| Hi: I have a Raleigh DL-1, 1970's retrofitted with a full chaincase and top tube shifter, with no transfers. I'd like to apply all the transfers that would have gone on a 1930's "Popular Model 1" roadster, but don't know which ones to order (from Lloyd's?)or where they would be applied.|
Any help would be MUCH appreciated! Mike
| The original DARE grips on my Raleigh Sports may need to be replaced. The right hand grip has split along the mold seam on the inside portion of the grip. I've used a little rubber adhesive to hold it together for now but I know from experience that the glue bond may not hold up for long. So, what would be a good grip to use as a replacement? A look-a-like to the original DARE or something completely different like the newish Brooks grips? Your input would be greatly appreciated. TJ. |
| Try to find a similar replacement. My experiences with NOS Dare grips is that they split very rapidly with use , even after soaking them in solvents/chemicals to soften and expand them|
Check out Harris Cyclery's French versions. They're nice and squishy, I have a pair.
Way back when I bought a really nice pair of gray grips sold by P.C. Kohler. He still around? Man, those are the nicest grips I've ever used on my '57 Sports.
| Alonzo- Thanks for your input. I'd seen these before on the Harris site and was thinking that they may be a good option. Didn't but them back then as I didn't have the need at the time. Now I'll have to seriously consider them. Thx again, Thom. |
| I love the old Schwinn cushion grips, the ones with the air chamber down the top. More than once I have bought a bike at the Goodwill or Sally just to get a pair of those grips.|
| Schwinn exercise bikes usually have the black cushion grips. I have bought them $3, $4 and $5 at rummage sales, just for the heavy black saddles, grips and front rim.|
| I love these Dare grips these are magical and they even came in white!|
| I thought I would have a delve into a Pashley headset/headtube earlier today to see why there was a massive amount of play at the handlebars.|
I was thinking along the lines of dissintegrated bearings etc.
Slackened off the relevant parts hoping that I could cheat by not removing the handlebars and simply "stick in" some replacement bearings on nice fresh grease.
I was quite surprised to see a caged bearing in situ (top and bottom), all the other bikes I've dealt with over the last twelve months or so have all had loose/individual bearings.
Is this common practice on latter day Roadster clones (and their derivatives) or is it purely a makers design preference.
I have also noticed that the mice have been nibbleing at the front inner collar of the top bearing cup (something I've never noticed before).
Bike is ex Ministry of Defence (Maintenance Dept...of all places), hence I was just wondering if someone had placed caged bearings in there at some stage (by error or desperation).
I've attached a photo for your perusal (there's another one in Readers Rides).
Obviously, I'm going to replace the parts but ideally I would like to know for sure what were the original fitments.
Any ideas ?
Steve - haven't lost my bearings yet !
| seen them both ways--even on english bikes.60s T.D.Cross headsets used caged bearings.Really all caged bearing do is reduce the number of balls needed and also make the build up easer.But when you reduce the number of balls,you reduce the contact area too.---sam|
| Sam is right on the money! The cages can cause problems as well. I avoid caged bearings as a matter of practice.|
| I must confess, I do feel uneasy about the caged bearings in the head tube, it's not helped by the fact that I can see wear marks (a sure sign that it's been defective for some time) on the inner wall of the top bearing cup.|
As the profile of this bearing cup is different to the usual grooved bearing cups, I wonder if it would be wise at this stage to replace this set-up with the usual "loose bearing" grooved type of cup set-up.
Presuming that the relevant diameters and threads match-up, does anyone foresee a problem with this ?
This is potentially a fine bike, I've just got to get rid of that awful "rowing machine" action !
Steve - photo attached
| After much messing about with caged bearings, loose bearings, a variety of top and bottom cups, the problem was with the thread in the top cup (but only when cup touched tops of bearings).|
I've got 1/8th caged bearings in at the moment (but I'm tempted to try 3/16") with an unknown top cup that appears to be doing the job - it doesn't look pretty but it's effective !
| What I am seeing is a fairly standard head bearing set, worn out. The balls were probably 5/32 inch, thread 1 inch by 24 tpi. As far as I can tell from the photos.|
| It's no use !|
It doesn't look pretty, it looks ugly (to me anyway), so I'm going to take it apart again for the umpteenth time and try the other size bearings with a N.O.S. headset as opposed to used but o.k. !
Steve - keeping calm !
| This... while somewhat disturbing... is also quite amazing....|
Larry "Boneman" Bone - footloose.... not in the least...
| Hi larry,|
It was amazing but more enlightening were the comments posted by readers which ranged from admiration and surprise to bigoted ignorance. The gent has adapted to use what he has and does it well. His race, creed and skin colour have nothing to do with overcoming such a significant disability.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention.
Matthew - this world is quite amazing
| Agreed Matthew. That fellow adapted amazingly well for certain. Quite something what "motivation" will do for you.|
As to the comments posted... Methinks oft times we get a little... I dunno... let's just say that this board here has got to be one of the most civilized that I've ever experienced.
Perhaps we could edify the ignorant by... immobilizing their hands for a week... see how well they tend to such simple task as... say... EATING... never mind mending punctured inner tubes, eh?
Glad you found it of interest.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - always amazed....
| Rebuilding an older Raleigh Sport front hub. Cones are shot. Going thru my spares, I have a couple of axles with cones that are Raleigh threading but the OD of the cone is considerably smaller than the orig. Raleigh cone OD. This leaves a pretty healthy gap for dirt to get in the hub. Dist covers fron other cones I have will not work. Any suggestions for "closing the gap"? Anyone have a spare set of Raleigh cones that they would turn loose of? |
| Pipe cleaners work in a pinch for sealing up the gap...|
| felt rings keeps the grease in.|
| Thanks, I had not thought of either of those options.|
| Robert I have polished out a number of cones that were bad. Put the axle in a high speed drill and use your imagination. I've used emery cloth and paper around a dowel, steel rod etc, and finish it off with real fine paper. Worked for me. Ted|