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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   Two thoughts posted by: Brian L. on 9/13/2000 at 5:12:55 PM
1) Have any of you tried Dia-Compe 987 brake levers? They make even mediocre centerpull brakes stop like right now. They were designed for cycle-cross - traditional drop bar levers do not provide adequate mechanical advantage for cantilever brakes. They are a bit on the big side (a plus in my opinion when it comes to climbing) due to the fact that they house a cam-type action which increase the pull on some geometric ratio. Two potential downsides due to the fact that they are aero: aero is a no-no for most traditionalists and cable routing can be a bit awkward to front center-pull cable stops.

2) Has anyone checked out the "Roly Poly" tire on the Rivendell website? Very intriguing.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Two thoughts posted by Keith on 9/14/2000 at 6:16:59 AM
I have a set of Dia-Compe aero levers on my Le Tour (my triathlete neighbor gave 'em to me). The are fairly big, and black anodized with a white "A" inset. They work as you describe -- sound like the 987. Rivendell -- always something interesting. A tire tread that looks like a kitchen floor. I like it.






WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by: Tom Faust on 9/12/2000 at 8:14:23 PM
I have decided to kick my 10 speed up to 15 speed and get a "granny" gear. Has anyone got one for sale? I would prefer cotterless. I will worry about finding a bottom bracket to make it work. My only criteria is that it be as beautiful as the Nervar set it replaces. I would prefer 52/40/30.


   Three ring crankset posted by John E on 9/13/2000 at 6:37:51 AM
I have successfully converted two road bikes from 10 to 15 speeds, but I kept my original 144BCD Sugino cranks and adopted an unusual "third-step" gearing pattern (43-46-49, 13-16-19-23-26). It sounds as though you want either an Alpine (1.5-step) + grannie or double-crossover setup, and therefore will need new cranks.

Keep checking eBay for good lightly used cranksets. They recently had a virtually unused, gorgeous 1977 Campy Record triple, although that would have limited you to 36T inside and at least 42T in the middle position.

Sheldon has a good selection of crank spindles, and should be able to get you a long one with appropriate spacing between the bearing races. Also, in these days of 3-chainwheel mountain bikes, sealed bearing BBs for triples are widely available, >IF< you have an English- or Italian-threaded frame.

A cheaper option is to keep your crankset, change the rear axle to obtain a 126mm overlock width (and redish the wheel if necessary), and get a 7-speed freewheel from Sheldon, ExcelSports or eBay. The only problem with this option is that you are still stuck with that nonstandard 128mm BCD, assuming your Nervar crankset is anything like mine.

   RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Keith on 9/13/2000 at 6:55:20 AM
Rivendell sells really cool TA triples, as well as Sugino. Not sure if they still have Ritchey. Anyway, if they carry it, it's presumptively good stuff. Old Campy Record stuff has an inherent flaw -- look for a crack that starts between the crank arm and the 5th spider arm. For myself, I grab them off throw away or garage sale mountain bikes. I have a Suntour on my Mercian that was a throw away. But I'm not too picky. Scroll down -- someone was selling a bunch of triple stuff, including vintage long cage derailleurs, a week ago or so.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Brian L. on 9/13/2000 at 12:31:29 PM
I still have some vintage triple stuff - mostly rear derailleurs, but also a near-mint/VG NR crank w/ 52/42 chainrings that you can buy a "Triplizer" middle chainring for from Rivendell. Unfortunately, I don't believe it they have one that will fit your Nervar.

For those of you who care (Art, for instance)our email went wonky at work, so please reach me at bslick@weberthompson.com, NOT bslick@wtrktects.com.

   RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Bill Putnam on 9/14/2000 at 8:55:18 AM
Another word of caution along with cracks in Campy Nuovo
Record cranks-if you continue to use your Nervar cranks
check the right hand crank arm web where the arm connects
to the spider-after hearing about Campy cranks I checked
mine, 2 of 4 were visibly cracked, and my Nervar Star
crank was cracked the same way too.

   RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Keith on 9/14/2000 at 12:09:00 PM
Guys -- this is important -- don't risk your safety for the sake of being retro-correct. I saw a terrible injury with a failed crank. I saw another with a fork that was rusted out from the inside (that's why I rail about rust in the frame). Certain parts, when they fail, okay, you roll to a stop. Or maybe skid. Others -- it's broken bones and blood, or worse. Some of the mountain bike stuff is massive compared to old Campy and similar vintage stuff. And by the mid-80s, a lot of top-end road stuff was really much better designed and was forged -- much stronger. Lots of good choices. I've got a few bikes with Campy NR/SR cranks, but guess what -- I don't ride them! Well, okay, I do, but not much, and I look for the cracks. One guy who would tell you basically the same thing, who knows a whole lot more than I do, and absolutely loves old Campy, is Michael Kone of Bicycle Classics. Anyway, be careful -- I worry about you. Okay group hug. P.S. Go ahead and buy the old Campy -- but put it on a perfect, seldom-used bike. Hey, it was good enough for Eddy Merckx!

   safety posted by John E on 9/14/2000 at 4:38:55 PM
I concur 100%. Snapping a Sugino Mighty Compe crank at the
pedal hole during an out-of-saddle climb does not enhance
one's cycling experience!

   RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Brian L. on 9/15/2000 at 5:17:13 AM
Tom, I recommend that you look at Topline cranks. They are absolutely beautiful, cold-forged, made in the USA and have a pleasing, sculpted retro quality. I have a couple of bikes with them. Best of all, they are made with 110/74 bolt patterns.

I've got to add that I'm not too fond of TA Cycletourists. They look great, but are also prone to cracking, and do not have enough dimensional tolerance between the chainrings.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Three ring crankset posted by Christopherrobin@starmail.com on 9/15/2000 at 11:02:27 AM
One shop I was in recently has replacement bolt hardware on cards. This way they can help you if you looses the hardware between the rings. It looked like it will work with a variety of makes or setups.

   RE:safety posted by Grant on 9/15/2000 at 5:20:16 PM
Always knew those foreign born 10 speeds were apcray. When the
fad first started my brother bought a Peugeot for $110, a lot of
money for a bike then. Within 2 months the fork snapped off when he
hit a sewer grate and landed him in the hospital. The dealer put
on a new fork for nothing and remarked that it happened all the time,
the forks were a known weak spot. Nothing like that ever happened on
my old $10 coaster brake CCM.

   RE:RE:safety posted by Christopherrobin@starmail.com on 9/17/2000 at 9:12:17 AM
So if it happened al the time, then people got hurt all the time.

   RE:RE:RE:safety posted by Grant on 9/19/2000 at 3:43:12 PM
You said it. And they still are. Saw a message on another BBS
by a guy who was all stove up in a sewer grate/Peugeot crash.
He was looking around for someone to sue. I wanted to tell him
to get wise to himself and quit riding over sewer grates.

Out of curiosity has anyone ever had a Schwinn or Raleigh collapse
under them?






AGE / VALUE:   Simonato/Peugeot Update posted by: Tom Adams on 9/12/2000 at 3:53:58 PM
Just for all those who have been waiting with bated breath, the Simonato and Peugeot PX 10 made their maiden road voyages this week. In spite of my (in)famous mechanical skills, no crashes, spills, injuries or lost parts were encountered. (The over on broken bones was zero.) The Simonato rides a lot like my Colnago, classic italian steel zing, allowed climbing out of the saddle but didn't beat me up. Maybe there isn't that much difference between Reynolds and Columbus.

The PX 10 was sporting a snazzy chrome Tange fork to accept the standard bar and stem I had lying around the house. I discovered the Simplex rear derailer had been threaded but no notch filed for the derailer stop. Fortunatly the Duopar has it's stop shoulder supplied by a removable washer. Remove the shoulder washer, substitute a lock washer to limit forward swing, and Voila, instant french shifting! In spite of near 18 inch chainstays, the PX 10 is as stiff as the Simonato, and climbs nicely out of the saddle on the few occasions I risk anoxia by trying it. She's ultra stable but still can lean way over in corners. I'm too chicken to explore the full limits of cornering, but they're high.

All in all, very satisfactory. Boy, this is a fun hobby. Not cheap, but cheaper than old cars or motorcycles.



