ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Elswick Hopper posted by: David on 2/19/2007 at 4:43:53 PM
It appears that Elswick Hopper was yet another brand that wound up being produced by Raleigh. See Ebay item # 190083451787
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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by: Warren on 2/19/2007 at 4:56:02 AM
This is actually a bit of a lightweight...item 270090985624

Look at the rear mudguard mounts. Above the axle! How for do you have to go back to find that. Shame it was painted because it's a nice little ride.
by: 71.7.150.172


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Neal on 2/20/2007 at 3:02:12 PM
Warren, it's hard for me to tell from the pic, but are those the mudguard stay mounts typical of Lentons, Clubmans, RRAs? And any guesses as to the model of this one? The lugs are different than my old Raleigh club bikes.

Neal
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Warren on 2/20/2007 at 6:12:25 PM
My Lenton Clubman has the typical mounts a few inches up the seatstay but this one has the mount right above the axle. Lousy pics

Here's a 51 RRA...http://tinyurl.com/3y5xuy and a 39 RRA...http://tinyurl.com/39z78r

Maybe I'm making too big of a deal of it but I've always maintained that a mudguard eyelet above an axle on the dropout means a bike is not a Raleigh.

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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Warren on 2/20/2007 at 8:28:56 PM
My Lenton Clubman has the typical mounts a few inches up the seatstay but this one has the mount right above the axle. Lousy pics

Here's a 51 RRA...http://tinyurl.com/3y5xuy and a 39 RRA...http://tinyurl.com/39z78r

Maybe I'm making too big of a deal of it but I've always maintained that a mudguard eyelet above an axle on the dropout means a bike is not a Raleigh.

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   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Tom on 2/20/2007 at 10:06:23 PM
Those mudguard mounts look like they are in the normal place, 3 inches up. The pics are not great though.
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   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Warren on 2/21/2007 at 6:03:44 PM
Look again Tom...the stays that look like they are 3 inches up the stay are on the other side of the wheel. Follow the near side supports down from the mudguard. They arrive less than one inch from the axle.
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   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting Raleigh on ebay posted by Tom on 2/21/2007 at 7:39:18 PM
Warren you are right. I did not notice the picture enlaregment above. In the large pic you can see it. I have not seen a Raleigh like that.
by: 142.161.57.147






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   strumey archer front drum brake hub lacing posted by: claude leblanc on 2/18/2007 at 9:30:49 PM
HI ! I have this old front wheel drum brake that i would like to use on my Whizzer . I laced it in the three spokes trailing/leading pattern , but it doesn ' t work . The hub is a sturmey archer from 1930-40 ' s with the opposite drum brake side smaller . Also , it as got slut holes where you fit two spokes into it . Does anybody can tell me where i can get the lacing pattern for it ?
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: strumey archer front drum brake hub lacing posted by Warren on 2/19/2007 at 6:30:42 AM
I've still a novice in the wheelbuilding game but I think it has to work with the proper spoke lengths. The slots represent two holes. I suspect you lace up the large flange first then do the small flange side. The slots are there to allow you to replace broken spokes on the small side.

I'll email you Raleigh spoke length chart that lists X3 as the proper pattern for the dyno hub.
by: 71.7.150.172

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: strumey archer front drum brake hub lacing posted by Warren on 2/19/2007 at 9:39:02 AM
Sorry, the chart also includes the BF front drum brake hub...the one you are talking about.
by: 71.7.150.172

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   strumey archer front drum brake hub lacing posted by David on 2/19/2007 at 4:22:18 PM
I haven't done one, but I've heard that it's useful to have some little plugs (nails, bits of wood,...) to stick in the slots when you do the first round of spokes on that side. I don't see what the Q really is about the lacing pattern. If you have the right length spokes, there should be no problem.
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   strumey archer front drum brake hub lacing posted by Pete on 2/19/2007 at 4:32:38 PM
I have a Sturmey drum brake front wheel (mine is a 28inch) which from memory is a 32 spoker if you need an image of it or you think I may be able to supply any info that you may need drop me an e:mail and I will gladly help where I can.The bike is 1934 so I guess the years are similair.There are some closeups of it at www.ciderheadz1.f2s.com that may help you.
Cheers Pete.


