OldRoads.com

This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights







MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by: Gralyn on 1/29/2002 at 4:23:51 PM
I had posted a message earlier regarding converting to a fixed gear...but I could not find the post in the archives - and I can't remember much of the "how to's". Can you take a wheel with a free-wheel...and convert it to fixed gear? I am totally clue-less here. Do you remove the cluster and replace with fixed gear parts? Any information will be much appreciated.

Thanks.


   RE:MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by Oscar on 1/29/2002 at 4:41:26 PM
Easy, fun, and just a little frustrating. You're on the right track. Spin the freewheel off the hub, and a track cog will spin right on. Remove whichever chainring you don't want to use off.

The only trick is to get the chainline right. What I have done is to swap all the spacers from the driveside of the hub to the nondriveside. This puts the track cog in a better line with the chainring. After doing this, you need to redish the wheel because swapping spacers will place your rim more to the right than the center of the chainstays.

There's more details of course...

   Converting to fixed gear posted by John E on 1/29/2002 at 5:51:22 PM
One can also reverse the orientation of the BB spindle and/or mount the chainring in the inside position, perhaps using longer stackbolts and spacers to move it even farther inboard.

   RE:MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by Walter on 1/29/2002 at 11:19:00 PM
With a '70s vintage LeTour I got a good chainline by mounting the chainwhel on the inside of the spider and, as John E. suggests, reversing the BB spindle.

If you put a track cog on a FW hub use loctite or such as resisting the pedals can break the cog loose.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by Gralyn on 1/30/2002 at 12:26:44 AM
One question:
How do I get the gear cluster off? It's on a Shimano hub...probably from early 80s. I actually don't know how to take a gear cluster off! I don't even know how they are put on.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by Walter on 1/30/2002 at 2:31:38 AM
Early 80s should be a FW as opposed to the more modern freehub/cassette assembly. The short answer esp. if this is becoming a fixed gear anyways is to take it to a bikeshop. They won't charge more than the tool you need to do it yourself.

If you're going to be doing this regularly you need a Shimano FW remover and preferably a good bench clamp. It's a small tool that is splined or notched as the case may be to fit inside the FW. The outer end of the tool has flats so a big adjustable wrench can properly grab it. The FW unthreads as a unit in the same direction it turns or opposite the freewheeling direction. Actually the bench clamp is better than the wrench. Insert tool. Secure it in place with QR lever. Put in clamp and tighten clamp so as to hold tool firmly. Now with the leverage of the wheel turn in the proper direction and the FW should break loose pretty easily.

Not really hard but if this isn't something you think you'll do often I'd just go to the shop and give the mechanic 5$ and be done with it.

Modern freehubs/cassettes are one area where I have to admit modern designs are clearly better. Cogs are separate and both they and the spacers are held in place with a relatively easy to remove lockring. With Campy the cassette tool also fits the BB which is nice.

   But... posted by Oscar on 1/30/2002 at 2:40:35 AM
...cassettes don't last as long as freewheels. Therefore, it's a good thing that cassettes are easier to remove. But if you keep your chain clean, your freewheel will last a billion miles.

   RE:But... posted by Walter on 1/30/2002 at 2:56:20 AM
Good point there no doubt. If you're going to run a large # of gears 7+ the freehub does place the bearings wider and supports the axle better. Can't rgue with the durability of FWs though. I have a SunTour from the mid-80s going strong.

Gralyn I just reread your post and realized that I assumed a Shimano FW. The dangers of assumption... Broadly speaking most any bramd FW could have threaded onto that Shimano hub so if you're going FW tool shopping make sure you know the brand of the FW. My money is Shimano or Suntour but you need to be sure.

