| Whilst trying to keep the old quadrant "top tube" gear change bikes looking old (and running), I must confess that I have made two quick fixes in regards to the gear cables utilising modern day gear cable connectors/adjuster set-up devices.|
This sits un-easy with me hence I've kept all the original broken cables and "real" adjusters but feel that now is the time to use the "real" adjusters with new cable.
Can anyone offer advice on this as the cables have obviously got to be cut to the correct length (and threaded through the adjuster device before attaching the
permanent cables ends.
I'm not sure what the cable ends are actually made of or what is the best method to attach them.
Any suggestions !
Incidentally, I've just noticed that my friend "the Sunbeam" has had the gear cable very cleverly fixed in three different places....but it snapped on me yesterday !
Oh well, back to the drawing board, just when I thought we were starting to get along together.
| Someone said that a motorcycle shop can put a new "knob" on the end of the cable, wherever you need it.|
| Actually.... I would think anyone with brazing / silver soldering equipment and a modicum of skill pursuant thereto... would be able to make it work as well.|
I wonder if the engineers that developed our cable systems had any clue that they would be around so many years down the line.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - cable.... it's not just for TV
| I'll have a rummage through my odds & end cupboard, the soldering iron has probably gone rusty and the flux is no doubt twenty years past it's sell by date !|
It's probably time for an upgrade and a bit of practice.
| I made a new SA cable like this: I took a regular gear shift cable and cut off the end that didn't fit the SA shifter. I figured out what length I needed and cut off the other end. (Be prepared to get it wrong!) Then I slipped the adjusting sleeve over the cable and put a short piece of the smallest diameter copper tubing I could find (hardware store or hobby shop) that would go over the cable. Then I stuck a brass pin in the center of the cable to expand it inside the bit of tubing. Then solder it all together and trim off the end of the soldered mass neatly. Seems to hold up ok.|
| Nice one David, any more suggestions folks.|
The cable ends look as though they've been produced in a mould of some description.
I'm 100% confident of getting it wrong the first few times (especially the length) although one could always cheat a little by repositioning the shifter if you were starting to get suicidal !
Thinking about it, if length is only slightly out, it might be o.k. for another bike i.e. Larger or smaller frame, gents or ladies etc.
My ladies Sunbeam with the twin pulley wheel set-up will be the first to be dealt with followed by two old gents bikes (the two I've cheated on by using the universal/modern day connector/adjuster devices.
First things first though...wifes just returned home with a puncture !
| I've used a drennal tool to grind down one end of a modern cable to fit a S/A shifter---still would need to make the other end to work inside the original barrel adjuster---I beleave someone on this site said use a spoke end for this.|
| Is it hard to get a cog for a Bayliss-Wiley track hub? Also, why would it have the threads on both sides? What rims would have come with the set? Still looking for options for my Humber Clubman. Ted|
| Standard track cogs are readily available new or vintage on ebay. Standard english lockrings too. Threads on both sides allowed for two gear ratios or possibly a freewheel. A Humber clubman would have used 26 X 1 1/4 inch (early) or 27 x 1 1/4 (later). These rims were usually made by Dunlop and were available in steel, stainless steel, high pressure and a rare alloy model. Constrictor rims were high end alternatives.|
Sheldon may be gone--but he's still helping us all!
| Have a look at Harris's choices...wow. $120 for their top cog! The Dura Ace is a steal at $22. The thing about track cogs is they just won't wear out with casual riding. |
ebay auction # 320230242145 features the standard old cog that will work just fine if you need a bigger cog. The DA stops at 16 teeth.
