| I HAVE AN ENGLISH MONARCH SPORTSTER. THE HUB IS A STURMEY ARCHER 1963 MODEL. IS THE BYKE A 1963 ALSO|
I CANNOT READ THE SERIAL NUMBER ON THE BOTTOM BRACKET OR I WOULD HAVE ENTERED IT IN THE SERIAL # CHECK. ALSO THE MODEL IS NOT LISTED ON THIS SITE. I
| Probably not rare (though your particular brand name is unusual). See http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html for info.|
| I also just accuired a MONARCH SPORSTER. It has a LUCIFER #16 headlight & taillight generated by a LUCIFER BABY 800? The generator seems very rough to spin. |
| We're moving to Nova Scotia in 8 weeks so I'm going to offer up some bikes before ebay. I'm in Toronto and a full Sports bike is usually around $75 US to the States...or elsewhere in Canada.|
My first offering is a 74 Superbe, working dyno front and rear lights. Brooks mattress saddle. Prestube rack. Red R nuts. All there and original.
The good news is this bike has few miles. The paint, decals and pins are 9.5 outa 10. The Dunlop Gold Seal gumwalls still have nubs on them.
The bad news it was stored damp so the raleigh pattern rims are blotched with some rust. A little damage to the headlight shell.
Ok news is that the rest of the chrome cleans up fine. I've pictures for anyone interested. $75 plus exact shipping, well packed.
| Thats a woman's 74 Superbe...sorry.|
| But as I get older, I sure do like the way they ride!|
| They can appear nimble...strange, isn't it. It really is all the bike most of the population needs. |
| I think that you will find that Satan himself rides a three speed when he feels the need for terrestial transportation. And you gotta figure that he could ride pretty much anything he wanted, so they gotta be good, right?|
| They were always my favorite bikes. Have you noticed that the modern "comfort" bikes still fail mostly to have the grips angled back in a comfortable way? |
| Well I did ride one but the Raleigh pattern rims are like wheeling millstones around. I ended up with sore knees. Alloy rims would help. I think internal gearing is the most premium way to gear a bicycle but the old SA AW. needs to be updated to a 7spd Sachs. I will always love the look of a traditional bicycle with peaked fenders and the graceful look of roadster bicycles. Riding without fenders is uncivilized. I allways tell the story of why the street was wet every 2 blocks (garbage truck squeeze) PU! good thing I had fenders! Keeping it clean Ed|
| Be sure to lean over and fiddle with Satan's indicator chain bringing his rear A.W. 3 speed OUT of adjustment. You know, that middle spot where the hub does not engage ANY gear and the pedals just freewheel about? This, combined with that moment where he jumps off of the seat to half stand and pedal fast. Sprinting. Now, as this is a men's frame bike too.... If anybody deserved to have this little mishap happen to them, it's him.|
If you have the time, when he's not looking loosen the wheel nuts as well. Imagine Satan lying on the ground cross legged cursing after slaming a body part on the top tube bar of the maladjusted 3 speed bike.
| With reference to the comment about the shape of "comfort bike" handlebars. That is the one gripe I have about my Bianchi Milano. I continue to enjoy it though. The Shimano Nexus 8 speed is a joy to use as long as I remember which way to turn the shifter.|
We have just added a Breezer Villager to our collection which is an even better take on the concept. On this the bars are a better shape. Nitto does make a North Roads pattern and I may swap out those on my Bianchi for the stock ones.
| Hopping up the three speed:|
Install a 22 or 24 tooth rear cog. Pitch the standard 18 tooth rear cog. It is too small, was put there for cost saving, corporate bean counter induced needs and thus people hated the gear range.
Add hybrid gears to the three speed, or another rear hub.
Smaller front chainring. The basic front steel chainring that came on these bikes was too large. Names or decorative symbols and nice chrome but not ideal for long rides. The front chainwheel needs to be ripped out and a smaller one put in. Go to a cotterless bottombracket spindle and matching crankset. You'll get a smaller inner chainring, front changer also if you want one. The cotter pins are a royal pain. You want to be able to change bottombracket cups and spindles and regrease the bottombracket quickly, easily, and often. I love the red little cotter pin caps too. Those red R nuts, I love them. but cotter pins are still a pain. They can be fitted wrong by the inexperienced and come loose and are difficult to remove without tools and cotter pins are a hassle. Changing the handlebars to something alloy and with a longer stem. Something that fits the fork steer tube. Change the wheel rims to alloy. Change the brakes to something better with those red Scott Mathauser brake pads. The seat post: Change that to alloy and one that is long enough. Change the seat to whatever you find comfortable. I have a gel cover over my Brooks leather.
The all steel lamp bracket's are heavy. Lose them. The quaint old lights are total junk compared to what is available now. The bike falls over and the glass bezel is shattered. Nope. We want halogen bulbs and shatterproof lens. The Wald kickstand is the first evil thing to be shed. As we remove it with a wrench we see how the frame stay area was mashed down and damaged from over tightening that all steel Wald kickstand. You want a two legged, stable Esge Pletcher kickstand. If the frame is not Reynolds 531. If it's not a club bike, remember that you are cheating yourself out of over 60 % of the magic and potential of the whole experience.
Metal mudguards are heavy and rattle and get dented and rust. Your rack needs to be alloy and practical and functional. The old school, all steel bells are better then the new bells that are alloy. Wing nuts for the wheels, steel or preferrably alloy. Make it easier to change a tube or tire. Quick release seat post rear binder bolt as well. Replace all headset bearing races with new original, replace original bottombracket cups with original new cups. Your cotterless spindle with work with old original new or used cups. This is important.Stay away from 3/ 32 chain. stay with 1/2 x 1/8 chain. you can still hybrid gear with 1/8 th chain. Thanks to the huret alvit! You want thick handlebar grips something that removes shock.Tires are important no knobby replacement crap to slow you down. Don't be afraid to search for what is right.
| Love my Britbikes... but also love the other ... "eclectic" bikes in my herd. One I've had an eye on are the Electra "Townies". An odd name... but very interesting machines. I own an Electra Rat Fink and for a funky looking "chopper", it's EXTREMELY comfy to ride!|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I spent the winter building a bike around a Shimano 7 speed Nexus hub. I used an old Jazz frame. You need 30 mm spacing and horizontal dropouts. I went with the roller rear brake. It has a B-72 and the highest rise bars I could find. About 6 inches. Fenders, of course. I have about 200 miles on it now and love it. I might like a set of north roads style bars if I could find them in black. I still also ride my sports every day too. |
| Reynolds 531 tubing size 22inch frame, great graphics and finish but with some patina,Britannia plastic fenders, B16 Brooks saddle, original steel drop bars and stem with original off white tape, 27 inch Dunlop steel wheels, new tires and tubes, rare Cyclo Benelux derailer, 3 cog cluster couples to Sturmey Archer steel hub model FM close ratio 4 speed, single Williams chainwheel up forward. Here is a '50's club bike ready for your riding pleasure. $350 pick-up south of Boston. I'll deliver for $50 within 150 roundtrip miles of Boston Packing and shipping extra (around $100) cash or postal MO and shipping to lower 48 only! Thanks for looking! paul|
Not sure what price this should command... but the opening bid seems a bit pricey to me?
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Last week a guy had a CCM tool pouch from the early century in very poor shape. $500!|