| Remember that Raleigh Serial Project of about two years ago or so?|
Well, here's an early beta version of the Raleigh serial charts covering 1947-1953, and 1974-1986.
Most of it has been published before, but some of the sections covering 1947-1953 are entirely new, up for the first time ever - they're based on my finds from the serial chart project. Not much to look at, but a start.
If you don't mind twisting your brain for 15 minutes or so, you might want to have a look at it:
Kurt "Long Time No See" K.
| Welcome back, Kurt K.|
Just last week I was thinking of posting a query asking if anything happened to you.
| Yes... I second the motion... Good to see you posting once again. BTW... Was in your neck o the wood three weeks ago to attend a wedding. Yes... during the COLD snap (60 degrees for the high)... and in the Orlando Area the night of the TORNADOES...|
So... perhaps that had you a little pre-occupied? ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Dear Raleigh enthusiasts:|
I am running Raleigh's 2007 Incentive Trip, which is taking place in Palm Springs, California for the next 2 days for the top Independent Bike Dealers here in the U.S., plus top management etc. As part of their prep. documents, I copied the picture of the 1910 ladies bike posted from Yorkshire(minus the caption) and asked them to guess what year etc it was from.
Well, nobody has guessed right so far! All have picked dates much later than 1910 - the earliest said 1926........
This has generated quite a lot of controversy, and I'd like to make some kind of announcement on Sunday night to set the record straight.
Could I ask anyone how you know it's from 1910? And I'd like to get any other info you can on the history. I tried emailing the owner, but it came back undeliverable.
Much appreciated........Paul Kram
| Try at the following address |
Should find what you need
| Wouldn't this be something if he DID date it from those horrid charts - and it turned out to be a machine from the '60s (which has happened more then once on many eBay auctions)?|
When it comes to dating Raleighs, you better have all your facts down, for one can seriously mis-date their machines if they're not completely familiar with the serial charts AND the bike they're dating (and even then that is not enough, at times).
P.S.: Might not be the best idea divulging it's 1910 date on a public internet forum...
| Here's my suggestion. Ask these executives to find this information for you. THEY HAVE FREE RUN ALL THAT IS AND WAS, AND WILL BE- THE COMPANY CALLED: RALEIGH.|
And, If it is not found, then ask them to look up the directories of past employees and get somebody to ring them up or visit and find where this material went to.
Tell them, that millions of fans, former and current owners of Raleigh's awesome, world famous and well loved bicycles would like the real truth when it comes to serial numbers.
Tell then that this subject is driving the vintage bicycle people mad.
Tell them we are polietly asking for some assistance and it is time we get to the bottom of this and resolve this issue.
( Speaking for myself and not the owner of this web site or even for other posters here probably)
It's such a pain in the a**, for us really. We have people ask these questions like: "I have a old Raleigh and it's serial number( whatever) and these poor folks asctually expect an answer from us and we have to reply that we don't have the serial numbers and they are let down.
The whole vintage Raleigh bicycle world is wondering: What happened to Raleigh's information concerning serial numbers.
| I second Chris's motion.|
Mr. Kram, your question really speaks to the bigger question. I have walked out of so many shops because of the lack of knowledge that the owner or workers had on bicycles in general. Sure, everyone can rattle off facts as presented in the latest sales brochures, but there has been a genuine decline in the collective knowledge of bicycle culture out there. Heck, if the shop owners don't preserve the flame, whats left?
Your dealers should already know the best way to date a bicycle. What if someone walked in with an old bike and needed it repaired? How can they fix it if they don't know the most basic facts about it?
Why not invite these dealers to join our discussion group so that we may enrich each other with knowledge that may be useful to us all?
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.....
| Re-reading my previous post, I see I may have been a tad bit harsh in my choice of language. Sorry for that, darned anger management isn't working too well right now.|
I stand by the gist of what I said, just wish I used a little more discretion saying it.
| E- bay item #130083101768 This was not the rear mudguard decal I was expecting. Instead we get a real treat. Sir Walter himself and he's so big!|
Also! Do not fail to see the other auctions he has up right now because you can't miss those awesome Phillips roller skates N.O.S. in the original box.
Who ever guessed that Phillips made roller skates?
I did not know that they made these and what a lovely box!
| Lovely shade of blue, too.|
| I wonder how old they are. The white "tail" present on all the 50s, 60s, 70s I've seen is absent.|
| I realize this is the English Roadster discussion area, but figured someone here might have some info on a German Roadster. It is a large, lugged frame with 26 x 1 3/8 tires. The wheels are marked Shurnam made in Germany. Rear hub is a Torpedo Dreigang (3 speed?). It has been painted head to tail in grey paint, but I removed some paint covering a decal on the seat tube that says FirstClass. Has stepped fenders. Anyone have any info on this beast? Thanks, Gordon.|
| Well, myself I have never heard of the brand of bike but I know the rear hubs very well and I have an extra indicator chain if you need it and it is a 3 speed hub and a very good one. |
| This week I became the trustee of a 57 or more-likely a 58 Raleigh Sports with DynoHub and an SW rear. Each hub has the same date of 10 57 so I think that's enough coincidence to date the bike as a probable 58 or very late 57.|
Astoundingly I can't find even a tad of rust anywhere nor any dings. There are of course the odd paint scratch and a rubbed-off area on the chainguard caused possibly a riders shoe rubbing as the rightside pedal passed through the ten o-clock position. The decals while faded all appear to be intact. The badge literally drips dignity.
It needs all three cables of course as well as the entire indicator / chain assy and a gentleman in Massachusetts has already graciously stepped forward and offered me one of those.
Both front and rear light flicker nicely when I spin the front wheel so that's good.
Assuming the three speeds all work well when we try it out, I only anticipate cosmetic work on it to make it ready for spring. I hand-rubbed two small round spots with rubbing compound, one at the border of black/white on rear mudguard and the other on the front curve of the chainguard. The latent deep gloss in the paint came out very nicely in both tests so a good hand rubbing and then a Meguires waxing is what it'll get.
Pictures at 11
or when the days warm up a bit.
| Remove the rear wheel. Find another matching rear wheel this one being the A.W. 3 speed instead. The S.W. will likely give your problems you don't need. Overall sounds like a very nice bike and I am glad for you. |
| Aha Chris, I'm right up there with you on that one. After reading of the likely problems with the SWs I decided to get a wheel with an AW to use as my daily rider and save the SW'd wheel for show-and-tell events. Not really caring about authenticity for the daily riding it wouldn't have mattered to me what the wheel was so long as it was a 26 X 1-3/8 and hubbed with a reliable AW. Anyway, I bought one today and should receive it late next week. It was sold to me as a Schwinn so I really don't know if I'll receive a generic 590 size or a Schwinn S6 requiring a Schwinn brand tire. Either will be OK for daily use.|