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Archived: Vintage Lightweights







AGE / VALUE:   Headset adjustment posted by: Peter on 7/5/2001 at 5:21:22 AM
I can do most of the maintenance work on my cycles with confidence, but one skill I have never mastered.
Does anyone have a foolproof method of adjusting the headset? I don't seem able to judge how much extra pressure the lock nut will exert when tightened. I proceed by trial and error, getting it either too tight or too slack, until I either get it correct by chance or make do.
Am I missing something?
Peter.


   Headset adjustment posted by John E on 7/5/2001 at 10:57:04 AM
That's about how I do it, as well. I find that older headsets are tougher to adjust than newer ones, perhaps due to thread and bearing surface wear. I find it far easier to adjust the headset with the front brake and handlebar properly installed. It also helps to have appropriately-sized wrenches.

I start with a little slop in the adjustment (as detected by trying to rock the bike back and forth while holding the front brake).

On some older Peugeots, the stem expander bolt can tighten the headset by causing the steerer tube to bulge.

   RE:Headset adjustment posted by Brian L. on 7/5/2001 at 12:23:25 PM
I have successfully used the same technique on all components involving a nut and locknut, such as bottom brackets (the adjustable cup), headsets and brake fixing bolts. This will not apply to modern (as well as older specialty makers such as Singer) single bolt, "Aheadset" style designs.

I agree with John that you want to find the point at which the bearings are just starting to bind in the races, perhaps a 1/4 past. Cinch the lock ring down tight while holding the adjusting nut firmly in place. This can be complicated by the design of cable hanger in the case of center pull brakes. The headset will be too tight at this point. Back the nested nuts & washers off 1/4 turn until the headset moves freely w/o play. Cinching the lock nut down in this way should prevent the assembly from backing off and loosening.

Good luck.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Headset adjustment posted by ben on 7/5/2001 at 1:58:49 PM
With a good bit of practice you can get to where you know just how tight to get the top stack, then while holding the top nut still, back the top cup into it gingerly, a little at a time. After each "cinch", check the play, and work top nut and top cup until tight. Does this make sense?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Headset adjustment posted by Wings on 7/5/2001 at 6:09:26 PM
It is definitely trial and error! The bottom bracket and head set are similar to adjust, however I think the bottom bracket takes more patience and sometimes a short ride on some bikes to get it "perfect." Some head sets are so easy and others take more patience. Make a slight adjustment, tighten and try it; repeat as needed.
Hub bearings are similar also, but easier.
It is trial and error, however experience speeds the process.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Headset adjustment posted by Warren on 7/5/2001 at 7:26:32 PM
My two cents... I always tighten the both the top cup and lock nut together until it's a little too tight. I put my bikes in a workstand and feel the tightness by "steering" the handlebars. The last thing is to hold the locknut firmly and back the cup into it. The trick here is to "guess" how much you must overtighten so that when you back off the cup, the headset rotates smoothly and firmly. It is very similar to adjusting cones on a hub.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Columbia Tourist 3 posted by: LtBoa on 7/4/2001 at 9:23:44 AM
I just picked up this Columbia Tourist 3 3 speed its in show room mint condition and 100% compleat. I an trying to get any info like the year. The S/N is 72440324 and dosent match up with the chart on this sight. Can anybody help me out thanks.







AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by: "Elvis" on 7/3/2001 at 10:20:07 PM
I recently picked up an old French road bike. It's got Wienmann centerpulls Brakes, but downtube Huret shifters and a funky looking read dureuler which is thin, and has the adjustment screws opposed to one another insted of next to each other. The brake cable for the rear brake is routed under and to the right side of the top tube and has only two brazed on mounts, on at the front and one at the back (unlike the three mounts on top of the tube used in the 1970's. I think the bike is fromt he fifties but I'm not sure; it's got wingnuts on the front wheel instead of quick release, and the cottered cranks are thin as heck and grooved out. Bike's also got wide-flange "normandy" hubs, and the gearing makes it fly up hills despite the thick schrader valve tubes and tires.
Any idea how old it is? There's no name, really, the bike just says "Paris Sports" in stylized writing on the down tube.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by Peter on 7/4/2001 at 5:09:34 AM
Sure it is French? There was a British maker called Paris - take a look at www.classicrendezvous.com/British/Paris_Galibier_main.htm. Sounds late fifties to me from the equipment.