   Mn-Mo vs. Cr-Mo steels posted by John E on 9/12/2000 at 6:47:31 PM
You are correct regarding Columbus/Cr-Mo versus Reynolds 531. The formulae differ somewhat in their percentages of chromium, manganese, and molybdenum, and the Cr-Mo steels are a bit stiffer than the Mn-Mo, but frame geometry, tubing gauge, and lugwork have a much greater impact on ride quality. There is more difference between my two 531-tubed bikes (a long-wheelbased 1960 touring bike and a 1980 Peugeot with a tight geometry by French standards) than between my Peugeot and my Columbus-tubed Bianchi.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Simonato/Peugeot Update posted by Keith on 9/13/2000 at 7:05:03 AM
Bravo! I remember people used to say Columbus was stiffer -- I too think it has more to do with geometry, as well as construction. I've read that the manner in which the tubes are mitered and brazed in the bottom bracket shell can actually make two bikes of with the same tubing and geometry ride differently. I also think lug design matters. My Mercian Professional has very long pinpoint lugs, which Mercian makes by welding extentions to Prugnats. Despite the moderate chainstay length, the Professional is pretty stiff. More important than that, I'm glad you're enjoying your classic machines!






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   These Bikes For Sale posted by: Tom G on 9/12/2000 at 11:26:49 AM
1974 Schwinn Sprint, Lt. Blu, nos, near mint, 22" frame,
owner's manual ... $199.
1980's Schwinn Continental, Black/Gold, good shape, 19"
frame, ... $49.







AGE / VALUE:   Paramount posted by: Art on 9/12/2000 at 11:12:11 AM
In my continuing search for the quintessential touring bike I've gotten a lead toward a Paramount. It is a roadster-touring model. P11? It has metal fenders, spring seat, older simplex tour de France rear derailleur. 1955. Nervex lugs. Know anything about this bike? I heard of this Paramount version, but I don't know much about it. It's my size.


   Paramount posted by John E on 9/12/2000 at 6:55:17 PM
I bet there are not too many around! I poked around a bit on the Web, but as usual Sheldon was my best source of info:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chicago_schwinns.html

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paramount posted by Keith on 9/13/2000 at 7:08:57 AM
The Waterford site has some Paramount history, including how many were made during each year. I'll bet only a handfull were made in 1955. Check the site -- but I believe by 1955 Paramount production had moved from the Wastyn's shop to the "cage" at the Chicago schwinn factory. The Nervex lugs indicate this too.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paramount posted by Art on 9/13/2000 at 7:42:39 PM
I found some information in the last printed copy of the Bicycle Trader. The P 11 was the Paramount Tourist, in either 26 or 27 in wheels. It was a special order deal. One version has pretty basic Schwinn components. Campy parts were used in the upgrade. I'm going to get it. I have a newer Campy record groupo on a frame that is too small for me and which I bought for the components anyway.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paramount posted by Jimbo on 9/14/2000 at 9:14:28 AM
There is a 56 paramount for sale on the ebay (item # 437916786) for $3,500. There is also a 56th aniversary paramount. The bike is almost an original owner with a description but no pictures.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by: Keith on 9/12/2000 at 9:01:11 AM
Halfway home I saw a "real" rider in front of me, with a colorful jersey. So I passed him. He was riding a Litespeed, the front derailleur of which probably cost more than the old Schwinn Letour I was riding (with loaded panniers). So I'm crusing along at 18-19mph on the bike path. He's back there. Yes, he's chasing me -- he's on a Litespeed -- how insulting to be passed by a guy on a cheap bike in tennis shoes no less! But I don't want him to pass me -- so I kick it up a notch -- keeping it at 20mph or above. He's still back there, anywhere from 5 - 20 yards behind me. So I kick it up another notch -- 21-22mph. He's still back there, but now about 100 yards, but he's still trying. So I notch it up once more. 23 mph. Within a few minites I can tell I'm about to blow up. That's my limit, guys -- at this point in my life, in my present condition, on this loaded-up bike, that's really it. But I'm not lettin' this ti guy pass me! I come to a short rise -- I pedel hard to maintain my 23 on the uphill. ARGH! I'm completely out of breath -- my legs are rubber. There's a park just ahead, crowded with runners, walkers, dogs, etc. Ya gotta slow down for it. So, I make it there, and I get to stand up, stretch and coast for about 20 seconds. It's just enough. There's one more uphill section after the park. He's about ten yards back. I hear the click-clunk of his STI as we approach the hill. I don't shift down -- instead I push harder and spin up the hill at 23mph. Then I turn off the path to go home. I gained about 100 yards on him on the hill. These little races happen all the time on the bike path. Today it rained on the way in -- a lovely, gentle, cool rain. I relaxed and kept it at about 15 mph. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by Oscar on 9/12/2000 at 11:45:55 AM
I get into these races all the time, and I usually win. Sunday, though, I got into it with a guy on a $2000 mountain bike. He drafted me for miles, right on my tail until I finally pooped out. All that suspension and knobby tires, and he got me. At least he earned my respect ('til next time!)