by: 195.137.87.130







ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   sturmey hubs etc posted by: Pete on 2/17/2007 at 5:05:07 PM
Hi all, I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear sprocket off an AW Sturmey hub on an old bike I just bought (the hub is not the right one for the bike but at the moment I just want to make it rideable) Was wondering if you guys could offer some advice and or tips on getting a particulairly stubborn one off without causing damage to the rest of the hub.The one on there now is horrible and snarling the chain.
All suggestions appreciated...
Pete, wishing he had a shed as big as Matthews.....

by: 195.137.87.130


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: sturmey hubs etc posted by sam on 2/18/2007 at 8:40:25 AM
Is it the old thread on style hub?Could just pull the driver and replace that piece with a new style---that would get you back on the road.
by: 69.149.105.249

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: sturmey hubs etc posted by Mark Stonich on 2/18/2007 at 8:53:45 AM
1. You have a normal semi-modern SA hub, where the cog is held on with a snap-ring, but you are a total SA newbie.

In this case follow the directions on the 2nd page of http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/sa/sagendismant.pdf

2. You have an older hub, usually mid 50s or earlier, with a threaded driver.

Remove the driver. Instructions for your particular hub can be found at; http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm
Then put a piece of metal plate, ideally 5/16" aluminum, in a vice, with one edge sticking at least 5/8" of an inch above the vice. Place the driver splines on either side of the plate and remove the cog with a chain whip or a drift.
http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/SA/driver-bar.jpg

This piece of plate in a vice is also the best way to hold a driver when you need to remove the dust cover to get at the bearings.


3. You have a normal semi-modern SA hub and you've removed the snap-ring, but the cog and/or spacers are corroded in place.

Remove the driver. Set it on a flat surface, splines upward. Find a sturdy piece of pipe or tubing, with an ID larger than the OD of the driver. Slip it over the driver, so it rests on the cog and whack it with a hammer.

by: 209.162.11.59

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: sturmey hubs etc posted by Mark Stonich on 2/18/2007 at 8:53:59 AM
1. You have a normal semi-modern SA hub, where the cog is held on with a snap-ring, but you are a total SA newbie.

In this case follow the directions on the 2nd page of http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/sa/sagendismant.pdf

2. You have an older hub, usually mid 50s or earlier, with a threaded driver.

Remove the driver. Instructions for your particular hub can be found at; http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm
Then put a piece of metal plate, ideally 5/16" aluminum, in a vice, with one edge sticking at least 5/8" of an inch above the vice. Place the driver splines on either side of the plate and remove the cog with a chain whip or a drift.
http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/SA/driver-bar.jpg

This piece of plate in a vice is also the best way to hold a driver when you need to remove the dust cover to get at the bearings.


3. You have a normal semi-modern SA hub and you've removed the snap-ring, but the cog and/or spacers are corroded in place.

Remove the driver. Set it on a flat surface, splines upward. Find a sturdy piece of pipe or tubing, with an ID larger than the OD of the driver. Slip it over the driver, so it rests on the cog and whack it with a hammer.

by: 209.162.11.59

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   sturmey hubs etc posted by Pete on 2/18/2007 at 3:10:44 PM
Thanks everyone,will be attempting your suggestions tomorrow from the advice given.The links didn't seem to work but I assume this address http://www.hadland.me.uk/samaintind.htm
which I managed to find is the correct one?
Much appreciated Pete.
by: 195.137.87.130