   Old road bike: posted by John E on 7/4/2001 at 1:46:58 PM
The rear derailleur sounds like a Huret.

If the BB cups are 1-3/8" x 24 TPI, the frame is British, per Peter's suggestion. If they are 35mm x 1 T/mm, it's French.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by Bob on 7/4/2001 at 6:18:18 PM
Besides what you've given, are any other components marked with a manufacturer's name?

Frank Berto's book lists a Paris Sport as an import from France.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by Elvis on 7/4/2001 at 10:23:31 PM
Solidas cranks... The pedals are drilled out for foot clips and the bar stem is a Pivo. Other than that I don't know much about the bike. It rides great but if truth be told I actually found it in the rubbish!

   Old french road bike: posted by John E on 7/5/2001 at 11:01:41 AM
It's a sad indictment of our society that so many fine old road bikes are considered obsolete or worthless.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by Bob on 7/6/2001 at 7:13:39 AM
Given the information posted it is hard to know how old this bike is. French bikes had undertube cable routing into the mid 70s. The wing nuts on the wheels suggest 50s, but without more "clues" it would be hard to make a good guess. If you can get a copy of The Dancing Chain you could compare your components with the illustrations in the book and get a better idea of the date that way -- assuming, of course, that the current components are original.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old french road bike: posted by Elvis on 7/7/2001 at 10:24:03 PM
Many thanks to those who replied to my posting about the old "French" road bike [some research indicated a shop here in New Jersey, USA, that sold imported frames under the name "Paris Sport", so the bike could well be considered American despite some foriegn components and a French frame. I'm still working on figuring the age but you have all been much help. Thanks again!
--Elvis

   Sad indeed! posted by Elvis on 7/7/2001 at 10:29:49 PM
Personally, I think it's just plain wasteful -- especially since so many older bikes not only ride fine but in fact can have gear combinations, frame geometry, etc. not found on modern bicycles which cost a fortune. Even competent shops make it hard for the vintage enthusiast. I was told by a cycle shop last week that I couldn't get a new rear wheel for my gray and blue Raleigh Record [Campagnolo components, including downtube shifters] because the width of rear wheels is different now, to accomodate more gears.
I had to fix the existing wheel myself, which had been wrecked severely by going over a pot hole at 35 miles per hour that was easily half a foot deep.
All told, there's something that gets lost when vintage bikes are thrown away. And yet, I never can find a really rare one. I'm still waiting to find a 1930's Schwinn Paramount in the junk heap...

-- Elvis






AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Forums posted by: Eric Amlie on 7/3/2001 at 12:05:51 PM
Is anybody able to access the Schwinn forums? I haven't been able to since sometime last week. I haven't seen anyone post about it on other sites so I'm wondering if it's just me.


   Schwinn Forums -- it ain't just you, Eric! posted by John E on 7/3/2001 at 1:12:48 PM
I cannot access it, either.

   Schwinn pulled the sites! posted by Larry Stone on 7/4/2001 at 3:40:43 PM
Eric, I tryed to post too! I got a "FORBIDDEN" ERROR. Looks like the sites are closed??

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Forums posted by Kevin K on 7/5/2001 at 5:41:18 AM
Hi. You would have thought the guys that are abusing the site would have been mature enough to stop once Schwinn was willing to give it a second chance. As Jed Clampett on the Beverly Hillbillies used to say " Pityful. PI TY FUL " Kevin

   Schwinn Forums posted by John E on 7/5/2001 at 11:00:00 AM
Why does schwinn.com attract so many abusers? I have suggested that they try a login/members-only format.

   RE:Schwinn Forums posted by Eric Amlie on 7/5/2001 at 2:25:56 PM
My theory is that the Schwinn forums are largely populated by Ray/Krate aficionados who I think tend to be younger and more judgemental. I used to be young and judgemental too. Then I got old and realised how much I don't know about a great many things.

