| My back is aching and I'm getting tired of balancing bikes on the kitchen chairs, not to mention holding bikes in the air with one hand whilst trying to perform highly complicated technical operations (undoing nuts) with the other hand.|
My wife and children are not too pleased with me as they eat their spaghetti bolognese standing up whilst staring at a rusty old bike spread across the kitchen table with the life saving surgical tools of a magician precisely positioned on each kitchen chair...they think I'm being unfair !
I advised them that they have a shed with a bench out in the garden...and all of a sudden I was covered in spaghetti.
No, the time has come for serious action, and I'm thinking...cycle maintenance stand.
I've never had one, I've always struggled (and succeeded).
Am I going soft or am I maturing (at long last) and doing the sensible thing (I suspect a bit of both) !
What is the consensus on these, I have seen them advertised in various places (as well as in shops), will the free standing type have the stability and strength to hold a fully loaded 28" Roadster or a Trade bike (cycle truck) firmly, without fear of collapse or do you have to go the "whole hog" and bolt one to the ground ?
I do have a somewhat congested garage where I could secure it to the ground if I had to, but I do like the idea of a stand that is "mobile", that would allow me to bring it down to the house on cold winter evenings and set it up in the kitchen whilst keeping an eye on the spaghetti to make sure it doesn't boil over...no no no no no !
Steve - my backs aching !
| I used one of these Park bench mount stands...|
You can fix it permanantly to a wall stud in the basement or bolt a piece of hardwood blocking on the bottom and mount it in a bench vise or one of those portable workmates if you want to move outside. Mines lasted 15 years and still going strong. Make sure your blocking gives you enough clearance to rotate the pedals
| Yes, a stand like the Park stand. The free standing ones are very sturdy. They will work on almost any bike. Fold up quite nicely for transport. I also have one of the cheaper ones that hold by the bottom bracket. It works great for some bikes but not at all for others. Doesn't work well with any of my bikes with side stands. |
| After years of wrestling with bicycles, I finally bought a used Park stand for $40. It's the portable kind that stands on the floor, and it's great. I can turn and lock the clamp so that it grips the crossbar or the downtube. It's really handy when I'm adjusting cables and derailleurs and I need to turn the pedals. It also keeps me from messing up the brake cables, as I used to do when I turned a road bike upside down on the floor. My little stand doesn't take up much room and it has paid for itself already. I wish I'd bought one 10 years ago! |
| I've managed to acquire a used PCS10 (I think that was the model number).|
Should do nicely, the only fiddly bit so far is actually lifting the bike into the clamp/jaw whilst turning the jaw screw with your other hand, otherwise it's looking good.
Thanks for advice...just need a tea machine to attach to the side of it now !
| Matthew's good intentions notwithstanding, I am too old to switch from my cleaner of choice of more than 30 years running, good old lacquer thinner.|
First reason, it cleans and degreases fantastically efficiently.
Second, it leaves no oily residue and it darn well leaves no after smell, either on the parts or on me like kero or diesel does.
That second is what got me using it in the first place, I just don't like the kero/fuel oil kinds of smells that linger sometimes for days.
Thirdly, while the stuff will of course burn, it's flash or flame danger has never become an issue in my indoor use.
I tried one gallon of white gas (Coleman lantern fuel) and while it does sorta degrease and is a whole 5-bucks/gal cheaper than lacquer thinner, the results just aren't worth saving the fiver.
I have given the modern orange and green-colored products a fair try and find them to be pathetic compared to the results gotten with laq thinner.
BTW, for old Chicago Schwinns I can even use the laq thinner safely on the painted parts. I can't do that on the English bikes' painted parts without softening and dulling the paint. Less aggressive solvents are definitely in order for the painted parts of our Raleighs et al.
| "White Gas"... wow... I've not heard that in a long time. Actually... before gasoline was "modernized"... I used to run regular unleaded in the Coleman equipment. 'Twas pretty much the same... as white gas and a damn sight cheaper.|
Lacquer thinner is pretty tough stuff on grease... and will also, given time, dissolve EPOXY finishes as well. I would not use that at all if what I'm cleaning is painted... or propinquitous to painted surfaces.
