AGE / VALUE:TEBAG? posted by: john on 8/31/2007 at 2:28:29 PM
i've searched the web high and low for info on these. a man and woman's they each have lucifer baby 900 dynamo lighting systems, renard saddles, weco front hubs, duralca brakes, sturmey archer 3 speed hubs that say 68 (so i guess 1968). anyone know about them. there is a website that details the racing team tebag, but nothing about these city-type bikes. no pics yet.
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WANTED:Pedal blocks (treads?) posted by: Bob on 8/31/2007 at 1:53:10 PM
I am restoring an old Royce Union english made 3 speed lightweight. One of the pedal treads is missing. I would prefer to replace the missing tread rather than the pedals. Are these available anywhere? Any leads will be much appreciated.
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   RE:WANTED: Pedal blocks (treads?) posted by Warren on 9/1/2007 at 7:26:40 AM
They do come up on ebay but you likely need a replacemnt only. Take a few digital pics of the pedal with the intact rubber and measure the length. Many of us have old pedals lying around and could help you. Where do you live? Someone here may live locally.
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   RE:WANTED:Pedal blocks (treads?) posted by Bob on 9/5/2007 at 7:57:10 AM
Attached is a link to photo of pedal. The treads are 4" long x 3/4" square. I live in the near west suburban Chicago area. Any help or guidance will be much appreciated.


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AGE / VALUE:POSITIONING WASHERS UPDATE posted by: CHRIS on 8/30/2007 at 7:43:19 AM
Well, the bike bike shop slammed me for over $60.00 and they replaced the brakes. I now have brakes on the bike!
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   RE:AGE / VALUE:POSITIONING WASHERS UPDATE posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 8/31/2007 at 9:21:34 AM
$60? Seems a bit steep, no? But then, I'm not familiar with the velocipede in question.

I will say though.... $60 is a lot cheaper than a visit to the E.R., eh?

Glad to hear you now can stop.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by: Tony on 8/29/2007 at 5:25:29 PM
What methods are you guys using to remove rust then polish your chrome parts? I have been using naval jelly on the rust then blue magic chrome polish from the auto parts store. I just wanted to know about other methods that I might try.

I just picked up a free junker 49 Raleigh Sports- the frame is cracked but the original owners book was in the seat bag along with a new Sturmey light set.
by: 24.16.5.210


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Chrome posted by Michael on 8/30/2007 at 10:52:13 AM
Just plain crumpled aluminum foil works wonders on chrome. Naval Jelly is nasty stuff that pits bare metal and turns it grey.
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   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by nate on 8/31/2007 at 5:38:09 AM
I use the cleaning kit Vinny sells here.
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   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by nate on 8/31/2007 at 6:12:44 AM
Don't use steel wool. It will scratch the chrome.
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   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 8/31/2007 at 9:23:49 AM
Well.. a good, reasonably stiff Bronze Brush... or Bronze Wool for that matter... as it's not overtly harsh on the chrome... in combination with WD40... followed by chrome or simichrome polish will work wonders.

Of course... all the methods we've listed here.... should say: "Elbow Grease Not Included".

;-)

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
by: 193.38.170.65

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Chrome posted by Charlie on 9/1/2007 at 7:48:13 AM
I've just finished restoring a '47 Raleigh,Wenol metal polish worked great on the chrome and steel wheels.Comes in a red tube,available at hardware stores.
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by Kevin on 8/29/2007 at 6:03:31 PM
SOS pads and hot water work well on rusty rims. So does fine steel wool, wetted with WD 40.
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Chrome posted by Stewart on 8/30/2007 at 5:59:40 AM
One of the best methods I have found(and one of the quickest) is to spray the chromed part with stainless steel cleaner then rub with piece of balled up aluminum foil. This also works amazingly well on painted surfaces.
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AGE / VALUE:1937(?) Raleigh Excelsior? posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 8/29/2007 at 4:45:38 PM
Ebay item: 330160379869

It's very nice.... proper frame size, etc... but I'm wondering about the year... would a 1937 machine have the white "tail"? I thought that was WWII blackout regulations.

Of course... they could very well be replacement mudguards...

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
Obfuscation.... a lifestyle....
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   RE:AGE / VALUE: 1937(?) Raleigh Excelsior? posted by Pete. on 8/31/2007 at 2:26:31 AM
I don't think the white stripe was a wartime thing - my understanding is it was made compulsory by the Road Traffic Act 1934 which required cycles to have a white area to the rear (and I'm going from memory here)something like 12 square inches. The intention was to reduce the high number of road accidents to cyclists. I have a circa 1931 Raleigh Light Roadster which had an after-market circular white metal disc clamped to the back of the black rear mudguard - stamped on the bracket it reads something like 'Complies with Road Traffic Act 1934'.
Pete.
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   RE:AGE / VALUE:1937(?) Raleigh Excelsior? posted by Matthew on 9/1/2007 at 12:00:56 PM
Okay Folks,

I wasn't going to rise to the topic again but it does intrigue us all and we often discuss it so here are the deatil of previous posts, by me from as far back as 2003 (though it has been discussed for more years than the last 4).