   RE:MISC:   Converting to fixed gear posted by Keith on 1/30/2002 at 5:06:00 PM
Parts needed: (1) fixed gear ($10-25 from LBS);(2)chainring spacers ($1 @ from LBS); and (3) English thread bb lockring. Tools needed: (1) freewheel tool (< $10 from LBS); (2) chain tool; (3) chain whip (optional); (4) misc. wrenches and screwdrivers. Other materials: (1) Loctite; (2) degreaser (like Simple Green). Steps: (1) remove derailleurs, shifters, and shifter cables and clamps; (2) remove freewheel from rear hub; (3) clean hub, fixed gear and lockring threads thoroughly with degreaser; (4) apply Loctite to threads; (5) install fixed gear, thighten with chain whip (or improvise using length of chain); (6) install lockring; (7) install wheel on frame; (8) break, shorten and reassemble chain to accomodate inner chainring and fixed gear -- not tight, have 1/2 to 1" slack -- NO MORE. If necessary (judge by sight -- straighness of chain, and sound -- should run smoothly and quietly), improve chain line by installing spacers between inside of crank arm and inner chainring (easiest way), or move hub axle spacers from drive side to non-drive side and re-dish wheel (takes more time). Fixed gear safety: (1) leave both brakes on -- trust me on this. (2) the spinning drivetrain can remove your fingers -- watch out! (3) the fixed gear is an impatient teacher -- it will kick you like a mule if you suddenly forget to pedal -- like when you hesitate to clip in your pedals, when you stand up to go over a bump, when you reach for your waterbottle or something in your jersey, when you start going downhill, or when you just plain get tired and want to stop pedaling. I just built one up for a recent convert, and plan to build yet another for myself with an early '70s Bottechia frame. Have fun!

   RE:RE:MISC:  FIXED GEAR SAFETY posted by Warren on 1/30/2002 at 10:56:20 PM
Keith has covered everything here...I just want to re-emphacize one of his points. NEVER leave your fixed gear bike in a bikestand if you have kids. The first thing my two and four year olds want to do is spin the cranks on a bike and a fixed gear drivetrain is equivalent to a meat grinder. If I want to leave the bike in the stand I always use leg straps to secure the rear wheel (and the front to prevent the bars from dinging the top tube).

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:  FIXED GEAR SAFETY posted by Keith on 1/31/2002 at 6:38:51 PM
Good suggestion. I recall an article in Bicycle Trader than mentioned a 6-day race mechanic who was missing fingers.






MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by: Dick on 1/28/2002 at 3:16:49 PM
Did anyone on this group win that nice old Carlton frame on ebay yesterday? What a bagain!


   RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by Walter on 1/28/2002 at 4:25:25 PM
I looked at it at the beginning of the auction but didn't keep an eye on it. I noticed the brazed on guide for a rear centerpull brake. That should have been standard on any decent bike but as I recall as fairly rare. Nothing more irritating than a rear centerpull with a guide that moves everytime you turn the seat bolt.

   RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by dafydd_williams on 1/28/2002 at 5:43:51 PM
That would be me. I already have a Carlton I'm building up, but I'm a sucker for nice lugwork! Unfortunately it's something that going to have to go in the closet until I finish up some other odds and ends.

There's also a decent Dunelt frameset up on ebay (not mine) if anyone's interested. Paint is not great but possibly could be a good buy. I'd buy it if I had the money.

   RE:RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by Dick on 1/28/2002 at 6:45:36 PM
Congradulations dafydd_williams (that's a nice name!). I have to agree, very nice lugwork. Not as crisp as what comes out of the custom shops in the UK today (Bob Jackson, Ron Cooper, Jack Taylor, etc.) but very nice for the period. You're lucky my better (smarter) half has confiscated my bank card. I wouldn't have let you have it for that cheap. Just let me have the next one, OK? Enjoy.

   RE:RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by Warren on 1/29/2002 at 12:59:13 AM
Great frame...wish I had one in my size...I've tried to find that Dunelt but my name searches don't show it. If you see it again, could you post the location?

Congrats...

