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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bauer German Antique Bicycle posted by: Warren Vassar on 10/13/2001 at 2:05:28 AM
We have a Bauer vintage bicycle from Germany. Anyone know anything about it? The information is as follows:
50JAHRE
The Brakes are Weinmann 801
Movell Sport
2 shifts
and also there are some numbers:
246229
2646229 (either or!)

Please email us back if you have any information at yooper@tc3net.com

Thanks!


     Bauer German Antique Bicycle posted by John E on 10/15/2001 at 4:26:45 PM
I don't know Bauer, but there is a sharp-looking 1972 Rickert on eBay (item #1016508126). For whatever reason, German bicycles are very rare in the U.S.






AGE / VALUE:   sears 531db 10 speed posted by: jimbo on 10/12/2001 at 8:03:43 AM
Today at a local thrift store I saw a Sears "Ted Williams" approved 70s ten speed made in Austria with reynolds 531db tubing. It had shimano dropouts and derailers with a ugly sugino triangluar bolt pattern crank. Its possibly a Capo or Austro-daimler Puch. I have never seen a sears bike other than the lower end three speeds and ten speeds that were made in Austria. Its strange to see a bike from Sears with reynolds tubing. I never thought they would go that high in quality!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sears 531db 10 speed posted by Mike Slater on 10/12/2001 at 12:59:28 PM
Unlikely this is a Capo...possibly a Puch, although the Shimano dropouts have me wondering if it is a Japanese frame made for Puch or some other smaller Austrian bike co. Be curious what the serial # was and where it is located.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sears 531db 10 speed posted by Gralyn on 10/12/2001 at 1:24:25 PM
Where did you see this bike? What state and what town. I believe I saw something very similar to what you are describing in a thrift store.

   it's a Steyr-[Austro]Damiler-Puch posted by John E on 10/12/2001 at 6:17:54 PM
Since Otto Cap had mothballed his production line by 1970, and Harald Cap did not open his computer-optimized made-to-order production line until about 1980, there are no early-to-mid 1970s Capos.

Before they evolved into Huffy and/or Murray ("Hurray"? "Muffy"? "Hufray") boat-anchors, Sears Free Spirits were respectable, albeit basic, Steyr-Daimler-Puch lightweights. Yours would have been a limited-production top-of-the-line offering. I am confident that the frame, basically an Austro-Daimler, is vastly superior to the components, particularly that crankset. If the frame is indeed Austrian rather than Japanese, the BB cups will have Swiss-standard mm-pitch threads, instead of 24 TPI.

   RE:it's a Steyr-[Austro]Damiler-Puch posted by jimbo on 10/12/2001 at 7:11:10 PM
That makes sense if you do the math! Bicycles Redezvous has two Austrian bike makers listed and I assumed it could be either one. The bike had a european stem and bars and locknuts on the rear and butterfly locknuts on the front. a real assortment of mismatched parts. It even had safety brake brake levers and center pull (weinmann?) brakes. I think all of Sears sports equipment was approved by Ted Williams and some of the camping-hiking gear was approved by Sir Edmund Hilliary but I dont think he used it to climb Mt. Everest.






AGE / VALUE:196* Bottecchia posted by: Gary on 10/11/2001 at 1:51:08 AM
Hi, I'm new to the bike restoration thing. I recently bought a nice Bottecchia frame in a local market, blue and chrome with the graphics in good (not excellent) condition, chrome fork & dropouts bright, etc. Bottecchia in big block sans-serif letters. A couple of the wraps on the tubes state "Campiogne de Mondo 1966". There's no stamp or label on the frame indicating type of steel. I'm pretty sure it's not 531. It seems relatively light, but certainly no featherweight by today's standards. Assuming this is a late 1960's model, what sort of frame materials were used by Bottecchia at this time? Also, given its decent paint, is something like this worth restoring or should I use it for a high-class beater?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:196* Bottecchia posted by Warren on 10/11/2001 at 4:30:24 AM
Beater! You said it has decent paint so that means you'd be throwing away good money on a proper refurbishment. Especially if it was a decent tubeset which I'm afraid it's not. Save your dough for that "gem" down the road.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:196* Bottecchia posted by Warren on 10/12/2001 at 5:02:06 AM
Hey Gary...I've reread my response and I think it may have sounded a little curt...it wasn't mean't that way. By all means restore the bike to perfect working condition, rebuild and repack the hubs, BB, headset, true wheels, replace pads etc. What I was saying was don't repaint it unless you really want the practise and "must" have it in black or whatever. Lord knows I've bastardized enough bikes in may day and that is part of the fun and learning experience of restoring bikes.