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by Keith on 9/12/2000 at 12:40:23 PM
Since he drafted you, I hope he respected you!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by Art on 9/12/2000 at 2:58:50 PM
I was cruising home from work, not really pushing it, just enjoying the 106 degree heat. Some sweet boy all decked out in pink spandex and carbon fiber blew by me. He came really close and almost knocked me over. I jumped on his tail. He couldn't shake me. I couldn't overake him, but I was glued to his rear time. He got mad, slammed on his breaks and I sped by him. He yelled something at me but I kept going. I might have beat him, I thought to myself, but I had my panniers loaded and I had this old Mac classic bungee corded on to my rear rack. But then I realized I was just making excuses.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by Keith on 9/13/2000 at 7:12:57 AM
There's something deeply satisfying about definitively passing carbon or titanium while riding old steel.

   pickup races posted by John E on 9/13/2000 at 11:49:09 AM
It's even more fun to pass an exotic road bike when riding my knobby-tyred mountain bike or my 40-year-old full-fendered retro-Euro touring bike.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Litespeed posted by Keith on 9/14/2000 at 6:39:52 AM
Agreed. Here's my favorite: passing a modern while riding my 45-pound Raleigh DL-1 3-speed roadster with rod brakes, mudguards, huge chrome two-tone ding bell, 67 degree seat tube, 46" wheelbase, sprung Brooks B-66, and 28" (yes, 28") x 1 and 1/2" tyres. Yes, I've done it -- especially to mountain bikers. My old Dunelt 3-speed is only about 35 pounds, and a bit quicker. I remember really punishing a snotty young mountan biker while on the Dunelt about a year ago. He sneered at my bike at a stop sign, so that meant war. He passed me, I passed him, we both rode in the dirt, and I totally rode him off my wheel and wore him out. The English Roadster stuff -- it's cool too.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Dropout damage posted by: Keith on 9/11/2000 at 8:01:20 AM
One of the great guys who frequents this site kindly gave me a late 70s 531 frame. It was, unfortunately, damaged in shipping. The left dropout was bent inward about 3cm, roughly 30-40 degrees. It was easy to bend back. My understanding is that droputs are typically low carbon steel and are fairly ductile. My question is, do you think it can be trusted to not break when I'm riding? I could have the droputs replaced, at some expense, but I've also heard that the re-heating weakens the stays somewhat. I'd like some opinions before I invest time into building it up. P.S. I am definately NOT complaining -- it was a really nice thing for this guy to just give me this cool, vintage 531 frame!


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Dropout damage posted by Oscar on 9/11/2000 at 8:42:54 AM
I had the misfortune to bend my right rear dropout this spring. It sounds like the same degree of damage yours experienced. I bent it back pretty easily, and have been riding it all Summer. No problems. Good luck.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Dropout damage posted by Joel on 9/11/2000 at 11:32:29 AM
I have bent the deralleur hanger on my steel mountainbike frame many times and a few times on my aluminum road frame. They will take some abuse. I would try it before replacing anything.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Dropout damage posted by Art on 9/11/2000 at 2:51:34 PM
I've bent 'em and straightened them out and they seem no worse for the wear. If there was going to be a problem, I'd think you'd see it right away.

   Dropout damage posted by John E on 9/11/2000 at 3:17:18 PM
I concur with everyone else. I think you are better off using (and, of course, monitoring) that bent-rebent dropout than trying to braze in a new one. I have never seen a frame break there (although it probably does happen) -- the most vulnerable spots seem to be near the bottom bracket (seat tube or chainstays) and near the head tube (downtube).






