with me to sell. Price is $250.|