| I need a front fork key to lock the wheel on my '72 Raleigh Superbe. A locksmith tells me he might be able to make a key if I could tell him the key blank type or lock code. Can anyone help with this? Or, might anyone have a spare key for a '72 Superbe? Many thanks.|
| In the archives there is information on getting keys made.|
Here's one link:
and here's another:
| The keys say "Wilmot Union Breeden" on them. |
have the locksmith look that up in his book. there is a number stamped on the lock face wghere the key goes in on the bicycle give the locksmith this number as well.
| As posted before the Larz Anderson Bicycle Show & Swap is coming again this year on Sunday July 20th on the grounds of the Larz Anderson Automobile Museum, 15 Newton st., Brookline, MA 02445. |
Entry charge for adults is $10, for children $5.00. This covers entry into the show with bikes etc. There is no additional charge for entering bikes into the show or swap meet spaces.
The Museum has a new staff on board headed by Tyler Burns, Assistant Director, as of a few months ago, and for everyone involved in the show it brings a breath of fresh air to the Museum and our show.
Friend Maurice Bresnahan, and Co-Chairman of the show & Tyler Burns of the Museum have worked out an agreement so we can now bring back the swap meet this year, so we can now revive the show to its original format. There will be no charge for the swap meet. We ask that everyone try and pre-register for the swap, although folks can show up the morning of the show to register. Set up time for the swap starts at 8:00AM.
We have about twenty table that the Museum has on hand, but once those are gone we will be renting the tables from a local supplier. There will be a $10.00 per table charge to rent a table once the initial supply of the Museum are all signed up for.
Set up time for the Concourse or bike show will begin at 9:00AM, but for those attending the Vintage Ride, staff will be on hand to register the bikes by 8:30. Pre-registration is not necessary for the Concourse, but we would like to know what you are bringing so we can publish it as a preview to the list.
As we do every year, voting for the Concourse will be by "Popular Choice" voting of everyone attending as ours is not a Concourse de Elegance". A list of awards available will be posted in a few days.
VCC Member Chris Barbour will be leading a Vintage Ride departing the Museum grounds promptly at 9:00AM. Please be prepared uneven city pavement and crushed-stone carriage paths in the city’s 19th Century parks… 28mm tires minimum are recommended. The pace will be easy and unhurried, suitable for all bikes and riders. Meet at the Museum’s building entrance.
Also, for visitors who will arrive in Boston on Saturday and wish to have a bit of sightseeing, the Veteran-Cycle Club is happy to offer a more substantial ride that afternoon. Again, it would be unhurried and suitable for all bikes and any level of fitness. Anyone interested should be in touch with Chris Barbour at his email address by Friday morning, up to noon, July 18. This will be arranged by e-mail @ Christopher.Barbour@tufts.edu
To log onto our website for the show, please click onto the URL below.
linked to the site is the "registration form" (which can be downloaded for printing) for the Concourse and the Swap Meet, plus links to many photo albums from prior shows, plus directions and contact information. If you want any additional information please write to me by email at my Yahoo address above or contact Susan at the Museum @ 617-522-6547.
Also as an addition for the show will be a display of extenct and rare automobiles which in prior years has included a few Stanley Steamer, Stutz Bearcats etc. This should all make for a very fun day for all.
I'll be listing parts for sale over the next few days and weeks. If you need something, email me before it's gone! I also have a Raleigh DL-1 with fully enclosed chaincase for sale--email me before I put this on ebay as well.
Here are pics of the DL-1. I regret having to sell this, but it has collected dust too long in my garage, and I need someone else to make use of it. Great bike, and I put countless hours into its restoration. Sad to see it go. :(
| I'm referring back to the article dated 6/7/08 (BB King)just to let one or two folks know what the outcome was.|
Well, I finally got around to stripping the B/B out today (with the help of my new cotter pin removal tool...thanks Mark if you're reading this).
I patiently refrained from using my precision hammer and punch for fear of causing any damage to a bike that I suspect may be a little rare.
Anyhow, the cotter pins on the cranks surrendered quite easily but the slightly narrower cotter pins on the B/B were awkward to get at because of the curvature of the B/B, hence I utilised a piece of narrow steel plate (for grip and level out the curvature) and heat gun (to theoretically expand the bracket slightly) then finished off with the mole grips just to twist and pull the pin out for the remainder of its length.
