| I know that Webb made girder forks for British Roadsters. They also made these for motorcycles as well. However I have not seen a picture of the bicycle version. Can somebody post one if they have them?|
Also, does anyone know if anyone made truss rods for a 26" tire roadster?
| Scroll down a bit and you will find the e- mail address for Bruce Robbin's that sam gave us. e- mail Bruce, buy a copy of the brown brothers c.d. that he sells|
pop that into your computer and you will see the web forks you are mentioning. then go and look for one for sale.
the Brown Brothers catalog was the "mother of all wish books" or the "vintage bicycle Bible"
| Hi Folks,|
Once again Chris is 'right on the money' here. The Brown Brothers catalogue was an incredible publication. Where else could you find frame tubing, lugs, bottom brackets, forks, racks, wheel rims / spokes / hubs all listed as separate parts ; available individually, by the dozen or by the gross (144 at a time). The illustrations alone are works of art. I sincerely hope the Science Museum, British library and the Smithsonian institute all have a copy or two.
Matthew - books a place of comfort and learning.
| I have a set on the staton motobike I just built.It was built using a 1938 Melvern Star frame with webb forks.In a few days I'll try and up load some Pics of the forks|
| Thanks Sam-|
I look forward to your photos.
| Guys Check this out;|
Now if only we could locate Ol P.C. and get him writing about British iron.....
| Bruce Robbins|
| You've gotta love the British bike industry. Included with my 50's parts manual is exactly what David wants to see in the post below.|
Looks like the only difference between an AW hub and the Dyno-3-speed AG is two parts! Except for the dyno parts, of course.
The left-hand ball cup and the left-hand axle cone with dust cap have different numbers. And these are only found on drum brake AB hubs.
So, we should be able to service an AG with the AW parts at Harris Cyclery. That's good, 'cause I have an AG I'd like to take apart.
I find that the only parts I've ever had to replace were pawl springs and chipped pawls. And once I had to replace a driver that had pitted races. Never saw anything else broken in the 12 or 15 AW hubs I've re-built.
| A.W. 3 speed clutches,clutch keys are cheap and are usually replaced while you have the beast opened up on the operating table it is the perfect time. |
| The bright side of Houston having been wrecked by Hurricane Ike is that I've had the whole week off work...time to work on restoring my 1952 Phillips roadster that has been languishing in the garage...|
I'm currently trying to work up the courage to disassemble the rear AG dynothree hub on the bike to get it in tip-top shape. I've tried loosening the left hand cone, but the hub seems to run a bit stiff. I spin the wheel and it comes to a stop after 3 revolutions or so. What gives? It also feels as if there is some drag--is this being caused by the dynohub magnet? It almost seems as if the hub is trying to drag the dynohub along with it. So...advice? Would disassembling the hub and putting new grease and/or bearings help it run more smoothly? I do have Glenn's Bicycle Manual handy...However, I've never disassembled an SA hub, much less a dynohub and am scared that parts might fall off and never get back on...Should I get spare parts for replacing the worn ones? Can I get by with just lubricating or replacing the cone bearings and leaving the rest of the hub intact?
I do have a 1965 AW hub lying around that I was going to practice on but for some odd reason it doesn't have any flats on the left hand side so I can't figure out how I would unscrew the right hand ball cup.
What should I do?
| I just noticed that Harris Cyclery sells replacement parts for AW hubs. Which parts should I replace? Will these parts work with my 1952 AG dynohub? Will the quality be as good as what I already have? |
Can I get by with not separating the internals, just cleaning the surfaces with kerosene and applying oil to the internals, grease to the bearings/races?
thanks in advance for your help
| See my post above David. Be aware that the modern AW hubs have some different or improved parts and may not fit your AG. You could always use an older AW for parts.|
| Take care not to turn it the wrong way upside down and have those pawl pins fall out and thus loose the little springs that hold the pawls in place.|
I learned how to tear apart and lube an AW using info from Tony Hadland's site:
If you scroll down, he's got the AG hub listed as well. These are original S/A instruction manuals written for folks like us.
Yes, you might have a pawl pin fall out, but with the manual, you'll be able to figure out how to put it back!
I've learned a couple things. One is use only cycle oil to clean the parts, rather than harsh degreasers. From what I've read (hubstripping.com), the degreasers remove the helpful film that's been on these parts from the start.
At the risk of re-starting another go-round regarding which oil to use in a S/A hub, I vote for Weld-Tite Cycle Oil. I ordered it through my LBS since Sturmey Archer oil is no longer available. The Weld-Tite product is British-made and comes in a bottle the exact shape as the most recent Sturmey Archer plastic bottles. Even down to the annoying and useless cap. Might very well be the same stuff!
