| Why but why does every bike you find has been hand painted in black paint! Its a mystery! |
| You're almost 100% correct...but I found one last year that had been so badly hand painted in very thick light blue that I just had to dismantle it immediately once I got it back home. |
It was so bad I couldn't even figure out what size the nuts were until I'd heated the paint off in order to undo them !
Funny thing is, it yielded two fantastic stainless rims complete with lovely Dyno-Four speed (which I've still got and am keeping for a rainy day).
Steve - any colour/color you like...as long as it's not light blue !
| The 52 Claud Butler frame I got from Bruce Robbins was also hand painted black.I now have a lot of respect for that British Black Paint.Hardest stuff I ever tryed to get off a frame--I think PC said they used it on railroad cars.|
| British paint is unique in general. Literally magical. If you go to England you'll see wonderful shades of paint on front doors of homes. Colors you can't duplicate here in the states to save your soul. Thats just house paint. |
| I'm looking for an expansion wedge (the cone-shaped type, not the type that slants on one side) for a 1938 Raleigh.|
| Thankyou Chris you confirm my suspicions.I have restored several old british motorcycles over the years and even though I have prepared parts myself they have always come back from the chromers absolutly awful.I have rubbed down my rims,primed them and sprayed them with Hammerite smooth black.Even if not origonal they have come up really well!Have spent my week off doing this bike up and have only done front wheel,mudguard,handlebars and front brakes,taking lon ger than I thought!Can you still get hold of Fibrax brake blocks?|
| I just discovered this catalogue page for 1918...can you imagine what those new roadsters looked like with these rims,stove enameled paint and nickel plate everywhere?|
| Looks like something you would see on a display stand in a decorating/wallpaper shop !|
And here's me worrying about how to get my all black finish just right !
Steve - Black lined out in red or gold would be nice.
| Stupid question but, when you want to take the rear wheeel off a Raleigh Superbe, how do you disconnect the wires from the Dynohub? Three speed and four speed. |
| I've got five old Dynohubs here and they all have the same wire connections to the hub i.e. Wires into spadeclips which are then secured to the pins protruding from the hub by 8mm nuts (or the imperial equivalent).|
My 8mm spanner seems to fit a variety of nuts on old bikes...especially brake blocks ? Some are probably weathered down 9mm or as I said before...the Imperial equivalent. I really must colour/color code my spanners.
| I forgot to mention that you may have to wedge/jam the moving part.|
I usually wedge a large screwdriver blade underneath the neck of the clips to stop things from rotating.
If things are "grubby" or bone dry around the area, it may pay to clean up and drop some penetrating fluid around the nuts the day before.
I've never needed to tickle things along a little with the "flame thrower" on this job !
| Thanks, but I am having difficulty visualising this operation. Maybe when I get started it will become clear|
| I'm sure all will become clear once you've stared at it for a while with a chocolate biscuit and a cup of tea !|
I/m presuming the chainguard (or section of) has been removed.
Steve - now where's that freewheel removal gadget.
| Not that the chainguard interferes with the Dyno wire side of things !|
| The best way to take the chainguard off, without getting into a panic, was going to be one of my future questions. |
| Do you need to take the complete chainguard off, is there a removable segment towards the rear (held in by a screw or two) or has it acquired a hockey stick shaped guard at some time in the past ?|
The only reason I ask is because in my relatively short time at getting back "into" bikes, I've seen various chain guard arrangements...the fully enclosed Little Oil Bath being the most tedious (and satisfying when it's back on the bike) !
I would strongly suggest having another cup of tea and maybe two chocolate biscuits this time whilst studying the task in hand !
Steve - I've been known to eat all the chocolate biscuits in the house (and send for reinforcements) when I sense the panic button is approaching.
| If you do need to take the complete chainguard off you will probably have to remove two nut/bolts towards the rear and one nut/bolt towards the front of the guard.|
At this stage I'm presuming that the chainwheel cover and inspection slider (if it's got one) has been removed.
Split the chain and get it out of the way and remove the chainwheel (a friendly cotter pin is quite handy here...disturb it the day before and put some penetrating oil around it if it looks well bedded in).
Chainguard should be easy to remove now.
Steve - correct me gents if I've missed something out.
| It's the whole caboodle chainguard - but a 1960/1970 one, without the little screw oil cap on top. Anyway, I am going on holiday tomorrow, to the Scilly Isles. So will report back in a week or two. Thanks. |
My trouble is that instead of tea and biscuits, I reach for a beer!