   RE:RE:RE:Schwinn Forums posted by Mike Stone on 7/10/2001 at 5:11:47 AM
I didn't see much abuse this time around. Maybe I missed something.

Also, the Krate stuff seems to have really slowed down. There were a number of fun and interesting posts about the Varsity.

   RE:RE:Schwinn Forums posted by Gary M on 7/8/2001 at 5:51:01 PM
Very possibly true, it seems like it was only a StingRay Forum. none of the other brands received much more then a Hello. No Biggie. i stirred them up a lot. the same folks are on here often.






MISC:   Advice needed on routing brake cable posted by: Kevin C. on 7/3/2001 at 6:18:19 AM
I'm putting new cables on the old Carlton 10-speed I found, and would like some advice on the center-pull brake on the front. It has a gooseneck that is quite long between the binder bolt and the hole for the handlebars. When the brake cable is routed in front of the handlebars, then, it has a pretty severe bend to it. But when I route it behind the handlebar and straight down to the brake (no bend), it seems to be in the way while riding. It works, either way. Is there a "right" way to run the cable? Thanks.


   RE:MISC:   Advice needed on routing brake cable posted by Walter on 7/3/2001 at 11:43:39 AM
Been a while since I wired a centerpull but I always brought the cable behind the bar. This gives the cable a straight "shot" at the anchor/quick release that attaches to the steerer tube, usually by being between headset nuts. You want a straight line coming into the anchor, o doubt.

   over the bars, definitely posted by John E on 7/3/2001 at 1:19:35 PM
The Capo is my only road bike with centerpulls and nonaero cables. My front brake cable comes up from the left brake handle, then down behind the handlebar and against the left side of the stem. In contrast, the stem of my mountain bike has a vertical hole/guide for the front brake cable. The hole-in-the-stem system, once popular on higher-end road bikes, has its own set of disadvantages, but it does get the front brake cable out of the way, while placing it in perfect vertical alignment, and it does have a cool retro look.

   RE:over the bars, definitely posted by Kevin C. on 7/5/2001 at 6:17:33 AM
Thanks, guys!






MISC:   28" Tyres posted by: Paul Aslanides on 7/3/2001 at 4:16:38 AM
Responding to an earlier thread, which I've only just sighted, there are at least Five different sizes in the 28" group of tyres. And although it seems to be misleading and confusing, it is quite correct for a manufacturer to have both 700 C and 28" marked on a tyre. In fact 700C belongs
in the 28" group, and that size has been with us for a hundred years or more. Wooden rims are still made in 700C
size, it Italy. Many antique bikes used this size, including
Crescent (shaft drive), Columbia (shaft drive),Massey-Harris
etc.

The following is an extract of a message originally posted by Hilary Stone.

700 647 m.m. 28 X 1 1/4 "
700 A 642 28 X 1 3/8
700 B 635 28 X 1 1/2
700 C 622 28 X 1 3/4
700 D Unique size from GT

The second column, 622 etc, is the BSD, Bead Seat Diameter,
sometimes written 622 ISO, 622 ERTRO, which I think Warren
points out in his message. Yes, it was confusing for me too, at first. Most modern tyres now have both size descriptions on them.
27 X 1 1/4 was a bastard size devised by Dunlop with 630 m.m bead seat diameter.
(And although 630 m.m bsd falls into the range above, it is still a 27 inch tyre, not a 28"!).

Whilst sorting out some old frames recently, I found I had
just enough 28" rims, and plenty of 28" tyres. Closer inspection showed that the tyres were of mixed sizes, so now I have barely enough for any future rebuilds.Aaaaagh!
Don't shoot me, I'm only the messenger. Cheers.


   RE:MISC:   28 posted by Bob on 7/3/2001 at 9:32:58 AM
I think my question started the most recent thread on this. I took a closer look at the wheelset and compared it to a 700c rim and they were the same size.
Unfortunately I guess I showed too much interest and the seller decided he wanted $150 for the wheelset. It does have "Phil" hubs that spin rather nicely, but cosmetically it is average used. And given that it has a 7 gear cluster I suspect it is at least 10 years old. I know this type hub has a good reputation but the price seems too steep to me.






