| I want to get back into this English bike fix-up. I've read in some earlier posts about the high cost of shipping stuff from Cycles of Yesteryear to the U.S. Is the shipping all done by air? Are there slower/cheaper ways to ship stuff like by land and sea? I'm not a restorer but I like to have bikes that are rideable and complete.|
| Hello mark,|
Shipping is a pain either way across the ocean. Cycles of yesteryear aren't the only specialist out there. You should look at The Old Cycle Co too http://www.ekmpowershop.com/ekmps/shops/theoldbicycle/index.asp
Tim is in the UK too but he may also have what you need. Failing that, list what you need here and see what folks have to help you with. You'll be suprised what there is lying on shelves in workshops your side of the pond.
Matthew - like Tesco, every little helps.
| I agree,lots of the common sports parts are avalible in the USA.After WW2 sports English bikes --Hercules,Phillips,and Raleighs were imported in large numbers.Also Sun rims are avalible in 26X1&3/8 Alum with 32/40 or 36/36 drilling.|
| Thanks guys, I'll save my pennies and then make my request.|
| I recently bought an old BSA bike, which according to the Strumey Archer hub, is a '67. I am looking to restore it and want to know some details before I get stuck in. It is blue, which I assume is the original colour. Can anyone confirm? There is a BSA 3 rifle badge on the front and scant evidence of the same, but as a decal on the rear fender. Any idea o somewhere to get this decal? It also has a simple BSA decal on the down tube (not the usual winged BSA, but a two-toned, shawdow effect block letters) with small stars seperating each letter.. Is there any chance of getting a decal of this?|
The thing I am most in the dark about is the evidence of pin-stripes, when I took some clip ons off. They look gold. Would anyone know the details of these (Where they start, end, on all frames, etc?)
There are a couple of numbers on the frame. One underneath the peadal crank housing - 3973192. The other is just below where the seat goes in - 37512 LC
If anyone has any information on this bike, or even better pictures, I would appreciate some help. I'm keen to restore it to as near original as possible.
| Hi Paul,|
Are you in the UK or USA? There are a couple of good suppliers of transfers (decals), Classic Transfers, or Lloyds Cycles, oth are on the net. Nick Lloyd probably has the best available range but he isn't always an easy guy to deal with (not everyone gets on with him). Classic Transfers will try to match what you need of even make transfers to suit your needs.
I hope other contributors can help with BSA history. The bike you describe is just the sort I recall from the late 60's. The colour is great, typical of the period.
Matthew - you say decal, I say transfer, lets not get stuck on this.
| Cheers Matthew. I'm in Australia actually. I'll check out the online shops straight away. |
I picked up decal from vintage motorbike speak. A transfer is what happens when I piss off the boss too much, or something that Mum ironed onto my t-shirt in the 70's.
I'll try and get apicture of the bikeonto here some time, before / after type shots.
| Hi, |
I have a forest green Raleigh Sports, and I'd like to touch up some nicks on the paint. Could anyone recommend a particular brand/shade of paint that comes close to matching a forest green Raleigh circa 1969?
Additionally, any other tips on doing paint touch-ups would be greatly appreciaed!
| With all the interest in Chopper motorcycles and the resurgence of motorcycles in general and with computers and color matching technology I do not understand why this has not been solved already.|
Some company should already be offering all the famous vintage bicycle paint colors for sale in cans ready to hook up to the shop sprayer. Touch up as well. A total rebirth of vintage British bicycles should already be underway with folks finding the old machines and having them stripped and prepared and primed and painted. We need to get organized and start painting and bringing these back to glorious new life. It starts with a well known company copying exactly the famous colors of old British cycles. And offering it for sale.
We also need painters who will sell a decal without insisting on the whole job or nothing. We need a bicycle painter who will be reasonable, do it corectly, not violate our trust or deliver back of the hand service. It has to look like it did in the shop show room and not look wrong of artifically new, no glossy, glassy, mess but as it was.
I am going to do something to advance this further. This has been an issue for too long.
| If you have either a body shop near or a paint dealer who deals with PPG paint, take the chain guard to them and have them "Brick" it, they can mix exact color match.|
| I am looking for anyone who might be able to help me find the top tube and downtube for an early 50's British frameset. It has to have the braised on pump pegs on the down tube. I don't need the whole frame but need the tubes with the lugs. I don't need the rear stays or the seat tube down to the BB. I have a frameset that is badly bent close to the headtube. What I would do is remove the tubes from the lugs and use the tubes in my frame. I have been looking for a frame here but have not been able to find a poor shape frame. I don't want to cut a good frame. Can anyone help me out. |
| Hi tom,|
What size frame? What length of tubes? Where are you located? Do you know the make of your frame?
Lots of questions but I think they will help other folk to help you.
Matthew - just trying to help.
