I need the groups advice here please.
I solved the steering problem on the B.S.A. Paratrooper bicycle. The headset didn't turn very sweetly, so I pulled it out and installed a headset from a Hercules bike. Perfect fit. So these are interchangable and the steering is awesome. Same floating headset, new races, bearings and threading on the fork is the same. I have a mixture of old W.W.2 B.S.A. parts like the lamp bracket and top nut with spacer but the rest is all T.D.C./ Hercules.
I don't know how many of my crazy projects would have been stoped dead in the tracks if it were not for the stash of parts I have gathered over the years.
Still bothered by this one ongoing problem. The front fork of the B.S.A. paratrooper bike has play in it. It moves back and forth and I feel that is unacceptable. I sat with this for hours yesterday. Tightening the headset races as much hopeful that this would correct it but no go.
This problem with play was there before and after the new headset was installed. I need advice here, what is the story with this play in the front fork?
I guess it is the steer tube loose in the fork crown and it needs welding or just a replaced fork?
I cannot tell. i do not know and I am asking the group here.
Do any of your bikes have any back and forth motion / play in your forks that is not immediately corrected by turning the headset nut?
The movement is slight, but is there and every bike that I go over in the process of overhauling bearings I solve this problem but not this time.
I don't want to go replacing the fork because the bike wil look bad with a mismatched fork and I want to keep the original fork and not repaint the whole bike. This is a daily driver to be, and your comments on this are appreciated.
My forks are mostly Raleigh and the threading is not the same and I am unhappy that B.S.A. made the parabike with the frame curving around or/ incorporating built in headset race cups. So changing the bikes fork to Raleigh or anything else that gets away from Hercules style floating cups is out. Barring experimental/ major sugery of the frame that I have never undertook before.
A fellow named Krikorian rode around the world on one of these souped up to be a hybrid gear bike and this is what I am putting together a hoped up Paratrooper bike.
Alloy bars, Resilion brakes, it is a wild project a mixture of old and new parts, original and not original.
Lightweight, fast, ball bearings to write home about, and it folds in half.
The front fork in the paratrooper bikes were not all that heavy duty and I'll bet some of the men broke the forks on crappy terrain, especially carrying all the stuff they had. The rest of the bike is bitchin- cool but the fork, is a let down.
| There are a couple of things it could be. What size ball bearings are you using? Phillips/Hercules used 1/8th inch balls in the 40's and 50's. Is it possible that your races use 5/32 balls? Also the cups that hold the races could be a loose fit in the steering head or the races could be loose in the cups. Snug up the bearings then apply the front brake and see if the movement is in the cups, upper or lower. If not see if the lower race or the threaded upper race moves. If nothing moves when it is snugged up, I would say the the races are worn or the balls are the wrong size. If there is movement when the bearings are snugged up it could be the stem brazing has failed. |
| Stem brazing failure it is then. Thanks|
I'll have it mended.
| The real way to test it is to put the front wheel in the bike and install brakes on the bike and then see if it moves. I was pulling on the fork without a wheel or front brakes installed.|
I will do a follow up post.
| I'm curious what my Rudge Men's 5 Speed may be worth. Circa mid-60s. Specs: Huret der and tt shifter, Brooks B72, factory rear spring rack, all orig but tires, BRG paint in good condition. Located Pgh, PA.|
| Top tube shifter? |
If the chainring is fancy and the saddle is leather I'd guess $125 - $175
| I have a couple of sets of 4 speed indicator rods with only part of the chain attached. I assume it must be possible to rivet a new chain onto the rod, but where would someone look for such tiny rivets?|
| Could you use those small eye glass repair screws?---sam|
| Cannibilize another 3 spd chain. The rivets are soft enough to pop out and re-peen over. I've done a few, nothing too difficult.|
| hi all,|
i need help dating my raleigh, the frame no. is D16514.
i would normaly date the bike off the rear wheel but this one has been reto fitted with a 3 speed conversion in 1949 i know this as the rear wheel looks very new compared with the rest of the bike, also the bike is military all black no chrome except the rear wheel, it also has a war grade tyre on the front. any help would be very much apreciated.
| Hello Paul,|
Military cycles weren't black, they were kahki drab, RAF blue or (possibly) Navy blue. Black with no chrome is probably an austerity cycle made under war time restrictions on metals, for civilian (may be emergency service or essential worker)use. I have restored a 1950 austerity model. Steel was in restricted supply then and austerity models were still about for home markets.
Point of interest, Rover car company developed the Landrover, with flat aluminiun panels, as a cheap export model to be made short term, to dig them out of a restricted market and bring in much needed export income. That was 1948 nearly 60 years ago, maybe it will catch on?
Matthew - nostalgia, its a thing of the past.
| that sounds about right, it was surgested that it was a black out wardens bike. what is cunfusing me is the frame no. i can easily restore the bike as a 1949 civillian bike but it seems a shame if it was something else, i would rather take it back to what it was originaly.|
| Ebay outing! Check out these original decals|
He has a few other brands too