At this stage I still didn't know what make of bike it was, although I had my suspicions.
So, next remove the bearing cups with the strongest circlip spanner (borrowed off a friend) I've ever used in my life, I was really worried that I might snap one of the prongs in one of the cup holes (they have four), it goes without saying that I had heated the area before taking this procedure, I'm fairly sure they had never been removed before due to the perfect contours of the holes.
O.K., cups out/off, 22 mucky bearings and finally one axle with the word GUNDLE MADE IN ENGLAND proudly stamped into it.
So, it's a GUNDLE trade bike that I presume will require 22 x 1/4 inch bearings or replacement cups or axle to eliminate the 1/4 inch play that existed beforehand.
This is were my naivety creeps in as I find it quite difficult to locate which of the parts removed has the major wear (or do they all have major wear to create 1/4 inch play).
I'm sort of presuming that installing new bearings (that I've never purchased before) is the sensible thing to do and that the T.D.C. bearing cups could be replaced by another brand if it really came to it, the axle is a lovely piece of metal (what a sad boy I am) and I really wouldn't want to change it unless I really had to...do they wear out ?
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Steve - Oh. by the way...the narrow BB cotter pins came out unscathed.
| I forgot to mention.|
What on earth do those narrow BB cotter pins do ?
The BB is solid with no split or crack in the outer casing which is logical if the pin was...pinching up the gap to tighten things down, but it isn't !
| Hi Steve,|
Look up Gundle on Flickr.com there are photos of some catalogues etc.
The cotters just help to locate the bearings and stop them running about laterally, I think.
Matthew - to the shed.
| Thanks Matthew,|
It's a fascinating site and one I will look further into when I've a little more time.
I must confess that I've drifted into trade bikes in a big way...mine will never be immaculate, but I would like to think that they will be "well spannered".
We (the family) are using them for the purpose that they were intended for (as well as leisure).
The narrow cotters mentioned above can be seen on the inside of the BB but are obscured by the bearing cup when it is inserted...needless to say...the bearings are one side of the cup and the narrow cotters are facing the cup thread on the other side (but they don't touch the thread) !
I'll report when I've got it back together as it really should be...one cup is struggling to go all the way home at the moment !
Steve - Shed, supermarket on trade bikes, shed, work.
| Just a few random thoughts: I have seen bottom brackets with 5/16 inch balls. If the axle has a shoulder past where the crank fits then this is unlikely. Its easy to see if the axle is worn, these bearings (and the cups) were case hardened, and the axle will wear on one side (opposite each end) and will wear right through the case hardening, clearly seen. The cottered cast bottom brackets were standard on heavy duty type trade bikes. Supposed to pinch to secure the bearing cups. RH cup would be LH thread. |
| Thanks for your thoughts.|
I've measured the bearings and they appear to be as close as damn it to 1/4" !
I'll study the axle closely tomorrow for wear.
The bracket width (LH to RH side) measures 3 1/4" which is far wider than any other BB I've got here hence the axle is something like 5 7/8" in length (once again far bigger than any other axle I've got here).
Interestingly the bearing cups are both RH thread, I (like you) would have expected a LH and RH thread.
I can see the logic of pinching the bearing cups but I can't for the life of me see how this is being performed in this particular case !
I hadn't thought of utilising bigger bearings i.e. 5/16"...quite a cunning way of eliminating play...presuming they'll fit !
Steve - Gundled !
| Live update - success !|
Cleaned everything up, had a nights sleep and started again this morning.
LH bearing cup is screwed all the way home (and that's where it's staying...had to wind it in and out many times before it played ball).
RH bearing cup is more friendly and rotates far easier than the other.
Both cups are RH thread (yes both) hence I would like to see some form of locking mechanism on the LH cup (BB cotters...convince me) !
I have tightened both cups to the extent that the axle would not move, I've then slackened back slightly to allow for rotation with no hidious amount of play (as was the case before).
So, all I've really done is strip it, clean it, grease it, and adjust it - no new parts !
I suspect that the old boy I acquired the bike off (who told me he'd acquired it many years ago before poor health halted restoration) had possibly undone/loosened a few things (not just the BB) and that's as far as it got until Mr Naive came along !
Steve - not completely Gundled !
| All back together and works fine.|
Next job...sort out the original rear 40 spoke rim (fitted at the moment with spare 36 spoke rim).
Steve - next real job...peel the potatoes !