Why not just use new tubes? You don't mention the type of bike, but unless it's a Bates Cantiflex you should be able to find what you need. (In fact I seem to remember a mention, on the Classic Rendezvous list, of someone in England having a few sets of Cantiflex tubing.)
If it's a high quality frame, Reynolds 531 tubes are still out there. Or if you don't have to have original equipment you can order individual True Temper Verus tubes in the appropriate sizes and gauges inexpensively from http://henryjames.com/price-p3.html
If itís a plain gauge frame, just order a couple of pieces of 4130 from Wicks at 1-800-221-9425. 0.058" or 0.049" wall thickness would be suitable for a typical 3 speed, or 0.035" would be a suitable substitute for plain gauge Reynolds.
As for pump pins, they are readily available. If you want to keep the original style pins for your bike, just cut a diamond shaped section of tubing, surrounding your current pins, from the damaged tubes. This is what I did back in the day, before braze-ons were commonly available here in the midwest. Here's one on my wife's mixte, cut from a trashed 3 speed.
| Thanks for the replies Matthew and Mark. Mark you know me Tom in Winnipeg. I was at the ABCE. The bike I have is a 1952 Humber with the twin tube forks. I got the bike from the original owner who painted it a metalic blue. The original paint was the Humber dark blue. The top tube is damaged and also the down tube. It looks like the bike was in a head on crash but the forks are not damaged. The owner doesn't remember how the frame got damaged or maybe he was too embarassed to tell me. The pump pegs were cut off also. I can still ride the bike as it is and it rides straight as an arrow. The tubes do have to be replaced. I want to restore the bike as it is quite rare to find on this side of the pond. I would like to find the same tubes as it has with the pump pegs already attached. I did fnd a 1951 Rudge bike with the same frame and it was painted a few times. I don't really want to cut up that bike as it is also rare. I will keep my eyes open for a frame I can use. |
Are you planning to replace both tubes and keep the original head tube and lugs or slice a whole new (old) front end on the rear triangle?
Have you done this sort of thing before? If not I can pass along some advice. Starting with; Don't use heat to remove the tubes.
You should still be able to reuse the original pump pins using the original mounting method, if you don't like the diamond cut-out method.
| HAVE SM. 110 VOLT WELDER, CAN HANDLE UP TO 1/4" STEEL. ALSO CAN HANDLE OTHER ODD JOBS FOR BIKES. EMAIL ME WITH YOUR NEEDS. I CHECK EMAILS DAILY.|
| Hello Mark,|
This sounds great but I do have a minor concern or two. Most frames are hard soldered - known as brazed - and if you weld near a brazed joint it might just drop to bits on you. Frame repairs on roadsters really need to be brazed. MIG welding (metal inert gas) is ideal for butt tubed frames such as mountain bikes and BMX. Is your welder a MIG welder or an arc welder? I wouldn't recommend arc welding on a frame. Its not very tidy and needs a great deal of skill not to end up making more holes than it mends.
Having said all this, in skilled hands and local + cheap makes arc welding a useful alternative, if not first choice.
Where are you based? I have made this reply appear simple for those folks who don't have any knowledge of welding.
Matthew - gone in a flash.
| hi matt, i have a mig welder,i am also skilled in oxy acetylene welding, and brazing.(those old vo-tech school days have payed off) i'm in the south shore of MA.|
| Hi Mark,|
Now folks know that they are dealing with a genuine and qualified chap. Good to hear you have all the right skills and equipment. I learnt at agricultural college, even did fire welding too (not very well).
Matthew - muck under my nails.
| "MIG welding (metal inert gas) is ideal for butt tubed frames"|
Don't you mean TIG welding (Tungsten inert gas)?
There are butted tubed frames MIG'd in production environments. However they use programmable machines, which cost 2-3 times the price of a high end TIG unit. According to people who have done this work, it takes much more skill and coordination than TIG'ging. They also state that for each new frame several test joints and then test frames were needed to optimize the program settings. And, that these settings would vary from operator to operator.
Hardly sounds suitable for repairs or custom work.
I've been building frames since '79, silver brazed lugs, fillet brazed and TIGged. I even gas welded one out of plain gauge 4130 to make use of what I'd learned in my airframe welding classes. But I wouldn't ride a lightweight frame, built or repaired with a basic MIG welder, around the block.
| Hi Mark S,|
Your expertise and advice are very valuable. I would only consider MIG welding for small repairs. Certianly TIG and brazing are the only frame building methods worth considering. I have made some mighty bits of kit with a MIG welder but all have been agricultural machinery. I wouldn't want to pedal my creations anywhere!
By the way what about the message a little way up where someone wants to replace a frame top tube. I know its do-able but is it sensible or worthwhile? What are your thoughts?
Matthew - in the frame.
| hi, i'm just trying to help out the little guy, who might need some light work, i'm in no way qualified in custom mod. or show quality work, but i do good work CHEAP.if you need help, and don't want to pay an arm and a leg, i'm your man.|