| Sorry to take over the forum here but I'm on the steep part of the curve right now. So, now that I have the brake issue settled I decided the smart thing to do would be to strip the front axle while adjusting the cones. Am I simply SOL or is there a suitable work-around for this? I'm more than happy to install a modern axle/cones if one would fit but I don't have but one to try. Any thoughts other than 'just snug up the locking nuts'??|
| I had a Raleigh axle snap whilst on a 20 mile round trip with a long walk home in the blazing sun, great fun, ha. I found a great replacement at www.oldbiketrader.co.uk.(listed under Raleigh, parts) They aren't the originals, but i've done 3k Miles on the replacement so far, which is pretty good. I think i paid about £5.50 or $10. I bought 2 so that i could carry one with me from then on, just in case it ever happened again. Derek posts internationally, so it should just be a question of mailing him and asking for what you need. Alternatively i'm sure Sheldon Brown could sort you out on your side of the pond. His site has tons of useful info, the pages on wheelbuilding are especially simple and great for when you want to free yourself from the difficulty of paying a shop to do it. He has each component of the three-speed expained in a helpful format, including what threads/sizes and bearings are standard. Hope that helps and best of luck with your renovation. I'm just about at the end of bringing my 1984 Superbe upto spec. I managed to find a pair of new "Simson Skirtguards(similar to the Pashleys), which protect the rear spokes and stop foreign objects(fishing rods and riverside undergrowth in my case) getting caught up in there. I've also found that a solid upgrade for the pedals are the bestselling cup and cone DMR V8 pedals. Plenty of grip and the bearings can be readilly adjusted for perfect running. Hope that helps, Kindest regards, Nick.|
| I have a pair of alloy 26 X 1 1/4 EA1 rims. They are for a 1948 Raleigh Clubman. I want to lace an alloy Sturmey Archer FM hub on the rear and an alloy high flange hub on front. The modern stainless spokes have a longer length between the spoke head and the curve. Can anyone tell me where to find the old style spokes? I was told you can place a washer under the spoke head but I would prefer not to do it that way. Does anyone have any other sugestions?|
| NOS stainless spokes are quite hard to find. If you wanted NOS vintage chrome plated or zinc spokes, I have many different sizes. Good for a show bike. Spoke washers too. Drop me a line.|
warbetty at eastlink.ca
| I regreased the front wheel on the Dunelt, Put in new cones, bearings and adjusted it. The hub itself has wear.|
The Sturmey- Archer steel, plain, common old front wheel spun and spun and spun so nicely no side to side play it was really marvelous.
This is the way it should be.
Serriously, these old English 3 speed bikes are really something. The way the chrome cleans up and shines glittering like new. The way the bearings turn, the way these bounce back to as - new life with just a few hours of work.
This thing is from 1964. That is 43 years ago!
This bike is 43 years old!
I hope to find more of these.
| Yes, they can give super results. I have turned the cones on my drill press while grinding them with my dremmel tool. Ed|
| Is that really true, you can do that? I thought the surface area the bearing hit was hardened, and once the surface was broken they were trash. |
I would love to be able to save some from an old, otherwise all-original bike.
| I don't know and can't comment except that I did run across a shop in England that wanted to re- grind my original Raleigh bottom bracket cups for me and charge me a lot for doing it.|
Rather than re- grind or replace the hubs I chose to devote my life to chasing all over 5 U.S. states and much of Canada plus calling all over the world, letters e.t.c.
Had a lot of fun went mad in the process. You can find N.O.S. whole hubs on e- bay.
| When hub bearing sufaces got gritty, racers on tight budgets would clean out the hub and put toothpaste in it instead. Chuck the axle in a high spped drill and let it fly. Clean and repack with fresh goop and bearings. |
| Hi Warren,|
Yes that sounds right, sort of 'Arm & Hammer', drill method. You could also use FINE valve grinding paste providing you had a thorough clean out after and used, as you said, NEW bearings.