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Italian Threads posted by: Oscar on 9/9/2000 at 6:22:53 PM
I've read that Italian threads will work with English components in some instances. If I have an Italian threaded fork and an English headset, would it work? Thanks in advance for your brainwaves.


   Italian headset Threads posted by John E on 9/11/2000 at 7:16:25 PM
According to Sheldon,

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_h.html#headset,

almost everyone uses 24TPI (except the Properly Metric French -- I sure wish the U.S. had followed Franklin's advice to make the revolution complete by adopting the French, instead of the British, system of weights and measures), but there are several standard diameters out there. BB shells, of course, are a whole different, sad story ...

   RE:Italian headset Threads posted by Oscar on 9/12/2000 at 10:26:32 AM
You're a dude, John (and Sheldon). Thanks.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed posted by: Stacy on 9/9/2000 at 6:17:42 PM
Does anyone know anything about a vintage lightweight bike called "Robin Hood of Nottingham?" It is red with white trim, fenders over the tires, and is 26 inches. I got it from an aunt that passed away and was curious about its origins and value.

Tahnks,
Stacy


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed posted by Tom Faust on 9/9/2000 at 6:47:17 PM
Robin Hood was, or became, a subsidiary of Raleigh. Have a look in the archives for "English Roadsters". Assuming it is a 3 speed, the Sturney Archer rear hub should be date stamped. The date stamp assumes the 20th cnetury and only gives the last two digits. The month may also be coded separately from the two digits for the year.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed posted by ChristopherRobin on 9/11/2000 at 3:32:10 PM
Sory to hear about the loss of your aunt.
Robin Hood was a cycle company all by itself long ago. Those are very seldom seen. Then Raleigh Industries of Nottingham, England created their own line of bicycles using this name. The economy class of Gazelle bicycles Raleigh made were getting confused with the Dutch Gazelle brand so Raleigh's Gazelle bikes were re-named Robin Hood. A charming, well made bicycle, a step down from Raleigh quality wise.Some of the earlier Raleigh made Robin Hood bicycles were really nice. Wonderful colours, cool Robin Hood decals. Raleigh's own 26 T.P.I. threaded headsets, bottom Bracket cups. What does the rear hub say? Wipe away the grime on thre rear hub and let me know what it says. should say 7-54 or something. This was the month and year the hub (and most likely the bike) was made. perhaps 50-$100.00 but then again condition is important. I would get it ready to ride and enjoy it. I believe these were stoped being made about 1969 to 1972 or so.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed posted by ChristopherRobin on 9/11/2000 at 3:41:20 PM
These were boy's and girl's models. A commuter bike or a "city bike" Well made, but these did not have ornate lugwork, or derailurs, or lightweight alloy componets.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed posted by Brian L. on 9/12/2000 at 5:07:50 AM
The only one I ever saw was a lead pipe junker that I got from Salvation Army just for the cool head badge.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by: Grant Lubben on 9/9/2000 at 11:24:04 AM
The other day I picked up 2 interesting old bikes. One is a Raleigh
Superbe #915726 SA hub dated 73 2. The other is a Schwinn Super Sport
#MG027070. Which would be Dec 71 I think.Both in fairly good shape, but
dirty and dusty from sitting around for years.

In looking for information I found plenty about the Raleigh and a little
about the Schwinn from your's and Sheldon Brown's sites.

I would like to know how original the Schwinn is. I already know the
Brooks B15 saddle is missing and someone changed the top mounted gear
levers to "Simplex" levers mounted on the front downtube.

It has "Dia-compe" front brake, "Schwinn Approved Type LC 2-7" rear
brake both center pull."ESGE" black fenders. Tires gum sided "Michelin
made in England 127X1 1/4 Sport (S)", Suntour derailleur, and the gadjet
on the seat tube that shifts gears is "Schwinn". Pedals are made of
stamped tin with rectangular orange reflectors, "K-B" in a 4 leaf
clover, "Made in Germany". Wheels are steel " SAMIR SAMINOX Made in
France"

Right now I am putting the Raleigh back in commission. The Schwinn 10
speed I may fix up this winter. I am not a 10 speed fan but it is a
little unusual so I thought I might restore it to original and keep it
around. Frame is a little scratched up but should clean up pretty well
without a repaint.Mainly I am interested in what is original on the
Schwinn and what is not. Any help would be appreciated.

