| Looking for some parts for an old 69'Raleigh Tourist(DL1). Here's the list: Fenders, chainguard(full(preferably) or hockey stick), Front and Rear wheels, Rear Rack, and Pump. It's sounds like I'd be better off getting a new bike, but until I find one I thought I'd give you guys a shout and see if anyone has some spares lying around or can tell me where to find any of these items. thanks|
| I have a rudge sport womans bike. 3-spd. and it has this generator on the front hub, with a headlight and a tail light. i can't believe it but when you spin the wheel, the lights work!! the rest of the bike is straight, but the rims are rusted out. i do have a set of extra rims that could be used to bring this bike back to riding cond. also has a nice leather seat. ask for pics at email@example.com if interested!! make me an offer, or will part out also..|
| My wife has a bike just like that one (with less rusted rims). Fix up the wheels and get someone on it. Great fun transportation and it's great to have lights (even if they're weak) ready at all times.|
| I replaced my bulbs with these new super-bright LEDs and a bridge rectifier and the difference is astounding. THey are pert near as bright as a car. I recommend this upgrade to everyone.|
The only down side was I needed to replace the cone reflector with a beatup replacement so I could cut a hole big enough for the circuit board I soldered the LEDs on. I'v done this with 4 bikes so far, with 7, 12, 18 and 24 LEDs. Have never had a problem with current.
I've even added rechargable batteries to one bike.
| Provide details on your LED setup, please. Pictures? Diagrams? Parts and sources?|
| You did those mods to a dynohub powered light?|
| Yes, a Dynahub is perfect. You get enough current for about 20 LEDs. I get the LEDs off eBay from some train guy in San Jose. Depending on the rating of the LEDs, I either do one 3.6 volt or two lesser voltage in series. You have to put a resister in line (there are online calculators for figuring out what size, but 100K is close enough...) With the resister and the bridge rectifier, the 6v gets reduced enough to run the 3.6 bulbs. It's all pretty sloppy, but it works. I used 4x 1.5 rechargable AA batteries because I can fit them in where 2 D batteries usually go. LEDS = maybe $2, the resister and rectifier is another $2. THe AA's are $6 at Fry's. I get a system brighter than the $300 scams bike shops sell. some of my bikes I run off just the batteries, so I leave out the bridge rectifier and match the voltage closer to the rating. it's kind of mix and match depending on the light I have, the LEDs I get, and whether I have a generator or not. I did my daughter's bike with an old bottle generator and 20 LEDs (she rides a lot at night at college...) and she says it's fantastically bright.|
I will work on pics and instructions for my site this weekend.
| Hey, loved the site! Nice to meet you. Enjoyed the rudge page.|
| Please do work on this I am looking forward to it as are a lot of folks here. |
Oldroads has gone gangbusters with an ever increasing number of folks who visit this site so there are more folks reading this than you would imagine.
| I have an English Indian three speed bicycle 1952? I need a headlight for it, It says Indian Scout on the yoke name plate.Is the Rudge the same model?|
| The original steel seat post that came with the B.S.A. Paratrooper bicycle is too short. All the other seat posts in my stash did not fit. Seems the B.S.A. is unique there in the seat post department.|
I found that a 26.8 size seat post does fit, but......... it
does not go down in the frame far enough. So It does not exactly fit rather is a bit too large around. Also the post I was using is not long enough.
I went cross town to a shop that to my amazement had a extra long seat post on hand and I bought it.
Now this needs cutting down and the outside surface reduced or sanded down as it were. I am trying to get this altered so it will fit properly. This is a modern alloy post and unless this Joe Breeze seat sandwitch thing works and works well I will be away from my beloved Brooks and onto some other modern seat.
Turns out I had ordered two of the joe breeze seat sandwitch and they were waiting for me there for years and as I bought the post he handed me these and I bought them as well. The angle looks cockeyed and I'll bring it into the shop to see if I'm mounting it wrong. I think with this project I'll wind up on my late moms padded Selle Royal seat. I don't know. Perhaps I can find a alloy or steel post in this size. 26.8
I have to look into this. I am having the threads on a 26 inch wheel Humber double blade fork extended so I can use this in the B.S.A.. The original B.S.A. fork wobbled with what I think is a loose steer tube and rather than have it mended I'm switching forks. It's a poor quality fork in my opinion. The Humber is a stronger fork and will look original to the un educated. The shop will only extend the threads 1 inch because even though it in not a chrome plated steer tube it messes up the expensive tool so i inch is all I get. It won't be enough so I'll be shipping this out to another shop who has the same die to get it really completed. Spent hours on the bottom bracket and have a n.o.s. set in ythere and it is really turning sweetly now but I want to pull it out and go with a cotterless set but don't know what to put in there. Looks like I'll be having 7 inch 44 tooth original Humber steel cranks in the 26 inch wheel bike. The cranks will be 1 inch too long so I am raising the seat. I can't find a handlebar stem long enough. I have set aside the following original parts:
brakes front and rear, original handlebars, brake levers, wheels, front and rear, and now the original fork.
