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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   Regina Freewheel posted by: Bob on 5/11/2001 at 9:53:41 AM
This has been a week for "finds." I picked up a Motobecane Gran Record which is mostly original and just my size, but this posting is prompted by a Regina 7-speed freewheel.

I purchased a "kit di transformazione superleggero" for $20 which is an apparent upgrade for the Regina Extra freewheel. The new-in-box cogs are a dull medium grey color and they are extremely light weight. I know Regina makes titanium cogsets, could, dare I say it, this be one of them?

The box identifies the cogset as a 12-13-14-15-17-19-21 (perfect!) gearing, and has a tag marked "KSH2, FIL 0 34.5"

As luck would have it I also have a NOS Regina Extra "America 1992" freewheel with steel cogs. Off come the heavy steel cogs and on go the light alloy or titanium cogs and I have a "new-unused" lightweight freewheel.

If anyone knows how to tell if these cogs are alloy or titanium please let me know.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Regina Freewheel posted by Jim on 5/16/2001 at 6:50:09 AM
Bob- Just give them the magnet test! Could be Ti, but most manufacturers would specify on the box if they were. Nice finds!







MISC:   One Man's opinion posted by: Art on 5/11/2001 at 7:08:48 AM
One of the opportunities that teaching school affords me is that things constantly change. As this year rapidly rushes to a close, I've thought about this school year and how important commuting to work on my bike has been. It gets the blood going in the morning and I get to leave my frustration on the pavement at the end of the day. I've also appreciated snapping on my computer and checking in with oldroads as I change out of my bike clothes. You all have afforded me, at times, a sense of adult sanity and pleasant distraction during my day. I've looked forward to your comments and opinions. I think this site is a real down to earth forum, void of the ego and celebrity that can take away from the discussions. I've appreciated your technical expertise and assistance. Thanks. Art


   RE:MISC:   One Man's opinion posted by Wings on 5/12/2001 at 12:19:58 AM
I have walked to school.
An after school bowling club of teachers also helped the stress.
I ran most of my life after school. When I could not run, I would bike. The last 15 years it was biking every day -- it really helped! Many times the bike was in the back of the truck and I would drive to a lake or different places to get a ride in before darkness hit. I hear you!!! Exercise really helps that type of people stress.
On a sunny day with that perfect weather do you ever look out the door or window and just wish you could beam onto the saddle???

   RE:MISC:   One Man's opinion posted by sam on 5/12/2001 at 8:06:36 PM
My daughter , in collage,just got accepted into the teacher cert.program.Should I buy her a bike when she graduates?

   RE:RE:MISC:   One Man's opinion posted by Wings on 5/13/2001 at 12:03:49 AM
With the price of gas going up - yes, and with a big basket so she can pedal home the homework she has -- because the job never ends. The job is as much as you want to do and to do a good job it can consume life. With a bike she will have more time to grade papers and fewer fill ups at the pump or oil changes at the dealership!
The first year I taught, I was near Wichita, Kansas. One night we had a huge snowfall and the next morning I hitched a ride on a semi to get to school! Kansas kids always showed up!!! Never distracted by snow. Southern California kids see rain and the jump in puddles or roll in puddles and get very distracted by it.
So, also consider studded tires and fenders. See if Christopher can come up with some Mud Guards.
Best wishes to her!!!!

   RE:MISC:   One Man's opinion posted by Keith on 5/16/2001 at 12:17:48 PM
I'm totally with you. I signed up for the CR list, but jut had myself removed. Those people are cool -- the real high flyers in the collectors' realm. But this site is so down-to-earth, and everyone is friendly and helpful -- no big egos or nut cases making us miserable. Nothing else touches it.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Aluminum Rims posted by: Bill on 5/10/2001 at 3:58:19 PM
I'd like to clean up a set of Weinmann 27" rims while retaining the original look. I know I can get a polished surface with Simichrome or Brasso but a mirror finish isn't right. Polishing and then scuffing the finish concerns me and the wheels will remain spoked so an even finish might not be possible. Any secrets like lemon juice? I know this post might belong on the restoration site but this is for a lightweight bike. Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill


   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Aluminum Rims posted by Wings on 5/12/2001 at 12:22:40 AM
Mothers is great on alloy rims!!! Very easy to use.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Aluminum Rims posted by sam on 5/12/2001 at 4:28:24 PM
Bill, if you don't want a mirror finish try the new 3-M scuff pads,found in the auto dept.I'd becarful to rub in one direction only or you'll make a mess.--sam

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cleaning Aluminum Rims posted by Oscar on 5/11/2001 at 6:26:40 AM
Mothers Aluminum Polish is great by me. Mirror finishes are cool. It depends on the original finish of the rims. My Weinmann's shine brightly like mirrors, but don't look like chrome.






MISC:   1901 Rambler model 38 posted by: john on 5/9/2001 at 8:06:54 PM
I have a 1901 Rambler with wood rims,shaft drive model 38. I have no idea where to get good info on this bike?


   RE:MISC:   1901 Rambler model 38 posted by JOEL on 5/11/2001 at 2:46:54 PM
Try contacting The Wheelmen.






AGE / VALUE:   Motobecane 60cm Mirage posted by: Gary on 5/9/2001 at 6:13:28 PM
Real nice Motobecane 60 cm Green with black pinstripe and lettering. Rigida Super Chromly wheels on Normandy hubs.
Solida 3 peice cottered crankset. Lyotard pedals. Lugged 1020 frame. Suntour V-GT derailler. Ratcheting SunTour levers. Bright green with chrome tipped fork. Dia-compe brake levers with Wienemann center-pull brakes. Pivo gooseneck. Made in France, lettered on downtube, and on headbadge. Saddle and tape job serviceable. Tuned, and polished, Make Offer.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Motobecane 60cm Mirage posted by Bob Hufford on 5/9/2001 at 8:47:41 PM
Gary -- the bike is too big for me, but this model sounds like my 2nd 10-speed (after my Schwinn Super Sport was stolen in 1973). I wonder if it is the same as I remember. I loved that color! Not a very high level bike, but I put many miles on it. I'd love to see pictures if you have any!






AGE / VALUE:   Mint U0-8 collectible? posted by: Warren on 5/9/2001 at 5:35:32 PM
I'm not a fan of Peugeots mainly because I've never been on a good one...just bike boom crap in the 70's. Yeah I know they were respectible sport bikes at the time but I was lucky enough to have a Zeus equipped , spanish yadda yadda. Anyway, I had to buy this incredible lime-green U0-8 with all the original equipment from the thrift store for $20. Some net research shows that the decals are from 1967 to 1970. Atom/Rigida combo wheelsets with the original Hutchison tires, white/black Delrin Simplex rear der. and matching grey/white front , metal shifters, leather saddle and the coolest green paint. Perfect decals. Is this collectible? Should I turn it into a fixed gear commuter? Put it on e-bay to entice the Japanese collectors to bid unheard sums of money? Put it in the basement and let it rot with the rest of the clan?

Just wondering...I will clean it and make it sparkle first.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Mint U0-8 collectible? posted by mike on 5/9/2001 at 6:23:26 PM
I'd part it out and sell the parts on Ebay for ungodly sums of money. IMHO, the only Peugoet even approaching collectable status as a complete bike is the PX10E in mint, original condition with metal Simplex and fancy Nervex lugs.

   Mint U0-8 collectible? posted by John E on 5/10/2001 at 7:28:58 AM
I agree with Mike. At that price, keep the frame as a commuter, beater, or fixed-gear. If you want to sell the original cottered cranks (a good move, in my opinion), make sure you can find a set of French-thread BB cups for your replacement crankset.

   RE:Mint U0-8 collectible? posted by Bob on 5/10/2001 at 12:28:55 PM
If you want to ride this bike then anything you take off will have to be replaced with something else. For example, cottered cranks might fetch $25 on eBay, but if you replaced them with cotterless you are going to spend a lot more than that. A decent French BB will set you back $35 to $75 and then you have to buy some cranks. High end vintage French stuff is pretty pricey on eBay right now. The stuff on your UO-8 is not high end so it will not fetch a premium price, but if you replace it with something better expect to pay through the nose.

