| Raleigh tandem in the UK - probably the closest you'd ever get to a Sports tandem...|
| When Mick Butler sold me the 1936 russ tandem shipping was only $100---now I've heard storys of $800 for a tandem shipped out of England!Bad part is the best buys on tandems are almost always on Ebay.U.K.|
But at present the best going on a tandem is right in your home state ,Kurt,maybe not an english tandem but still a very nice bike---cro-mo tubing.
| Seems shipping is no longer an option... no big deal... just pop on over and collect it!|
Nice machine.... *DTR* warning next time, eh? ;-) (Drooling Towel Required)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I dare say that half of those England-to-US shipping costs are inflated for the seller's benifit.|
As for the Schwinn, I remember when that fellow bought it and the discussion that arose around it on the Schwinn
Personally, I detest those Schwinn tandems. They look (and are) ugly, this machine being no exception - save for it being a complete disaster as well. Beats me to hell how in the world someone succeded in bending the top tube - must have been a humdinger of an front-end accident.
You know, these red ones (Twinn 5-speeds, in particular) never fail to remind me of Three's Company, same with red Raleigh GPs...
| No axe to gring here but just to point out that shipping bicycles is an odd business. One buyer was happy to arrange his own carrier and they just turned up and collected the machine which I had wrapped. Other carriers want the cycle taken to their depot (why? they are the carriers.) Shpping from UK to Germany ranged from £65 to £34 but the same bicycle to Japan was £300! There are great variations.|
Matthew - not a rapper.
| OK you didn't like the schwinn tandem---check out this one:|
In your state and English too---save on shipping cost!
| Sam's all over for you Kurt! As it were... the location is more propinquitous to my Mom than yourself.|
Here's what you do.... procure the bike. Hitch-Hike across Alligator Alley. Procure new tyres at The Wal*Mart on 41, install them and ride the ole girl back across Alligator Alley.
Depending on how many rides you get headed to Ft. Myers... you could be home by... oh, I dunno.... 8:00PM?
All kidding aside... a nice machine, for certain!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| The only things Raleigh about the tandem are the fork (maybe) and the 70s downtube decals. Frame and brakes are all wrong. I wonder what it really is...|
| Too much money, I don't have the space, bad pictures, and I don't know much about it (last thing I need is one bike with three stuck alum. stems (two seat, one handlebar).|
Larry, apparently you are not familiar with our South Florida drivers. I'd rather ride with the allegators, thank you.
| Good Afternoon gents...|
I recently purchased a '51 Rudge-Whitworth De Luxe Sports Tourist that I now need to bring up to snuff.
Photographs of my new project can be sen here:
Just signing in by way of introduction here- I'm sure I'll have lots of newby type questions in the weeks and months ahead as I begin to study and tinker.
| Very nice, sir! I presume the dyno is in the rear? I don't really see anything that needs attention!|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Well thanks,|
Yes, the dyno is in the rear hub.
Unfortunately, UPS mangled the rear fender and the headlight in shipping, so I'm looking for replacements.
Also need a new Raleigh pattern rear rim (40 hole) and new tires as the tires are the originals I think.
The biggest mystery though, are the decals- looks like several of them may have been polished off.
So looking for another similar for clues as to proper decals and their placement.
| Raleigh 26 thread left and right cup set for bottom bracket. Ebay #300017615792 Ed|
| Hi there,|
I started to strip down the remains of my old Filter Switch Unit last night, to see if it is reclaimable.
What a complicated piece of kit ! I carefully photographed, then stripped it down, so I understand how it works.
Sadly, the five rectifier plates have much corrosion on them (although 3 still work as diodes), there is a manufacturers mark on the one paxolin
end cap (SenTerCel A56), I have checked on Google and eBay and some SenTerCel references exist (as a manufacturer of rectifiers in the 1950s).
I have roughly drawn it out on AutoCad which clarifies the method of operation, and the intricate way it is constructed. I think I would need another for spares if I was to try and get this one working (and I would also need to machine up a new bakelite housing for it as mine was missing.
The SenTerCel end cap can be seen on http://www.wallisclose.freeserve.co.uk/photos/
as well as a photo of the rectifier.
Has anyone ever attempted repair of one of these units ?
| Sheesh, I consider it a major accomplishment when I change a tire. This is way beyond my level of knowledge.|
But please continue to share what you find here, I love reading about it.
Thanks for contributing to the knowledge base.
| Awesome, I like reading about your research as well. Lokk up the patent numbers and reading the application is another fun thing to do. As for getting it back on the bike and in use I would scare up a new or used piece and move on.|
However, tinkering with a thing like this and getting it working is rewarding as well.
| I've just acquired a 1958 Rudge deluxe with a filter switch unit and I'm looking to restore it to full working order. Have you had any success in repairing yours? |
| I needed to make up a SA control cable to use on a lightweight frame. None of the usual SA cables would reach, of course. I got some 3/32in copper tubing at the hardware store and a regular long tinned derailer shift cable. I thought I could solder pieces of the tubing on each cable end. This worked fine and I have a few tips for others doing the same. |
1. You can cut the tubing without squashing it by simply rolling it back and forth under a knife blade. It will cut through quickly without damaging the tube.
2. To get a firmer grip on the cable, I stuck a push pin into the strands of the cable where they stuck out of the copper tubing. It keeps the tube in place while you solder and gives a better fit. Just clip off the excess when you’re done.
You can get the exact length cable you need and you can get it with the ferrule and ends you want. I needed the threaded ferrule for my 4-speed shifter and I did not want to use one of those unsightly clamp on adjusters.
I found an old Bell Telephone crimper among my tools and I used it to swage the copper after soldering. So far, it's holding up fine.
| I save parts for exactly this type of operation. Ends where the indicator chain goes into the long barrel, the screw part where it goes in the trigger, cable housing or all sorts and lengths, clamps, roller clamps, all sorts of hardware.|
There is a nice variety of cable as well.
| I use thin iron wire and wrap it around the end of the cable and solder it to make an end fitting. Ed|