| Hello, I'm about to buy a 1920's roadster with Sturmey k6 changer. I wondered what kind of dynamo would have been on the bike? Bottle/oil etc. Winter is fast approaching and I'd like to keep the bicycle as original as possible. |
| Hi Mark,|
A K6 is from 1936 so its later than the bike. A standard pre-war dyno hub laced into the front wheel would be the tidiest and best period attachment if you want (and I would) generator lights on the bike.
Matthew - shedding light
| I ended up getting a 1939 Rudge Whitworth instead. Still need lights. I thought about a dynohub, it would be my first choice too. But I don't know if I could handle having a 70's or 80's date on the bike. As the chances of getting something close to 1939 I would imagine are pretty slim.|
Mark - still in the dark.
| I'm looking for 6v, 2A replacement lamps for the dynohub lighting system on a '69 Raleigh Superbe. Are these readily available somewhere? |
I also need a few (3-4) old 260mm spokes for the short side of the hub. Before I harvest them from an otherwise good wheel (was going to take longer ones to be cut and rethreaded), does anyone have some spares? Mine are old and dull, but not rusted at all. I need the nipples too.
| Once again, www.reflectalite.com|
| Is there any reason that Radio Shack or hardware-store variety flashlight / lantern bulbs won't work? Aren't the screw bases the same?|
| My local TrueValue has a little box of miniture bulbs. It includes 6v bulbs marked " Bicycle Lights". $1.99. They work for me.|
| If you want the period look, go with whatever bulb. If you want better performance, use the Reflectalite bulbs.|
| I put Michelin World Tour tires on my bike, 27 1/4, and they don't leave room for fenders. Can some one explain sizing these tires, or recommend a sturdy tire I can use to commute that will be small enough for to fit a fender in there? I don't wanna get wet _or_ get a flat.|
I know it's not a Roadster, but it _is_ a three speed, and those lightweight guys over there snicker behind my back, a nd they don't know nothing about a bike unless it was hand-brazed up by some one-armed Italian guy during his 'Hollywood period' in the 70s. It's like, what's vintage about 1970?!?!
| Are the 27in wheels original? If so, I'm suprised there isn't adequate clearance for fenders. If it was equipped with the smaller 26 x 1 1/4 originally, though, that may be where the problem comes from.|
| I'm pretty sure it's a 50 - it has the brazed on pulley, and white lining like the 50. It's orange, however, like the 49. It has a Dunlop lightweight rim in front with a high flange hub, so I assume that is the correct rim. The back has a 51 AW on a French rim. It rings like a bell when I upshift to 3rd.|
These tires I have on are just like a 26 3/8 ea3 tire. Very big around. Not like a road bike tire at all.
| Orange? Never heard of that colour and it's not in the spec sheets that I can find. Braze on pulleys were slightly after 50 as well methinks.|
| I have a blue 1950 Raleigh Clubman. It has the brazon pulley. The correct rim is a 27 X 1 1/4 Dunlop special lightweight. The high flange hub is correct also. I have Bluemels mudguards on mine, with plenty of clearance. My tires are not fat like a 26 in 3 speed, they are thin like road racing tires. They are IRC high pressure tires. You may have to adjust or modify the clamp that attaches the mudgaurd to the brake bolt to gain some clearence. If it is a 49 it should have 26 X 1 1/4 EA1 Dunlop special lightweight rims and tires. If your bike is a 49 it should have the EA1 rims and tires. EA1 tires have a 597 dia. bead the same as a Schwinn S6 however the S6 tire is fat like a 3 speed tire where as the EA1 tire is thin. I have S6 tires on my 48 Clubman as I can not find any true EA1 tires. The 26 X 1 3/8 EA3 English 3 speed tires have a 590 bead dia and will not fit the EA1 or S6 rim. |
| I don't know from nothing. I just look on Retro Raleighs. It says 48-49 is orange, and 1950 is gold. 48-49 is 26", and 50 is 27 inch. I have a Orange, 27 inch, that matches all the specs except for color of a 1950 Rudge Clubman.|
So can anyone tell me, before I waste 70$ to find out, how I can tell if a tire is small diameter or big when you fill it all up with air? Is an Armidillo gonna be pretty small profile? That's what my local shop carries. I notice on the specs that they changed the stock tire in 1950. Maybe for the same reason I want to change now?
| Don't mean to be difficult but whats the url for the orange colour? Peter K's article, also on Retro Raleighs shows green only for the early bikes. I've got a 48 and I've done a lot of browsing so I'm interested.|
Where are you looking?
| Ahhh...Rudge Clubman! Just re-read it. So it should have bigger wheels if it followed Raleighs specs. Maybe the Rudge as a second tier marque still had the earlier 71 degree parallel angles and maybe this created clearance issues? Just guessing.|
| I'm not sure you are correct in Rudge being 'second tier'|
THis page calls Raleigh/Humber/Rudge equal, and Robin Hood and all that other stuff lower quality. My understanding is that it was used in markets that already had a Raleigh dealer. The Rudges I have (45-6 Sports, 51 Sports, 68 Sports and the Clubman) all seem high end. Most came from the San Jose Califorinia area. I assume San Jose, being a big city, had more than one bike shop back then.
As for the frame, you are correct. I just measured and it is 71 and 71. However, it does have white pinstriping and a pulley , chromed fork tips, etc etc from the 50 model. And it has a decal says Aero Clubman. I think the model 'years' were more dictated by how full the parts bin was, then the pictures/descriptions inthe catalog.
Anyway, I guess I'll pop 70$ on some Armadillos and see if they fit better.
| Sorry, I didn't mean to be disparaging at all. That's a beautiful bike and I wish I had a few Rudges in the stable.|
I have it in my head that eventually, Raleigh diminished and dropped all marques. At the end, they had ruined their own brand too.
| Well, don't say it too loud! The best thing about Rudge is that it isn't spelt 'R A L E I G H,' and so I can pick up beautiful old bikes cheap! Both my '45 and the Clubman attracted no interest on Craigslist - gave me the time I needed to get down there and buy them!|
| I have the World Tour tires on my '51 Raleigh Clubman with 27x1 1/4 rims. It took a lot of adjusting to get them to fit right with the fenders but I didn't want Chinese tires on my bike. They look great but other tires with a smaller profile would have fit a lot better. You choice. Ted|
| I put Armadillo tires on - the red side wall ones. Much better fit. With the World tour, I couldn't even slide the back tire forward enough to get it off the drop outs with deflating the tires a little.|
Slid the fenders in place with plenty of clearance, but I can see they are gonna be touchy to adjust. Looks really great!
But I am really, really, REALLY gonna miss the soft ride that the World Tours have. These new tires are supposed to be at 110 pounds per inch - it's like riding on steel tires!
Good thing I keep codeine in my backpack along with my bike tools!
| Rudge and Humber had the same "quality" features as the contemporary Raleighs; in particular, the heavy mudguard stays and frame braze-ons. The wire stays are the giveaway on the second-tier models.|
| I have listed three vintage Rudge catalogs on eBay circa 1939 and 1940. Seller ID Deluxe64|
Thanks for your consideration.
|Refurbishing my old Raleigh Rudge, bought new in The Hague in 1954 when I was 11; need these three parts on the chaincase: The large disk that surrounds the right-hand pedal crank, and the two sheet metal parts that slide in around the left-hand side of the rear hub. Disk is 21 cm diameter. On the attached Raleigh/Rudge/Humber figure, these parts are labeled P758, P599 and P922. (actually, this totals to four parts but only three part numbers!)|