| Anyone have a Raleigh crankset for a Huffy Sportsmen/Raleigh Sports frame? I have the BB and it looks like it's in good shape. Also, any suggestions on where I can get a cottered crank tool to work on this thing without damaging it? Thanks!|
| Can't help on the crankset but I've always supported underneath the crank and used my precision hammer for removing crank cotters...leaving the nut on the thread then using a punch (after removing nut) to see it out the rest of the way.|
If I remember, I loosen the nut the night before, put some penetrating oil around, if things are still tight on the day...out comes the flame thrower to tickle thing along !
| If you like having good tools, check http://bikesmithdesign.com/ for pullers. People like them.|
Do you care whether they have the heron's heads or not?
What condition are you looking for? (Collector bike or daily rider?)
| I have recently purchased this 1971 Triumph bicycle. I was actually looking for a newer Trek or maybe a Schwinn on Craigslist and came across this. I immediately fell in love, not knowing what I was getting into. We have since dismantled the bike in an effort to stop the bits of rust and clean the chrome, etc. Now I'm thinking I should take it to Airglow and have them clean it up for me, but I'm sure that I'm looking at a chunk of change. I want to ride this bike around town and only bought it because I thought it was adorable. I had no idea I was cracking open a whole new hobby. I'm beginning to speak English Three Speed now!|
My question to you is, is it worth it to restore this thing? From what I have learned, the Triumph bike was sort of a red headed step child in the first place so I'm wondering if I'm just putting lipstick on a pig.
| Yes, it's worth it.|
Nice original paint and decals. just clean and polish.
Restore means. New tires and tubes, brake pads and possibly brake cables.
regrease hub bearings.
we can walk you thru it all.
| Bes, you have gotten yourself into something literally magical.....|
| Let me give you the old roads. com tour a bit.|
scroll down, and you'll see a post here by a real old bike gem . Mark stonich, of bikesmith designs, has made a tool to remove the Raleigh ( your bike, as it was made by Raleigh) bottom bracket fixed cup when the pedals cranks are. First, you buy one of his tools and then we help you scare up a set of New, original raleigh bottom bracket cups both the fixed and adjustible cups. this will make the bike fly like new. With gumwall tires, properly inflated and with a bottom bracket overhaul you will be amazed how wonderful this little bike of yours can be.
Parts, finding them will be a bit of a challenge but they are out there. Patience and some money invested it will take but it is well worth it.
fast, fun, stylish.
We can teach you how to overhaul and regrease the headset and we have a lot of experienced, smart, savy collectors the world over who post here and read what is said. You'd be so amazed who all we have here and who you can meet who can help you find anything. We have British bicycle historians, collectors, fans. It's a real good group here. Top Shelf, and First Class!
Ask us anything and we can help you.
Mark can you give the lady your web site address and advise her in buying one of the tools?
This is, if you want to make it ride like new, many times, a regrease is all folks do.
You need a wicker basket for the front. We had a gal stop in here and she carries her dog in the basket.
A safety vest, a bell, a light set for being out at night these things are a must.
| There was merger and Raleigh acquired the triumph name. The bike was made in Nottingham, England in Raleigh's huge plant. So your bike is basically, a b- grade Raleigh. Same moving parts as any other Raleigh. The headset and bottom bracket and both hubs are to be found in ALL the other Raleigh's. |
Ok, so the frame is not the famous and prestigious 531 lightweight tubing, ok, so it does not have fancy lugs like a: The Flying Scot.
lets get this one on the road, and then we can set your sights on something way better. This is worth saving, it's a goer, a good basic bike and collectible and it's in good condition.
With e- bay and the help you can get here and advice and with the gang pointing the way we can take you for a bit of time traveling into the past, Raleigh's past and to other companies, shops, people and places.
Oh, the stuff that was made! bikes, colors, accesories,
lightweight frames and parts, wheels.
Save your nickles and dimes and get ready to venture into the fantastic!
| Chris, |
Thanks so much for the warm welcome! This is going to be such fun!