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by dafydd_williams on 1/29/2002 at 2:38:59 PM
Sorry, I forgot to mention they spelt it "Denult." Why, I don't know...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1067932028&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1012630968&indexURL=0&rd=1

Good luck, and cheers,
david

   RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by Tom on 1/29/2002 at 2:44:30 PM
Here ia a headbadge that might go with that frame. Better act quick before it is gone. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1067021759&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1012368360&indexURL=0&rd=1

   RE:RE:MISC:   CARLTON FRAME SOLD ON EBAY posted by Warren on 1/29/2002 at 11:17:03 PM
I'll make abet that that frame is a Raleigh Dunelt from the mid to late 60's. Look at the made in England Script on the top tube and the paint job reminds me of the Grand Prix's and Records of the 60s and 70s






FOR SALE:   NOS Mafac Levers with Hoods posted by: bikeyard@mindspring.com on 1/27/2002 at 3:08:32 PM
FS NOS Mafac Levers with white hoods. $35 shipped
Email for photos and purchase.
Thanks JIm







FOR SALE:   FS NOS Parts posted by: bikeyard on 1/27/2002 at 2:22:52 PM
FS NOS Parts

1. MKS Sports pedals 9/16 axles nice $32 shipped 5 sets available
2. NOS Schwinn twin stick S levers for your 10 speed Varsity etc. $22 shipped 2 available

Email for photos and purchase
Thanks Jim







AGE / VALUE:   LIBERTAS 10 sp. posted by: Jonathan on 1/27/2002 at 8:31:56 AM
Anyone know anything about a "Libertas" 10 sp. bike. The bike looks to be early 60's due to the cottered cranks.
I might buy it for $25 at the thrift store where it sits amongst a jumble of bike boom junkers. Something about it smacks of quality
in both workmanship and design. The scant decalling is all but obliterated, especially where a licsense sticker obscures
one and the water cage on the seat tube has managed to scrape another. There is
"bel...." on part of one decal. The lugs have paint trim on the exposed edges. The downtube shifters are really ancient
looking Shimano. It's probably not any big find, except there is just something about the frame that makes it distinguished
from the rest of the heap. No damage apparent besides the normal nicks common to bikes that have survived years of riding and then years of dormancy in a shed or outside on a patio.
I'm just curious about this bad boy. Thanks.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   LIBERTAS 10 sp. posted by Walter on 1/27/2002 at 2:08:49 PM
When in doubt run to the "bible."
Libertas
"There were a lot of these with 531 maintubes. Parts were often a bizarre mix of names rarely heard in the U.S. Such bikes are probably worth $200 or so. Bikes with better components and full 531 frames would have values approaching $500. [Belgium]"

The presence of Shimano makes me think it's newer than the early '60s. If so the cottered cranks are a sign of lesser quality. Look for the Reynolds decals.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   LIBERTAS 10 sp. posted by Jonathan on 1/28/2002 at 7:21:36 AM
Thanks for the rundown. I need to swing by there and get another look.
The Shimano shifters may be on another bike that's a Motobecan (sp.?).
All of my recollection was an afterthought when I got home. The 531 sounds
like a long bet on this one, but it had chrome tipped forks and alloy rims.
Maybe it was a simplex derailer, not shimano. The "Bel..." must be "Belgium", based on your
knowledge. That's interesting to me. I have to go check it out.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   LIBERTAS 10 sp. posted by Walter on 1/28/2002 at 4:22:02 PM
Rereading my post I realize that I didn't attribute my source. The quote is from Vintage Lightweight Priceguide and you can find it fishing around SheldonBrown.com. I don't have the direct link on this computer.