Yours truly Grant Lubben



   Schwinn collectornet forum posted by John E on 9/9/2000 at 5:39:44 PM
Hi Grant,

Unfortunately, the Schwinn restoration discussion forum, where numerous Schwinn experts lurk, has been temporarily shut down. Keep checking under Schwinn.com, and when it comes back up, be sure to repeat your inquiry regarding the Schwinn Super Sport. "Var City" or one of the other forum regulars will probably be able to tell you everything about it!

I suspect the SunTour rear derailleur replaces a "Schwinn-approved" Huret Alvit, and the mismatched brake labels are indeed suspicious.

Happy cycling!

John

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by Bob Hufford on 9/9/2000 at 6:08:48 PM
My '71 Super Sport (for sale!) is out at the local swap meet right now, so I can't give you the component breakdown exactly. Here are the specs for the '72 model which is probably close (from the Schwinn 1972 Specifications and soon to be available on a website near you -- hope the formatting doesn't get too screwed up):
FRAME COMPONENTS: 4130 chrome molybdenum alloy steel with hand brazed joints and reinforcing pressed in sleeves. Chrome molybdenum alloy steel combines the best in strength with a low overall weight.
FRAME SPECIFICATIONS: The men's style Super Sport is available in 22", 24" and 26" frame sizes. The ladies' Super Sport is available in 19" and 22" frame sizes (frame sizes are measured from the center of the crank hanger to the top of the seat mast).
FORK: Tubular fork with chrome plated fork cap.
WHEELS: Assembled with Weinmann aluminum alloy rims on Schwinn-Approved large flange hubs. The hubs are equipped with a quick release machanism which allows the wheels to be removed and installed without the use of tools. Spokes are .080-.060 gauge and are bright zinc plated.
TIRES: The Super Sport models are equipped with Schwinn Approved 27" x 1-1/4" Puff Gumwall tires.
HANDLEBAR: Both men's and ladies' style Super Sports are equipped with Randonneur style drop handlebars.
CRANK SET: The Super Sport models are equipped with Schwinn manufacture double plateau front sprockets with built-in chainguard. The sprocket sizes are 39 and 52 teeth.
PEDALS: Aluminum alloy rattrap pedals with toe clips and straps.
SADDLE: The men's style Super Sport is equipped with the Brooks B-15 all-leather saddle. The ladies' style is equipped with a Schwinn-Approved nylon saddle with a spring undercarriage.
BRAKES: Schwinn-Approved center pull caliper brakes are standard equipment on Super Sport models. The caliper brake levers are fitted with a quick release feature and the ladies' style is additionally equipped with a set of adjusting barrels on the levers.
DERAILLEURS AND FREEWHEEL: Schwinn-Approved rear derailleur with long cage and Schwinn-Approved front derailleur. The derailleurs are operated from Schwinn Twin-Stik controls mounted on the frame head. The rear freewheel sprockets are Schwinn-Approved with sealed bearings and built-in chainguard on small high gear sprocket. The sprocket sizes are 14, 17, 21, 26 and 32 teeth.
GEAR RANGE: The gear range is 33 to 100 with the steps as follows:

39-32 (33) 39-26 (41) 52-32 (44) 39-21 (50) 52-26 (54)
39-17 (62) 52-21 (67) 39-14 (75) 52-17 (83) 52-14 (100)

COLORS: Opaque Blue, Opaque Green, Kool Lemon, and Burgundy.
WEIGHT: 33 lbs. (Weight will vary slightly depending on frame size.)

   Schwinn Super Sport posted by John E on 9/10/2000 at 1:19:59 PM
Awesomely comprehensive response, Bob (as always)!

Grant, if you ever decide to change back to authentic Twin-Stik shifters, you can have my set (good condition, a bit of corrosion on the baseplate) for the cost of shipping from San Diego.