I don't know–I think my bottom bracket is okay, maybe. It feels pretty smooth. I'm sure it could use a good lookin' at and greasing, but I may escape having to replace it. I will absolutely pick up one of Mark's tools, thanks so much for mentioning it.
I think my biggest worries are in the connection to the hub. I will need some advice on how to get the tension correct. I will probably also need to replace the break cables, but I want the casings to remain white so I'm wondering if I can still buy white ones. They are in good shape, but I wonder if they will make it through a cable replacement. I'm going to buy a nice Brooks saddle for it too, and a basket and bell are a must. And tires, of course.
I named him Fergus. :)
He is currently dismantled and all over my small condo. The frame is in the bedroom, the fenders are on the balcony so the primer that we patched the rust spots with after scrubbing could dry, and the chain guard and something else is in the bathtub where we were scrubbing on it. It's hilarious.
| Those cables look like the ones with the nut on the business end - you could just replace the inner wire and keep the casings original. |
Replacing the casings, too, would require some eBay searching to find the correct color/length to get the same look. New ones don't have the ridges and look kinda cheesy, in my opinion.
I have yet to find a bike I couldn't get back onthe road with new cables, tires, some grease and oil in the BB and hub, and a ton of elbow grease polishing them up.
No big money required.
| The inner wire can be bought at the bike shop. Just the inner wire. You need a special tool to cut the inner wire and cable casing. Use the cable casing that came with the bike. Finding replacent Raleigh cable casing on e- bay is not difficult. ribbed cable casing looks better and is more correct and it is original. White is more easy to find than black and you need the white.|
Don't get timid on me, yes you can function without replacing the bottom bracket cups but in fact the spindle and the two cups now have grooves worn in them and the bottom bracket is the "boiler room" of the bike. The most important part of all. It's not as efficent if it's worn and we need to "lead you over the hill and conquer" and finding a set of bottom bracket cups and a spindle is difficult but not impossible. When you pull the bottom bracket apart the spindle comes out and on it is stamped a code and information that you need to quote and you buy a new spindle as well. it is three parts.
a fixed cup
a adjustible cup
the lock ring that goes on the adjustible cup is usually re-used.
you need 11 1/8 th size ball bearings and now it the time to get acquainted with the green tube of Phil Wood "Phil" grease. (it is green)
These bottom brackets of Raleigh's are sturdy and nice and a sweet dream when worn parts are replaced. We don't need to be all scared anymore because now, we have Mark Stonich's bicycle tool to make it easy.
The adjustible cup can be removed with a drift punch and patience but the fixed cup has a thinner ridge on it and yes, you can remove that with a punch but it is more difficult and the metal chips and dangerous bits fly and so, using a punch on the fixed cup is not so easy. Raleigh made a tool back in the day, long ago and most shops don't have a tool in stock, on the shelf to replace a raleigh bottom bracket cup and with parts difficult to find and rarely does a shop have these in stock on hand to sell you. these parts are collected and hoarded by collectors.
like you would not believe!
To hunt a set of N.O.S. Raleigh cups is like being Indiana Jones and going on a quest.
Yet, it can be done.
When set up, the cranks turn over and over so sweetly.
The headset parts can be re-greased and re- used but then again new headsets are are awesome as well.
Your bicycles parts are the same as found in the famous Raleigh Chopper that has been enjoying a re-surgence so go to the Raleigh Chopper web sites and tell them you need a set of Raleigh Chopper bottom bracket cups. It is the same parts.
Don't loose the parts. Neat to hear you are cleaning it up!
| Great tip on the Chopper! That ought to make it at least a bit easier to find new bottom bracket parts. |
I'm eager to get it road-worthy. I'd like to go ahead and put new tires on it and get the gears to be a bit more functional.
Should I buy tires on the Sheldon site? I'd like to get a set of gum walls. Is that where the cool kids go for English roadster tires?
