| With loads of bikes in the shed and having spent many hours/days/weeks working on various bikes to make them rideable and or prettier and always striving to make the bike you are currently envolved with ride as quietly and judder free as possible it has become apparent that I need to learn how to build my own wheels,especially after a recent bad experience with some so called expert who built a wheel for me and supposedly rebuilt the 1934 k series hub.Profanity would be abundant if I had to describe my feelings for this XXXXXX after picking up the wheel fresh from this bodging monkey and his bullxxxx.I don't mind spending money on something old to preserve it or make it better or more useable but to have some xxxx stand there and tell you how good he is and what a good job he has done only to find out later on during reassembly that he has done nothing or very little and lied about the components he has changed/replaced/repaired etc really gets up my nose.I guess as always the only person you can trust is yourself..Hence my need to find out how to do it myself and leave those money grabbing bullxxxxxxxx alone.What I need to know is how and where do I start to teach myself or learn the art of wheelbuilding?|
Pete...with wobbly wheel and stiff/grinding SA hub...GRR!
| I bought a bike years ago and was told by the seller that he took it into the shop with a Sturmey- Archer F.C. 4 speed and it came out with an A.W. 3 speed. They re-built the wheel with another hub and kept his hub and then they denied at all. Told him he came in with the A.W.! |
| Hi Pete,|
did you know that AW interna;s will fit you K series and no one will know?
Matthew - not as slick as 3 in 1
| Now there's something to think about.....|
| K series will fit that's true. But the K series is a better set of internals. Stronger and longer lasting.|
Yes, I noticed that when I tried to thread A.W. parts into a blacked out (japanned) K series hub shell.
| Tony Hadland's site, you can download the official S.A./Raleigh guide,(circa 1950's) instructions, and all the relevant spoke length charts. Might find one or two good wheel building books as well, but the S.A guide should get you going. |
I built my own 26" rear wheel with an FG hub using the instructions.
You can also get instructions on mostif not all S.A. hubs from Hadland's site too.
| Check out Sheldon's site. It's full of useful info and links. I've built several wheels following his instructions.|
Also, find a bike repair manual. I have an old Glenn's and it has wheel info, SA repair info, etc.
| Me too. I'm ashamed I never settled down long enough to learn wheelbuilding. I've wasted a fortune on wheelbuilding labor. All those 28' d.l.1 Raleigh wheels converted to D.T. SWISS stainless steel spokes added up. I trusted the oil change folks to do my tune up. They took my money and never lifted my hood. Wound up stranded and in the dealership who asked why I was not doing my tune ups. "Oh, but I did" "No! you have not!" |
| Getting a bit tired of seeing folks say that the bike has been completely refurbished.|
I'm sorry but new bearings and a clean up and a new set of tires and tubes don't cut it.
Did they replace the bottom bracket set? both cups and a spindle? headset? true wheels? how about a new front hub? that way we know the wheel has had attention to it recently.
run your fingers across that wheel and plick the spokes like playing a harp. Chances are you'll find at least one usually two that is really loose and wobbles back and forth. Look and then frown and hand them the wheel.
Rear hub? just a wipe off and a shot of oil or was it totally re-built with all new cups and cones and how about the pawl springs? Were they replaced? One of the things you do when going into a Sturmey- Archer 3 speed is to replace the pawl springs. There are a whole lot of things to replace outright in the Sturmey- Archer hub.
Brake cables? Brake blocks? Have the rims been kissing kerbs?
How about the rim strip? Silly until it fails and the tube comes into contact with spokes that protrude thru the spoke head.
The bike is supposed to glide. As you ride it is supposed to be and look effortless. Jump onto those pedals and with a quiet and subtle click, off you go. Whoosh!
You should be able to take your hands off of the handlebars and loll along without having to course correct.
Buying a used bike? Where are the tools? That can of Sturmey- Archer cycle oil is supposed to be visable on the shelf.
Where is the stash of old parts still new in boxes? That is supposed to be thrown in with the deal. I want it all, complete.
He say's to me:
"Chris, dude. Dude. Look at your wheel! (The wheel goes back and forth in a hypnotic, swaying sashaying rythmitic wobble that say's: This rim is toast, this rim is toast, this rim is toast. Rubbing the brakes too. A tighten here, there but it won't be true and is no way to run the bike.
