AGE / VALUE:for sale bicycle collection plus books posted by: paul on 8/17/2008 at 2:21:54 PM
Because of chronic illness, selling the following: 1942 Compax Traveler/ 1965 Rudge Sport/ 1976 Bickerton $150 each firm by bank money order or cash.
two boxes of hardcover books, soft cover books, pamphlets, and assorted paperwork dealing with collecting, restoring, repairing classic bicycles...$25 each box. local pick-up only,HOWEVER packing, insuring and shipping is up to the buyer who negotiates and pays for shipping with one of the local bike shops in southeastern,MA. Pic's available on request. Thanks!.....paul in Abington,MA
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   RE:AGE / VALUE:for sale bicycle collection plus books posted by Drew on 8/17/2008 at 2:43:00 PM
Paul, What is the frame size on your Rudge Sport, other details ? sorry to hear of your illness.

Drew
by: 72.93.31.243

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:for sale bicycle collection plus books posted by Christopher on 8/18/2008 at 10:48:40 AM
sorry to hear of your illness.
by: 161.226.4.6






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bearings posted by: Steve on 8/17/2008 at 1:43:43 PM
Based on cost only, I think I know the answer to this question but :-

Hardened Chrome Steel or Carbon Steel balls...what are the plus and minus's of both types (apart from cost) ?

I've got to the stage now where only the best will do (on my old bikes)...a cheapo, poor quality, short life throw away bike would get the appropriate bearings...if it ever needed them !

While we're at it though, what's the consensus on oil or grease in the bottom bracket ?

Any advice much appreciated.

Steve - still learning
by: 93.96.36.127


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Bearings posted by Matthew on 8/17/2008 at 3:04:43 PM
Get the best balls you can afford Steve and then you won't be groping around in the BB any more. Most of your bikes have 50 year old bearings still doing the job so replacing the replacements won't be your job!

Grease. Castrol low melting point is what you want in half kilo pots. Keep it clean and it will last for ages. You can add oil to lubricate every now and then but not as the mian ingredient.

Matthew - others will have their opinions too.
by: 81.107.219.44

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Bearings posted by sam on 8/17/2008 at 4:39:51 PM
I agree with Matthew---sam
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   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bearings posted by Steve on 8/18/2008 at 11:09:16 AM
Thanks Gents.

I have to confess that I don't have a micrometer, but most bearings I remove from BB's look to be in remarkable condition...not bad considering that they could be 50 plus years old (that's presuming that they haven't been changed at some time).

Having said that...the sideways "slap" in the chainwheel is obviously there for a reason !

Do BB axle's ever wear out ?

Bike I'm really refering to is a recent find in a hedge !

Steve - living in the past time (J. Tull)
by: 93.96.36.127

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bearings posted by Chris on 8/18/2008 at 12:14:44 PM
Yes, bottom bracket axles (spindles) do wear out. They develop a "groove" on them, and that's ok as long as there is no spots of "pitting" but pitting does occur and then , it is time to replace the spindle.
by: 161.226.4.6

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bearings posted by Keith Body on 8/18/2008 at 12:30:58 PM
Chris is right, most BB axles and cups are case hardened, varying depth, perhaps .2 mm. Both wear through the hardened surface, by overtightening and lack of lubrication, or here (UK) by rainwater. If your chainwheel has some side movement and as soon as you adjust the bottom bracket cup it goes tight then you have grooves on the axle and cups. If you only ride small mileages it probably doesn't matter.
by: 195.93.21.98

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Bearings posted by Steve on 8/18/2008 at 4:10:35 PM
Thanks all.

I will analyse the original parts tomorrow, the only thing I noticed late last night after removal was TDC No14 stamped on the axle...and the difference in length between a trade bike and my wifes "standard" 1960 Raleigh bike axle (the one that got bent when she got knocked off her bike a few months ago).

Steve

by: 93.96.36.127






AGE / VALUE:1969 Raleigh pedals ? posted by: Mike T. on 8/16/2008 at 5:32:18 AM
What are the correct peddals for a 1969 Sports - mine has the solid with an oval shape to it, Raleigh logo on the center of the rubber block, chromed edge band with reflectors. I've seen several 1969 Sports with this pedal and in the 1969 Raleigh catalog...it looks like the sports has this type of pedal but have been told these are exercise bike pedals ? This seems odd since exercise bike pedals would not need reflectors ?
by: 72.93.31.243


   RE:AGE / VALUE: 1969 Raleigh pedals ? posted by Matthew on 8/16/2008 at 5:55:44 AM
Hi Mike,

I'm not well up on Sports models but the pedals you describe are Raleigh products from the right period. I have seen similar pedals on Twentys and RSW models so they could be original equipment. When it comes to what looks good on a Sports, these pedals wouldn't be my choice.

