| As a proud owner of a Dursley Pedersen, I'd say it is 'teens vintage, badly rusted, and the seat post is bent. Might be junk. A closeup of the headbadge would help identify its vintage. I'd like to have the saddle alone.|
| Any chance of seeing a pic of your Dursley Pedersen?|
| Would love to, but how do you load a pix on my desktop onto this forum? The Add a Picture feature doesn't work. I have a iMac G5 but am not very computer savvy.|
| I suspect that the bars and stem could fetch a pretty sum for an early track bike too.|
| Have a look at what just turned up on ebay Item number: 140118262676 It's just a few miles up the road from me.I don't think the seller knows what he has there....but the bidders seem to have found it despite his very bad description.Shame really I would like that in my shed.|
| Wow. That's amazing.... I think you would need a chinguard on the top of the gooseneck in order to get on the drops properly.|
Thanks for sharing that with us. Truly unique!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| That would be a Dursley Pedersen. A very prolific manufacturer dating back to the 1800's. Could be valuable.|
| Always wanted one of these beauties with their unique look but for sure it will make far too much money for me to have a chance at owning it.If you like these take a look here http://www.dursley-pedersen.net/index.html for a wealth of info and pics.Shame the headbadge shot isnt clearer on ebay so you could get a rough idea of its age.Although its headbadge would suggest it is not a really early one.|
| Man, this is one ugly Robin Hood badge! It's from Malaysia and I think it's a poorly done copy. Except........ because it's from Malasia and could be genuine from Raleigh's factory there. Perhaps it's different to distinguish it from the Nottingham versions? Perhaps after Raleigh sold the factory there the new owners made Robin Hoods after they bought the factory?|
Never seen before.
E- bay item # 170110076843 Vintage bicycle head badge Robin Hood.
The character's face looks squirrly, shifty, no class. Note the words Robin Hood stamped into the alloy.
Icky, but interesting.
Can't help think of John Cleese's performance of Robin Hood in the movie: Time Bandits.
"Would you like to stay on and help us with our work? There's still so much wealth to re-distribute!"
| Is that a powderhorn hanging from his shoulder? :-?|
Icky... yeah.... but the image is sufficient enough to cut and paste and print on to a suitable substrate....
Not that I would do it.... It is... I dunno.... I guess the word that comes to mind is wrong.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I don't think he's an imposter at all! I just looked at the badge on my Robin Hood who has the same sneaky look. That badge is really one of the best ones.|
| There are two badges then. I have an Robin Hood badge and he's more handsome and debonaire than this bum.|
| I checked back with the Au. company that made the Alum.sturmey archer brake hubs(clones)These were expermintal hubs---CNCed from billet Alum and a steel brake lined pressed in.I asked if they also made the larger brakehub size to fir the dymo---alast---they didn't make any larger drums and they no longer make these--their trial run in bicycle parts didn't turn out so they returned to making motorcycle parts.---sam|
| You are aware that Taiwan SA is now producing drum brake Dynohubs? I haven't seen one but it seems like a terrific idea.|
| I did this over the weekend with my Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. 28 inch rod brake bike and this will work with ALL Raleigh's that were made in Nottingham, England.|
Removing the Nottingham, England Raleigh bottom bracket fixed cup?
Want a cheap and effective solution? Without ordering a tool?
Go to the hardware store. Get a .88 cent carriage bolt and two nuts. Remove the adjustable cup and spindle and loose ball bearings. Slide in the bolt with one nut screwed down onto the carriage bolt. Now with the threaded bolt sticking thru the fixed cup hole on the outside screw on the other nut. Tighten it as tight as you can.
Now turn. Yes! It's moving.
Now, step two:
This sounds weird but bear with me. I did need to go to 2 more hardware stores looking for a bolt and two more nuts because it was necessary to find a bolt with threadings that ran the opposite way. They did not have it.
So...... I went to the auto parts store and now this is the breakthru! GO TO THE AUTO PARTS STORE.... I found a car wheel stud with A RIGHT HAND THREAD and two copper colored lug nuts. I slid the one lug nut over the stud and shoved that thru the hole in the fixed cup.- Then took the other copper colored lug nut and tighten it down.
It turned the other way. Now I had moved it one way with the carriage bolt and the other way with the hardened- tougher - as all heck, car- type- wheel stud... and two copper colored lug nuts.
