| I have For Sale one of the Cleanist Schwinn Middle Weights you will ever see.January 1964 Schwinn Jaguar Mark V.It shows very little wear.All ORIGINAL,with springer front fork,stainless steal fenders (No Dents),4 reflector rear carrier,S tear drop rear reflector,original USA Schwinn Westwind 26X1&3/4 tires,center stamped S-7 rims,bendix 2 speed kickback and a milller generator light.You can view 10 photos on schwinn.com classic classfieds.|
| 24.5 inch late 1970's Raleigh Competition GS available for trade. I would like to trade for a smaller Competition GS in comparable condition. I might also be willing to trade for a comparable Schwinn from the same era. The bike appears to be all original (Campy Gran Sport Components and Brooks Professional Saddle etc . . .)and rides very well. Pictures available upon request.|
I am in and around Boston, MA.
| I have a fair to good condition Humber ser. # 566570H|
Please make reasonable offer. I can email photos.
| I need to find/purchase a larger sproket for this hub. A 14 tooth perhaps. i would also like to know any maintenance tips about this device. |
| DOES ANYONE WELD ?I NEED TO WELD PEDALS TO CRANK ARMS,ON MY OLD ROYCE UNION.THE THREADS ARE WORN AND COME OUT.|
| They used to make what were called "pedal extenders" for fixing that problem. It consists of a short bolt and a coupler. The bolt goes through the hole in the crank arm and you secure it by screwing on a coupler, then you screw the pedal into the coupler. Your pedals stick out about an inch further from the crank than originally, but this setup allows you to take things apart if necessary, welding is pretty permanent. I do have a supply of these "pedal extenders" if you are interesed.|
| Don't do it...pedals are cheap.|
| If you read what he is saying, the pedals aren't the problem - the threads in the crank are stripped.|
| Oh, pardon me. Don't do it. Cranks are cheap.|