| ive got a western flyer 3 spd (built by raleigh) the rear hub was stamped 61 for 1961. its in mint condition, ive got all the original parts, but have added plastic fenders alloy post ,alloy rims (awsome commuter)could easily be put back to original spec. i nolonger use it and well this bike has a soul and needs to be ridden. if interested please contact me.|
| A long-time OldRoads contributor has suggested we add a new Discussion Area devoted to Club Bikes. |
Would there be any interest in this?
Please email your thoughts, or add them to this topic.
Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com
| The idea sounds good, but is there enough discussion of club bikes here on the forum to justify a dedicated forum to them? |
Most owners of club bikes use the English Roadster forum presently, and the combination of both on one forum has been quite satisfactory.
My own personal suggestion would be to rename the English Roadsters section, e.g.: "English Roadsters/Club Bike" Discussion Area.
I also suggest that the "Add A Picture" function display a text link to the photo, not an actual thumbnail.
Currently, the thumbnail versions of the photo are simply a reduced size variant (at full res.) of the full-size image, requiring the loading time of the full-size photo, even in thumbnail form.
Multiply this by two or three photos posted and the forum becomes five times slower to load then when photos are not present.
| Hi Vin,|
I'd agree slightly with Kurt but with the title remaining the same. I've been with you since early days and have enjoyed the full scale of discussion here (with the exception of a solitary case of 'limey bashing' years ago). Unless any other folks want a club bike db, lets carry on 'as is'. Thanks for many years of excellent service, giving us the worlds best English Roadster db.
Matthew - many thanks.
| I'm the one that asked Vin to look into a club bike discussion group.Not to take away from the roadester group but to add those people interested in English(or french)club bikes.Many that surf the net might see this group and think it's only for butcher bikes,gent bikes,and 3speed sports.The L/W group mostly deals with bike boom 70s and newer stuff---I though as long as changes were comming to Oldroads we might start a group along the lines of what P.C.Kolher did before yahoo pulled the plug on his group.|
Want to hear a pin drop---ask a question on the L/W group about a pre 60s english club bike---and I feel this group could also benifit from new blood,not that anything is bad or wrong at present--but new voices are always welcome here.So how about a welcome sign --you guys tell Vin and I stand with you--yea or nay---sam
| My guess is that a Club Bike forum would not attract anyone who does not follow the Roadster and VLW forums here already. So you could hear pins drop on a third forum, too.|
| It's an old Chinese proverb (actually it's not in the slightest):|
Cast a wider net, catch more fish
Actually it sounds more Norwegian with that angle..
Anyway.. nope. If you do that, you'll wind up with three people talking about bikes. Not eight. If you want to be more "inclusive" to use that 'orrible word, how about renaming this particular site "British Roadsters & Club Bikes". Very little seems to go on in the vintage lightweight side of this other than Schwinn Varsities and most serious discussion about British lightweights is here anyway. And since no one has thrown us out for "digressing" to discussing Clubmans and Lentons, I suggest we just carry on.
| Does any one out there have an experience with 406 mm or 451 mm wheels? I have the alloy 406 size now with 20 x 1.75 65psi freestyle tires on my Raleigh Folder. This works but I wonder how 20 x 1 3/8(451) alloy wheels and high pressure tires would work for on road use? The brakes I would think should be better with shorter reach brakes. Will I bend up a 451 rim with one short ride? I weigh 185. Ed |
| Hi Ed,|
Look here :- www.alexmoulton.co.uk Plenty of evidence that you are doing the right thing, high pressure tyres on small wheels. Take particular note of the on line booklet.
Matthew - small is beautiful - I should know!
| There is a big difference between a Raleigh Folder and a Moulton. Suspension! I run smaller, high pressure tyres on my Moulton, but for my other small wheel bikes I run light, but plump, 406 tires at low pressures. Not much slower on smooth surfaces, and faster on rough. Much more stable handling, far fewer flats, a better ride and more durable. Look at the new KHE "Premium Folding" 40mm and 54mm tires. Extremely light and pliable, with a thin tread and kevlar bead|
On my fastest recumbent I have a 60mm Schwalbe "Big Apple on the rear and a 50mm on the front, both at 35psi. They have about as much rolling resistance as an air hockey puck. Can't wait to try the KHEs.