Further revealing my inner bike nerd, I offer this question to all you out there brave enough to read this far:
What kind of grease did Raleigh use in these hubs? Was it lithium-based or poly urea grease, and does it matter which one?
Have fun David.
| Yes, an AG will have a ton of drag from the magnets. It 'chugs' as each magnet passes. Be very careful about removing the Dynahub - if that magnet drops out the thing is shot. The hub is lubed with 20 weight oil, so replacing the grease doesn't do all that much after some miles. The oil will just wash it out anyway.|
| Hi Folks,|
I would use an LM Grease such as Castrol LM. It is a low melting point grease and over time and summer weather it will ooze but very unlikely that the less viscous oil in the hub will wash the grease out.
The drag on an AG hub is considerably less than the drag of a 'bottle' dynamo. Given the leverage that a 26" or even a 20" wheel has from the axle the resistance to turning is quite low. You can turn an AG hub by hand even when it is not assembled into a wheel. If you can't then it is a bearing problem not a generator problem. Some of the biggest advantages of the dynohub is its free rolling ability and ease of use.
I hope this adds usefully to the information above.
Matthew - spinning along.
| Thanks all for the replies.|
1. So you are saying that kerosene (paraffin) should not be used for cleaning the parts? Glenn's Bicycle manual says to use solvent and then blow dry the parts with compressed air. I've been using kerosene to clean bottom brackets, headsets, front hubs, with good results (although the stuff smells pretty bad).
2. Regarding grease, from what I've read in some of the SA manuals posted online, grease could/should be put in the ball races only. I've read elsewhere that grease should be put in the dust cap groove only. What's the consensus here?
3. Regarding drag on the AG dynohub, does this mean that you CAN'T test the cone tightness by spinning the wheel like you normally do with a standard AW hub and wait for the valve to settle on the bottom? Will the magnet always bring the wheel to a halt after 3-4 revolutions, making it seem that the LH cone is overtightned?
I used to run a front dynohub in the winter, practically no drag until the lights were switched on. The "armature" (the part the wires are connected to) was removed and gently given a little more clearance from the magnet by tapping with a light hammer, plus a little filing of the high spots. Also sometimes the dirt builds up. Never had a problem with a magnet when removed. Also mal-adjustment of the cones can make the "armature" drag on the magnet cover. My front dyno has a BH quick release, 12 ounce rim, and 10 ounce tubular tyre for winter use. About 20 years since it was used.
Cone adjustment: feel just a small movement sideways at the rim, and reduce by adjustment to a minimum.
My local cycle shop has now closed, I have not forgotten your rod brake guide.
You could not be in better hands! read and follow the advice and links to the web sites!
As for the oil question, I use the singer sewing machine oil because like the original Sturmey Archer cycle oil it does not gum up the pawls. I discovered the "Phil tenacious oil" in the green bottle from Phil Wood sold in some local bike shops. I use it in lubricating the 3 and 4 speed trigger shifters. It's better than anything else. also in chains, and bearings but not in the sturmey- Archer hubs there, you use the Singer sewing machine oil.
We are blessed to have Keith here with us. Hey Keith, can you buy up the old back inventory of that now closed bicycle shop so it does not get thrown away? can you save the contents of the shop?
Keith, can you describe what types or brands or versions of grease that Raleigh and Sturmey- Archer used back in the day?
We are currious as we see it gummed up and dried. It is brownish today, was it brownish originally? what brand did they use? The grease is a bit of a mystery to us youngster "Raleighites". Thanks!
| I would recommend parts cleaner solvent and advise you to steer away from Kerosene. You can really hurt yourself with some solvents.|
parts cleaner solvent from an auto parts store is best.
Never ever use gasoline to clean bike parts.
| Hi Chris, The local shop was only there 20 years. Nothing in old stuff. |
I am trying to remember what was in the raleigh hubs when we opened them back in the 1950's. I think the bottom bracket and hubs had very little light grease, users were supposed to apply some light oil, but rarely did so.
Campagnolo introduced a white water absorbing grease in the late 1950's, with hard chrome surface hub cones.
| As for oil, I have been using genuine S-A oil. (I have about 6 tins of it stashed in my garage).|
As for grease, I have Phil Wood waterproof grease (in a green squeeze tube). Will this suffice for the bearings in the AG hub?
One thing on greasing hub bearings--the AG hub instructions say to only grease the dust cap groove in the driver and the groove in the RH ball ring. The AW hub instructions say to grease the LH ball races as well.
Elsewhere (under general instructions?), it says to apply grease to bearing surfaces, but nowhere else. Glenn's bicycle manual says to work a generous amount of grease in the ball cages (L and R) and a small amount of grease in the RH ball ring where the 24 loose bearings sit.
Should I go with Glenn's?