| Take a look at this one! I love that handlebar curve, notice the red tires, this one has allure, old magic from France!|
E- bay item # 140185236933
Vintage onoto old bike 30's 40's
look it up by the item number
| Certainly different.|
Eeeegad... I think I dinged my Man Card by just looking at it! ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone - I don't surrender.....
| I have what appears to a 60s English Bike. It has Miyata Works Head Badge and Decals. Serial Number 0269310. It has a unique brake levers that run the entire length of the handlebar. It has a generator ran Headlight. Front and rear fenders all say Miyata Works. If anyone know anything about Miyata works or can tell me anything about this bike email me at email@example.com I have posted many pictures at http://www.tjsbikeshop.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2321 check it out and see if you know anything. Thanks in advance Tim |
| Hi Tim,|
It doesn't look very English to me and sure enough, its Japanese.
Miyata is a bicycle manufacturer founded in Japan by Eisuke Miyata. Mr Miyata, a gunsmith employed by the Hitachi Kuni Kasama Clan, built Japan's first conventional, so called modern, bicycle at the Miyata Gun Factory in 1892. Eisuke, who held doubts concerning the future of gun manufacturing in Japan, got the idea for a new bike design after being asked by a foreigner to repair a conventional bicycle.
Late 1970s to mid-1980s Miyata Bikes have high-quality Japanese lugged steel frames and good Shimano or Suntour components . Miyata's are best known for their touring bikes. The model names are most numeric (i.e. Miyata 710). After mid-1980s Miyata started to label them as written numbers (i. e. Miyata Seven Ten).
General rules of thumb for classifying Miyata Bicycle models can be given as follows . 90 and 100 series were sports/entry level bicycles. 200 and 600 series and the 1000 model were touring bicycles, with the level of bicycle increasing with first digit in the series. In general, a 200 series touring bicycle would be roughly equivalent to a 300 series competition/fitness bicycle in terms of component levels, frame materials and value. 300, 400, 500, 700, 900 series were mid-range competition/fitness bicycles. Again, the level of bicycle increasing with first digit in the series. The top line, pro series bicycles were generally given names, like Team Miyata and Pro Miyata. 1000 series and X000 series bicycles, with the notable exception of the 1000 touring model, were competition/fitness models with non-ferrous frames.
What you appear to have is obviously earlier than 1970 with rod brakes, that's hwy it has 'brake levers that run the entire length of the handlebars', much like any other rod braked bike.
I hope the info is helpful. Most of it came from Wikipedia.
Matthew - not turning Japanese; I don't think so?
| I had a miyata 210, it was a very good bike. I threw it out like a nitwit and it was many years later I was trash picking three blocks over from home and I rescued it from the garbage truck and I rode and kept it for a while from there.|
Japanese, very well built.
| Typical Japanese built roadster. It appears to be single speed with the ubiquitous (in Japan) roller brake. THese are everywhere in Japan, but not often seen in the US.|
| Thanks for all the info guys. Anyone know what its worth?|
| We need to see a photo of the bike, first. Be patient|
| Chris there's a link to a photo in the original message.|
Matthew - here to help?
| Being in the packaging development game... I rather like this machine:|
Though "Cardboard" is a misnomer.... the material of construction would be Corrugated Paperboard.
And heaven help him if he ever gets caught riding it in the rain.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - corrugations paralell to the LENGTH dimension please!
| Hi: My father-in-law has his original 1953 Raleigh Sport with the Dynohub lighting system. Does anyone know of a repair/parts source for these? The lens is missing from the headlamp and the red plastic from the taillamp is gone. Bulbs gone. I'm not even sure it works anymore because the wires to the hub are disconnected .|
| Apologies in advance but don't read the following unless you're really bored or intrigued by the secret world of the lessor spotted 3/16" chain (as opposed to the easily accessible and far more sociable 1/8" version).|
Having rectified my BB problems (you probably couldn't write that line on any other site bar this one or maybe a serious and very painful medical experiment site) over the weekend which incidentally made me feel like Einstein, Brunel and Fred Dibnah rolled into one, I've now opened the "can of worms" again...chain reaction I suppose !
Anyhow, my excitement was curtailed during "sea trials" when I noticed, felt, heard the mechanical ride quality.
On investigation I noticed that less than 25% (or 90 degrees) of chainwheel teeth actually had links sitting in "the valleys", the remaining usable 25% plus of chainwheel had loose/floating links "wobbling" on top of the teeth.
No problem...I'll try my spare 3/16" chain, adjust tensions etc etc.
Result...spare 3/16 chain (although slightly wider total profile) gave exactly the same results.
.........adjusting tensions doesn't/didn't change anything because the first 25% (90 degrees) or so of chainwheel still engages the chain - the chain then forms it's own "ripple effect" thus putting it out of "pitch line" throughout the remaining 25% (90 degrees) of chainwheel hence the rough riding and unpleasant sound effects.
I've since measured 12" sections of both chains and noticed that they are both at least 1/8" longer than what they should be !
So, my chains may not be as useful as I thought they were, one could argue (and I fully appreciate this) that worn sprocket and chainwheel teeth also come into the equation.
The bottom line is...very old and well used/abused chain will not go on forever and I think the time has come for me to source NEW replacement 3/16" chains.
Apologies once again to you folks who've been down this road many moons ago, but I get a great learning satisfaction out of this hobby...even when things are not going quite to plan.
I've since borrowed a known/good 3/16" chain off probably my most together bike with the result that the once "sick bike" now desperately needs a bell...as it whispers along like a "good un" unless you freewheel of course !
Steve - Sourcing 3/16" chain producer(s).