Personally I use different solvents for different things and do try to be conscious of the environmental impact of same.
Not real keen on kero / paraffin except for the cleaning of chains... both bicycle and motorbike. It does have some limited lubrication as well as barrier properties. Intersting note... O-ring chains on motorbikes... they say to use kero to clean them.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - to us here... paraffin is actually candle wax... ;-)
| I kid you not about the following.|
Many years ago when dealing with small parts, I used to place the parts to be cleaned in individual sealable plastic containers (filled with the appropriate cleaner...I do admit to using GUNK), I then used to attach the containers to branches on TREES in my garden in order for the earths natural resources i.e. WIND to rock the tree gently hence the parts were getting a continuous cleansing for as many days as required...it always worked.
Problems arose when I wanted to clean chunky parts...neighbours don't take too kindly to seeing 50 litre containers hanging from a tree (a very large tree) !
I once hung a VW Beetle floorpan (minus axles) up a tree at the bottom of my garden in order to paint it...I only did it once !
Steve - I love trees !
| Joyce Kilmer.... smiles approvingly.|
Larry "Boneman" Bone - I just so happened to be UP a tree not one half hour ago....
| "I think that I shall never see" answers and asides as lovely as Larry's.|
| I didn't know of Joyce Kilmer.|
From parts cleaning to a poet in the trenches of the First World War !
That's quite something (and quite a sad story).
Steve = Cedars are great !
| The cleanest parts are out of the ultrasonic parts cleaner found at one of my favorite bike shop haunts.|
| Chris's method FTW here.... I can only imagine....|
Additional aside: I used to fly model aircraft off the Joyce Kilmer Parade Ground in Edison, NJ.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - Ultrasonics.... awesome.
| I am lucky enought to work in a town where there are numerous old English bicycles in circulation. Today I saw several of the usual suspects, a lovely gold Dunelt, a Rudge ten-speed, a nice green Sports with punmp and bag, and the forlorn remains of a single-speed from around 1960, locked to a tree with its rear wheel stolen (why anybody would steal a single-speed coaster wheel from this bike is a mystery to me). At the library I saw a Pashley Princess, obviously in near-new condition. What a great-looking machine! It has a bow frame like an old female DL-1 Raleigh, alloy rims and hubs, gearcase, skirt guard for the spokes, a 5-speed SA rear hub and hub brakes front and rear. It's a nice dark green like an old Superbe, with matching green alloy rear carrier and Brooks leather saddle. I'll bet it wasn't cheap.|
| I'm curious what brand you guys are using for replacement chains. Harris Cyclery doesn't seem to sell any black ones that look traditional. Everything these days are all silver or worse--gold, blue, or pink! I was told by someone at Harris that the old chains were black b/c they were made of inferior steel, but Renolds chains never struck me as inferior.|
BTW, this is for my Phillips bike which doesn't have an enclosed chaincase, so the chain will be rather visible.
| Then don't go to Harris. Buy chain off of e- bay, or from another place on the web. Today, bicycle chain comes in all sorts of hideous colors.|
| Good heavens, Google is your friend. KMC sells 1/8" black chain, and brown too for that matter. Quite inexpensive, around $5 maybe at Niagara Cycle dot com.|
| KMC also sells 3/16" chain, but I only got it in silver...beggers can't be choosers !|
| (I'm continuing my AG dynohub thread from below b/c it is getting towards the bottom of the page)|
I've got the hub apart and been able to inspect the internals (haven't yet tried taking apart the pawls). Everything looks pretty clean and well oiled. I am thinking to just leave things as they are but just clean the bearings and bearing surfaces. Just a couple additional questions:
1. Is it just me, or is the dust cap on the driver nearly impossible to pry off without damaging it or the ball retainer that is underneath? Can I get by just cleaning the retainer in situ and greasing it as it sits? (I did get the dust cap off the RH ball ring).
2. The AG dynohub manual says only to put grease in two places: a) the dust cap of the driver and b) the recess of the RH ball ring. (The AW manual says to also put grease in LH ball ring, while the general maintenance directions for Sturmey Archer hubs says to put grease on bearings). Surely I can apply to grease to all bearings and bearing surfaces?