With the aluminum rims I agree that it's worth a second look. Ususlly cheaper bikes with cottered cranks had steel rims as well. Reynolds decals are fragile so if they were there, they're probably gone. Try to get a feel for weight epecially if there are some known cheapos around. Try pinging the tubes. I'm tone deaf but many can tell a quality frame by sound. Good luck.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   LIBERTAS 10 sp. posted by Keith on 1/28/2002 at 8:22:57 PM
With all due respect, I'd like to subject the pinging theory with a blindfold test. Frames I've ever dealt with ring beautifully -- regardless of quality -- much like a bell or tuning fork -- if you take everything off it and suspend it by a wire or string. IMHO the sound has mostly to do with cable routing (clamps and the like). I judge quality by whether the brazing is even (no gaps or overfilling), whether the mitering is clean (as viewed from inside the bb shell), and whether the alignment is acurate (as judged by viewing down the tubes and using a thread strung around the head tube from both dropouts).

   ping! posted by John E on 1/28/2002 at 9:29:30 PM
I agree. A Peugeot UO-8 "pings" almost as nicely as a PX-10 (and neither passes the brazing quality test).

   RE:ping! posted by Oscar on 1/29/2002 at 10:06:58 PM
What note should it ring?






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Info Needed on Raleigh Professional posted by: Mark on 1/27/2002 at 1:29:08 AM
I have come across what looks like a nice vintage Raleigh Pro. The serial number is A7809 - that looks like a 1966 model. Is that true? Is that the first year of the Pro model? It also has the seat stays that come in more of the rear of the seat tube - I think that is older than the ones that come in on the side more. Also - this bike looks to have been painted. It is orange with no chrome. There is also no "Raleigh" decal on the downtube, but all other decals seem to be present. Is that an original paint scheme/ decal scheme for an older Pro? All the Campy components are there. Can you comment on the serial number, year of manufacture, paint and decals? And - what would a bike as I have described be worth - should I pay $550 for it?


    Raleigh Professional posted by John E on 1/27/2002 at 4:49:15 AM
My wife's brother has a white ca. 1970 Raleigh Pro, which predates the popular silver-blue-gray period, and which came with Weinmann centerpull brakes, including a brazed-on cable stop bridge across the seat stays. Because yours is a repaint, $550 sounds high to me, but prices of fine vintage bikes have been rising significantly over the past year.

Since Campy downsized from 151 to 144mm BCD in 1967, a 1966 Raleigh Pro should have 151 rings and spider (minimum tooth count = 44).

   RE: Raleigh Professional posted by Mark on 1/27/2002 at 6:35:13 AM
I don't know if it a repaint - that's what I am trying to find out. All the decals are there except one on the downtube. I was wondering if that color - orange - was an option and if they might have come without that decal. It is just odd that all the decals would be there except for the downtube decal.






AGE / VALUE:   Determining age posted by: Dick on 1/27/2002 at 1:01:44 AM
Hey Guys,
I nee your help. I posted a few days ago about my free Raleigh Grand Prix. I began stripping it down today. I found that all of the "R" nuts (F&R axle, seat clamp, crank cotter) as well as the chainring bolts are all Whitworth. At what time period (approx. year) did Raleigh switch from Whitworth to metric? This would be a very valuable piece of info when guessing the age of a bike. Another tip that I will offer here is that bikes (at least those sold in bike shops) didn't come with reflectors attached until about 1972. I don't think it was government mandated, it was one of those "the-industry-better-do-it-before-they-make-us-do-it" things. Of course anyone buying a Paramount, Masi, PX10, etc. yanked them off right away. So if your bike has a hint of factory installed reflectors, i.e. those front brake cable housing stops that stuck out with a downward bend at the end for attaching the front reflector, you can bet it is a post early 70's model. My Grand Prix did have reflectors on the pedals but no hint of them anywhere else. Also, I've seen reference to catalogues on this discussion board. Where do you guys find catalogues to look at? I don't want to own them, I just want to do the research. If I could pin down the precise model year of each of my bikes I might be inclined to buy one for each of (or some of)my bikes. But I don't want to buy them (or reproductions of them) on speculation.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Determining age posted by Warren on 1/27/2002 at 5:25:03 AM
I don't know that there is an answer to the question especially when it comes to hubs and British bikes. Add BB's, freewheels and lockrings to really confuse things. Not only did Raleigh set their own standards, so did others. Case in point, I have a Phillips hub and a Solite hub, both track hubs, both circa late 40's early 50's. They use different lockrings. Makes me crazy. I think you will have better luck dating the bike using frame decals, serial number, paint scheme and components as a guide rather than threading...