Without doubt this is the supreme discussion board for our type of cycles.

Now to matters of white paint on mudguards (fenders if you prefer). I have some pre-WW2 cycles with no white tail and some post war with, also pre-WW2 with. This anomoly is probably best understood in this manner.During the suffocating blackout of the second world war all cycles had to wear hooded or screened lamps, as did motor vehicles. In the early days of the war road casualties exceeded the deaths by enemy action. The relevant authorities came up with the white paint theory and thus mudguards on vehicles were painted white. Trams, buses, cars etc all had white edges to their extremities. Kerb stones, lamposts and street furniture also got the white treatment. Not everyone would be precise about their precautions and therefore the white tails on mudguards vary. No doubt the ministry of war or ministry of transport produced regulations which were either misunderstood or ignored. Thus a cyclist wishing to avoid prosecution may have painted more mudguard than was necessary whilst a rafish cad my have only painted the smallest area to avoid being collared. ( Collared - being physically apprehended by the local constable)

What of the pre WW2 cycles with no white patch? Either they never saw sunset for the duration or, as is often the case, they were laid up for the entire conflict thus avoiding the blackout altogether.

In the early weeks of the WW2 blackout more people died or were injured as a result of traffic accidents in the dark than died or were injured as a result of enemy action in the UK during the same period. Blackout regulations were fairly stringent and Air raid wardens were very strict and particular about light showing from any window or door. It was an offence to allow light to show from a building in the hours of darkness. In this atmosphere of fear people went 'over the top' with black out precautions and this would include painting over brightwork on bicycles cars and motorcycles. The Regulation lighting allowed on motor vehicles was nothing short of dangerous, slits in lamp covers at the front and miniscule rear lamp were order of the day. Interior lamps operated by opening the doors were almost unheard of anyway and were not encouraged at all. Buses and trams travelled with unlit interiors. The blackout was all consuming, even city dwellers speak of not being able to see your hand in front of your face on dark nights and moonlit nights were a boon for bombers. Petrol rationing stopped unneccesary journeys. It is not rare to find cycles with blacked out chrome work, even now. Many early war issue military cycles were built from civilian stock with chrome fittings simply painted over with drab kahki or RAF blue paint.

The Lighting Restrictions Order 1940.
This order... ran to some thirty-three articles and innumerable sub-paragraphs which everybody concerned with lighting in its various forms was required to understand ...

I find it impossible to believe that the regulations could not have been in a simpler and more intelligible form.
Lord Chief Justice Caldecote criticising the regulations in 1942

The National Archives holds the documents.
Record Summary
Scope and content LIGHTING, Lighting (Restrictions) Order 1940.
Covering dates 1939-1941
Availability Open Document, Open Description, Normal Closure before FOI Act: 30 years
Former reference (Department) ARP GEN 82/139/1/2 (parts I & II)
Held by The National Archives, Kew

I've had a quick look about and found the above. the regulations pertaining to Blackouts which included the white painting of mudguards and extremities of road vehicles dates from 1940.

The blackout was great success, without dropping a single bomb the Axsis forces were able to kill 600 British civilians every month for the first six months of the new regulations being in force. With cars driving only on sidelights and no other significant outdoor lamps allowed vast numbers of people were killed in traffic accidents, more than were killed in air raids in the same period.

Obviously the white tail didn't work.


Matthew - probably said too much.
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   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:1937(?) Raleigh Excelsior? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 9/1/2007 at 5:26:56 PM
Thanks Matthew... for ameliorating any and all obfuscation pursuant to the "White Tail" roadster. Interesting that the obfuscated "regulations" helped to do so as well.

Quite unsettling to know that blackout regs caused more injury at first.

Then... there's the opposite end of the spectrum... the U-boat captains surfacing at night of the coast of the US... seing all local shipping wonderuflly back-lit by such things as... Coney Island.... and any other town on the coastline.

Were there no English Roadsters sent over the pond prior to the war that may have not been "white tail" version? I can see how the cycles in the U.K. would of course end up that way per regs.

Gotta love the history.

Thanks Matthew!

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone
Clarified obfuscation... my favourite. ;-)
by: 4.154.217.227

   RE:AGE / VALUE:1937(?) Raleigh Excelsior? posted by tony on 8/29/2007 at 5:38:33 PM
This is a very nice bike- But its not a 37- that is for sure. maybe 50's. The cable pulley mount is brazed on rather than clamped. the cable pulley mounts on 30's bikes ususlly are clamped. They started brazing them in the 40's and 50's. In 1937 the bike would have had a top tube mounted shifter- not a bar mounted one. The price is right and the paint looks great! The white stripe did exist in 37- I have a 37 Humber with the white fender tip- My gal has a 37 Gazelle that also has a white fender tip.

Thats just what I think.


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