| While I spin my wheels others are doing it!|
There was a totally georgeous Sturmey- Archer t shirt on e- bay the other day.
Perfect shade of yellow!
Oh, I want one!
Wonder if they have them in extra large?
keep an eye on this guy!
| No such thing currently exists in my collection so why am I dreaming about it?|
Yes I was dreaming last night.
5 speed Sturmey Archer S- 5 2 in a Raleigh Twenty or shopper type bike that folds. Kind of a weird mix, like a custom job?
Usually, if I fall asleep reading something bike related sometimes I dream bike related dreams but not lately.
| Seems like I'm livin' your dream.|
Only better, because mine has the S5 hub. A spring between the bellcrank lever arm and the adjuster eliminates the baulky shifting the less efficient S5/1 and S5/2 were designed to cure. I have another Sun Rhyno Lite for the front wheel. Just need time to lace it up.
My dream is to find time to finish my 1958 Raleigh Record Ace Moderne. One of the last Sturmey hubbed race bikes, it came with an FM.
| Just bought a Sunbeam of unknown year off of you guessed it ebay. The SA AW hub does not have a 2 digit number but it does have a 6. Does this indicate it to be a 66 or a 76? My guess would be older than 70s but it was sold as early 70s bike. Does it mean something else altogether? Also, the bike has AMF stickers on the downtube. I know that they sold Hercules bikes but this is a Sunbeam. Does anyone have any info on these bikes? |
| Raleigh merged with the British Cycle Corporation and Sunbeam was part of that. The result was the Sunbeam bike name became part of Raleigh and Raleigh made B- grade bikes with the Sunbeam name on them. The bike is a Raleigh with Raleigh parts.|
We hear of A.M.F. Hercules but A.M.F. Sunbeam? Yes, Why not?
A.M.F. and Hercules were also part of the leftovers made into stew. It's still a Raleigh. Fix it up, ride and enjoy it.
Do you need anything for the bike? if so, tell us.
we have a great bunch here, even a first rate machinist named Mark Stonich who has made a tool to remove the fixed and adjustable bottom bracket cups!
| Thanks for the info Chris. I am mechanically challenged and am glad that you guys are here to help. I'm sure that I can learn a great deal from you all. |
Thankfully the bike is in good condition and rides very well. I will however need to raise the handlebars and seat a bit to make it more comfortable. Now for my first stupid question. What do I need to do to raise the handlebars? I tried to raise them yesterday but they did not budge and I did not want to force it. I used an adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt on the stem then attempted to pull them up. Do I need to loosen the headset as well? I told you this was a stupid question. Thanks
| The bolt threads thru a wedge inside the stem. You need to drive the wedge down and out of the stem so it loosens. Raise the bolt up about an inch and then give it a good whack with a heavy hammer (and a piece of hardwood between bolt and hammer) to drive the bolt back down. It should then loosen up easily. Go to the library and see if they have Glenn's bicycle repair manual. It's a great starter reference. Good luck.|
| I'll teach you the trick.|
There is a bolt on top of the center of the handlebars. Turn it and loosen it a bit. About 5 turns. It'll be protruding up. Now whack it down with a hammer. Be mindful not to mar the top of the bolt. Use a rubber jar opener between the hammer and the bolt.
Did you whack it and did it pop down?
Now stand in front of the bike and with the front wheel between your legs and twist or move the handlebars to the right and left. Wobble those bars back and forth. Now, pull them up and out completely. Remove the lamp bracket/ or spacer. Tighten the top screwed headset race back down tight then loosen just a bit so it moves freely with no play.
Unless you are going to do a re- grease and I suggest to you that this is the time.
If you are not going to overhaul the headset, then you re-insert the handlebar stem back into the bike and you said you want to raise it but you must have a bit of it back into the bike. At least 2 1/2 inches back into the steer tube of the fork. Don't forget the lamp bracket or spacer that goes back in.
Tighten that bolt back up being mindful to have those bars straight so it aligns up with the front wheel. You are all done now.
If the stem is not long enough, find another old bike and use it's parts hopefully you'll find a bike with a longer handlebar stem.
Or, the local shop will have a dealer booklet and unless the shop is full of morons they'll order you a new handlebar stem that is adjustable.
Bring the old handlebars into the shop so they can measure it and order a proper fit.
I suggest to you that you check out Sheldon Brown's web page about old Raleigh bikes and about bikes in general.