Replace the rim!
Refurbished? First question is: How did you remove that fixed cup?
Fixed what? will be the answer.
| I've got brake rubbing on my tires I think, because the rims have rust, though I've already gotten ride of most of the rust. |
| I see a lot of bikes with the handlebar stems raised too far. I wonder how many folks have had the handlebar and stem come clean out of the bike?|
Most of the stems that came with the bike as original equipment are not long enough. People get determined to just raise it and not go into a shop with the bike to tackle the problem and they don't want to hear that the stem is up too high. I hear: ok, it'll be fine and then they raise it up to far and go ride the thing. A fellow who's bike I worked on, insists on using these aweful stems that don't fit properly. Both of his bikes have these replacement stems in the bikes.
People use what is on hand. Ramming Schwinn stems into English forks.
We need a good quality long stem that will accept the old original steel (and/ or) alloy handlebars of years past. With a nice long quill and inner bolt and wedge piece.
With no cheap crappy welding with chrome that flakes off.
| Thumbs Up!|
| Anyone found a supplier yet for Sunbeam brake blocks?|
Or if we are all doomed to have to make them what has anybody found that is available to reproduce them with?
| Sunbeam brake blocks are I am led to believe unique to Sunbeam.I'll post up a pic soon and you'll see what I mean.|
Be easier than trying to explain the difference.
Pete....Hoping to be stopping shortly.
| Go to www.ciderheadz1.f2s.com/brakeblocks to see the difference in design from the normal type brake blocks.|
Pete.......will stop soon
| Pete,you wouldn't happen to have an old one would you?To use as a pattern--sam|
| Hi Sam, I bought a Sunbeam the other day for a mate.The previous owner gave me 2 brand new brake blocks with the bike from a whole boxful he had.Unfortunately he only had front ones.I assume the backs would be different.The new blocks have gone too hard to use through age but will make fantastic templates and will assist in making the rears with what is left of the old ones still on the bike.I can take pictures with dimensions if you like or let you borrow the originals after I have made some.(still looking for some suitable material to make them with) If you would like a pair of fronts for yourself let me know and I will ring the old chap and see if he will post me a pair.Just drop me a line and I'll see what I can do.|
| I have a lot of rod brake blocks. What distinguishes the Sunbeam ones?|
| The longest axle on the Sturmey- Archer A.W. is only so long and I'm sticking a Huret derailer on this to operate the shifting action with this $5.00 cyclo cog that goes for $50.00 and here I have to contend with these loop type alloy wire type rear fender stays that are supposed to go onto the rear axle as well! It's going to be an issue, I think!|
No way to do things. I am amazed at Raleigh for actually having these loop ended wire fender stays attach to the rear hub axle. Crazy thing is, it worked but other versions had it as a flat rod that went to the bolt on back stay and those are far nicer, more cleaner. Still I like the wire stays that can be bent to keep the fender off of the front or rear wheels.
$38.00 to fill up a Honda Civic? 6.50 for coffee? $4.00 for a plastic jar of Hellmans mayo? This rising gas situation is taking a toll! Groceries are way higher everything is trucked in.
| Hmmm.... just a thought here.... As I recall, the stays (I'm presuming it's a DL-1 type of machine) are quite robust, no? Possible to trim off the loops, and forge the end of the wire flat... making it wide enough to drill a wee hole through... and make a similar hole in the drops and affix it thusly to the rear of the machine?|
As for fuel prices... it's frustrating. This AM it is 38 degrees here.... to cold for the motorbike.... Alas, I will have to burn $10 worth of fuel vs. $5... just to get to work and back.
Soon... It may be cheaper to book a room in-town where I work... and just come home on weekends... :-S
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Yes, a 28 inch D.L.1.Tourist rod brake bike. Something will have to be done. Renting a room closer to where you work is a good idea.|
| Can you cut off the existing loop and make another one to fit to the bolt hole in the stay? You could flatten that loop if it looks better.|
| Maybe something along these lines:|
Or make a set from Stanless steel welding rod to fit the stay.Braze on a boss,or drill a hole in the stay and use a thread in bottle boss.????---sam