| Hi Florence,|
Is this your auction?
Matthew - wondering?
| What do you more knowledgeable folks think about this bike? I, too, am curious about age and value.|
| There are three bikes all the photos are not good enough to make sound judgments upon but all the whole bikes look reasonably good and the frame is what is says.|
Florence enhance your sales, take better photos and more details, sshow us what you are selling.
NOt my auction, seller not known to me, seller not on same continent as me etc etc.
Matthew - close up and personal
| I've been looking for a DL-1. Sent the seller an e-mail. Doesn't have any other photos so it's really hard to tell what the condition is. Will pass for now. Think I'll just wait until Vin and the folks at Old Roads get their's ready for sale. |
| And you only though American bikes had springer forks.Well american bikes used springer forks as a show idem to resemble a motorcycle whereas the british springer forks were for real motored bicycles.Finding a real girder fork has been one of the problems holding me up from a motored bicycle.The Wyman bike I helped Rif on was suppose to have a springer fork---it didn't happed.The result was a broke frame.Only way to cushion a blow to the frame was the tires, good only to about 10mph. a motored bicycle really needs a springer fork. Webbs are great forks for british bikes---sam |
| You don't have to have a springer on a motorized bicycle. The old type forks, with braced truss rods, are plenty strong enough. An old friend of mine rode nothing but homemade motorized bicycles for many years, and he never had a springer. He typically used old Schwinn frames with the early style front fork.|
| The fork didn't brake on Rif's bike.What broke was the frame it's self--in fact the head tube seperated---leaving him holding the front wheel as the rest just fell out from under him---luckly he had just stopped at the time.A bump or pot hole let the forks act as a leaver against the frame.The tire takes some of the blow---but at speed shocks are transfered to the frame.Old schwinns have a stromg frame but mostly they have a large balloon tire that can take up a lot of the shock.Most modern "motored" bicycles use a M/B frame that has a telyscoping fork but for me that just doesn't have the right look.And FYI,Rif rode across theUS--Ca. to NY. and made it to NY. before the frame gave way.And he did most it at speeds of 30MPH plus.If he had keep it to under 15mph I feel he wouldn't have had the frame fail.Most don't ride that long and hard on anything this small.The project was a good one as I learned a lot. |
| I have a 48 womens raleigh sports with a bent driveside crank arm. Anyone have a reasonably priced crank and cotter they'd part with? Thanks -> email@example.com|
Tell me I'm not going crosseyed here...
Can't say I've ever seen... or heard of... this type of tandem arrangement.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I think I've seen a similar set-up at seaside resorts in the 60/70s but not with individual seats, they had bench seats and a rectangular stripey coloured canopy overhead to protect you from the sun (or rain in England) !|
It would be interesting to get a better shot of the linkage, especially at the front.
This could be a two manned trade bike for those long distance delivery journeys requiring double-manning to comply with law - one takes over while the other one has a sleep !
A few years ago in the haulage game a second man was often utilised to work the brakes on larger loads, could this be what it's all about ?
Steve - trading carefully.
| Its a clever take on the 'sociable' tandem. The photos are clever but I'd want to see it very closely to ensure that it was as well built as it sets out to be.|
The thing that Steve mentions is a pedalo. There are loads still at seaside holiday parks but they are frowned upon by the Police and other authorities. Very low geared, often ridden by non-cyclists and with pathetic brakes. Most parks insist they never hit the highway and quite right too.
Matthew - keeping left
| Weird. I'm sure it feels really strange to ride. At least a sociable handles like any other bike. It's hard to imagine that this linkage is solid enough to make it feel "right."|
| That's just a kit you can buy(Advertized in Trailer Life)to couple two bikes together.I have a very rusty one laying around somewhere.|
| I feel that I just had to come clean and explain why I had excessive play at the wheel rim in a recent discussion.|
It never was anything to do with the hub, cones etc etc (and yes I really did try four different wheel/hub combinations - I even part rebuilt one hub) !
The problem was...........being a novice !
I had removed the mudguards front & rear in preparation for a paint job and in my haste to get things done before the cold got to my fingers, I quickly screwed the small retaining screw (that secures the seat stay and the mudguard stay to the point near the left hand side dropout) back into position not realising that there was a fraction of a gap (even though it was tight)hence the play.
All that was required to solve the problem was a very thin washer.
It's surprising how a fraction at one end can feel like two inches out at the other end, I suppose it's even more exaggerated on a 28" wheel bike.
Anyhow, I'm happy now and also have a little bit of an understanding as to what goes on inside a hub.
Knowledge (and experience) is a wonderful thing, talking of which and I guess there's no doubt a perfectly logical reason for this.......why do some trade bikes (butchers, bakers, grocers etc) have small front wheel and some have the larger front wheel ?
Is it purely a load capacity issue ?
Steve - wonder what the next problem will be !
| We have all been there.Go in all technical and it ends up something simple.|
We never stop learning I guess.