| Thanks for the reply. I just purchased the set of track hubs on Ebay yesterday. I didn't realize it was all standard threads. I used to ride a '60's Pogliaghi track bike in the early '70s. Wish I had that bike now to go with my other Italian bikes. Now I need a pair of Dunlop 27x1 1/4" rims (32-40) or a Weinmann Alesa equivalent. Any suggestions? It took me quite a while to find a 40 rear for my '51 Clubman. By the way, the Classic Lightweights UK site is also very helpful. Ted |
| The reason Shimano made so many 3 speed hub models is that they all were lousy. Has anyone out there rebuilt one lately. I found a secret way to assemble them without swearing at the top of my lungs. Or using up all my spare parts. I want to hear from someone who rebuilt one with or without success. I know the SA is a better design. I don't like the way the Shimano rides but we are sometimes asked to repair one. Ed|
| Ed,you want a really great 3 speed hub--find a german sachs torpedo.IMO they were even better made than SA.|
| Yes I have owned F&S. Very nice. The secret of putting the Shimano back together is heavy grease or wax on the pawls to the left side of the hub. This keeps them in so the hub can be re assembled. I think most mechanics know about the drive side cup removal tool. I see the tool on Ebay once a year. This cup must be removed before the hub is removed from the spokes and rim. I guess the real secret is walk away and forget about fixing this type of hub. The Shimano 3 speed coaster is a little less difficult, go figure! Ed|
| Sachs has small springs in their cute, small, red faced little 3 speed triggers with the long trigger shifter leavers.|
| I have rebuilt my type "F" Shimano hub several times now (each time swearing it was the last). They certainly aren't anywhere as strong as Sturmey models. Been riding it gently, seems to be holding up well so far. I got a copy of Glenn's bike manual from the library for instructions on how to do it. Glenn's says the newer "cartridge" replacement is a lot better. I got a shop box of parts from ebay, also a ball cup removal tool, both pretty cheap, considering.|
| Glenn's is a good source of photos of that hub. The special tool won't fit all 333 hubs. I have rebuilt at least 10 in the last 2 years and I am still slow at getting them back together. The reason I sometimes use Shimano is that they are less prone to slip drive due to cable adjustment. There are a bunch of them in the trash to be collected every Friday morning. I like free parts. I would use SA but 36 hole hubs are hard to find. Ed |
| Hi. Can anyone tell me more about my Norwich Rival? I have just bought one that rides like a dream but is in great need of a clean up. So I would like to find out what sort of return I could get for my investment. Plus any other facts and info about the bike itself would be greatly appreciated. |
| Check March 2 and March 11 postings on this site.|
| Hi Jennie,|
See my comments on the dates mentioned.
At the price you paid you may not see a return on your capital but if I were you I'd be talking to bicycle frame builders or local steel fabricators to try to get a frame made up for the front of the bike. I am of course assuming that you bought the Rival trade bike from eBay recently?
You have a rare and interesting bike. Did the seller give you any idea where it had come from, other than the Rival Cycle works in Heigham Street?
Matthew - happy to help.
| There was a front carrier on fleabay the other day (UK) I can't remember what section it was listed on but may be worth checking it out.If I can find it I will post a link.|
| Is it possible to straighten out slightly twisted cranks.|
I have one bike with both cranks very slightly twisted. I've never experienced this before or the odd pedaling action it provides, apart from that it's a lovely bike.
I'm thinking of getting some heat on to them with a slight twist back to the correct position but I'm not sure (a) if this is possible or (B) if this is the right way to go about it.
What is the most likely cause of this.....excessive stand-up riding by a previous owner ?
Bike is possibly 70 years old and cranks look original.
Any ideas ?
Steve - another day, another problem !
| Cranks can be bent when bikes are carelessly and repetitively dropped to the ground. Usually, the pedals spindles get bent first. Check those out as well.|
I think it would be easy to straighten a left crankarm in a large bench vise. The right might need additional and judicious use of a BFM. Big farging mallet for the uninitiated. I've used a mallet to straighten steel chainrings. Spin them while installed on the bike and smack the rings in the high spots. Use wooden blocks or dowels to get in at tough spots.
| You're right Warren, the pedal spindles do look bent (I forgot to mention that).|
I'll have a good look at them next time.
| To conclude, both pedal spindles were bent and fortunately only the left crank (the easier of the two) was twisted.|
Crank secured not in the bench vise (it was to far away)but in a recess in the chassis of a stripped down bulldozer (it's surprising what you can use if you look around) followed by extra large adjustable used very gently on the other end of the crank to bring it back into line.
In future I must remember which direction the left pedal spindle thread goes (I know it's logical but it still throws me from time to time).