BTW, find out when Raleigh took over Carlton because at that time they used those same R nuts with C's on them. I think I found some on a Grand Prix...with C's. Mine are on a 50's Dunelt cuz they look cool. I guess it's whitworth...






AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn super Le tour posted by: Greg on 1/26/2002 at 10:56:43 PM
I have a Schwinn super Le tour.4130 double butted top and bottom tubes. Can some one define bottom tubes for me. I know what the top tube is. Is there any worth to this bike as far as building it into a commuter bike. I have no idea as to what year this bike is. Any guesses?Thank you Greg


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn super Le tour posted by Walter on 1/26/2002 at 11:49:22 PM
The bottom tube starts at the...bottom, bottom bracket actually (where the crankset lies) and runs up to the steerer tube;from which forks and handlebar stem emerge (opposite ends of course). The top, bottom, seat and steerer tubes are often referred to as the main triangle. Yeah, I know a triangle with 4 legs... Probably more info than you needed.

A Super LT is a fine bike and one in good repair is already a fine commuter with no real work needed. If you live in a hilly area you can upgrade your brakes simply by installing modern stainless steel cables and aftermarket pads. Many swear by Kool Stops and I've used Scott-Matthausers in the past, either is a great improvement. You can be more complicated and install Shimano RX100 long reach dual pivot calipers. Tremendous improvement but maybe not completely necesary. Super LTs might have switched to short reach brakes by your model year. If so then any new roadbike brakeset will work. Your call.

Unless the gearing is inappropriate for where you live I can't think of much else. Some install flat bars, not my favorite mod but your bike, your call. There are Schwinnophiles here that can help with the S/N. I can't tell you much.

Is the bike chrome? If so way cool. If not still pretty OK.

     Schwinn super Le tour posted by John E on 1/27/2002 at 4:53:12 AM
Pleaes post the 4-digit number stamped into your head badge. The first three digits are the day of the year (001 = 1 Jan, 365 = 31 December in non-leapyears), and the last digit is the last digit of the year.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn super Le tour posted by Kevin K on 1/27/2002 at 2:09:28 PM
Hi. The Schwinn Letour was built over a 20 year plus time starting I believe late 73 or early 74. Basic components and stamped steel dropouts. As time went on the Letour matured. Alloy wheels v steel. 4130 butted frames. Forged dropouts. I've a 1984 Letour Luxe. It is made of Columbus tubing. 15 speed. Also set up with cantilever brakes.Unlike most Letours this bike was built in the USA at the Greenville plant. I found a 12.2 a couple years ago. The man bought it new in 77-78. Not even the cotton bartape had any sign of wear. His price was $150 firm. The bike was Scarlet. Oh how I wish now I would have bought it. I think the Letour line of Schwinn bikes overall offers excellent value. Nice smooth bikes. Easy to work on and parts are not an arm and leg to replace. So enjoy your Super Letour. Kevin K

   RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Greg on 1/28/2002 at 5:53:07 PM
The head badge number is 0976 Thanks Greg

   RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Greg on 1/28/2002 at 5:54:35 PM
This model is a 12.2 Super Letour. Greg

   RE:RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Wings on 1/29/2002 at 4:26:08 AM
I have a Le Tour that I picket up for $12. Excellent shape, brilliant red paint with "Schwinn" painted on the down tube. The "Schwinn" is in a striped pattern like I have seen on some (80's ?) crusers. It has Stronglight cranks and DOWN TUBE shifters. This looks newer than other Le Tours I have seen -- How late did Schwinn make them?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Oscar on 1/29/2002 at 5:37:02 AM
Schwinn is still making them (or were as of last year). The new ones are basic road bikes with downtube shifters (which is a rarity in these days of STI and ERGO).

   RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Walter on 1/30/2002 at 2:44:56 AM
The 97th day of 1976 or 1986? I'd guess '86 as I don't think the Super LTs were out in '76. What are the components and most importantly, does it index shift? If so definitely not '76 though "click" shifting wasn't completely universal by '86 either. With Oscar's info I guess it could even be a '96. Tell us about shifters and cranks.

   RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Walter on 1/30/2002 at 2:47:30 AM
The 97th day of 1976 or 1986? I'd guess '86 as I don't think the Super LTs were out in '76. What are the components and most importantly, does it index shift? If so definitely not '76 though "click" shifting wasn't completely universal by '86 either. With Oscar's info I guess it could even be a '96. Tell us about shifters and cranks.

Oscar, given what has happened to Schwinn lately I'd have to guess the bell has finally tolled for the LeTour. A remarkably long run as a legacy though.

   RE:RE:RE:  Schwinn super Le tour posted by Greg on 1/30/2002 at 10:53:28 PM
This bike has 600R der. 60 F der. Letour crankset. Dia comp brakes. Shifters mounted on stem. Friction,not 600.
Thanks






AGE / VALUE:   Who runs Italian bike sites? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/26/2002 at 5:31:22 PM
Besides Classsics Rendezvous, What other web sites are out there that will scan and post catalogs? I want to donate some. Slew of Italian stuff, names I cannot remember. Im getting some of this stuff out, and hopefully I'll see it added for all to enjoy.

I look at some of the old bicycling magazines and I ask myself "Who put this together?"







MISC:   1973 Revisited... posted by: Rob on 1/26/2002 at 5:08:04 AM
I was rummaging around in a large thrift shop and 'lucked' into a copy of the June 1973, 'Popular Mechanics'.

On the cover is a blue 'Campy-looking', Paramount, about 59 cm c/t. The cover of the mag. promises, on page 98, the following article, "BEST BIKES YOU CAN BUY, chosen and rated by bicycle expert, Eugene Sloane". Turning to page 98, we see a photo of Eugene on what looks to be a Paramount with bar-end shifters...were they all the rage in '73?...I certainly can't remember. The article covers a wide range of bicycles, based on various age groups (people), and price/quality levels, with photographs and concise and informative descriptions. Some of the photos are color; some, b/w.

There are too many to list here, but included are a Nishiki Semi-Pro Competition, Fuji Road Racer S 10-S, a PX-10, a DBS La Migliore Professionale (I hadn't heard of this make before...it's an Italian-sounding bike from Norway), a Raleigh Grand Prix, a lime-green Paramount P15-9, a pinkish-looking Jeunet 620...supporting an attractive woman with a 'Texas bouffant'...and many, many kid's bikes...Huffy Dream Cycle, Schwinn Breeze and Pixie, Raleigh Mountie, AMF Voyager, Columbia Cricket...

Details are there about derailleurs, etc...most of the bike weights are there...the PX-10 is 21 lbs, the Paramount, 25 lbs, the Grand Prix, a hefty 30 to 31 lbs...I could go on.

I guess this edition would now serve as a primer for the reasonably informed...the photos are small, but if you have an idea of what the components should have been, this article could help confirm it...try your local library...

All in all...a warm, fuzzy reprise of the early 1970's.


   1973 Revisited... posted by John E on 1/26/2002 at 10:34:44 PM
Thanks for posting, Rob. Yes, barcons, particularly those great SunTour ratchet jobs, became very popular about that time. At $170, the double-butted Ishiwata CrMo Nishiki SemiPro from Kawamura was a decent value (I rode a 1971 for 20 years until the frame gave out), but it weighed 27lbs (25 with my tubular wheelset) and lacked the lively response of a good Italian bike of the same vintage.