WANTED:   Campy NR/SR dust covers posted by: Walter on 7/2/2001 at 5:44:53 PM
I posted this on the Campy-Only site also. I could use 1 or even 2 sets of dustcaps appropriate for N. Record/S. Record cranksets. These will be on "riders" not concours restorations so I'm not demanding aesthetic perfection. Will happily live with OK looks to save a few $ as the price for NOS on ebay is frankly more than I'm willing to pay for something as simple as a dustcap.

Got some sitting around and willing to deal? Email me


   Campy NR/SR dust covers posted by John E on 7/2/2001 at 8:08:45 PM
If you have not already done so, check www.cyclart.com. Jim sells parts covering a wide range of prices and conditions. I will ask him about Campy dust caps on Wednesday, when I get my Campy seat post hardware ($5 for a full, albeit very non-NOS, set).

   RE:Campy NR/SR dust covers posted by Walter on 7/3/2001 at 6:00:10 AM
Thank you John. I'll look up his website which I might have bookmarked and drop him a note. Please do let me know what he tells also.

   :Campy NR/SR dust covers posted by John E on 7/4/2001 at 1:49:55 PM
Jim thinks he has Campy dust caps for you, but cautions that they are getting very scarce. He showed up for today's ride with his all-original 1976 Masi Gran Criterium

   RE::Campy NR/SR dust covers posted by Walter on 7/4/2001 at 3:29:45 PM
Thanks for the info. I'll send an email and get the ball rolling. We're getting rained out here but there'll be other days.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   50 or 60's tendem posted by: sterling on 7/2/2001 at 3:29:45 PM
I recentlly acquired a BSA tandem from a swap meet and I am looking for inforamtion on its original markings and original factory equipment. I would also like to know how to date the bicycle. the only BSA indication is the emblem on the steer tube and the Dunlop rims from england. please help.

thanks







FOR SALE:   1971 Raleigh International posted by: Keith on 7/2/2001 at 11:45:29 AM
Hey guys! I've missed you! I've been busy riding and working, but I'm still here. I still have my 24" c-t Champagne green 1971 Raleigh International for sale. $650 plus shipping. It's all original except the tires. Clean, untorn original white rubber Carlton brake lever hoods, white plastic bar tape. Excellent working Campagnolo Nouvo Record Groupo (rear derailleur stamped "70") except for Weinmann centerpulls. Weinmann tubular rims on Campy high flange hubs. Original paint excellent and glossy -- no oxidization, with some small scratches here and there. Chrome Nervex Pro head lugs. Frame is straight (can be ridden no hand) no dents. The chrome is in excellent condition -- shiny, no flaking or pitting. Decals 95% intact, Reynolds 531 sticker brittle and 1/3 flaked off, Carlton seat tube sticker mostly gone. Judging from lack of wear on chainring teeth, and brake pads, plus overall condition, I'd say only 1000 or so miles on this bike. This bike has 44cm chainstays, 41" wheelbase -- comfy ride and room for mudguards -- a good audax bike. I NOW HAVE PICS TO SEND TO THOSE INTERESTED IN BUYING. Thanks! velohund@yahoo.com







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Free Univega posted by: Doug on 7/2/2001 at 6:53:53 AM
I've got an early 80's Univega Viva Sport that I need to get out of my garage. It's black with red letters, has Dia-Compe brakes, and Suntour derailers and shifters. 27" wheels, with the rear needing some attention. Needs handle-bar tape. Not in poor condition, but definitely used. Can be picked up in the Duluth MN, Superior WI area. Email me with any questions, or post here.
Thanks







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PFN-10 posted by: Glen on 7/1/2001 at 7:54:17 PM
I've just acquired a older Peugeot PFN10 (s/n B0062316), with Weinmann 500 sidepulls, Atax stem/bars, Mavic Module E rims, and Simplex derailleurs and alloy shift levers.

Two questions:
1. There appears to have been a black script decal near the back of the top tube; I assume it was the name of this particular model. Any ideas?

2. On the downtube there is half a Vitus sticker. Exactly what tubing was used?

Thanks for your help.