Matthew - bearing up.
| I've been meaning to ask this for ages and your post reminded of it. When the cones or cups are pitted, is it a case of, the hardened surface has been breached and therefore the hub or cone is useless, or are these hardened all the way through and thus may be refinished? How does the pitting happen, is cup pitting the result of mostly damage bearing surfaces? Many thanks, Nick.|
| I am a sad man. I got utterly drenched on my bicylce today, my new (to me) 61 Superbe and I really need to learn how to replace/wear to replace parts for it and clean it up properly. Especially when it gets very wet (thanks edinburgh) can anyone offer general advice, i am a beginner to all of this and I want to learn how to make my bike last in adverse scottish conditions. Also, did the raleigh green superbes come with a black base coat? i can see a black section to mie but there is no way its a resprayed and re transferred job .|
| Yes, Many of the Raleigh bikes had a black base coat. A great deal of them perhaps most all of them. |
| Hi again and sorry to ask but I can't seem to find this anywhere. I purchased a 1963 Raleigh Sports the other day and now am wondering about the brake cables. I realize that they are a specialized double ended cable that is next to impossible to replace but was wondering if there is a work-around for this. Is it possible to use a standard cable and housing with a little clampy-deal on the end? Brakes and safety are a huge concern of mine so I'd like to replace the originals if possible - thanks again. I'll post a picture soon too!|
| Hi Dave, you can still pick up those double (clamp and adjuster) end cables from both Ebay and the usual sites, such as i think, Oldbiketrader or cycles of yesteryear. However, as a fellow brake safety bloke, i got really concerned with the inefficiency of rods and to a certain extent Raleigh standard calipers. I bought a late 1983 Superbe for my father, to replace his earlier rodder. He had a few hairy hill experiences and got me to sell it. His new Superbe has Weinmann 730 calipers, which are vastly superior in both quality and stopping power. I recently bought a mint 84 Superbe in British racing green with 25" frame, but it had rods. This may be sacrilege, but being nostalgic when your under a lorry isn't much help, so i've managed to upgrade the rods with great results. I managed to find a deep drop caliper that is the superior modern dual pivot type, made by Alhonga(as fitted to the current Brompton). I'm not kidding, they are incredible. When you apply the brakes, there's no rocking play at all, which is so common with the Raleigh pressed type. They are in my opinion as close to disks as you need them to be. I've never had a bike that stops so well and the pair of Alhongas only cost 20 pounds for the pair from SJS cycles UK site. The only compatability issue was the fact that my backrack interfered with the rear brake arm, so i just drilled a small brass sheet bracket and shifted the rack mount up enough to clear the caliper arm. They give the bike a really smart look and offer probably just as good braking as any modern performance bike. I'd definitely recommend it, especially if safety is more important than originality. I've kept all the original rod parts, so if i ever want to pass it on, i'll be able to return it to its original state. |
If you also want no more punctures, buy Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres, i've done many thousands of miles on each of my three bikes and only one freak sidewall puncture in about 2 years. They also don't wear down like normal tyres, my original set still looks almost new after thousands of miles.
Hope that helps and best of luck with the upgrades.
Best wishes from England, Nick.
| I just silver braze a spoke nipple onto the cable. Sometimes you have to do a little filing on the inside of the socket of the brake arm to get a perfect fit. Use a round needle file.|
BTW Sturmey Archer shifter cables are easy to make. Just silver braze a short section of 3/32" brass tubing onto a modern "Slick" shifter cable. For a clean look, back at the hub, you can do the same at the adjuster end, instead of the pinch bolt arrangement.
BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. - Minneapolis. MN 55417
Ph. (612) 824-2372 http://bikesmithdesign.com
| Thanks for the replies...I'm already finding that Alhonga brakes are tough to find over here. Mark, I see that you're in Mpls, I'm just out in Hastings. I may give brazing a try, not a bad idea.|
| Re the Alhongas, i believe that SJS cycles(www.sjscycles.co.uk) ship alot of stuff,especially their Thorn bikes, to the States, so if you were after a set, they shouldn't be that costly to ship. Alternatively you could pick up a set of Weinmann 730's, they're also great brakes and can be had very cheaply occasionally on Ebay.|
all the best, Nick.
| 3/32 brass tubing was not so easy to find for me.|
Oh, you go to a model railroad store. If you can find one.
It took awhile, several stores.
What I did was buy some little thingees from Sheldon Brown's site, little nipples that slide onto the brake cable and fasten on with two tiny little hex screws. The nipples seat perfectly into the old-style calipers. With this kind of a set-up you can use s/s cables and fancy teflon lined cable housing, custom sized to your wishes.
Personally I would stay away from any N.O.S. double ended cables. It's the cable housings, they just plain suck. You squeeze on the brake and the housing compresses and your brake doesn't work worth diddly. Plus the cables are way longer than neccesary. Oh, and they rust pretty pretty bad too.
You can make your own gear cables with the brass tube trick. Done it with all of my bikes.
| I have these barrel things that the brake cable goes thru and you tighten a screw that goes in and stops the brake cable. it goes on the end. They are kinda rare. |