| Found a vintage roadster looking bicycle in the trash. It's a 3 speed girls bike made by Sportcrest, Monterey is the model. After blowing off the dust, this bike is in excellent condition. Just trying to get some history if anyone can help? Thanks in advance. |
| What's your favorite method of repainting that white patch? I've done many repaints before with cheap white spray paint, but I want to do it right this time. Somehow the spray paint job doesn't quite match the original--did they use spray or brush? Tell us if you use brush, spray, and what brand of paint.|
| I mask off the patch and use a spray on type paint. Usually try to not get it to be too glossy.|
What does help is to grind off any rust... backfill any deep scratches with filler or primer... sand it all smooth and then shoot it.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - I love them white-tails.
What's your favorite brand of paint? I've been using Rustoleum so far. Would you use flat, semi-gloss, or gloss?
| to get it right it's important to know how the mudguard was originally painted.was it taped off or dip painted.you'll never get a dipped guard right using tape.|
| Believe it or not... Dupli-Colour Arctic White DSGM 138.|
It did a fine job.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - It's white and that's all right!
| For those of you who have dynohubs, can someone tell me if wiring wrapped around the rear seat stay is a sign that there is too much slack in the wiring? Can/should I shorten the wiring to achieve a much cleaner look?|
Also, in the picture I'm attaching, you'll notice that the seat stay "clamps" on my 1952 Phillips are some kind of flexible "ties" made out of some alloy. Are these correct?
| Hi David,|
From a purely athsetic point of view wiring wrapped around the stay is not pleasing to the eye. From an electrical point of view there may be electromagnetic concerns but only very minor.
The clips are an elderly pre-cursor of cable ties (zip ties). Far better in the good looks dept would be a couple of seat stay cable clamps, sprung steel with small relief bumps in them to take the cable, and nicely routed cables which follow flowing lines without yards of coils or any tight pulled sections.
Matthew - ready for a good nights sleep
1) Do you know anyone who has any extra cable clamps lying around? Also, which clamp do I need for the top tube (pics)?
2) How do I shorten the wiring and reattach the copper ends? Will I need to solder?
| Hi David,|
1) I don't think I have any clamps, I'll look to see if I have any. The top tube clamp would be a larger version of the seat stay clamps, similar to the type of clamp which holds brake or gear cables on the top tube but with a smaller 'bump' to hold the wire.
2) Depending upon the fittings in your lamps you may be able to either solder or use screw fittings. Some lamps have grub screw fittings to hold the cables or ring terminals on BA threaded studs.
Investigation will reveal what sort of terminals you have.
Matthew - sparkling but not too bright
| I need replacement tubes for my 26 x 1 1/2" tyres on my Sunbeam. Harris Cyclery has 'em in this exact size, alas in Presta valve. |
1) Can I get by with a standard 26 x 1 3/8" tube? (tyres are different diameter: 26 x 1 1/2" is 584 mm diameter, not standard 590 mm)
2) Which valve do you guys prefer: Presta, Woods, or Shrader?
| You must use the 584 mm tyres. Harder to find all the time. There's an adapter so you can use presta valves in a schraeder rim. |
| Hi David,|
I prefer schraeder or Woods valves and I would use 26 X 1.75 tubes as used on mountain bikes, they will and do fit. I don't think I have any bikes running on imperial sized tubes anymore. Tubes are more conforming and forgiving than tyres, you can get away with some discretion.