Also, this guy is awesome. One day, I'll be the female version...(see pic)
Depending on your budget, I’m not sure one of my BB tools for $25 is a good investment for someone who only has one bike it will fit and who may not yet have all the other tools needed to work on bikes. (OTOH They are nice for someone who has several old British bikes and/or works on their friends bikes. :-)
If your cups and spindle are OK, and they usually are, you want to keep them that way. So it’s important to clean them out and freshen up the grease. However, while it’s a little awkward, you can clean out and lube the fixed cup without removing it. A lockring spanner and a 5/8” (or 16mm) open end wrench are usually all you need to remove the adjustable cup.
Where are you located? You may be near someone who has tools such as a cotter press. I’m in Minneapolis.
Triumph and most of Raleigh’s other “B” brands usually had 24 tpi threads in their BB shells rather than “Raleigh” 26 tpi. This is great news if you ever want to upgrade to an alloy crank.
BTW If you really want to drink the 3 speed kool-aid, we have people come from all over the US and Canada for our “3 Speed Tour of Lake Pepin” http://3speedtour.com
If you want to work on the hub, or just find out more about them, I have many links and much 3 speed info in a Word file you can download at http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/SA-Tips.doc
| Bess, |
Sheldon's site is fine for tires.
what Mark said is the typical, service overhaul, that is done these days on these bikes. It comes from not having the bottom bracket tool on hand and also because the bottom bracket parts are not easily available.
if your budget is tight and funds on the low side,
You can function fine by just cleaning it out and regreasing it and by adding new ball bearings. It will be noticably better.
But still, you are keeping old, semi- worn parts and I'll bet these cups and spindles are original.
I still say, replace these parts. It is not that hard to find these.
As for this bike using 24 t.p.i. cups? No. I don't believe that is correct. Everything took Raleigh's 26 t.p.i. cups and by 1971, the Triumph bike was made by Raleigh and so, it used Raleigh's cups.
Pull the cups out and take a picture for us, and we can settle that then.
I have owned enout Triumphs both pre Raleigh and those made by Raleigh. I know.
24 t.p.i. cups are easier to find, yes. Cheaper too. But you'll need to replace it with what came out of it.
Most bike shops will get ahold of you and your bike and run the bill up high and when you pick it up you'll have this huge bill to pay.
I want to guide you along and see you learn this yourself and the money can be spent on acquiring some tools to keep for use on this bike and others.
I will concentrate on sourcing a set of bottom bracket cups. lets do this right.
I want to you enjoy this bike as it was first new.
As a new, English 3 speed bike fan, who comes to us, it is the right thing to do.
Buy the stonich bike tool. Things like this, should not be taken for granted because like the Park cotter pin press, one day it is discontinued and difficult to find and get the use of and/ buy.
Who was that great rock and roll artist who quit writing to go join a Eastern religion? Sometimes the greats leave us.
I have no reason to think Mark might stop offering this tool or leave us and I hope he is with us for a long while but things happen. We waited for this tool he offers so get one. You can always e- bay it later and make your money back. It's a sound investment
We are all still shaken after losing Sheldon Brown.
| $25. 00 to be able to remove it right, is a small price to pay.|
I'm of the opinion "Don't let our new gal be riding on used parts."
Go to a automotive supply store and buy a spray can of automotive brake cleaner. ($4.00) Take it apart and lay a rag underneath it outside and spray in the brake cleaner and flush it out quick and easy. and wipe it with a rag and then lay in some grease in the fixed cup and set in the 11 1/8 size bearings and then do the same to the adjustible cup and re- assemble it. get it back on the road, for now.
I will post again when I have the n.o.s. bracket cups in hand. then we will do this right. In the mean while , buy the Stonich bike tool.
Do we have your e- mail address here?