Explore this site. Like a good museaum, it'll take awhile. Sheldon has been writing about bike repair for years and has one of the net's best web sites on this stuff.
He has a link with Harris bikes and they are bike gods there and they can help you and sell you almost everything you could ever need for this. The things they can't help you with you can ask for here and there is e- bay and other sources.
Doing the headset overhaul?
Lay a white cloth down and unscrew the heaset race on top until the fork comes out of the bike. Catch all those bearings. Take the fork out and with steel wool clean out the insides of the bearing cups that are pressed in at factory. Rinse it out, dry it, get a tube of Phil Wood grease from the bike shop (it's green) or and good quality bicycle grease like a lithium grease. Spread some in the channels of the headset cups. First, flip the bike over with the seat on the floor. Be careful to put something down so you don't mar up the leather saddle if it is new.
Drop in 25 3 3/32 loose ball bearings. Insert the fork back down. Now, as you hold that fork in the bike, flip the bike over and hold it together and now, with grease spread in the top screwed headset race you drop in the other 25 ball bearings. I had you lay a rag down to catch the bearings but you should replace these at this point anyways because these have likely been dry for 25 years and they might be rusty or pitted and bearings are not that expensive. Bearings are found at the bike shop. tell them you need 50 headset loose bearings and the size is 3/32 size. Now screw down the top race with the bearings in the race cup sitting in grease. Turn slowly, being mindful not to loose any of those bearings.The grease holds the bearings in place but any jostling can dislodge some of these and you MUST NOT loose any of them. "Fill it up and remove one" is the rule but just carefully count out 25 fot the top and bottom race.
it'll fit back together as you turn the top screwed race. tighten it up and be sure to loosen it a half turn or so- so that it turns perfectly without any wobble or side to side play. Put back spacer or lamp bracket and then install, adjust and tighten those handlebars as I said to.
You, likely will not need to replace the heaset cups as they last forever but if you want to go the extra step you can look on e- bay for the Raleigh headset. This also is the same headset that fits the Raleigh Chopper bike. So you can search the Raleigh Chopper websites for this part in as new condition. These pop in and out as they are a press fit and with a pipe or a proper bike shop tool these can be knocked out and a new set pressed back in.
As I have written before here, these headsets of Raleigh's are awesome and it is worth it to have a new set installed but a re- grease with new balls is good enough. Just keep these headsets re- greased and properly adjusted and as Sheldon says: "They will outlast us all"
Let us know how you are doing.
| The Glens book is like the old bike repair bible and I guess Sheldon is like Moses. Leading us out of the wilderness and teaching us things so we don't have to slaves to the bike shops. Teaching us so we can do it ourselves.|
And Sheldon and the Harris shop gang "Part the red seas" because they are so good, talented, experienced and inventive.
| We all have these parts in out individual stash of bike bits so don't be embarrised to ask for something if you loose a part to something.|
Raleigh made jillions of these headsets and this partuicular headset went on everything Raleigh made.
| If ever there is a old bike personality who deserves credit for helping so many people and being a leader it is Sheldon Brown.|
| Wow: very generous with your instructions/advice. Thanks! Copied it all: now I know what I'll be doing when it's too cold to cycle. Just got an old Raleigh Tourist off Craig's List, and I haven't been able to wipe the big goofy grin off my face ever since. But I'm dreading the months when it'll be too icy/cold to ride this winter. Maybe I'll learn to tinker around and make my bike an even better ride then... Cheers! |
| I know all about overhauling the Raleigh Tourist as well. ask us about that as well when the time comes.|
| Very good bike juju you all spread around here. Thanks!|
| Thanks so much for the info guys. Hopefully I can tackle this over the weekend and maybe install the vintage chid carrier that came with it too. I can't wait to ride in style with my daughter. I also picked up a copy of Glen's book off Amazon for less than $2.00 plus shipping. Thanks|
| The brakes are duel DRUM, not disc. Sorry. I stand corrected. It is still pretty unique bicycle.|
| Please check out my 1978 SPARTA WINDSOR DELUXE, quality all steel,28" tires, quality made in Holland, sold in Holland, then shipped to the United States, complete with original Sturmey Archer(model AB in rear)duel disc brakes, for sale now on ebay #320135759225 Pick-up in mid-AtlanticElkton, Maryland right on I95...45 min. south of Philly or 45 minutes north of Baltimore.Please bid to own. Thanks.|