Matthew - peddling my own ideas.
by: 86.31.33.226

   RE:AGE / VALUE:1969 Raleigh pedals ? posted by David on 8/16/2008 at 8:49:12 AM
These pedals were indeed used on Sports models and they're awful. I understand they don't even have ball bearings.
by: 216.15.114.27

   RE:AGE / VALUE: 1969 Raleigh pedals ? posted by Matthew on 8/17/2008 at 3:10:10 PM
Hi David & Mike,

Yes, I wasn't going to say this, but they were horrid pedals. My Triumph (20) Trafficmaster had these pedals and no amount of lubrication would make them spin. I replaced them with a pair of Union pedals without reflectors but with ball bearings. The change transformed the bike.

Matthew - revolutionary?
by: 81.107.219.44

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: 1969 Raleigh pedals ? posted by Chris on 8/18/2008 at 10:55:10 AM
The Raleigh company caught all hell for those aweful pedals. It was a big deal. People wrote in to the Cyclist Touring Club (the C.T.C.) pages and into Cycling magazine's comment pages in England and bicycle dealers and their customers wrote in and called them up with complaints, en masse- about those pedals!

Raleigh R.S.W. 16's had white curvy pedals. but the Union Germany made reflective pedals bearing the Raleigh heron stamp in the center is correct for your bike.
They are nice pedals.
by: 161.226.4.6






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raleigh vs. "Phillips" front hubs posted by: David Poston on 8/15/2008 at 8:35:51 PM
I noticed that some front hubs (e.g., Raleigh) have a "shoulder" on the outside where they sit in the fork slots, while some other front hubs don't. What's the difference? Are the hubs with the "shoulder" supposed to sit in a fork with round slots? I noticed the hub on my 1950s New Hudson roadster does NOT have the "shoulder" and has more narrow slots, not rounded fork slots.

Someone please clarify this for me.

Also, would a Raleigh and New Hudson (Phillips make?) front hub use the same ball races and ball bearings? i.e., would the parts be interchangeable?

thanks
David
by: 98.197.76.232


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raleigh vs. posted by Mike on 8/16/2008 at 5:28:26 AM
David, I'm not sure what the difference is but my 1955 Indian Princes by Philips has the shoulder + an oiler.
This info likey offers no answers to your question, but just an observation.

When id Philips stop production of Indian Princeses and end all production on the philips ?
by: 72.93.31.243

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Raleigh vs. posted by Matthew on 8/16/2008 at 5:59:36 AM
A little research tell me this;

Phillips Cycles Ltd. was a British bicycle manufacturer based in Smethwick near Birmingham, England. Its history began early in the 20th century and ended in the 1980s by which time it had become part of Raleigh Industries, itself a part of the Tube Investments group. For a number of years, the company was the second-largest bicycle producer in Britain, after Raleigh. The company motto, which was carried on all its badges, was "Renowned the World Over". The "Phillips" brand is still used around the world, especially in China and the Far East, having been licensed by Raleigh.

You often come across brand new Phillips cycle trailers on eBay.

Matthew - if eBay was for retired folks would it be eBeige?
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   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Raleigh vs. posted by David Poston on 8/16/2008 at 7:11:28 AM
Do you think front hub parts are interchangeable? I mean--can you swap the nuts/races from a Raleigh hub to a BSA/New Hudson or Phillips hub? Do they all take the same number of 3/16" bearings?


by: 98.197.76.232

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raleigh vs. posted by David on 8/16/2008 at 8:52:24 AM
Some of the hubs have a shoulder like you describe as a retention device. It fits in a matching circular fork end - you spread the fork a little to clear the shoulder and it drops out. See Sheldon Brown's article on old Raleighs for many such little features.
by: 216.15.114.27

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Raleigh vs. posted by Keith Body on 8/16/2008 at 11:46:35 AM
David, Your question has been answered, it really depends on the front fork ends. Most british front hubs have three sixteenth inch balls, the front spindle five sixteenths by 26 TPI. The preferred method was on Raleigh forks with solid ends, the outer nuts having a shoulder that went into a recess on the fork ends. The type with "trapped ends" were cheaper and some makers did what you describe to help locate the front wheel. The R/H cone is normally screwed tight on to a shoulder on the spindle, and the left is for bearing adjustment. This is a cruder method than the better Raleigh with a cone lock nut either side of the hub.
New Hudson were part of the BSA group which was taken over by Raleigh. Apart from variations in fork ends the only front hubs that were not five sixteenth by 26 TPI were the later hub brakes and dynohubs, and possibly tradesmans delivery bikes.
Cone bearings are not too critical, as long as they are near in diameter.

by: 195.93.21.98






ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3" Grips for rod brake bars posted by: Mike on 8/13/2008 at 6:59:24 AM
Hi all: I have a pair of rod brake bars and would like at pair of black 3" grips. Does anyone have a pair or a solution. The Eastman India bikes have such grips, but I cannot find just the grips (Yellow Jersey doesn't have any).

Please help!

Mike
by: 71.192.166.40