   Mint U0-8 posted by John E on 5/10/2001 at 12:40:56 PM
>but if you replace it with something better expect to pay through the nose.

... agreed, unless he has a goodly stash of parts, as I did for mine. I spent $20 on a set of Sugino French BB cups, dug everything else I needed (aluminum wheels and bars, Campy and SunTour derailleurs and shifters, aluminum Tourney crankset, Weinmann brake handles) out of my junk box, and had a good commuter for 5 years, until I cracked a chainstay.

   RE:Mint U0-8 posted by Warren on 5/11/2001 at 6:30:55 AM
Thanks everyone...I'll throw some fenders on it and use it for rainy days commuting to work. This will give me a chance to see how bad that french chrome really is.

   caveat posted by John E on 5/11/2001 at 6:51:18 AM
Good idea, but watch those brakes! The Mafac pads have hardened with age and need to be replaced, preferably with KoolStops or equivalent. The steel rims, though serrated, do not provide as much braking friction as aluminum rims. Dry your brake pads and rims frequently by applying the brakes gently as you ride, instead of discovering you have no brakes precisely when you need them.

As you have noticed, the frame itself has generous mudguard clearance, even with 27 x 1-1/4 tyres.






FOR SALE:   panasonic fork lite posted by: todjob on 5/9/2001 at 3:55:40 PM
panasonic fork lite unit real good condition,plastic headlight housing has scratches but could be repainted gen. has 1 blemish but nothing broken or cracked works good real clean perfect lens appx mid 80's item off of a sunwa 10 sp.
asking $15.00 inc.shipping,email me direct,can send photos







FOR SALE:   schwinn alum wheel set posted by: todjob on 5/9/2001 at 3:51:07 PM
Ive got an aluminunum wheel set for a schwinn 10 sp. for sale has the smaller(or)newer ghain guard on wheel,both apear to be true they do have scratches and need cleaned
asking $20.00 OBO shipping is $10.00 in u.s. email me diresct







MISC:   Upgrading Raleigh Record questions, BB and Q/R wheels posted by: Robert on 5/9/2001 at 9:38:56 AM
I traded for a nice Raleigh Record 10 speed yesterday. (Thanks again Sam!)
I plan to upgrade the shifters, derailleurs, and crank. It has the steel cottered type
of crank presently. What is an easy way to determine the length of axle/spindle
required when going to a cotterless crank? And to complicate matters , I may go to a triple chainring instead of a double.

Also I am changing the steel rimmed wheels to some alloy rimmed ones with quik release.The fork has the the "keyhole" axle hole/slot. I assume this is for the axle reataining/safety washers. The slot section is slightly narrower than Q/R axle. I am guessing that Ican open the slot up with a file. Anyone see a problem with this?

Any constructive comments appreciated.
Thanks


   RE:MISC:   Upgrading Raleigh Record questions, BB and Q/R wheels posted by Oscar on 5/10/2001 at 7:35:49 AM
I'll take a shot...

Bottom bracket spindles from between 110mm - 115mm would work for a double chain-ring. If you want to go to a triple, you'll need more room (120+?). You want the spindle to be wide enough for the small chainring to clear the chainstay. You also don't want to go too wide, which could affect the chain-line or mess up you pedaling.

Front dropouts can be filed. I opened mine by prying them out about a mm.

   Upgrading BB and Q/R wheels posted by John E on 5/10/2001 at 7:39:23 AM
I have successfully performed both upgrades on various bikes. Since the BB has standard English threads and 68mm width, installing a cotterless triple should be trivial, particularly if you purchase a modern cartridge-style sealed BB and matching crankset. With a triple, the correct axle length will cause your inner chainring to clear the chainstay by less than 5mm. If you work with a local bike shop and follow their recommendations, you should be able to exchange the BB cartridge for a longer or shorter one, if necessary. If you mail order the components, check the return policy ahead of time.