The label probably doesn't refer to the year of manufacture...it's likely that someone won a world championship on a Bottechia in 66. You'd have to describe all of the components to the list to get a better idea of when it was made. I just picked up a late 60's Italian frame by Stucchi...the Universal centrepulls and campy Valentino Extra components date it as well as the style of frame. This one is full chrome underneath with an overpaint. Although that seems promising, it's still likely made of what is referred to lovingly as "gaspipe"...a mild heavy steel used in a generation of bikes throughout the bike boom years. I'm going to strip the paint because it's in terrible shape and make my own winter beater. Or I'll give it away...it just happens to be a lot of fun buying an unknown bike, deciphering its history, pedigree, pulling it apart to see if it will make a viable bike and doing something with it. And how can you have more fun for $20? At worst, I'll have a pile of parts for the next project.

Good luck.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:196* Bottecchia posted by Jonathan on 10/12/2001 at 6:05:07 AM
I've had 2 Bottech's; one got smashed, the other is my commuter. It's early 60's with a big head-badge; no decals, but VERY high quality braze fittings and lugs.
It is a TOUGH bike and it rides real nice through all the road hazards. A 52 front stronglight (my addition) and a 14 in the back lets me pass a lot of "day-glo" riders.
Trust me, they are indestructible bikes. Better than Raleighs which I've run head-to-head comparisons.
They are pretty rare around here...the pre-boom vintage seems non-existent.
I still run cottered cranks to draw wierd looks from the equipment fetish-freaks
around here. It's fun to be retro! If it's anything like my "Black Beast", I'd restore it for service.
I go 11 miles without breaking a sweat because the power-transfer factor is very high with this frame.
A new chain makes a "world" of diff., too. KEEP IT!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:196* Bottecchia posted by Richard Robinson on 10/13/2001 at 1:01:11 PM
Hello Gary,

Don't be fooled by the low cost of the bike you picked up. Although Bottecchia bikes were considered midline in the 60's and 70's (behind Bianchi, Masi and Cinelli), they were great bikes indeed. I'm currently working on my 1968 Giro d'Italia Model right now; I can see it in the bike stand from where I sit. The decals are a little rough, but the bike rides great and it was built to last. I picked up a copy of a late 60's Bottecchia catalog from Chuck Schmidt at Velo-Retro. By the way he's a nice guy and has a big list of repro catalogs. He also just put on a great vintage bike show in California last weekend. Although I was not present I understand it was a great success.
According to all the research I've done, the late 60's were good years for Bottecchia and the Molteni team (the famous team that Eddy Merckx rode for from '71 - '77). The World Championship (Rudy Altig) and Tour of Italy (Gianni Motta) were both won on Bottecchia bikes in 1966. Also the Italian Championships from '64 - 67 were won on Bottecchia bikes. Not a bad record at all!
From what I've been told, in the late 60's Bottecchias were made by Carniell. Then sometime later they were bought by Bianchi. The two most notable frames were, top of the range "Professional Model" and second in line "Giro d'Italia Model". Both frames are identical in construction material, Columbus "Tubi Rinforzati". The only difference that I can tell are the component specs. In 1968 the Pro came with full Campy NR and the Giro model came with Record rear der.(very cool), Tipo hubs, Nervar Star cranks/BB, non-Campy headset, and steel seatpost. Both models came with Universal 61 brakes.
Although Bottecchia bikes may not be as nice as a Cinelli or Bianchi they have a great racing history and ride well. The bikes were named after one of the greates racers in the world.
The bottom line, enjoy your bike and ride the he!! out of it! Take care.