   RE:Schwinn Super Sport posted by Grant Lubben on 9/10/2000 at 3:06:37 PM
Thanks John. I would like to put it back to original. In looking
around for info on this bike, it seems to have been neglected.
The Schwinn fans want nothing to do with a ten speed and the
ten speed crowd despise Schwinn. Yet it was a fine machine in it's
day, and deserves to be preserved as a part of bicycle history. If you
tell me how much I will send you some money. If possible send by
mail, government mail does not get stopped at the Canadian border
by customs but couriers do. Mail saves time and the expense of
paying for a customs broker to clear it.

   RE:Raleigh Superbe posted by Grant Lubben on 9/10/2000 at 3:25:42 PM
I have been working on the Raleigh Superbe. Fitted new tires and tubes,
greased and adjusted the front bearings, lubed the 3 speed hub and the
chain, and put a little oil here and there. Took it out for a few
trial spins yesterday (saturday) and adjusted the seat and handlebars.
Lots of fun if my friends don't see me LOL. By the way I weigh over 20 stone
(280 lbs) so I must look like a bear act from the Russian circus or an elephant
riding on a Maharajah LOL

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by Clyde on 9/10/2000 at 6:45:04 PM
Hey Bob, still have that 1971 Schwinn products catalog that I sent you a while back? Those are the specs I remember from my '71 SS. When a weld at the rear drop-out failed, Schwinn made good on their lifetime frame guarantee, however the one offered was lousy with all steel components so I sold it immediately. Too bad I didn't just have the drop-out welded and keep it. That was my first 10-speed. Well, enjoy your new Superbe and SS.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by Tom G on 9/12/2000 at 11:39:58 AM
since you are in San Diego Area, go to Chula Vista Schwinn
or visit www.chulavistaschwinn.com or www.net1plus.com/users
/tombikeguy. I can help you with some superbe parts also.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by Bob Hufford on 9/19/2000 at 10:58:22 AM
Clyde -- I do still have that catalog! Thanks again! I (along with Eric Amlie) am slowly putting together a web site of Schwinn Lightweight data from 1960 - 1979. I recently bought a '75 Paramount, so my wife says the '71 Super Sport has to go. I've don't want to ship it and have priced it just high enough that no locals have bit -- what a shame. ;-)

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Sport posted by gary main on 9/29/2000 at 7:35:51 PM
interesting thread. i wonder when someone will appreciate that growing mountain of xtra nice schwinn road bikes i have in back? i get 1-3 a week usually and i always keep the schwinns. collegiates, varsitys, continentals, LETours, even a few World tavelers. A few look like they have never been ridden.






AGE / VALUE:   Harding Roadbike posted by: Walter on 9/9/2000 at 10:51:26 AM
Hello: Recently picked up an early '80s/late 70's Harding road bike. Campy NR throughout, Reynolds 531. Due to serious corrosion paint has to go and I believe I can get duplicate decals made. Not really interested in selling, but am curious about make. I know from decals, the frame was made in Ireland. Anybody know anything else and can clue me in?


   C. Harding's For Bikes, West Los Angeles posted by John E on 9/9/2000 at 5:45:23 PM
The only Hardings I ever saw came from Charlie Harding's bike shop on Westwood Boulevard, about a mile south of the UCLA campus. Another customer told me they were built by one of Charlie's relatives in Ireland, but I was never able to confirm this. I left Los Angeles in 1981 and do not know whether C. Harding's For Bikes is still in business. Anyway, it sounds like a nice bike, worth fixing up. Let us know how it turns out!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Harding Roadbike posted by Keith on 9/11/2000 at 6:02:17 AM
If the rust is deeper than surface, I'd be careful using the bike as a rider. Check the inner tubes carefully -- take a flashlight and look and feel around in the bottom bracket shell and inside the tubes there. A little dusting of rust on an old frame is normal -- but deep stuff is bad. Also, with the bottom bracket out, take WD-40, and spray some into the brazing holes on the chainstays. If globs of rust flow into the BB shell from the stays -- DANGER DANGER! My point is that surface rust can be a sign of bad storage, and bad storage can also mean incurable, frame-integtrity threatening rust inside the frame. I'd guess that the reason you don't hear about inside-the-frame rust more is that the real restoration experts -- the ballooner guys -- don't care that much about it because the tubing is so thick and, more importantly, they don't ride their bikes much if at all. But if you're going 45+ down a hill, and your front fork or chainstay fails when you hit a bump . . . . I've said enough.

