| I am selling a set of new Raleigh Bottom bracket cups ebay item # 300131616163 . Do you think I am asking too much for them? I can't find new ones anywhere else. Ed|
| I keep my new, original spare bottom bracket cups in the safe vault at the bank. Really.|
No, $35.00 is about right.
Are these original Raleigh parts? Are they from Raleigh marked boxes or are they something else?
Reason I ask is....
Your adjustable cup looks fine on the outside but, The ORIGINAL Raleigh fixed cups were not shiny silver-ish in color but rather black in color, non- chromed, and definitly not silvery colored as is the other cup you show us in your picture is.
I take it the one that shows the inside of the cup is the fixed one?
After years of hunting these down, all the shops I have visited and back rooms seen and drawers opened and parts collected and compared, removing old ones and installing new ones I have been all through this and know original Raleigh from aftermarket cups.
One can do this with 24 t.p.i. Phillips and B.S.A.
it's much easier.
No, if one cup was black, and the other silverish I'd go for it.
We need to see the insides of both cups and as I have said, one is silver for adjustable the other black/ greyish steel for fixed.
If anybody gets funky and asks if you have any lock rings don't sweat it. They can re- use their old ones even if they are knicked up and the lock ring is nowhere as difficult to find.
So right now I am not sure if you are offering a complete original set.
I would think that if these were really original that you'd have sold out by now.
| I agree Chris, these cups are a newer product. Ed I'm not trying to rain on your auction parade but old english cups from the 50's and 60's were ususally such superior steel to modern cups that I'd rather have old ones. $35 is what I like to pay for the whole bike. But the market will speak and you'll have your answer.|
| I am astounded that the machinery that made these parts specifically, these bottom bracket fixed cups|
was not moved, preserved and kept in operation so somebody presumably raleigh could not make and sell an essential part for the billions of bicycles out there that need these parts.
| After my last adventure with my Superbe in the fall of '06 I had bent my chainwheel. Thanks to Warren, I've installed a new one and got the machine up and running again, for a while..... |
Got everything tickety-boo and then one particularly normal day last week took the bike out for a drive. When I applied light pressure on the front brake, I knew something was wrong. The front brake was a find, an early '30's drum brake, lovingly restored, re-lined, re-chromed and re-laced to the original 32 spoke rim. Seems the pocket that holds down the brake arm was loose, and when I applied my brake, the arm jumped out of it's pocket and mashed up the fork. At first inspection all seemed O.K., a little scraped paint, the braze-on tab for the fender was bent, but I figured I could live with it. I soon discovered I can't ride "no-hands", and the bike pulls strongly to the left when I attempt to do so. There is a specialist in town who has a jig to re-straighten forks, and my forks, being hi-grade gas-pipe can probably be tweaked with no side effects, cost is around $25. It's not the $25 that bugs me, it's that I thought I had laid all the ghosts to rest after my last accident when I took apart and rebuilt the FG hub, went through the hassle of getting another chainwheel, fitting it, and tweaking the chaincase for a minimum amount of noise. Now I gotta take the fork out, and while I'm doing that I might as well replace the cables for the front brake, overhaul the front hub, and mess around with the lock. I must have dis-lodged one of the wafers when I replaced the lock after painting, because I can't lock the bike and take out the key, --I can lock the front fork with the key in, which is very handy when working on the bike when it's in a stand.
What really gets to me, is that the bike probably never had so much TLC before I laid my grubby paws on it, my guesstimate was that is was ridden hard and put away wet for almost 20 years, then garaged for another 20 withouta any work being done to it. Upon purchasing the bike it was a royal mess, burried under 2 coats of Canadian Tire's finest silver spray paint, and every bearing and race siezed up and plugged with dehydrated grease.
When will I ever get a few years peace and quiet with my bike?
| I need to adjust the upper headset bearings on my Raleigh Sports - actually the cone nut. My biggest wrench will fit the lock nut, but at 1.62 inches (41.3 mm), the cone nut ss too big for my biggest wrench. I'd hate to have to buy a giant $40 crescent wrench just to adjust the bearings. Any suggestions?|
| Mark I use an old fashioned 11 in. "monkey wrench" or auto wrench. Different than a Crescent in that the opening is adjustable vertically as opposed to horizontally. Similar to a pipe wrench but not sloppy and no teeth. Lots on Ebay but very cheap and plentiful at your flea market. Just make sure they haven't been banged with a hammer. The opening is as big as you want but limited by the width of the jaw. Ted|
| I got a Park 40mm headset wrench and filed out the opening a little to the appr 41mm needed for the Raleigh adjustable race. I'm pretty sure the Raleigh multi-tools that turn up on ebay also include that size.|
| Actually, No. The Raleigh multi tools that show up on e- bay do not accomadate the laege screwed top headset ball bearing race cup.|
They fit the top nut that goes on top of that not the larger screwed race we are mentioning.
Now, if you keep looking on e- bay, in about 1 years time you might find an older Raleigh/ sturmey- Archer tool that may have this but I doubt it.
File the Park tools wrench so it's large enough to fit it.
I use a channel locks with a rubber jar opener over the screwed race nut. Myself.
Finding original, new, never used actual parts is even more difficult than getting it right with tools.
| I saw a bike cross the crosswalk today and it was a Specialized Mountain bike in green.|
It was not just any old green either, but it was Raleigh Lenton green paint.
Not 100% on the spot, but close enough to use.
Fit enough to start painting bikes in this color.
The other colors may be out there as well.
Now, we just need decals and LLoyds has a great selection.
| OK, I am now lowering my prices on these cycles if anyone is interested.|
Raleigh DL-1: '72 hub, retrofitted to pre-war specs, includes full chaincase, WWII era headlamp, B-33 saddle, etc.
$400 or best offer (local pickup preferred)
Sunbeam '31 roadster on 26" wheels with rare K2 hub, in restored condition, everything nice except a bit of corrosion on rims
$500 or best offer (local pickup preferred)
E-mail me asap if interested before I list these on e-bay.
thanks for looking
| My e-mail address is email@example.com|
| If you prefer local pickup, it might be good to state where you are. |