Regards, Rich






AGE / VALUE:   I don't know and it drives me nuts! posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/11/2001 at 1:49:31 AM
I found the one pedal in this place but where is the other one? This is vintage and valuable and so I tore the place apart looking for the other matching one. It is not there and so I brought it home. The seller asked "Where is the other one?" My mechanic friend asked me where I got it, he said that it was valuable and "where is the other one?" It sits alone on the shelf where it succeeds in irritating me ever time I see it.
Old dank shop in the basement and it was all alone there for decades before I came along. Why am I keeping it? Because I may find one and have a matched pair. This is the thinking behind all the orphan parts I have in the collection.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I don't know and it drives me nuts! posted by Fred on 10/12/2001 at 3:22:54 AM
I know just how you feel Chris. I have a few orphans myself. At this moment I am frustrated trying to find a mate to a Suntour barcon that I want to use on a NOS Trek touring frame bike I am building. Sometimes I even doubt that I ever had both shifters, but why would I have just one shifter? I'll probably find it after I get the bike built.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I don't know and it drives me nuts! posted by Steven on 10/15/2001 at 5:03:45 AM
I used your other Suntour barcon on my cyclo-cross bike back in the 80's. Don't you remember? I'm only partially joking as I sold many barcons as singletons back in the 80's to the cyclocross fraternity.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I don't know and it drives me nuts! posted by Ray on 10/17/2001 at 8:08:43 PM
Chris, murphy's law says that if you found a right hand rare pedal and save it till you find a match. The match will come in the form of another right hand pedal ;)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I don't know and it drives me nuts! posted by Ray on 10/17/2001 at 8:09:27 PM
Chris, murphy's law says that if you found a right hand rare pedal and save it till you find a match. The match will come in the form of another right hand pedal ;)






AGE / VALUE:   Old SR/Sugino chainrings? posted by: Nat on 10/10/2001 at 11:48:47 PM
Does anyone have an older SR chainring (118mm BCD -- ugh) to sell? I have a 40T now but it's not very round and I'm running fixie. I'd like a 42 or 44 but if you have something else I can always get a new cog. Roundness is more important right now ;)


   Stronglight, Ofmega, Campy options posted by John E on 10/12/2001 at 6:28:59 PM
If you cannot locate an Ofmega or SR 118mm ring, you can easily adapt either a 116mm Campy or a 122mm Stronglight ring, using a Dremel tool to elongate the stack bolt holes. (For several months, my Capo has sported a Dremeled 130mm 44T Shimano ring with the original 52T Nervar ring on a 128mm Nervar Star crankset.)






WANTED:   1972 Schwinn Paramount Catalogue posted by: John on 10/10/2001 at 8:15:44 PM
Lucky to have gotten a 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9 with original tool bag, tools, owners manual, receipt. Second owner told me the original owner switched the brakes at purchase to Suntour Superbe. Not sure Superbe was made in '72.

I'd like to obtain a reprint or original copy of a 1972 Paramount catalogue. Know of any sources?


   RE:WANTED:   1972 Schwinn Paramount Catalogue posted by DBean on 10/10/2001 at 8:42:42 PM
I bought a 75 Paramount from the original owner (then stolen in Boston!) which was all Campy NR with Weinmann centerpulls, which matched the catalog description at the time.

   RE:WANTED:   1972 Schwinn Paramount Catalogue posted by skip Echert on 10/11/2001 at 6:17:49 AM
Hello John -
Superbe came out in about 1977, you are right it was certainly not available in 72. Seller must have been confused. The Waterford site has some Paramount history

cheers,

skip

   Weinmann centerpulls posted by John E on 10/12/2001 at 6:32:43 PM
Weinmann centerpulls are almost definitely the correct brakes for your frame. Contrary to popular teaching and fashion, they are effective, durable, and easy to maintain. I also like the way the levers fit my hands. Oscar has accurately called them "everyman's brakes."






AGE / VALUE:   English Lightweight posted by: David Walker on 10/10/2001 at 6:47:24 AM
Can someone familiar w/older English bikes help me identify a full chrome frame? I think it's English because it has Cyclo ends. Paint and decals are long gone. It has a grease nipple underside the BB. It had basically full Campy (old NR judging by the steel rear derailleur). The rake on this baby is extreme by todays steel. It was set for Center pulls because a curved rear cable hanger is brazed on seat stays. Brazed on shifter bosses etc. Seems to be unusually light for the vintage.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   English Lightweight posted by Keith on 10/10/2001 at 5:29:14 PM
The bb grease port suggests 50s or earlier. If the Campy rear derailleur is original (term applies only loosely here) then it is no older than 1951, when the Gran Sport became available, or 1963, when the Record came out. Sounds like a British club or touring bicycle. The Data Book depicts things like shifter and other special brazeons from this period. I think this would indicate one of the many small British frame shops that sprang up in that era, some of which still make frames today (Bob Jackson, Mercian), although Cyclo could also be French, and their best builders did lots of inovative brazeons (Herse). What do the lugs look like?