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   sturmey hubs etc posted by Pete on 2/19/2007 at 4:52:22 PM
Problem resolved thanks to all the info you guys provided.
Got the old girl up and running and boy aint it nice to ride, it sails along in stealth mode now and requires hardly any effort on the pedals.Never rode a bike before with a barrel shifter (Sturmey Archer) and was pleasantly surprised in what a joy it is to use.Had a few torments over the last few days with the old bike, had to fit front brake as it was not there,cottored bottom bracket had mismatched bearings and wrong axle with a split cup,rear sprocket stuffed due to chain being badly out of alignment because of wrong axle and various other little things to rectify.But in all honesty I can say that for a bike that is probably nearly a 100 years old it is a joy to ride.I will post up some pics of it soon in the hope that somebody might be able to suggest what make it might be.
Thanks again for the help Pete.
by: 195.137.87.130






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Club Bikes pics posted by: Tom on 2/16/2007 at 4:49:07 PM
It warmed up here in the Canadian winter. I worked in the garage today and took some pics of my Eatons Glider and 1946 Rudge Aero. Both fixed gear bikes. I also have some pics of my wall of Fame. http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m104/oldy57/Club%20Bikes/
by: 142.161.125.168


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Club Bikes pics posted by Warren on 2/16/2007 at 9:48:21 PM
You've got your own museum there Tom. Nice!

Especially the Rudge Aero.
by: 71.7.150.172

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Club Bikes pics posted by Warren on 2/17/2007 at 6:17:59 PM
I also love the GB wingnuts on the Glider...my favourites.

Question, does the rear fixed drum brake give adequate stopping power? I know it's how they used to set them up.
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   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Club Bikes pics posted by Tom on 2/18/2007 at 4:36:07 PM
Warren: I have not tried the fixed gear drum bike yet. I finished the wheels this week. It is still too cold here in Winterpeg for me to ride. I do have a 1980 Sekine 3 speed bike with drum brakes that my son and I rode at the Lake Pepin 3 Speed Tour last year, I bought the bike last year NEW from a bike shop closeout auction. The brakes worked well. The hub on the Eatons Glider is an NOS 1949 so I expect the hub to work well. The Glider is a 1956 that I bought from the original owner. It had 26 x 1 1/4" wheels and now has NOS aero style rims that same size, also the tires are new. It also has NOS Britannia grips and NOS GB wingnuts. The seat is a Bristol Swallow that has been recovered, the original leather is split. The frame was powdercoated and looks great. The bars need a rechrome that is why the red bar tape.
The Rudge Aero was purchased here in Winnipeg from an antique dealer who liquidated the owners home. The original owner said he bought it in Vancouver and rode it to Winnipeg as a fixed gear. He said it was a 1948. I did some searching and found the first year Rudge made the Aero was 1946. In 1947 the name changed to Aero Clubman. I have a 47/48 catalogue and the transfers are Aero Clubman. I would be safe to say this one is a 46. The bike was originally Lustre Orange and some of the original orange still shows on the tubes where clamps were. The fork has a tab on the left side where a lamp bracket goes. I found a lamp bracket on Ebay. The catalogue I got from England has the lamp bracket on the left side also, strange as all British bikes have it on the right side. The catalogue is in GB Pounds for pricing. I did not get the original saddle with the bike, it now has a Bristol like the Brooks B15. The original crank is also gone but now has a Raleigh crank. I need a Williams 3 pin for it. I will leave the bike as is and may never paint it. I will get transfers made, originals will be great for copying as they are good shape. I will ride it a few times this year, but it is hard as the fixed gears are 14/15.
The Swallow saddles are a unique wall display. The top one is the leather cover from the Bristol with a very nice stamp on it. The others are 1 Brooks, 1 Middlemore, 1 Mansfield, 2 Lycett. I will keep on buying them for the display. The pictures on the wall are scans of Frank Pattersons drawings. The large frames have catalogues, 47/48 Rudge, 52 Rudge, prewar Humber, 52 Humber, prewar Dawes. It is a nice collection and that wall is right for the British Bike display.
by: 142.161.127.118

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Club Bikes pics posted by James on 3/15/2007 at 12:08:47 AM
I posted a link to your photos on my "blog" tom. If anyone has any good photos of their lightweights they'd like to add to the list email me.
http://ride-awheelsheffieldsteel.blogspot.com/
by: 71.214.81.242