Matthew - stretch and bend
|Hi, I was hoping to lean a little about this bike. Here is what I know so far: It was manufactured in 1958 (acording to the hub) by Norman Cycles of england, That was 2 years before the merger with Raleigh. It uses the sturmey archer SW "super wide" hub. The internal components show that this was one of the later made SW hubs. I have rebuilt the rear hub, it shifts great and engages all 3 gears without effort. I repacked the BB and headset, also replaced the bearings in the headset. I checked and re-oiled the front hub. Cleaned all chrome, paint etc. I replaced the inner wires of the brake cables, and got a new SA shift cable. The tires got a couple new spokes and have been trued. Everything on the bike seems to be original and is stamped "made in england". I think the tires are origional also, they are marked "davis deluxe" and "Western Auto". The paint and pin stripes are nice, some scratches, but still nice. Given the condition, what may be the value of this bike? Oh yeah it also came with an old front basket (steel). Thanks|
| I have two Normans. A 1950 Invader which is similar to a Raleigh Clubman and a 1954 mens version of your sports bike. My Invader has an FM hub, and my sports has an FW hub.They are pretty much a Phillips bike. They used Phillips fittings like the head set, bottom bracket, rear drop outs, and front forkes and brakes. You will probably find Phillips stamped on the bottom bracket cups and the front hub. My 54 sports verision, has Norman Knights for the spokes on the chainwheel, the way Raleigh used the Heron for spokes on their chainwheel.|
| yeah, I was dissapointed that my chain wheel didn't have norman knights. I assumed that meant it was lower end, but I have no idea. Was it common for Norman bikes to be sold at Western auto? It is sort of hard to find information on the web about these.|
| Western Auto was at one time a very large retailer of all sorts of things. They may have sold your bike but most assuredly the tires originated there.|
A little hard for me to tell as Western Auto's reign on the retail front was pretty much in the waning stage when I was a young lad.... but I do recall... they were like a super hardware store back in the day.
Not sure if they were nation-wide or just a regional establishment.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - "Western Auto"... was here in the east
| http://www.casey.org.uk/normancycles/History.html Here is a website for Norman cycles of Ashford England. Check out the picture gallery and you will see all of the motorcycles and bicycles that they produced. I love my Norman Invader, but would really like to find a Norman Rapide. The Invader is like a Raleigh Clubman, The Rapide is like a Raleigh Record Ace. I don't think the bikes were sold at Western Auto untill the late 50's. Neither of my bikes have any Western Auto decals on them nor do any of the broshures that I have make any reference to Western Auto.|
| Thanks for the link to the Norman page, looks like there is some good info on there. I know value is nearly impossible and there many of variables, but given the work done to this bike, is 150-200 possible or fair? I was hoping to make this my wifes bike, but she likes her yellow huffy better...hmm|
| I have an old catalog and it shows that black was the basic color, blue was an upgrade with tan seat, tan saddlebag, and tan grips. I sell ladies Ralieghs in that condition for $125. The Norman is a much harder bike to find especially in the condition that yours is in. Its a nice collectable bike. I would try for the $150 or more. If you have the room to store it, keep it untill you get your price. I collect the brochures for the bikes that I have so that I can show a buyer what he is purchasing. Copy some of the info from the Norman website to show to a prospetive buyer.|
| Thank you very much for the info. I realy wish this was a mens bike, as I can't convince my wife to want it. I've been patting myself on the back all weekend for getting the SW hub to operate properly. It wasnt easy... but it was so satisfying that I have been riding the way to small bike around (with my knees in my chest). I did place it in the for sale section. Thanks again for the information, of course more is always welcome. Now i'll have to hunt down a mens 3 speed.|
| Nice looking machine. And your wife lieks the Huffy better? It must be a really nice Huffy! The chainwheel on your bike is typical of Phillips bikes made in the late fifties. They were made by Raleigh and sold to Phillips/TI along with SA hubs, handlebar stems, etc. by that time. After the merger in 1960, all the distinctive Phillips/TI stuff was lost and the bikes all became Raleighs--not that this is such a bad thing, mind you! I have a 1950 Norman sports, all gubbed up with thick black brush-applied paint and sporting massive rear carrier baskets that must weigh about ten pounds. But it does have the cool little Norman knights going round the chainring as you pedal, plus a really exquisite headbadge. I use it as automotive swap meets as transportation and to carry stuff back to my space. The Western Auto tires are not original. All English bikes used English tires, almost invariably Dunlops, until the late 70s. These are very hard to find now, as you might guess! I still have one from the sixties on my 28" Dunelt, but it's badly cracked and I am sure I will have to change it for a new Kenda soon.|
| I took a lot more pictures of my bike. There are before and after shots if anyone is interested.|
here is the link:
| I fell in love with the Norman Knight chainwheel at first sight. I had two Normans pass thru my hands.|