   French or English? posted by John E on 10/12/2001 at 6:35:03 PM
The BB threading (and possibly the headset threads or seatpost diameter) will quickly tell you whether it is English (most likely) or French. Nice find! Can you measure the frame angles? If so, are they 72 degrees, or even more laid-back?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   English Lightweight posted by David on 10/17/2001 at 5:42:53 AM
The frame is 72 parallel and BB is English thread. The lugs have an extruded point along the top of the tube and a relatively deep decorative curve or cut below. A simple pronounced decorative lug. TI is part of the serial number which I think is Tube Investments. The derailleur is a steel Gran Sport. One bike that at this time appears to match up to is a 1963 Reg Harris Professional, though not sure about the grease port.






MISC:   Boast posted by: Oscar on 10/10/2001 at 2:15:59 AM
While driving the lad to pre-school on a beautiful Tuesday garage day in the neighborhood, I ran into wonderful luck. A pair of road wheels by the curb. No one in my neighborhood throws out anything good, but to my surprise...high flange Campagnolo hubs laced to Mavic tubular rims. Campy quick releases and a Campy 5 speed freewheel.

Now, where's the rest of the bike???


   RE:MISC:   D'oh posted by Oscar on 10/10/2001 at 2:23:00 AM
It was garbage day, not garage day. Ever notice how similar these words are? You should see my garage.

   RE:RE:MISC:   D'oh posted by Clyde on 10/10/2001 at 3:33:29 AM
Congrats!! Now could you please pull out your calipers and measure the spacing for a 5-speed hub. I'm building up a Campy Tipo HF hub from spares, but don't have original spaces and washers. So, I'd appreciate the dimensions (or spacer thicknesses and counts) for 120 mm spacing. Thanks.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   D'oh posted by Oscar on 10/11/2001 at 1:57:16 AM
Clyde - Please give me until the weekend to pull it apart and get the measurements. From what I can see on the non-drive side, it's cone, washer, spacer, washer, thinner spacer, locknut. Yikes!

   Washers/spacers for Campy posted by Clyde on 10/12/2001 at 4:08:16 AM
Thanks Oscar,
Your measurements would help complete project long in the works. I've had a 120mm spacing Campy axle for over 20 years or so, found a hub shell recently in the trash, then bought 10x28 Campy cones at LBS. Hopefully, I'll be able to duplicate the spacings from bits in my parts bin. Then build up 27" wheels for an all chrome 70's French frame. Cheers

   RE:Washers/spacers for Campy posted by Oscar on 10/17/2001 at 3:57:23 AM
Ok, Clyde. Empty out your baby-food jar of nuts & washers. Here we go working from the locknut inward:
Drive Side:
Locknut: 4mm
Slotted Washer: 1mm
Spacer: 7mm (pretty concave shape)

Nondrive side:
Locknut: 4mm
Slotted washer: 1mm
Washer: .5mm (1)
Spacer: 2mm
Slotted washer: 1mm






AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by: Mickey Mercier on 10/9/2001 at 8:14:50 AM
I have a Humber frame that seems to be over 50 years old. It has a lot of character. It has twin-bladed forks and the crank features cutouts of nymphs. I moving and have to get rid of it. Is it something anyone would want? How do I figure out the model and year?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by sam on 10/9/2001 at 2:06:38 PM
Not sure on model and year,but yes they are wanted.Is it the 28" wheel or the 26" wheel and how much and where are you?How compleat is it and does it have the full enclosed chain gard--mens or girls frame?Rod brake or cable? ---sam

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Mickey Mercier on 10/10/2001 at 9:26:29 AM
It's a 26-inch girl's bike, black with gold decals, open chainguard, cable brakes. Not the complete bike: Frame, fenders, chainguard, headset, crank. Is there a way to find the serial number or something? I am in New Haven, Conn. There is a back alley bike shop near here that would tear it all the way down and then it would pack into a reasonably small box. The question is whether it's worth the time and expense.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by sam on 10/10/2001 at 1:00:57 PM
Mickey,I think the answer is NO,you might leave a post under english roadesters but as is it's not much,I'd offer it for free if someone would pick up rather than toss it but for a limited time as you are moving---good luck