It came out. I was able to use either a common Sears crescent wrench and then, the ratchet which was easier still.
It came out. I then proceeded to install a new Raleigh bottom bracket fixed cup!
I put in new bearings, grease and a new spindle. It is total perfection!
To remove the cup I used one bolt set, to tighten it, the other. I can't remember what bolt I ended up using to remove it. I think it was the car type stud and two lug nuts. I worked on bikes for 7 hours after dropping off my daughter and looking her mom's new boyfriend, possible new husband? in the eye and it did a number on me and now I can't remember what bolt did the loosening.
So you'll have to help solve the mystery.
The fun part? Removing the one nut that has scrapes on it and keeping it. Returned BOTH sets of nuts and bolts to the store for a 80% refund!
| Fear not. I did not break the galvanized carriage bolt. But I suggest you find a more hardened bolt to use in place of the carriage bolt. Once again, go to the auto parts store for BOTH BOLTS AND NUTS.|
The second car type stud and 2 lug nuts.... (for the 3 parts, it was $3.44) So this is a cheap solution. You can remove even the hardest cups with these. Long wrenches and long handled ratchets give you the all important leverage you need to remove these fixed cups.
These nuts that tighten in the inside do not affect the section of the inside of the fixed cups so the precious bearing race section that you use is not affected. What I am saying is....You can re- use the cup if you need to after removing them in this way. However, after removing it you won't need/ want to re- use it anyways. Not after seeing that ring of wear and possble pitting of the cup race.
The difficulty is finding original parts. Went thru the flames of hades to find this N.O.S fixed cup.
Spindle, and adjustable cups too.
It was worth it. Especially that fixed cup that takes the strain and pressure of the crank chain side.
Caged bearings are easier to install, but.....
A caged bearing has 8 balls in the cage.
Loose balls are better because there are 11 bearings in there instead of 8. The difference is, The spindle will wobble back and forth and you'll feel that when riding and the wobble-ing is not acceptable. The wobble will lead to premature wear.
So go with loose balls as Raleigh recommended years back.
11 per cup
These are 1/4 size. I use green Phil Wood grease.
Funny thing however, with the caged bearings.... It turned more sweetly (and more noisily too) than with the proper 11 loose bearings as we are supposed to use.
I have had caged bearings break metal and especially the plastic cage type caged bearings.
The trick is the final adjusting. Get it just right, a tiny tap here and there with a cold chisel. Be careful, find the just right perfect spot and then carefully hold it in place.
You should be able to balance it and have it keep turning over and over in rotation and counter rotation with the pedals acting like a pendulum on an old clock. Turning and turning and turning after you set it in motion.
I sat there and watched it turn and turn and I sipped coffee and watched it turn.
Then, a new chain, properly oiled, no tight spots.
With a chainring that is not bent, warped, so there you have no alternate tightening and loose and tight and loose chain activity.
I hate that.
Now onto the rear hub. If you have all the bearings and cones replaced. Have the whole hub in perfect, slowly set, perfect adjustment and oiled it.
You'll have the best smoothest, set up drive train.
new tires, did you find high pressure tires? Alloy rims?
We are about ready to ride. If....... you have checked off all these steps.
There are a lot of things to do and consider before you should take the bike out to ride it.
As far as Mom's new boyfriend? I'm afraid she's welded him in permanently, now. Or he's factory fitted and anyways he's not going to be removable.
Don't know what tool to use there!
She's installed inferior parts!
To my horror, pain and suffering.
Ah, sometimes in life we have to find a new frame set don't we?
Don't want to ride this one again anyways. It would never again handle as nice as it did before.
A good bike should not be ever shared and a bad one never bought, rented or ridden in the first place.
Get out there and enjoy life in the parks, trails,and cycle paths with somebody you love and with somebody who loves you.
Don't be afraid to pick yourself up, pick the gravel out of your knees, bandage yourself up and get back up onto the bike and start over again.
Something marvelous is around the corner and she or maybe in your case, he is waiting for you.
| Go get 'em Chris!!|
Loved the ingenuity of your solution. And I couldn't agree more about your parallels between bikes and life.
| To remove the fixed cup I used the car wheel stud and the two copper colored lug nuts.|
Did it again last night. That's three in one week.