If you have a used bookstore near you go to the bicycling section and find some cheap paperback books. read them or buy a few but we are here for you and old roads.com is free.
| Well, I've officially scored a new hub on ebay. I think we have the rust under control. I'm not saying it looks good, but it will at least be protected from further rust and therefore ridable once I get it's mechanical parts up and running.|
You can view my "progress" here.
This bike has taken over my small condo, it's pretty funny.
| Ebay #130228423904 |
| I would love that in my shed|
| A Pedersen which is rideable would fetch at least £1500 here in the UK. £2000+ is much nearer a realistic figure for a good one. The racing handlebars mentioned in the description are north road bends or a version thereof.|
If you haven't ridden a Pedresen do have a try if you can. They are a high ride and nothing like a safety or an ordinary. The hamock saddle feels strange initially but improves as you become accustom to it. Getting a Pedersen you size if important as a tall frame will make the experience very unpleasant. Mounting is much the same as an ordinary, push of with one foot on the step attached to the rear axle, then swing the other leg over the saddle and gently sit on the saddle; away you go.
Matthew - priviledged to have been able to try.
| I have inherited at 1964 Raleigh Ross "Armstrong" (says made in England by the Bainbridge Corporation). It has a non-working Sturmy Archer TCW III tricoaster hub. |
I am mechanically challenged, so I am having a bike shop repair it. It it worth it to fix this old hub or should I replace it? I read one post that does not recommend riding this particular hub unless it has 2 good hand brakes. Do you think I should add aftermarket handbrakes, or keep the bike in "original" condition.
It also needs new tires. Any recommendations out there?
| replace it. The whole t.c.w. series were not so hot.|
| You can put any Sturmey- Archer hub in it and it would still be correct.|
Fit a set of hand brakes and go with an a.w. 3 or an f.w. four or anything else.
The rate of braking depended on what gear you were in and well, just swap it out with another rear hub.
| Chris, |
Thank you for you advice. I almost threw this bicycle away! I am so glad I found this informative website. I am really having fun getting this bike back on the road!
| I am about to try swapping the internals of an S5 into an AW hub shell I have already built into a 700c wheel. Any tips or words of wisdom before I strike my first blow?|
It is going into a Dawes Atlantis frame that is already fun to ride converted to a 3 speed but I can't leave well enough alone.
| I've heard that the hub shell needs to be before 84-4 but I've no idea why. |
Only two of our eight S5 equipped bikes have S5 shells. Other than the text on the outside, the shells are identical. You can even put the guts into an old alloy AW, FW or FM shell
Have you already removed the AW guts? If not mark one of the removal notches and an adjacent spoke. Reuse the AW ball ring with the S5 guts. When you reassemble it, if the wheel has a wobble, check to see if the ball ring is 180 degrees off.
Some ball rings don't have the cup perfectly concentric with the threads.
It's such a rare problem Sheldon Brown claimed it was a myth. But I've seen 3 wheels where it made a big difference.
| I forgot to mention you will probably love your S5. |
AW ratios always seem a little to far apart for me, but with an S5 I have the right gear for every situation.
The higher top gear means you can run a larger rear cog, for a low that will pull stumps, without running out of gear at the high end.
| Thanks Mark. Great tip on using the AW ball ring; I was wondering how I was going to mark that.|
| Not the F.M. medium ratio four four That is different. the others you mentioned yes, of course perhaps you meant to say the F.W. wide ratio four speed. |
| No, I meant FM. The shells are identical. It didn't occur to me that someone familiar with the FM wouldn't realize that the left ball cup would need to be swapped for a screw in FW or AW one.|
BTW an alloy shell on an FM is a really bad idea. The low gear pawls can bust the splines out of the left ball ring without a steel shell to support them.
I swapped guts, and left ball rings, between an Alloy FM and a steel FW to avoid this problem in the future.
| Last time I rode with a S5 1st gear was like grinding corn! I am still waiting for this to wear in. Ed|
Something must be wrong with that hub. Jane and I each have 4 bikes with S5s and they are smooth as butter. 4 of them were NOS and we didn't notice any "break in" period.