On that particular fork, I would not hesitate to file the slot enough to accept a QR axle. You can minimize the amount of filing if you are willing to orient the axle each time, such that its groove lines up along one of the dropout faces.

   RE:Upgrading BB and Q/R wheels posted by Robert on 5/10/2001 at 9:13:25 AM
Thanks ,Oscar and John, for the info.

   RE:MISC:   Upgrading Raleigh Record questions, BB and Q/R wheels posted by Jon on 5/15/2001 at 12:49:17 AM
I have a Raleigh record Ace..the one with 1020 tubing, not the 531 anywhere on it.
It's a great touring beastie-bike, especially when loaded down with full panniers.
It has a triple-chainwheel and a 6 cog rear cluster. Raleigh made the crankset.
It is worth fixing up as I am amazed how well it rides (1020 tubing). It gobbles up the
bumps and cracks that wear a guy out on a light-alloy frame.
I put aluminum wheels front and rear which helped compensate
for the relatively heavy frame. I can make measurements if you need them for the crank.
Under rated bike in my opinion.

   RE:MISC:   Upgrading Raleigh Record questions, BB and Q/R wheels posted by Jon on 5/17/2001 at 10:37:25 PM
149 mm from tip to tip on the double chainwheel spindle. That's counting the threaded sections.
I will have the triple measured after I take off the chainwheel this weekend. I can't measure
with the calipers with the chainwheels attached. The "parts-er" RA has a more severe case of the
crunch than previously observed. The left dropout was loose at the chainstay. This was corrected with a careful silver braze-up.
Now, there is detected a separation (crack) in the same stay near the cross-brace, outboard side. The damage extends about
1/2 way around and it moves a bit. I wonder if this can be repaired to a safe level. Painful to think that the whole frame might
have to be scrapped. Any ideas??






AGE / VALUE:   Old Cyclo Derailleur w/ Twist Grip posted by: desmo on 5/8/2001 at 4:46:22 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1141139040

I think this one predates Grip Shift & even Campy Bullet Shifters!


   $128 posted by John E on 5/10/2001 at 7:55:06 AM
Wow! $128, and it probably shifts like @$#^&! It appears to use the two-bolt under-the-chainstay mount we saw on that Maclean.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bottom Bracket axle length? posted by: Bob on 5/8/2001 at 2:31:13 PM
I am thinking about replacing the bottom bracket in my 60s vintage French road bike with a NOS French threaded Campy NR unit. The Campy BB is for a mid/late-70s NR crank set. If I understand correctly that means it sticks out a bit further on the drive side.
The crank that I already have and want to use is a Nervar Sport cotterless (steel arms and alloy rings). Does any one know if this crank will fit this BB, and if so, will it be in the "right place" for sprocket alignment if it does fit?


     Bottom Bracket axle length? posted by John E on 5/10/2001 at 7:43:52 AM
Hi Bob,
Both Nervar and Campy of that vintage require the drive side of the spindle to project farther than the left side. The relative positions of the cranks on the spindle should be nearly identical, although Shimano and Campy do use equal tapers with somewhat different offsets. I have Nervar Star cranks, the aluminum equivalent of your Sports, and can swap them with Stronglight B-9s and Ofmegas.






AGE / VALUE:   1937 BSA posted by: David McLinden on 5/8/2001 at 5:23:35 AM
Hi everyone. I have seen you help alot of people with info and parts , so i thought i would give it a go.I am restoring a 1937 malvern stare racing bike .(my fathers). I am in need of fluted cranks for it . if anyone has a pair for sale or could direct me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated I am in Australia , thankyou also does anyone know the email address of " Veteran cycle club" croxley green Rickmans Worth


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1937 BSA posted by Peter on 5/8/2001 at 10:23:03 PM
See www.v-cc.org.uk for the address