   RE:MISC:   1973 Revisited... posted by smg on 1/28/2002 at 5:23:04 PM
In the early/mid '70s, "Consumer Reports" put out a series of bicycle buyers' guides that reviewed/rated bikes in various price/type categories. They're an absolute gold mine of info on bike-boom era bicycles, and can sometimes be found in libraries. Worth looking for,

   RE:MISC:   1973 Revisited... posted by Keith on 1/28/2002 at 8:07:21 PM
Barcons were popular additions in the 1970s -- Suntour ratchet was considered the best. They were the first aftermaket item I put on my otherwise all Campy mercian in 1973. I've used several pair of Suntour since then. I recently installed a set of vintage Campy barcons and like them even better -- smooth light action, much like Campy downtube shifters, and without the ratchet you can better feel the shifting on a 7-speed freewheel. Barcons were popular with the peloton in the mid-1950s -- I don't know why they ever went out of style with racers.






FOR SALE:   Guerciotti Jersey posted by: Jeff on 1/25/2002 at 11:38:42 PM
I have a 1980's Guerciotti wool jersey I would be willing to sell. It is in fine shape with embroidered logo's for Guerciotti, Clement, and Campagnolo, and a G-star Iron on.
It is a size medium with 3 bottle pockets in the back. e-mail unkle_spike@yahoo.com for more info.







VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Working with a Master posted by: Dan on 1/25/2002 at 11:17:13 PM
" Come spring when the violet's have risen we will build racing frame's, three" Mr. Langhy tell's me in his old world Hungarian accent. I'm an apprentice.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Working with a Master posted by John on 1/26/2002 at 1:12:18 AM
Dan's the man!

Read your earlier trail, it's great.






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help? posted by: Art on 1/25/2002 at 2:09:11 PM
Would someome tell me what this is, exactly? I can't quite figure it out.
e-bay # 1066580429


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help? posted by Warren on 1/25/2002 at 2:57:51 PM
It looks like a...a...ohmigod...it's a BIKE. And it has "two lobed cam on the bottom bracket, upon which rides a roller-bearing bellcrank that is linked to the chain ring carrier by way of a sector gear." WOW.

Seriously Art...I can't see anything in those dark pics...let us know if you figure it out

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help? posted by Warren on 1/25/2002 at 3:03:47 PM
Go to http://www.classicrendezvous.com/USA/PowrCam_main.htm This "power cam" is a mechanical method of reducing stress on the legs while pedalling...just like Biopace. Sound a little overcomplicated, unlike Biopace.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help? posted by Art on 1/25/2002 at 10:34:21 PM
Gee, thanks Warren. I'm new to this "bike" collecting thing. I thought they were two unicycles welded together. I followed your lead and read the CR post and I still don't understand how the thing works, but I think the gear thingee will look good on this Rene Herse (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1067261389) I'm buying now on e-bay. Thanks for your help, Art.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help? posted by Warren on 1/26/2002 at 4:47:47 AM
Sorry...gotta bad case of bad humour today...stoopid even...






VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh "Grand Sports" = "Gran Sport"? posted by: Lenny Dintenfass on 1/25/2002 at 11:21:43 AM
I've just bought an apparently well-used (but well-maintained) '73 Raleigh "Grand Sports" (many thanks to SMG, whose post here on oldroads altered me to this bike for sale at Recycled Cycles in Seattle). I've got perhaps a trivial question, but perhaps Raleigh enthusiasts out there will understand. All of the '70s era Raleigh catalogs I have ever seen picture this bicycle as the "Gran Sport" model in their catalog, yet this particular example is labelled "Grand Sports" in the usual Raleigh Script. The bike appears to be genuine Raleigh in all other respects (including the use of Whitworth-sized nuts). It has a surprisingly long wheelbase (42 1/4 inches) and has white Blummels fenders that apparently were factory-installed (attached with Whitworth nuts). Can anyone suggest why this is labelled "Grand Sports" rather than "Gran Sport"?

