| LOOKING FOR OLD FOLDING ROYCE UNION CRANK SET.MY PEDALS CONING OUT. THREAD NO GOOD ANYMORE...NEED TO BE REPLACED.|
| I have a Royce Union folder with cottered cranks. Mine is Japanese made- is yours? In this case you could replace the crankset with a Japanese 3 piece crank, either alloy cotterless or steel cottered. You might find a resale-shop 3-speed to part out; look for the Shimano hub. Are your pedals 1/2" or 9/16? If 1/2, another possibility might be to retap to 9/16- most shops will have the left&right thread set for pedal eyes.|
Mine's the only one I've seen. Can you send me a picture, or post one?
| hello. I have an old vintage redline bmx bicycle for sale. I realy would hate to get rid of it, but I beleive that this bike that I have is about a 1979-1985. It is in great shape, and I had just got a nice new tune-up on it.[ new break cable, and chain.] I had got this bike from a neighbor who had moved away, and it has been sitting in a shed for who knows how long. But any ways, when I got it, it didn't have a seat or a seat post. but I had to rig it up with a pair of mountain bike handle bars [as seat post] and slapped on an old amf bmx racing seat on it. I have had people tell me an estamate of about how much it is worth, so I guess I'll try to ask about $ 125, or best offer. If you have any queastions, please e-mail @ da firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks|
| for sale is a late 70's stingray tornado frame, orig paint, come with kickstand and fork cups. no breaks or rewelds in the frame. will have pics by tomarrow. $25.00 email me at email@example.com|
| I've got a '78 Raliegh Tourist with the Sturmey AW 3spd hub. Everything is original but the little shifter chain and the shift cable(to replace shift cables on this I used a teflon(because it is black like the original)shift cable then cut the closed end and the little rib off of an endcap and slid it onto the cable. The cable, then fits and functions properly in the shifter and I just JB welded another endcap onto the hub end). The bike had pretty extensive rusting when it was found at the flea market, but almost all is gone now(elbow grease seems to clean best). I intend to replace all 80 spokes with brass nipples and would then take that chance to revamp the rims. Almost all rust has been taken off of the rims, but pitting and cracking in the chrome still present an eye-sore. Any tips on fixing that are appreciated. I am considering bathing them in something nasty and then trying to re-round the rim(any ideas on this will be most appreciated)and then rechroming and rebuilding them with the original spokes because they look fine. The re-rounding, although seemingly one of the hardest things to do(unless someone teaches me something wonderful)is in my opinion the most appreciable thing I could do to this bike. My reasoning is that my rod-brakes are set up great, but being a mountain biker and mechanic who grew up at the onset of the era of V-brakes, I have a strong appreciation of a brake that stops and doesn't just slow down. My Raliegh currently has an undulating feeling at the levers which isn't terrible(there is no more than 1/8inch gap at the pads) but being a perfectionist and with the assumption that it's possible I'd love to feel this bike brake at its best. My brake set up is spot on other than my imperfectly round brake surface, there's nothing I can think of to make them better, and any tips on rim rounding(off the hub)would be greatly appreciated. |
This bike has no more than 300 miles-including what I put on it. I can tell by looking at the chainrings. I also rebuilt the front hub(it felt fine but I had to look), it's grease was dry but clean and there was no pitting. I cleaned it, greased it, and put it back on. NOTE: I got lucky and put the wheel back on right. I read minutes ago on Sheldon Brown's page and checked mine, but it is VERY important to put the side of the front hub(Sturmey Archer) that a wrench won't go on on the drive side of the bike. Read Sheldon's page to find out why, he's the expert not me.
The bike has a Raleigh saddle with a synthetic black cover and great suspension, it also comes with matching Pletscher kickstand and book rack. The fenders have absolutely no dings whatsoever, but they do have rust damage, I am doing something to remove and darken the rust. Because the rear fender still has a very good looking Raleigh decal, repainting them is out of the question. The chain is very clean and you can plainly read that it is from W. Germany.
The chainguard has a small ripple in the part that covers the chainring, there is no rubbing.
Everything on this bike functions perfectly, shifting is a dream, the saddle feels great, the steering is something that you just have to feel and the brakes are the coolest thing I've seen on a bike. I intend on giving this bike the life of riding that it deserves and one day have more time on the saddle than I do on the wrench with it.
I really don't want to sell it, I've only got about $40 into it so far, but I would like to know what it might be worth. I know a brand new Electra with a Shimano 3-speed hub that doesn't coast is about $350. This bike looks cooler, rides better, and is complete fun and function. What would be a reasonable asking price on something like this if I ever decided to sell it? To me each ride is priceless.
By the way if you have one, I got replacement pads and tires through J&B Importers the pads are called flat tops and require very slight modification(e-mail me, I have a part #for the pads)
| I had a cany apple red DG1 sold fopr 50 bucks in 1984.|
Mojorly regret the sale. I want another one,how rare are they and how much do they go for now?