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Keith on 10/10/2001 at 5:17:29 PM
It's worth something -- although you shouldn't expect a mint for it. I think the English Roadster crowd is even more marginal than we are, but someone will want the crank and fork, at the very least. Christopher Robin who frequesnts both sites will likely be interested if you post under English Roadsters. I would add, BTW, that I enjoy the 28" wheel Brit bikes quite a bit myself, and this week switched from my Motobecane fixed gear to riding my Raleigh DL-1 roadster to work. Ultra comfort, and most of the time do we really need anything more than 3 speeds?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Mickey Mercier on 10/11/2001 at 4:18:02 AM
Correct -- The twin-tube forks are the bomb, along with the nymph crank. This parts bike does sem to be worth something. The work involved in shipping it, for me and my buddies and UPS, is almost more of an issue. $200 would do it. $100 doesn't make much sense.

This weekend, I will get the outfit into bright sunlight and try to take some data off it.

I always liked the airpump mounts on the top downtube. They are hollow, sensuous and finely crafted.

I personally was interested in the relationship, if any, of this bicycle to the Vincent motorcyle? These sort of machines merge brutal, bronze-age British metalworking with more forward-looking frame design.

You all are not going to like this, but if I don't sell it my homey at the Dark Angel-style bike shop says he can outfit it with modern alloy wheels, brakes and hubs for a shocking amount of money considering the custom machining. I will thoroughly clean and clearcoat the frame, and then see how it rides.

See my ad for the '49 Schwinn Starlet under balloon bikes for the outrageous indignities I perform on vintage machines.

Thanks, Mickey

PS, I am at Yale if that helps to locate me.
So buy it already! Before it's too late!

Mickey

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Keith on 10/11/2001 at 7:57:57 PM
I would not be offended at all of you pieced it together with modern stuff. In reality, bikes like this continue to be made by the millions in China, India, Africa and Mexico. Even an old complete 28" wheel roadster with all the bells and whistles completely intact, including the holy grail chaingaurd (sort of viewed the same way tanks are seen by ballooner collectors) is still not worth a king's ransom, and what you have are just a few nice parts. I made a cheap Indian Avon into a fixed gear bike with alloy 27" wheels, and it was fun to ride. The profile resembled that of a 1895-1920 roadster, and I imagined it rode like one too. Make something entirely new with it. If 50 years from now someone decides its rare and valuable, at least you will have preserved the parts.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Keith on 10/11/2001 at 8:20:30 PM
P.S. As an example, Sheldon Brown sold his exceptionally cool 1950s Superbe roadster a year or so ago, and I think he let it go for something like $350. It was a DL-1 with all of the desireable features: full chaincase, 4-speed hub, dynohub, etc. Yours, even if a complete bike, would be worth less, I believe, since it's a women's frame, despite the cranks and fork.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber Frame posted by Keith on 10/11/2001 at 8:25:01 PM
P.P.S.

Look here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/superbe54.html

I can't recall where - but someplace I believe he mentioned the selling price. Maybe he'll even pop by here and say. The point is I don't see $200 coming your way for this.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel sizing posted by: DBean on 10/8/2001 at 4:30:47 PM
Advice please; should I go with "modern" 700C wheels when building up a frame designed for 27" wheels? Will regular (non-short) brakes and the handling be ok with the slightly smaller wheels?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel sizing posted by Mike Slater on 10/9/2001 at 1:41:45 PM
I would go with the 700 wheels simply because of the increase in tire choices. I have not noticed any difference in the handling of the bikes I have done this to. As for the brakes, you will just have to try it and see if they reach. Again, my experience is that the front brake will "probably" be OK, the rear might possibly require a drop bolt.

Now, having said that, there is certainly nothing wrong with 27" wheels. Tires in varying styles are still available.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel sizing posted by Warren on 10/9/2001 at 1:45:41 PM
The handling will be find but short reach brakes will rarely work. Use the best long reach brakes you can find. Some people have used drop-bolts for the brakes that allow for the shorter reach but I haven't seen them.