   corrosion, metal fatigue, and parts failure posted by John E on 9/11/2000 at 7:53:59 AM
Thank you, Keith, for bringing up a vital topic. Yes, the potential for frame, fork, or component failure is the dark side of the otherwise uplifting, splendid hobby-sport of classic bicycles. Fortunately, only one of my several on-the-road breakages (the end of a Sugino crank during a long out-of-saddle climb) resulted in injury, but the thought of a fork crown or blade failure scares the @^*$% out of me. Given some of the news about new component failures and recalls (including those fashionably ugly modern TIG-welded crownless forks), perhaps riding good, conservative older equipment is not so risky, after all.

Whenever a frame dies, I generally scrap the original fork with it, after salvaging all decent bearing cups and races. Likewise, when a hub flange cracks, I scrap the original rim, as well.






AGE / VALUE:   PX-10 and other French valuables posted by: Brian L. on 9/9/2000 at 6:48:33 AM
Full PX-10 in what appears to be remarkable shape on ebay: #428500189, size approx. 53 x 54. Current bid @ $202, 3 days left.

Also check out #431751885 for a beautiful, more modern lugged Peugeot frame, with full chrome fork and full 531db tubeset, according to the sticker. Actually more like a complete bike, less the wheels and description states that its all English, except seat post. Current bid: $75.


   English or Swiss BB? posted by John E on 9/9/2000 at 5:51:35 PM
I am very suspicious of the "all English" description in the latter listing. My 1980 Peugeot PKN-10E and A-08 of a similar vintage, as well as several Motobecanes I have seen, are Swiss-threaded. English and Swiss BB cups differ only in thread pitch (25.4 vs 24 threads per inch), but they differ radically in availability.

   Swiss threads posted by John E on 9/9/2000 at 6:02:26 PM
That white Peugeot Super Competition looks like the full d.b. 531 upgrade from my 3-tube d.b. 531 PKN-10E. If so, it dates from the early 1980s, before the Swiss and French BB standards were obsoleted.






AGE / VALUE:   chrome star sprocket posted by: joe on 9/8/2000 at 4:28:12 PM
Am interested in a pair of bicycles and they have chrome star design sprockets..can anyone tell me what make they are and a good price for each...Thanks...Joe


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   chrome star sprocket posted by sam on 9/8/2000 at 5:31:19 PM
Sounds german....maybe Dutch- Union or something that starts with an "F" but I can't spell it,check the rear hub,is it a 3 speed--sach's ?






MISC:   jockstrap posted by: sam on 9/8/2000 at 9:37:46 AM
Oscar's post of a few day back on cycling shorts reminded me of an artical I read in the june 2000 ESPN rag entitled "in praise of:the jockstrap.The venerable Bike Athletic Company patented its design in 1897-to combat "scrotal fatigue"caused by riding the crude velocipedes of the day,so the artical says.It also says The first sports bra-now in the smithsonian-was fashioned from two athletic holsters in 1981.And you can still buy this original ventage bicycle accessory from the same company that has been making then for over 100 years.I guess that shows what a good design can do!


   RE:MISC:   jockstrap posted by Oscar on 9/9/2000 at 9:24:47 AM
Talk about your unsung hero(es)! I had a gym coach who would threaten to pants you if he thought you weren't wearing one. The mere suggestion would be a felony nowadays.






MISC:   40 holes and a warped rim posted by: Oscar on 9/8/2000 at 9:12:51 AM
Well, now I’ve really done it. I was riding home the other day and noticed that my rear wheel was going out of true. Unfortunately, by the time I got home, the wobble got a lot worse. Diagnosis: now the rim is warped. An aluminum 27” 40 hole rim is mighty tough to replace, I’m afraid. Moral of the story: bring a spoke wrench with you on rides and use it.


   RE:MISC:   40 holes and a warped rim posted by Keith on 9/13/2000 at 7:19:20 AM
One modern do-dad tat actually worked for me was the kevlar emergency replacement spoke. The advantage is that you can install it on the drive side without removng the freewheel! But it's only an emergency fix -- they begin to stretch, fray and unravel after a few days of riding.