| The alloy seatpost fits wonderfully. Extra long, and I can raise it by opening the quick release. I can take the seat with me too.|
Well, it fits the front of the bus in every drivers opinion, and is one hell of a conversation piece!
What is it worth? I am asked.
Plus I am catching grief for not having it all original. Total strangers are commenting that my seat is not original and also about the chrome plate and handlebars are not original. Original war khaki green with the silver decals with the B.S.A. rifles on the down tube.
I have not attempted to fold it and bring it on the bus like Sheldon did with his Raleigh Twenty.
Quick release wing nuts on the front wheel, on the rear wheel I have regular Hercules 3 speed nuts and I carry a allen key to turn the handlebars.
I am retiring the sturmey f.w four speed with the cyclo block for a plain old 6 speed derailer rear wheel.
I love the feel of the old resilion alloy brake levers but they slide about and need to be kept tightened, I lost the little inner adaptor brackets that are unique to resilion but I have old inner tubes wrapped around the one and I'll do that with the other one that is loose. One bike buddy has old inner tubes wrapped around the handlebars as padding and it works and is comfortable just not as cool as Brooks leather handlebar grips.
I fell asleep last night watching a story about the soldiers who went on bomb runs over Sweinfurt, Germany to destroy ball bearing factories. They got shot up, killed, wounded and they would not buy you a beer or make friends with you because the next time they went to look for your new found friend you'd discover that he got killed on the dangerous mission.
I'm looking forward to enjoying derailer gears in the rear wheel.
| It was very interesting and I feel guilty for falling asleep before it ended but I was tired from work. |
| If you live in the Mid-Atlantic region, I have three Raleigh 3 speeds for sale together on ebay. One is a nice enclosed chaincase 1953 with a Dyno hub that worked last time I rode it. The others are 1973 Sports for parts only...untested...but mostly complete. Right now it just has a $95 bid for all three. Check it out! Ebay #320162434357|
| If it were me, I would have listed them separately and offered shipping.|
| Refusing to ship a bicycle really limits your market. Some sellers simply state that shipping can be arranged through a local bicycle shop. The shop does all the work, for a fee, of course, but buyers appreciate being able to buy something that isn't within driving distance.|
| Need some parts off the enclosed crankcase: the large disk that surrounds the right-hand pedal crank, and the two sheet metal parts that slide in around the left-hand side of the rear hub. |
On the attached figure, these parts are labeled P758, P599 and P922. (actually, this totals to four parts but only three part numbers!)
I live in Norfolk, VA, and willing to pay shipping.
| I'm about to build up a wheel using a Sturmey Archer Dynohub with modern spokes and rim. I read somewhere on the Net that the flanges on the Dynohub are thinner than modern hubs and therefore you need to use little washers to take up the extra space at the spoke elbow.|
Does anyone know anything more about this (i.e., the thickness of the washer, brass vs. steel, etc.)?
| That sounds like a theoretical position instead of real world. I don't doubt that the profile of the flange may be different but I've never heard of a Dyno hub flange failing and wouldn't give it a second thought. I suspect all SA hubs have thinner flanges too. Just don't try to tension the wheel like a modern wheel...the older steel rims provide much of the strength of the wheel unlike "race" wheels that require high tension as well as uniformity. They didn't even lace spokes over/under for the most part.|
Anyone else lace up an SA hub to a modern rim and have it fail?
