| How many teeth, how high a number of teeth can you put on a Sturmey- Archer A.W. 3 speed hub before you destroy the hub?|
I have a 28 tooth derailer cluster mounted on a old school Sturmey- Archer threaded driver. This is the Basic 3 speed hub.
I thought 24 was the limit. I'm beyond this with 28.
It's a 28 inch wheel bike with a 44 tooth front Raleigh (now) chainring with a 28 tooth rear. 3 speed A.W.
My guess is that it will NOT hold up and that I'll destroy the clutch key and wreck the hub.
What is the highest number of teeth you fellows have in use with the A.W?
| I use 25t or 26t on all my SA hubs except the ones that have small wheels or small chainrings. My theory is that anyone who needs big cogs is not going to stress the internals as much as a strong rider using 22t. |
BTW all my hubs are S5s or FWs. Suposedly AWs are even tougher.
BTW2 If you shift properly there should be no increased load on the clutch key due to lower gearing.
| I have been using the SRAM 24 tooth cog on my 4 3-speed|
commuters since 1999. I have 7500 miles on my Robin Hood.
5700 miles on my Peugeot, 6400 miles on my Huffy with its
Shimano 333 hub. So far, no problems with my rear hubs.
| Sturmey advise no more than half of the front( i.e. 23/46 or 22/44), due to excessive torque which can throw the clutch from its seating and damage the pawls/pins. As you say though, from experience it looks like they can handle more, as long as you tend to take it easy and not stand-up and peddle. I sit on all gradients, so i've never had an issue, appart from the time the lefthand cone came out of adjustment and the AG started to mysteriously slip regardless of the chain setting. I've found that the biggest problem with 22t-26t is that the chain needs to be quite a bit longer and i never like to have the axle sitting too far forward in the dropouts. I find an 18t to be a perfect balance for quite hilly terrain, almost enough topend(30mph top speed) and not too hard on the steep inclines. I'm planning on trying a 14t to see if i can break the 40mph barrier on my just finished Raleigh Superbe.|
Hope that helps,
| Thank You all. I will run the 28 tooth rear cluster and report what happens. I have a 24 tooth cog on hand with another set of internals as the back up.|
I remember trashing a hub one time because I over loaded it. The clutch key broke in half. I don't remember the gearing ratio in use at the time. Don't remember if it happened while shifting or not.
I have 14 and 16 tooth cogs and will never use them.
| You are correct about having to lengthen the chain by 2 links otherwise the rear wheel will be too far forward in|
the dropouts. I live at the top of a good sized hill hence
my desire for the lowest gears possible. I do not stand up
on hills, my cycling style is somewhat sedate hence no
problems with my AW hubs.
| I've also just finished cleaning up a 1969 Superbe. It's green with a Prestube Minor rack, 70psi tires, B72 seat, but no lighting system. Got a key for it though!8^)|
I'd like to have a higher 1st gear, though, because I only ride it locally on the valley floor. Does anyone know where I can find a smaller sprocket than 18T and/or bigger chainring than 48T?
Has anyone heard of a Peacock? I had been waiting to bid on one on Ebay and the guy that owns it says it was stolen from his shop. He'd still like to know if he lost anything of value. I, myself, have never heard of a brand or model going by the name of Peacock. It was item #330113097223
thanks for any information you can offer.
| Interesting... chrome frame, I presume. From the looks of the front fork and rear fender stay mount location, I would say this is a Raleigh built machine.|
As to age and actual value, age may be tough to determine.... as well as value. A chrome frame, I'm sure, always is desireable as they are none too common.
Sorry to hear it's gone missing.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I know this is English Roadster forum, but thought people knowledgeable about them might know something about the Rebeneick Special I just purchased. 28" Weinnman inox 18/10 wheels (stainless steel?), 3 speed coaster brake Sachs Torpedo (black plastic shifter) Altenberger Synchron front caliper brake, Edelstahl chrome fenders, generator powered fr/rear lights, and rear carrier. Rides like a dream! Anyone know about when this was made and where it stood in their lineup? I know the company made motorcycles, but would like to know more about the bicycle. Thanks. john |
| Typo,,,,ment to say Rabeneick, thanks. john|
| I sold them. That's why they are not in the stash when I go to use and enjoy them.|
G.B. alloy wing nuts
front and rear Sturmey- Archer wingnuts
really good Dunlop rims
My 28' Ashby rear rack with the fold down drop stand.
Despite another bike, the collection is still at a fairly reasonable number not like the good old days.
| Another 1972 Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. is added to the stash. Those original, mint Sempret Raleigh Roadster tires inflated hard and my memory of how sweet this bike is was what did it.|
The poor thing had a 16 tooth cog, chain was rusted and stretched too tight.