   PFN-10 posted by John E on 7/1/2001 at 8:13:53 PM
You need to check Russ Fitzgerald's PX-10 website (readily accessible from either classicrendezvous.com or sheldonbrown.com) to be sure, but I think you have a 1980 Peugeot with PX-10 geometry, but with Vitus tubing instead of Reynolds 531. (The serial number of my 1980 PKN-10 likewise begins "B0 ... .") See also my responses to Mike Slater's very recent post, below.

   black script on PKN-10 posted by John E on 7/1/2001 at 8:17:23 PM
The various bits of black script on the top tube of my PKN-10E read: "hand brazed" (in French and in English); "Competition" (a PX-10 would read, "Super Competition"); and "made in France." Mine also has bright orange plain text PEUGEOT decals on the downtube and a lion and fading checkerboard on each side of the seat tube.

   RE:PFN-10 posted by TEKTRO on 7/2/2001 at 3:05:40 PM
SOMETHING NEW, I DIDNT KNOW ABOUT AT THE PX-10 WEB SITE, IS THAT THE SIMPLEX REAR DERAILERS ON UP TO EARLY SEVENTIES (?) PX-10S HAD THE DATE MARKED ON THE BACK BETWEEN THE PULLEYS. SOME PX-10S ARE HARD TO DATE WITH AND WITHOUT THE SERIAL NUMBER ON THE BOTTOM BRACKET AND STICKERS AND COMPONENTS.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   HELP! posted by: Walter on 7/1/2001 at 4:26:55 PM
I'm having the most frustrating problem with tire deflation. Not when I'm on my bike but when they're sittng in my garage. I'm going to keep the tube manufactureres in business all by myself here if this keeps up.

Here's the particulars: Has happened to 2 bikes. The rear wheel of my year 2000 Univega with a new Vittoria tire and low use. Has happened 3X to my fixed gear (twice today d##! it). It's an old Schwinn but new wheels, Sun rims in the aero style. First time was with old (I mean old) tires and I chalked it up to being cheap. However I lost both my fr and rear today as it was sitting in my Park stand with brand new IRC Triathlons.

Here in Fla my garage is hot however I've lived here all my life and never had this problem before. After the Univega let go on me I've started partially deflating my tires after rides. The fixed gear today was fully inflated as I had just put the new rubber on.

What else? Rims have recessed spokes and are taped. The tubes I've looked at so far are not "snake bit" and held air fine when I inflated them in the house before putting them on the bikes in the garage. I have witnessed this 2X. The Univega let go while I was working on another bike and today after getting back from a ride I noticed the rear of my fixed gear is flat. I take it down from the stand and wheel it toward the door and the front tire goes flat. Not a pop but a sudden deflation. I've not had this problem with my Basso, Campy Moskva rims and my wife's Harding, same Sun rims as my fixed gear. What's up??!!


   valves? posted by John E on 7/1/2001 at 8:10:38 PM
I have encountered this problem on a few occasions and have attributed it to either bent or untightened Presta valve stems or sticky (or internally bent, or untightened) Schrader valve stems. If a Schrader valve core protrudes out the top of the stem, the valve cap can depress it, causing a slow leak. I now use Prestas exclusively and have not experienced spontaneous tyre deflation recently.

   More like punctures posted by Walter on 7/2/2001 at 8:40:37 AM
My first thought was valves too. However the tube out of the Univega had a nice round hole in it. Since the bike was not being ridden when it "spontaneously" deflated I'm at a loss. Haven't taken the tubes out of the fixed gear yet (getting depressing) so we'll see. Different tubes from different sources so I don't sispect a batch of defects but, who knows?

BTW all held air for a period of time before the sudden deflation so I don't think I'm installing them wrong. I've been installing tubes for probably 30 years now but I'll gladly listen to any advice.

   RE:More like punctures posted by JOEL on 7/2/2001 at 8:59:58 AM
Are the punctures always in the same spot? Maybe a burr on the rim? Seems unlikely for 2 bikes though...