Regards,

Lenny Dintenfass


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh posted by Dick on 1/27/2002 at 12:56:47 AM
OK Lenny, I was hoping someone else would answer this, but I guess not. Mind you, I'm not speaking from any position of authority on this. I own a 1980 Raleigh GS. The "GS" stands for the Campy Nuovo "Gran Sport" gruppo used on the bike. I don't think that the Competition GS model went back as far as '73 (your bike's model year). It could be that Raleigh, when they decided to introduce the Competition GS model dropped the "Grand Sports" model (or the Comp GS replaced it) when they came out with the Competition GS. The Retro Raleigh site is a little sketchy on this. They admit that their "Cronology of Models" is a work in progress and ask for input from readers. Since they've not answered any of my emails, I'm not offering anything I know. They can read it here. I noticed that the "Chronology" list's the following: 1968 Competition with Gran Sport cranks and Huret Jubilee derailleurs, 1970 Gran Sport with Stronglight/Simplex/Nervar/Normandy, 1977 Competition GS with Campy GS gruppo, 1983 Gran Sport with all Jap components, and 1983 Competition with all Jap components (note in 1983 there were both a Competition and a Gran Sport). Also on the Retro Raleigh site, if you click on "Competition" there is a photo of a black 1979 Competition GS that looks identicle to mine. And just below that photo is the "Technical specifications" from the official 1978 Raleigh catalogue. If this isn't confusing enough for you, consider that any one of the Raleigh Retro site info could easily include typo's (Gran vs. Grand, Sports vs. Sport). Now I think I understand why no one wanted to answer your question. Then maybe I don't under your question.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh posted by Lenny on 1/27/2002 at 2:19:17 PM
Hello Dick,

Thanks for you thoughts. I think my initial posting was a bit diffuse and not quite to the point...I was really just trying to figure out if perhaps in 1973 there might have been two variants on this bicycle available in the US: a "Gran Sport" and a "Grand Sports". Maybe the only difference was just that the decals used by Raleigh in that year varied in their spelling due to the whim of a typesetter! A trivial mystery, but that's part of the charm of restoring and riding these pleasant-to-ride bikes.

Note to English Raleigh addicts here in the U.S.: Whitworth spanners or wrenches will make working on these bikes much more enjoyable (and allows you to enjoy their "charm" without too many "discouraging words".

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/27/2002 at 6:36:08 PM
This fellow's question is absolute proof that there is a ton of work left to do.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Whitworth Tools posted by Dick on 1/28/2002 at 2:34:17 PM
Lenny, your suggestion about obtaining Whitworth tools is a good one. I have already done some web-searching for them and nothing I've found is exactly a bargain. The cheapest I found are made in Spain (ACESA) but I don't know about the quality. Can anyone in this group recommend a good source for Whitworth tools?






FOR SALE:   Ross Super Grand Tour posted by: paul on 1/25/2002 at 1:23:58 AM
TOO MANY BICYCLES, SOUND FAMILIAR? ca 1980 Ross(Allentown, PA) 10 speed 1020 tempered steel lugged frame Shimano 600 Group all around, beautiful drilled levers with neoprene hoods on road champ drop bars (never taped, less than 10 miles on this roadbike), SR Stem Araya Rims Shimano hubs Kenda 27 X 1 and 1/8 clinchers $125 or best offer can deliver in MA, most any time plus will be attending as a customer at Monson 2/17!! Thank you for reading this!


   RE:FOR SALE:   Ross Super Grand Tour posted by Gralyn on 1/25/2002 at 12:32:01 PM
I have a Ross Grand Tour II
....but I have all the bikes I can handle at the moment.