| I've built a few wheels with Dynohubs (and AW hubs), using both modern 700c rims and older Raleigh rims. I didn't seen any need for washers even with the modern rims, and I haven't had any problems (except for the occasional pothole).|
| If you're reusing a "well-worn" hub, the little washers help keep the spokes centered in the (slightly enlarged) holes and add strength to the overall build (according to my local wheelbuilder). I had him do this in a Shimano 3-speed hub, and it's one tough mutha now!|
| The old Westwood rims had curved washers underneath the spoke heads inside the rim. He is not talking about this, however.|
| Hi Hodders! Its me again Bundy of Calif. I have only seen these little round tubes on a few english rod bikes on ebay uk they are attached to the main downtube under the seat they are called dynamo's but thats all the info i can gather does anyone out there know how this system works ?does this tube hold batteries or coils ? does it hook up to just the lights or to a dyno hub? i would like to find out more about this system !and possibly aquire one somewhere to finish my 34 roadster! any help would be appreciated thanks |
| I think they are tubes that hold batteries. I'm not sure how they fit into the electrical system. Cetainly the batteries were not recharged by the dynamo as there were no rechargeable batteries back in the day. Perhaps they took over when the bike was dyanamo was stopped and the lights were on.|
| I don't know that that is true. I remember distinctly putting regular old EverReady batteries in a recharger in the 1960s. |
| There are called DBUs or dry battery units and carried accumulators (batteries) in order to provide illumination when the bicycle was stationary. They will work with D type rechargable batteries.|
Matthew - getting a buzz
| In 2005 Geoff Rogers said...|
Also, the battery pack was used on all Superbes in the 50s as well as some other Raleighs. Known as a Dry Battery Unit, or DBU, it contained rechargeable cells that kicked in when the bicycle stopped moving, so you were not sitting in darkness at a traffic light, for example. Once you started moving again, the batteries switched off and you were on Dynohub power. The casing should say "DBU" someplace.
Edward in Vancouver said this in 2002....
When I first set up my DFU, I gave up on the orginal wiring harness and went down to an electronics store and got some black wire and those heat-shrink tubes. Although at this time P.C's site wasn't up yet, I got the same wiring configurations by dumb luck and trial and error. I just sliced off 1/4 pieces of the heat-shrink tubing and ran them on the harness every foot or so, tube-wrapped the connections, and then shrank the tubes with a hairdryer. It looks very clean. If you need any of those little copper plugs, or the "ground" seatpost terminal, give me a shout. I've also got the original wiring harness as well, although it's grey.
Now after this is all said and done, I've had trouble with the FSU, the Filter switch unit. This is a little round box, same diameter as the battery tube, and about an inch thick that fits into the battery tube. This is the little device that says when to use dyno-power and when to use battery power. Anyway, this wasn't working, and when I ran the bike at speeds over 20 mph, I was getting very little light, just a feeble glow. I'm not an electronics whizz, but I managed to get a schematic of this device on Tony Hadland's site, brought it into to Radioshack, and got the proper replacement little electronic pieces. I soldered the old ones out, and soldered the new ones in, and it works great again. Of course no one can comment on my soldering job because the FSU is stuffed back into the batterytube, where no one can see it. I told ya I wasn't an electronics whizz!
Matthew - travelling back in time
| Yeah, I did wrie that waaay back in 'o2. Had a lot of fun with it though....|
| Take a look at ebay item no 150163885718 an elderly Royal Enfield with a fantastic frame the like I have never seen before.Shame it wasn't closer to home I would love to have it in my shed.Looks all sad and needs a good home.....|
Anyone seen one like that before or can shed any light on it?
Pete...off to check the mileage to Essex.
| Hi Pete,|
this looks about WW1 age and rare I can't believe its got less than a day to run and is less than a quid. Go on buy it. The 480 miles round trip will do you good when you see how wonderful the bike is and recount tales of its purchase and restoration to us all here.
Matthew - go on, go on, go on, you know you want to.
| Matthew, it's a 370 mile round trip for me.I reckon you'd be closer and ought to own it, as much as I would like it I can't go that far for another old bike to add to the rapidly shrinking shed.|
| So, what is the deal with that extra tube in the frame? Looks pretty "stout", as you Brits say. Seems like way too low a price for such a beauty!|
| Srry Pete,|
I too have to squeeze in the shed already. It will have togo to another good home.
Matthew - standing to one side; this time.