   Wheel sizing posted by John E on 10/9/2001 at 2:45:33 PM
Before you do anything, measure the slots in your brakes. If you can move the pads downward by 4mm, you are "700C-ready." Change over to KoolStop or equivalent modern pads, if you have not already done so, because your braking leverage will decrease by a factor of approximately x/(x+4), where x is the distance from the pivot to the current brake shoe mounting position, in mm.

Unless your frame simply will not accommodate the change, I strongly advocate 700C because of the rim and tyre selection, relative to 27". Drop bolts are a great idea, albeit expensive at $40-50 a pop. Older English and Japanese touring frames tend to need a large drop on the rear brake, which may give you enough room to machine a "drop block" out of aluminum stock. French bikes tended to have similar front and rear brake reach.






MISC:   sunday ride posted by: rickey on 10/8/2001 at 4:11:51 PM
the weather was great 10-8-01 the ride was great where were you. weride@hotmail.com here next sunday only 30 miles maby more rain or shine. would you like to ride your bike join us here at KNOWLES BICYCLE SHOP valley al.334-756-7561ps we repair & service bikes parts & accessories new & used bikes & I restore old bikes very reasonable prices. ride for free

Replies:







MISC:   Avenir pedals posted by: Bob on 10/8/2001 at 7:21:52 AM
A while back I came into possession of a pair of Avenir pedals. These are clipless. The "platform" is a bit more than 2" square and made of some sort of composite material. In the center of the square is a round hole, about 1" in diameter where the cleat goes. Inside the composite body is a large spring which apparently holds the cleat in.

I took them over to the local shop that sells Specialized bikes and the owner said he has never seen anything like them. Made the rounds of the bike shops -- ditto.
Does anyone have any idea where I might find cleats for these? They are pretty light, apparently brand new, and I hate to throw them away.







WANTED:   Schwinn Varsity.... posted by: Tim P. on 10/8/2001 at 4:58:09 AM
Looking for a 19" or 22" mens bike, (Varsity), which must be in excellent condition. I know everyone either has a couple of them or knows where to get one. Please email me direct with detailed descriptions and price. Thanks, Tim P.







AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Breeze posted by: elishua on 10/8/2001 at 1:52:38 AM
I have a Schwinn Breeze, serial # LD52247, located on the left rear axle bracket. Has the original 2-speed kick back hub(Bendix Automatic, red line, three bands), in good working condition. Wondering if anyone could give me some info on this, if it is very rare, approximate value, age, etc. etc. Thanks in advance.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Breeze posted by Oscar on 10/8/2001 at 12:50:25 PM
Your bike dates from November 1968 (the autumn of love?). Breezes are not rare, and generally not valued much over $50. The two-speed kickback is a nice hub, so you may do well to hold onto it. I'm sure the value would appreciate after another 10-20 years.






FOR SALE:   ALLOY STUFF posted by: Tom on 10/7/2001 at 6:32:36 PM
I was cleaning out my garage and have these items for sale.
#1) Normandy alloy hubs(pair) laced to Rigida chrome rims with diamond pattern sides,extra rim, one is dented,Atom 5 spd freewheel. Quick release axles no levers.$20.00
#2) Normandy front hub alloy R-20-78 marked on hub. Quick release no lever. $10.00
#3) Exage HB-RM50 front hub quick release Shimano skewer laced to Araya 700C rim. $10.00
#4) Suzue 4K hubs(pair) Suzue quick release on front only laced to Araya 27x1 1/4" allloy rims. $20.00
#5) SR Japan K85 front alloy hub laced to Weinmann alloy 27x1 1/4" rim. Quick release and skewer. $10.00
#6)Rino Chrono sew up wheels, all black rims and hubs, english threads, 630mm across the wheel. Quick release and skewers. The black is worn off where the brakes touch rim. Nice set. $40.00
#7 Normandy Alloy hubs laced to alloy sewup rims, one is a Record (French) and one is Ruban Bleu. Nice wheels but have a few scratches in the sides. Good for daily rider. True and straight. Quick release axles no levers. $40.00
#8) Huret Svelto rear derailleur maybe 60's but I don't know. Complete, straight and good working order. Original chain wheels. $30.00
#9) Huret Allvit rear derailleur, steel chrome. The chrome has a few small rust spots. Original red chain wheels.Nice unit. $20.00
Email me if your are interested. I will ship at cost, you pay shipping.