| Hello all,|
I'm looking for a bag to go onto the saddle tabs of my 1956 Raleigh sports. I'm looking for something period appropriate that isn't too costly. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I'm also interested in getting rid of the modern alloy kickstand and putting on something period appropriate. I was thinking of the U shaped kickstand that bolts onto the rear hub bolts like is found in the Pashley Classic range, but don't know where to find something like this.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
| If you had to use a kickstand on a vintage Raleigh, then this is the only appropriate one to use.|
It's designed to fit Raleigh seatstays without damaging them. They are on ebay often for around $20 and worth the extra dollars.
| Are you in the US? This guy seems to always have some cool bags up for sale: |
| Looking for some parts for an old 69'Raleigh Tourist(DL1). Here's the list: Fenders, chainguard(full(preferably) or hockey stick), Front and Rear wheels, Rear Rack, and Pump. It's sounds like I'd be better off getting a new bike, but until I find one I thought I'd give you guys a shout and see if anyone has some spares lying around or can tell me where to find any of these items. Site was down for a while, so I thought I'd repost. thanks for any help you can offer.|
| have you tryed http://www.yellowjersey.org/eastbits.html I think this may work out. Or just buy the whole thing. Cool stuff! Ed|
| I'm not looking for a perfect period correct Raleigh, so I bought one of these bullet lights:|
The light is good and bright with an LED and takes only 1 9 volt, and looks good on my black bike. However, the bracket was crappy and just melted away when I actually rode the bike (it was mounted on the handlebar bracket).
Anyone have an suggestion on how to fashion or where to buy a sturdier bracket? I found this on eBay but the price seems outrageous:
westernsaga at yahoo dot kom
| Galad to see the site is up again.|
| I might be completely wrong on this, but here goes a question to every Raleigh 3-speed owner. I've just built up a new VanSchothorst 26 1 3/8 Stainless Westrick with DT Swiss Competition DB spokes with brass washers, on the original Sturmey front hub. I used an upturned Raleigh Esquire as a truing stand for the initial lacing. Ok, all went well, centred the wheel between the forks, all ok. Transferred wheel for stage of bring up to tension and accurate truing. For this i used a pair of chrome 700c forks with a single rod brake stay clamp with brake shoe for lateral and 6" steel rule banded horizontally to gauge roundness. Got the wheel good and true, but then noticed that it was quite a bit to one side. Scratched head, thought it must have been bent forks on the Raleigh, so re-dished to get it exactly central. After destressing the wheel prior to fitting, i installed it in the 1984 Raleigh Superbe and would you believe it the wheel wasn't in the middle. |
Now i've had my suspicions in the past, as i could insert a finger on one side between tyre and fort stay from the back of the fork, but not the other side. I thought that this can't be right, so i checked my other 4 3-speeds and you guessed it, all the same.
So here is my question, are yours the same, bigger gap on the right , than the left, i.e. the forks are biased to shift the wheel about 5mm to the lefthand side. I've double checked by flipping up the bikes, taking off the front wheel and hanging a pointed weight from exactly half way netween the fork dropouts and predictably, it points about 5mm to one side on the underside of the mudguard.
Is there any reason for this quirk. Is there a practical reason for it?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks, Nick. England.
| I thought at first this was not possible but after checking 5 forks I agree. I made a rough jig to measure this. I guess it is because the Raleigh hubs are adjustable only on the left side. I think that the designer that made this is long gone. We can't ask him. I will have to see if I can ride a no hander on any Raleigh bicycles. I must admit, I don't like raleigh front hubs. If I get a flat on the road I need a cone wrench to make an adjustment. Ed |
| That's good to hear Ed, i thought it was a fluke and i had bought 5 bikes with bent forks. Maybe the fact that the front brake caliper has a bias to one side is the reason, though i doubt it. The odd thing is that the bias is also evident on a 78 Superbe rodder(rod brake model), so the fork blade clamps must be adjusted to allow for the offset. Maybe Sheldon or one of the other boffins could shed light on why this might be an intentional feature?|
Thanks for replying, back to working on the hubs. I managed to pick up 13 NOS AW and AG axles in box with about ten clutches and various other bits for about $12 on Ebay, so i'll be able to overhaul a couple of my workhorses. I found that my 84 Superbe has a longer axle because it has an integral British Racing Green pannier rack that fits over the axle ends. Tried to fit my newly laced 36h AW and the wheel nuts wouldn't go on. Hopefully one of the longer NOS axles will do the trick.
Many thanks, Nick.
| Well I think that people that are published on the web have great ideas BUT they don't have the final word. In other words I would like to think that the original designers knew everything. I was told by a certain well written author that a Raleigh Twenty could use a 7 series(57mm) square taper spindle. The Twenty used a 21GC (61mm). I don't think he was able to do this. The forks are a unusual design. I think we must be on the right track but I would like to hear from someone in Nottingham. Ebay is a super source of parts for old bicycles. Cheers to your purchase!|