The wheels I had removed and discarded by the seller so I ewould not pay shipping on them. Never even held them.
Original rear hub was a single speed coaster brake.
Not exciting. I feel overall that I am proceding along in this project all half baked. I'm wandering along directionless, and it's running over timewise. Modern baby seats are mounted like a modern rear rack and I want something that goes to the more solid rear axle. 150.00 for the better baby seats and it looks and is cheap plastic. I'm not thrilled and so I am holding off on that.
The rear end of the B.S.A. patratrooper bike has no drilled holes for a rear fender let alone a baby seat. I can drill and tap threads but am relunctant to do so.
Of course all this messing about ruins the value of the bike come re- sell it time on e- bay.
Other folks have modernized the B.S.A. and they don't sell but an original bike with all it's original parts go up to 800.00 or so. 400- 800. in there.
I want to use and enjoy this.
I'm out if it, lost my touch and not the best teacher when it comes to: Hop up your WW2 B.S.A. Paratrooper bike 101 class.
Are seat posts available in straight English 3 speed Raleigh style in this size? I don't even know and here I am trying to devise a way to reduce this alloy post I paid 27.00 for. I have been more inventive and clever before and I feel like I have lost it. Must be stress.
Wheels are Mavic Module 4 with Sturmey Archer F.W. and a plain front hub. I'll keep this updated.
| Yes, I am going nutty. I found a steel seat post in my stash and it fits. The long post is going back to the shop and I was nuts to think about narrowing it down. Wish it were alloy, maybe in the future, for now I am using it. |
This way I can use my Brooks seats and move on to the next part of this project. Funny really, I thought I had checked out every seat post in my collected stash and I had found nothing that was long enough and fit. So I go off trying to find a modern alloy post that fits this bike. I found the web page about the B.S.A. Parabike and will e- mail the fellow my serial number to add mine to the list of bikes. Kind of a regestry.
Will get the fork back this week. Hopefully, they cut enough threads so I won't have to take it to another shop to finish the job. He gave me grief about not wanting to cut threads down far enough. They don't like to do this type of work as it "ruins the tool". Doesn't make sense to me. The fork is not chrome plated at all and especially not on the steer tube. I will be adding a fork thread die to my colection of tools due to this happening.
Fun project just went a bit off course.
| Routing 3 speed and or/ derailer cables is going to be tricky.|
The bike folds in half.
| For sale. One Joe Breeze Seat Sandwhich.|
This makes the modern seat posts able to be used with a Brooks b- 72 or b- 66. saddle. 25.00 plus ship
e- mail at: firstname.lastname@example.org
| original parts in original packaging that does not tell how to assemble it. It tells what brand seat posts you can use with this. Its a bolt and an alloy brace piece that should be steel in my opinion. Anybody ever bust their Joe Breeze seat sandwich?|
Looks like it only works with a double rail b- 66 or b- 72 type clamp. Not with a tripple ( now discontinued) B- 90/3 leather Brooks like I have in my stash.
The B-90/3 is what I want to use on the B.S.A.
Why am I being skittish about using the Joe Breeze seat sandwitch adaptor thing?
I remember no complaints here about the Joe Breeze however this is not mentioned all that much because even though it is a newer product it is not out of the limelight.
Anybody here have a Breeze in use?
I wish I knew a bit of the history of the jOE bREEZE
| I've been using a "seat sandwich" for several years; B-72 with micro-adjust seatposts. Aluminum is fine since it's in compression. You work the aluminum piece in between the pair of wires on each side of the seat's frame. Then you clamp the pairs of wire w/aluminum where the seatpost would normally clamp the single wires on a racing style saddle. The bolts that tighten the clamps may need to be replaced with longer ones, though. It works well and is very solid. It's nice not to have the seat suddenly flip up or down when you hit a big bump! I think they normally sell for $15. See http://www.wallbike.com/clampvssand.html |
| I've been using a seat seat sandwich on a B-72 for some time now. It has worked very well. I believe I got it from Harris.|
| Ok, I have two at $15.00 per adaptor. Plus shipping. email@example.com|
I won't be needing these.
| hey guys. Have not posted in a long time, but still enjoy English Roadsters. Could ya'll chime in and tell me more about this item. Its ebay item# 300097448798 |
Its a magdyno, like the advert says. Magneto and dynamo, completely off topic here because it belongs on something like a Rudge Ulster or BSA Royal Star. Its a motrcycle part.
Matthew - we used to make motorbikes too.