I ran my Triumph Traffic Master for years on 20 X 1 3/8" tryes @ 50 to 35 psi with notably feqw flats and few occasions when grip was a problem. The rim wasn't wrecked when the front forks were damaged in an unfortunate prank (not me).
Just my experience, for what its worth. I wasn't suggesting that a Twenty is anything like a Moulton. having owned and ridden both I say they were very different machines.
Matthew - two wheels good.
| I just picked up my newest acquisition from Ebay. It is a Raleigh Tourist, SA hub dated 1978 (a little disappointed it was not earlier) Rod Brakes, 28in wheels, my first roadster. After pumping up the tires, I gave it a quick ride. SA hub shifts fine, brakes need some adjusting, and the chain guard needs to be attached correctly. Rides great and am looking forward to a long summer ride after a few tweaks. Don't know what these things go for, but I thought $50 wasn't a bad deal. Don't plan on selling it, it's all mine!! |
| These are great bikes, much less common than the 26 inch wheel "Dawn" versions. I recently bought a 1956 Raleigh Model 3, the Superbe Tourist, which I think a called a DL1 in the US. I believe the Raleigh Tourist has a 3 speed hub (the Model 2), and the Superbe Tourist has a 4 speed FG hub and stainless rims (the Model 3). In any case $50 is a good deal.... |
| Now that I looked at it a little closer, I have some questions. I'm new to these bike. 1. How do you remove the wheel with the brake pads strikiking the inside of the rims insead of the sides. 2. I noticed the seat stays are removable. Is this normal for this type bike? How do you adjust the brakes? Where can you find those type brake pads? Again I'm real axcited with this find. It just looks comfortable to ride and is a real head turner to boot.|
| You got quite a deal. |
Value of these things varies with location. Here in Minneapolis $50 might get you a rusty frame. I just sold a nice, but well used '76 for $300 to a friend who felt he'd gotten a bargain. Another friend bought one almost as nice from a guy in an area where they are not appreciated, for $125
As for the brake shoes, I just opened an account with a local wholesale outfit who has them in their catalog. They also have a good selection of SA internal bits, including critical S5 parts. I may start selling some of the odder bits of their inventory on-line.
| Harris Cyclery sells replacement rod brake shoes made by Fibrax: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/three.html#brakes. They also come up on eBay fairly regularly.|
To remove the wheel, you have to take off at least one of the brake shoes.
There's a lot out there on the web about adjusting the brakes, including the Old Roads archives. I need to do that myself on a single-speed DL1 I bought recently.
| Hello Neal, Bryant & Mark(s),|
Personally I never remove brake blocks to remove a wheel from a bike with rod brakes. I just loosen the forkleg bracket which holds the end of the rod stirrup. As the stirrup is sprung it will open wide enough to allow the rim to pass by the brake blocks. Some fork leg brackets have a cut-out rather than a hole so that the locator on the end of the stirrup can be slid out by squeezing the stirrup and sliding the locator out.
The brake adjustment is so much easier than cable brakes. Ensure that all the slack is removed from the rods. That is; all the fulcrums and levers are working freely but without slack. Then loosen the locknut on the end of the stirrup and use the thumb wheel (or second nut) to adjust the stirrup. You have micrometric adjustment of the setup. I tend to spin the wheel and adjust until the brake blocks begin to touch the rim and then back of the smallest possible amount. You can also tweak the fork leg brackets to give better alignment of blocks with rim.
Matthew - full stop.
| Hello again Bryant,|
Yes removable seat stays are one of the features of these bikes. According to the '55 Raleigh catalogue the key differences to the 26" wheel versions are: bolted up back stays, gents frame 24" only, 28 x 1 1/2" Westwood rims, deep section mud guards (semi circular profile, no centre ridge) and 7" cranks. This is longer than standard cranks as these bikes were intended for taller riders.
| Thanks Guys. I appreciate the information. I just had a Yard sale and the garage was open had a few people asking me what I wanted for the Bike. Sorry not for sale. I'm enjoying this one myself!!|
| dig any deeper|
| Interesting reading:|
| Excellent reading.|
Tangent & Coventry Tricycle Co.
Cogent Cycle Co.
You couldn't invent these names!
Matthew - Flegg District Union of Cyclists. (I made that up)