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Because it's French posted by: Oscar on 5/7/2001 at 8:56:51 PM
What kind of bb spindle-nut-remover do I need to remove my Stronglite 93 crank. Likewise, does it also use a weird crank puller? (Frenchie's getting a paint job). Merci beaucoup pour votre assistance.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Because it's French posted by Wings on 5/7/2001 at 11:08:24 PM
I can't picture it now but I also had that problem. I consulted the guys in my local shop that specialized in good road bikes and they had one. They are also available from Park. Check with your good bike shops -- or perhaps the information will appear below.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Because it's French posted by Eric Amlie on 5/8/2001 at 6:29:52 AM
Not sure about the nut/bolt remover. I think a very thin walled socket (16mm?) works. Be careful with the cranks though. The puller that Park makes is actually for TA cranks and is slightly smaller than what the Stronglight takes. I have used it succesfully but have been warned that it can strip the threads on the cranks if they decide to be ornery. I bought the right puller recently from Cycleart for $20 plus shipping. You might be best to have a LBS who have the right tool do it for you if this is a one time thing. Make sure they have the right tool though, not the Park TA one.

   Because it's French posted by John E on 5/8/2001 at 7:26:26 AM
To put TA Professional (3-bolt aluminum) cranks on my wife's Peugeot, I made my own thinwalled 16mm socket from a 5/8" Craftsman socket, using a bench grinder. (I later got smart and switched to standard 14mm bolts.) TA does use a special puller, but I think I used my Campy puller on my 1980 Stronglight B-9s. Standards are wonderful -- there are so many from which to choose!






AGE / VALUE:   fuji posted by: nick on 5/7/2001 at 6:38:01 PM
where would a fuji "special road racer" fall under the category of quality/rareness or price. . nitto stem & bars, vgt luxe derailuer, "belt" leather sadle,compe v front derail. looks early 70's


   Fuji posted by John E on 5/7/2001 at 7:18:56 PM
Unless it has high-grade double-butted CrMo tubing, it sounds pretty average to me. I do not think it is collectible, but it may be a decent recreational or commuting steed. I had the same (cheap but good) derailleurs on my 1971 American Eagle [Nishiki (Japanese for "brocade")] Semi-Pro. The Japanese frame builders did not really get their respective acts together until the late 1970s. Sorry, your "special road racer" is not in the 3Rensho, 1980s Team Fuji, etc. class.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   fuji posted by Jon on 5/7/2001 at 9:40:47 PM
Fuji road racers had quadbutted chr/moly 9658 tubing.
Look on the seat tube for a decal that states the
nature of the tubing. Mine tips in at a slick 23# with
touring tire on front wheel. Mine is Team Fuji model.

   Fuji posted by John E on 5/8/2001 at 7:21:40 AM
Jon, your Fuji sounds newer and significantly better. His frame predates "quad-butting."

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   fuji posted by Keith on 5/8/2001 at 1:16:56 PM
John is right -- Suntour V stuff is probably pretty old, and worth using as a rider if it suits you. Over the years, Fuji made some top-end models that may have collector interest -- this is not one of them. Fuji bikes are still imported, notably by Colorado Cyclist, which sells Fuji's current Ultegra-equiped Team model, a bargain professional machine which was used by the Mercury team last year with great success.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   fuji posted by Bob Hufford on 5/8/2001 at 7:46:41 PM
I use to have one of these in the early '70s. They were lots of folks first "good" bike. They don't have much value really, but if you put in on eBay you might find someone who just "has to have it". I'd keep the Belt saddle if it is in good shape and the Nitto stem (if it is the I-beam style that is the spitting image of the one that Rivendell is hawking on their website), then donate the rest to a bikes-for-kids center and take the tax write off. But that's just my opinion ...






AGE / VALUE:   French Sutter posted by: Bob on 5/7/2001 at 9:54:22 AM
Several years ago I purchased a bicycle marked "A. Sutter" -- it is a French 10 speed which I ride to work almost every day.

No one seems to know much about this brand so I have been hard at work. Here is what I have uncovered. Sutters were brought into this country during the bike book in the 70's. These tend to be middling machines. Mine, however, dates from 1963-64. It is not clear how it got over here. These were hand made high quality bikes and are now considered collectable in France.
At first glance these bikes are unimpressive -- no fancy lug work or paint schemes.