| I am selling a 1952 Raleigh Sports, men's frame (23") with enclosed chaincase (sans disc and elbow) and GH6 dynohub with lamp. The bike is in fair condition.|
I am also selling a 1955 Raleigh Sports, ladies' frame (21"), with alloy rear hub, original tyres, and dull-center rims. The bike is in good condition.
The problem I've always faced is this: How to ship these bikes? If people could give me pointers on how to ship a bike without paying the local bike shop to do it, I'd appreciate the info. One of the barriers to me buying and selling bikes seems to have been the shipping problem.
| Use Amtrak if possible. For 10 bucks you can buy an oversize bike box from Amtrak that will accommodate most any bike without takedown. Wrap the bike in bubble wrap, shove it in the box and away you go. Cheap too! Of course, both you and the buyer need access to an Amtrak station. Otherwise stay away from UPS. FedEx is a better bet.|
| Where are you located? You might get a buyer to pick up the bike. I'd be interested in the men's Sports myself. I'm in Indiana.|
I agree that FedEx is better than UPS -- cheaper, too, when it comes to shipping bicycles.
Here are pics of the men's bike. I live in Houston, Texas. I have got some tips on packing, and I think I might give it a go and try my hand at packing this bike.
| Pics of the woman's bike just posted. Use the link to the man's bike and then go back to the main page.|
| Hi, How much do you want for the '52 Raleigh Sports? |
| I see that there are more than a few members that have started Readers Rides web sites but have gotten no further and I wonder if it's because of a lack of decent graphics software or experience. If anyone needs help formatting pictures to size, drop me a note. We have an opportunity to create a valuable resource through this picture achive. Thanks again to Vin and VVVintage for their selfless continued support of the study and history of vintage bikes.|
Change the "-at-" to @ in the email addy...
| Yeah... softwar doesn't always allow for the proper "formatting" of pics.... but, when you get the right stuff... for web-page viewing, 640 x 480 at 72dpi is the way to go.|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| In my case, when I went to upload my photos I learned my photos are too large. |
I guess I need to find a photo resizer. I know they're out there. I used one for something once. I just have to get around to it, and you know how that goes....
I hope to do it on a rainy day soon.
| Resolution is not as important as compression in this case. Photoshop is the ticket but it can be a bear for a newbie to learn. If you look at my Moulton pic, it's actually 1400 X 1100 pixels at 72 DPI but using advanced jpeg compression, the file size is only 100kb. I could post 50 pics with the 5 mb limit. And they aren't too shabby.|
Seriously, send me your larger pics (2 or 3 mbs?)and I'll resize them and send them back for you to post. No sweat, takes 30 secs.
| Warren, I'm going to send you some photos. I tried to find an application on the internet to help, but I'm not finding what I need. Thanks! |
| Does anyone know the best way to ship bikes from England? Many ebay-uk sellers prefer not to ship to the US for some reason. Is there a courier that will pick up the bike and box it for me? What's the best courier to use, and how much will this end up costing me?|
| David- DHL is pretty good and reasonably priced. You'll still need to get the seller to have the bike cartonized and called for pick-up in the U.K. Thom. |
| Thanks, I'll call DHL. What info do they need? How much does it normally cost?|
| As with most shipping companies, they would need to know the weight and size of the carton. Don't know for sure what it would cost but I would estimate about $150.00 to $200.00. You may be able to get an estimate by going to DHL's website (or even FED-X or UPS) and use the on-line shipping calculator to get a more accurate price. It's won't be cheap. You'll have to be the one to decide if it's worth the expense. Thom. |
| I have a similar dilemma to the post below. I'm refitting rod brakes to a Rudge Whitworth which has a spring under the bottom bracket for the rear brake to return. Like an absolute fool I didn't take a picture of it in situ. I have now scratched my head 'till it bled. Does anyone know how it fits?|
| I might be able to help you. If yours works the same as mine then I have pictures! Some came out a little blurry but you'll probly be able to see it good enough... I will have to upload the pics somewhere and I will post a link for you when I get it done.|
| Well I guess not. I don't see anything spring-like about the way mine is set up. |
| If it helps there is a picture here hopefully |
| Mark - I think I may be able to help - I recognise the assembly in your photo and I think I have a complete unit like that in my parts bin at home. I'll have a look tonight and get back to you. If it is the same I'll take a picture of it.|
| Mark .|
Yup, I had the same item. I've emailed you some photos.
| Thanks Pete. Just the ticket.|
| I have a dl-1 I am trying to freshen up and am having a bit of a time putting the rods back on the handle bars!|
Does anyone know a trick for setting the springs that go on the rods where they mount to the handlebars? sorry if that's a badly worded question... :)
| Did you take the rods off of the handlebars? Did you undo the springs and are trying to re-set them?|
My advice is to find another pair of rod brake handlebars on e- bay.
Don't feel to bad. I am a collector and have traveled thru 7 states and Canada and owned many, many of these and I have done the same thing as you have.
Actually, these can be re- assembled but I have never been able to do so.
Others probably can.
I still say replace the handlebars.
| Yes, well er... I did remove one of the rods myself but the other rod was already removed when I got the bike and had been tied to handlebars with a piece of string. At least whoever did that had the forethought to attach the part to the bike. |
I didn't want to remove the spring because I knew it would be a pain to get back on, but the bars, rods, and springs were super rusty and there was really no way to do a proper cleaning without removing everything.
Anyway, I got my husband to muscle one of the springs into place for me. I'll need to get a screw before I can finish the rear brakes so I'll have to hold off on that one for now.
| I have the nuts and some parts in my stash. let me know if you need something. |
| Wow that would be awesome! |
I only need two things: the nut that goes on the end of the brake handle securing the rod and the spring in place.
and the other thing would be a a nut/bolt/washer type thing that would secure the rear brake "collar" (the one that wraps around the head tube) to the part that receives the rod for the rear brake lever.
I realize that this may be a horrible description of the part. I can get pictures if I am not being clear enough. Let me know. oh- and thank you so much! I was wondering where i was going to find these.
| I have some parts too. Have a look at this diagram and identify exactly hat you need.|
| I really cant tell exactly what the part number would be based on this picture. It would be whatever part connects P1124 to S533C ... possibly s433 and s535 ? |
and for the nut that goes on the handlebars... maybe S93 ? I am sorry I really can't tell from this picture.
Let me know if you want me to take a picture.
| is anybody able to identify the parts I am need in the diagram warren referred to? |