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   HELP! posted by steve on 7/3/2001 at 9:58:25 AM
If the tubes are different batches and the rims are taped, how about the inflation method. Have you recently lubricated your tire pump with something that could be attacking the butyl rubber tubes. Are you using an air compressor that might be introducing oil into the airstream? This would account for the delayed action. Butyl rubber is attacked by hydrocarbon oils and diester based lubricants.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   HELP! posted by Jonathan on 7/7/2001 at 3:45:43 PM
One thing you can do to at least determine if it's an internal (tube) problem
is to mark the tire where the puncture occurs on the tube.
If the source is "external", then there must be indications on both the tire and the tube.
If the tire is OK, then you can safely hypothesize an "internal" cause; ie., something inside the tube OR between the tube and the inside surface of the
tire. Secondly, to rule out a source of puncture being related to the garage environment; try keeping the bike(s) in another garage like a neigbor's, a shed or just outside covered witha tarp.
If the bike tubes remain inflated, then you can safely assume that something in the garage is causing the punctures.
Possibly, an insect or animal of some type is taking an interest in chewing on tires and tubes. Outside of some paranormal phenomenon, I think you can trace
the source of the punctures with the information available in the replies, here.
Let us know. :-))






AGE / VALUE:   "EGADS MAN, WHAT ARE YOU DOING" posted by: Kevin K on 7/1/2001 at 8:50:33 AM
Hi. I've had a woman's frame 72 Schwinn Super Sport out in front of my house for sale the last couple days now. Well, last night I was challenged by my 16 year old on his new Schwinn mountian bike to a bit of a race. This race was on an off road course they have" worn out" in our side yard and through some near by gardens. I accepted a 3 lap challenge. I put the Super Sport into the lowest poss. gear. I'd never had the bike into this gear and when we took off I did a "wheelie" I now had to catch up as he had a good lead on me. So off I went, shifted in higher gears and easily caught up. I passed him of all places in a turn and shifted back into a lower gear. I never shifted again. I stayed in one gear and out ran him all the while I heard All this clicking behind me as my son " attempted " to catch this 47 year old on this almost 30 yr. old, outdated piece of Schwinn history. Who says new is better. Kevin


   Good job!   posted by Walter on 7/1/2001 at 4:56:37 PM
Gotta keep the youngsters honest especially as the sad truth is that time is on their side.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by log on 7/1/2001 at 9:26:38 PM
Sounds like me and my dad. He is three times my age and can still beat my Concord with his Raliegh. ( He also has not ridden much in the last 12 or 13 years!)
Good Job though!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Wings on 7/1/2001 at 10:00:51 PM
Obviously it has nothing to do with age or muscle!
Of course a Chicago Schwinn would beat a new Taiwan model any day!!!! Is your son's Schwin under the "for sale" sign now???? :)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Bob on 7/2/2001 at 5:30:48 PM
In the early 60s I rode with a fellow who regularly made the trek from Salt Lake City to Park City on hiking trails. His mount was a Pugeot which he raced every weekend during the season. These were rough trails and the climb up and over the Wasatch mountains is not easy particularly using "road" gearing. His "secret" was silk sewup tires which apparently could stand up to a good deal of abuse.
By the way, on roads or other relatively hard surfaces a mountain bike is ill-matched against a road bike. As an overweight old codger I find I seldom have any trouble overtaking even the most exotic mountain bike with my none-too-exotic road bikes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Jim on 7/2/2001 at 8:06:56 PM
Hey KC ! It's worse on the receiving end, as I was dusted on my all 531c Dawes Atlantis last Wednesday by a good friend on his 11 year old son's Schwinn (read "China") Hybrid. No computer to reference, but he had to be holding a solid 20 mph. More credence to Lance's book title (It's Not About the Bike !)






AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by: Jonathan on 7/1/2001 at 1:40:51 AM
Somebody had pounded an oversized seat post down into the seat tube of a miyata mtb that I bought
at a thrift shop for $40. The bike is mid-80's touring mtb; "Terra Runner",
in very near perfect condition. 43" wh. base, triple-butted/ chro-moly (spline) all over.
Braze-ons for two water cages; rack and 4 anchors for panniers and fenders front and rear! The problem was that I couldn't budge the seat post, which made the bike
almost useless. I tried locking the seat anchor in a 10" woodvise and twisting and pulling which provided enough
force to pull the swaged anchor clean out of the post! What to? Maybe there's a slicker way, but I made use of a 14" Stillson (pipe wrench) to do the extraction. The trick
is to grip the post at a slight angle and pull up as you twist the post. It takes about 30 rotations so be ready to sweat a little. WD-40 is useful to lubricate the
surfaces. I brcaed the bike against the workbench and used my foot to press on the bottom of the rear wheel to provide counter-resistance. I mean, this was on so tight that it screeched
and there was friction enough to produce some vapor. If somebody has a better solution, please let me know. I hope this helps somebody out. I spent a lot of time banging and tugging along with the usual
verbal abuse, before I stumbled on this fix, crude as it is. Needless to say, the decision has to be made
beforhand, that the resultant damage to the seat post will negate any practical use it may have after
the wrench gets through with chewing it up.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Oscar on 7/1/2001 at 4:27:38 PM
The moron who couldn't measure a seatpost most probably the same kind who would hammer the post in. Here's what I would do - saw off the seat post to half an inch above the frame. Then take a one handled hack saw and cut the inside of the seatpost within the frame. Careful not to cut into the seat tube. This should relieve the stress against the seat tube. When you're through the seatpost, squeeze the post with a vise grip.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Kevin C. on 7/1/2001 at 5:59:30 PM
Sounds like a good way to do it. A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) with a metal-cutting blade would make the job go a lot faster. I have heard many times that the best way to extract a frozen seatpost is to bolt a junker bicycle seat on and use it to twist the lubricated post free.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by log on 7/1/2001 at 9:29:48 PM
Even better, I had a Genus pound the rear seat post on my tandem all the way in! (it's a long post and it's still there!!!)

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Wings on 7/1/2001 at 10:08:45 PM
Sawzall? You serious??? It would go through that like butter -- I would not do that! The single hacksaw blade would also be hard to not go too far and if you cannot saw the entire length would it not just weaken what you can pull on?
I have used lots of liquid wrench and an old bike seat tightened down and just keep turning and squeezing liquid wrench. At a certain point it frees up and moves out faster.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/2/2001 at 12:21:10 PM
Go to http://www.Sheldonbrown.com and find his article on stuck seat posts.

A sawsall is a wonderfull tool, but not in the bike world.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Peter on 7/3/2001 at 4:10:21 AM
Just solved the same problem last night on a cheap MTB I got from the junkyard. It had a steel seat post that had been put 'dry' into a steel frame. I soaked it in Plus Gas for a while, couldn't turn it with a wrench (Third Hand) or with the old seat. Drilled a hole right through it to take a short rod, which gave the wrench something against which it could not rotate. Working it back and forth eventually got the post rotating slightly, then out it came. Hope this helps, Peter.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Wings on 7/3/2001 at 10:40:30 PM
Excellent idea of drilling a hole in the stem! Steel rod thhrough a hole could even be used without a wrench in some cases too. Great idea! Next time I will try it!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by WIngs on 7/3/2001 at 10:43:22 PM
Actually a phillips screw driver (quarter inch) could fit through a hole and the handle, kept close to the stem would be easy go grip and twist back and forth!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Yanking a jammed seat post posted by Jonathan on 7/7/2001 at 4:16:31 PM
Thanks for the ideas. The hole/bolt approach sounds pretty good. A variation on the hacksaw
approach: I have a brake-cylinder honing attachment for a drill. It takes aluminum out real fast...insideout. If care was taken, this could
take off the lower (stuck) part of the post. You'd have to release the hone and let it drop to the BB. Then use the old junker seat to work the greatly thinned
seatpost out.






AGE / VALUE:    posted by: log on 6/30/2001 at 9:12:52 PM
I saw a beautiful bike yesterday. It was a late 70's(?) Concord Classic. Unfortunately it was being mistre3ated by it's owner. If I hadn't been in a hurry I would have waited on the guy and tried to buy it. I am a die-hard Concord fan, but I don't remember the Classic. It was a higher end bike ( dad said he looked at concord's Higher end in 1977 when he bought his Raliegh, but dosen't remember the Classic)
Does any one know or remember the Classic?