Knackered bent front axle.Front hub cones with pitts. It was a shame about the front axle, because it was a long one. One bent spoke in the front wheel.Wheel chrome is 70's vintage and while usable, is shoddy. Needs a handlebar grip. New cable stopper because the old one is plastic and is thus broken. Needs end of gear cable snipped off and whle at it, a new cable as the original is rusted in spots. No reflector was on the rear fender so I pulled one out of the stash. Front fender has minor rust. Degumped bottom bracket, replaced the parts anyways. Replaced headset, cups, spindle, added a longer seat post, Removed shop plastic label even though the bike has come back to the area I live in. Hey! I got happy with the brake parts cleaner. Excellent for the bottom bracket cups this stuff is, spray it in and wiggle your finger across the inside of the fixed cup and then you can decide to use it or replace it. Another 3 speed hub with a long axle and parts showing little wear but I won't use the innards because I'm slipping in a 4 speed and will use a cyclo converter piece I got for $5.00. These things go for $35.00 and up.
It's a 24 inch frame and with a B- 66. While a pal looked it over and lowballed un- successfully I threw restraint out the window and got it for $135.00. Like I said, It was those Sempret tires. LOVE THOSE TIRES!
Replaced a lamp braket that has pitting. Resisted the urge to put in a Humber fork and will stay with the orignal fork. However I have a 1930's Humber crank in it now because it's a 44 tooth and the original Raleigh crank was 48 tooth. Too big. In have other cranks nicer, older and with these the Raleigh Heron has eyes and these are mint tooth ones and I won't use them because 48 tooth is too large. Don't have anything smaller or I'd use it. Want to find a T.A. Specialities crank set like that one D.L.1. we all saw awhile back on e- bay. Went from 6 1/2 to 7 inch. It's a 24 inch frame so I'm ok. Longer crank arms were a problem but I have them in the stash. Reamed out the pedal threads with my WALD thread die.(Cleaned out the threads)
Yea! The front rim is a 32 hole and I have new 32 hole front hubs So a new hub will be in use! Sweet bearings after a degump and with new grease? WOW!
All new cups, cones, hubs, bearings, cable, brake pads. So this will ride like a dream. I'm going to ride this one.
Original tubes with the metal inflator valves, sorry but they'll get replaced with new tubes with presta valves as the presta valve holds air better. Have yet to polish it. The strange thing is, with the Tourist D.L.1 I prefer the ladies frame bike over the mens frame bike but it's good that it's a men's model frame because they are more valuable. And I'm a fellow and a fellow should be on a Gent's model bike anyways and so, I soon will be.
I hate the angle of the original Raleigh rod brake 1970's version handlebars and I'm looking thru my stash to swich these out to another set. Can't remove the pedal out of the chainwheel crank side to save my soul. It's stuck. Said: "forget it!" and added another pedal.
No enclosed chain guard hockey stick instead and that's why the chain was rusted. The frame and backstay and fork is in good appearence and it's a 24 inch frame.
Rides like a old school Cadillac. This rode like a dream before the overhaul! I love the big thick old handlebar grips and now that I'm going back to original Dare grips My fingers are missing the other grips. All the good grips are on other bikes.
I'll add lights, a bell, a rear rack, reflectors,It'll be kitted out with a lock, too.
These turn heads, they'll be comments and a good many conversations started because of this bike. I will lock it and keep it indoors at every oportunity. Finding these in the trash is part of the "good old days" now long gone.
For $135.00 I can re- sell it, people will ask but It's staying with me. These handle too smoothly, too graceful and it's too joyful to own.
| Plastic pully wheel on this. Not for long! I can't stand these plastic parts like cable stopper things and plastic pully wheels. Do you know what happens with plastic parts? They break and cause you misery out in the middle of nowhere!|
| I hear ya on the plastic bits... consider this... one of the "Velo-Heads" at work... an avid and rather talented road racer, recently brought in his latest machine. It is ENTIRELY made of plastic... Carbon Fibre frame and all... though I think such things as bearings and cogs and such are metallic....|
I was shocked... $6000 for this thing... and he still had to spend another $250 on PEDALS.
To put my paradigm in perspective.... I paid $175 for my first CAR.
Now... I wonder... will his machine be around 34 years later? My 1974 DL-1 aint broken yet. ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Words cannot describe how sweet the steering is now. 1950's vintage headset, old Raleigh Quality hard as nails steel, fresh Phil Wood grease, shiny new ball bearings.|
Still playing around with the rear hub.